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PASS,    SIEKRA    lS^i:VAT>A  MOUNTAIN; 


THREE  YEARS'  WAKDERINGS 


OF 


A  CONNECTICUT  YANKEE, 


IN 


South  America,  Africa,  Australia,  and  California, 


■WITH 


DESCRIPTIONS  OF  THE  SEVERAL  COOTRIES,  MANNERS,  CUSTOIIS 

AND  CONDITIONS  OF  THE  PEORLE,  INCLUDING 

lUNERS,  NATIVES,  ETC. 

ALSO,  A  DETAILED  ACCOUNT  OF 

A  VOYAGE  AROUND  THE  WORLD, 

ATTEXDED  WITH  UJTUSUAL  SUFFERING,   HARDSHIP,   PRITATION,   DISAPPOINTMENT, 

AND  DANGERS   ARISING  FROM   FEARFUL   STORMS  ;   THREATENED  WRECKS 

ON  ROCKY  COASTS,     AND   AMID   REEFS  ;     BY   FIRE, 

DECEPTION,   MUTINY,  ETC. 

ALSO,  VARIOUS  INCIDENTS  OF  LIEE  ON  SHIPBOARD. 


By   C.  M.  WELLES. 


Illustrated  with  Beautiful  Steel  Plate  EnsrarinRS. 


NEW    YORK: 

a:merican  subscription  publishing  house. 

1859. 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1S59,  by 

LUCIUS   STEBBINS, 

In  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  of  Connecticut. 


EliEC  T  EC  TYPED     AT     THE 
BOSTON     STEEEOXTPE     FOUSDET. 


PREFACE. 


Love  of  adventure,  ambitious  sclicmcs,  romantic 
enterprises,  and  visionary  projects  of  some  sort,  seem 
preeminently  the  characteristics  of  men  of  the  nine- 
teenth century  —  especially  of  young  men. 

Gold  has  become  the  absorbing  object,  and  thou- 
sands have  sacrificed  all  that  was  dearest  and  best  — 
made  shipwreck  of  all  that  was  purest  and  holiest 
—  in  their  attempts  to  realize  these  golden  dreams. 
Although,  in  a  majority  of  instances,  the  sequel  has 
proved  the  fallacy  of  these  ambitious  hopes  and 
designs,  they  still  are  slow  to  believe  the  testimony 
of  those  who  have  tried  them,  and  many  are  still 
rushing  to  remotest  shores  for  anticipated  gain. 

The  present  volume  is  but  one  of  the  "  beacon 
lights''^  on  this  broad  highway,  thronged  by  the 
over-confident  and  ;  if  it  persuade  any  of  these  of 

(3) 


4  PREFACE. 

the  superiority  of  well-directed  energy  and  ambition, 
if  it  serve  to  awaken  in  any  more  just  conceptions 
of  tlie  true  and  worthy  ends  of  life,  if  it  create 
more  enlarged  and  liberal  views  of  the  claims  of  the 
world  upon  individual  men,  the  efforts  of  the 
writer  will  not  have  been  in  vain  ;  these  chapters  of 
living,  actual  experience,  of  stern  reality,  will  not 
have  been  wrought  out  to  no  purpose  —  for  whoso 
is  uistrumental  in  adding  a  new  link  to  the  chain  of 
improvement,  does  something  in  the  great  and  good 
work  of  encircling  the  world  with  beauty  and  glad- 
ness ;  and  that  this  effort  may  do  some  small  service 
in  this  direction  is  the  humble  hope  of  the  author. 

C.  M.  Welles. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER   I. 

PAOB 

Adventiirous  Aspirations  of  Early  Youth.  —  Desire  to  see  the 
World.  —  Visit  to  New  York.  —  Ship  for  Australia  in  the 
Bark  Peytona.  —  Deception  in  prociiring  a  Ticket.  —  Dis- 
order among  OfEcers  and  Crew.  —  Impressions  of  Life  on 
Shipboard 9 

CHAPTER   II. 

Seasickness.  —  Mistaken  Ideas  of  a  Voyage.  —  Alarming  Indi- 
cations of  the  Ship  filling  with  "SVater.  —  The  Green  Moun- 
tain Boy.  —  Attempt  to  throw  the  Captain  overboard.  — 
Beauty  and  Majesty-  of  the  Ocean.  —  French  Celebration.      .     26 

CHAPTER   III. 

HI  Forebodings.  —  Treachery  of  the  Captain.  —  A  Sabbath- 
Day  Picture.  —  Cornish  Miners.  —  Code  of  Laws.  —  Gov- 
ernment of  the  Ship.  —  Disturbance,  and  its  Causes.  — 
Discipline,  &c 44 

CHAPTER   IV. 

Personification  of  Neptune.  —  Discovery  of  a  Barrel  of  Apples. 
—  Efforts  to  obtain  Water  from  a  distant   Ship.  —  Joy  on 

seeing  Land.  —  Appearance  of  the  Natives  on   the  South 
American  Coast.  —  Manner  of  Life.  —  ♦'  Catamarans."  .    66 

1  *  (5) 


6  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  V. 

Landing  at  Bahia.  —  Beauty  of  the  Tropical  Scenery.  —  Visit 
of  the  Custora-House  Officer.  —  Trouble  by  Reason  of  an 
undue  List  of  Passengers.  —  Description  of  the  City.  —  The 
Climate,  Soil,  and  Buildings  of  the  Place.  —  Visit  into  the 
Coimtry. — English  Chapel.  —  Marketplaces.      .        «        .85 

CHAPTER  VI. 

Romance  of  a  Walk  in  the  Tropical  Region.  —  Lidications  of 
former  Splendor.  —  Effort  in  proceeding  on  the  Voyage.  — 
Difficulties  in  leaving  Port.  —  General  History  of  Brazil.  — 
Death  from  Delirium  Tremens.  —  Narrow  Escape  from  Fire.  109 

CHAPTER  VII. 

Burial  at  Sea.  —  A  Lunar  Bow.  —  Table  Mountain.  —  Terrific 
Storm.  —  Landing  at  Cape  Town.  — Rambles  about  the  City. 
—  Imprisonment  of  the  Captain.  —  Visit  to  Seyola,  the 
Kaffir  Chief.  —  Prayer  Meeting  on  Ship 134 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

Byron's  Sea  Enthusiasm.  —  Make  the  Harbor  of  Port  Louis.  — 
Visit  the  Isle  of  France.  —  Delightful  Scenery.  —  Grave  of 
Harriet  Newell.  —  A  Malabar  Funeral.  —  Embark  in  the 
Brig  Nautilus.  —  Revolting  Fare.  —  Land  at  Melbourne.      .  160 

CHAPTER   IX. 

Stay  at  Canvas-town.  —  Journey  to  Ballerat.  —  Purchase  of  a 
Claim.  —  Location  of  Tent.  —  Housekeeping.  —  Experience 
in  the  !Mines  —  Disappointment  of  the  Wardy-allock  Expe- 
dition. —  Return  to  BaUerat 179 


CONTENTS.  7 

CHAPTER   X. 

Various  Adventures  in  and  about  Ballerat.  —  A  Magpie.  — 
Visit  to  Creswick  Creek.  —  Power  of  Kindness  over  Con- 
victs. —  The  Old  Woman.  —  "Walking  Leaves.  —  Take  the 
Sacusa  for  Callao.  —  Description  of  Australia.      .        .        ,  200 

CHAPTER   XI. 

Monotony  of  Sea  Life.  —  Change  of  Time  by  the  Omission  of 
a  Day.  —  Landing  at  South  America.  —  Disappointed  Hopes 
with  Reference  to  Gold.  —  False  Reports  purposely  circu- 
lated. —  Stay  at  Lima.  —  Earthquake  of  1746.  —  Roman 
Festival 223 

CHAPTER   XII. 

Pleasure  of  "Variety." — Proximity  of  Joy  and  Sorrow. — 
The  Yellow  Fever.  —  Voyage  to  Panama.  —  Arrival  at  San 
Francisco.  —  Scenes  at  the  Post  OflB.ce.  —  Situation  of  the 
City.  —  Impressions  of  Diflferent  Men.  .        .        .        .251 

CHAPTER   XIII. 

Life  at  Sacramento  City.  —  French  Creek.  —  Captain  Pike.  — 
"  Sly  Diggings."  —  Mud  and  Diamond  Springs.  —  School 
Houses.  —  Mammoth  Trees.  —  Snakes.  —  Moiintaia.  Scenery. 
—  Influence  of  Curiosity 273 

CHAPTER   XIV. 

Mormon  Refugees.  — Visit  to  Gold  Canon.  —  Varied  and  rough 
Experience  among  the  Mountains.  —  Return  alone  to  Sacra- 
mento. —  Night  in  the  Cave  of  the  Hermit.  —  Solitude.  — 
Its  Effects.  —  Lonely  Camping  in  the  Woods.  —  Digging  at 
French  Creek 296 


8  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER   XV. 

Besidence  at  San  Francisco.  —  "  Pop-Corn  Institution."  —  Life 
on  Steamer  Cortes.  —  Pearl  Islands.  —  Interview  with  Fa- 
ther Guernsey.  —  ^lissionary  Tour.  —  School  Teaching.  — 
Camp  Meeting.  —  Their  Influence  in  New  Settlements.  .  319 

CHAPTER   XYI. 

Voyage  Home.  —  Attempt  at  Suicide.  —  Natural  Features  of 
California.  —  Its  beautiful  Climate,  fertile  Soil,  and  delightful 
Scenery.  —  Reflections  upon  Men  and  Manners.  —  Superi- 
ority of  American  Character  and  Genius 343 


THREE  YEARS'  WANDERINGS. 


CHAPTER    I. 


ADVENTUROUS  ASPIRATIONS  OF  EARLY  YOUTH.  —  VISIT 
TO  NEW  YORK.  —  SHIP  FOR  AUSTRALIA  IN  THE  BARK 
PEYTON  A.  —  IMPRESSIONS   OF   LIFE   ON   SHIPBOARD. 

Was  there  ever  a  boy  who  did  not  expect  to 
travel  and  see  the  world  for  himself?  The 
early  and  prominent  characteristic  of  enthusi- 
astic boyhood  is  a  love  of  novelty  and  ad- 
venture ;  and  when  this  is  fed  by  the  glowing 
descriptions  and  stirring  details  of  interested 
travelers,  wonder  and  curiosity  cannot  be  re- 
strained, and  the  desire  to  see  and  hioiv  becomes 
an  almost  irresistible  impulse.  Ignorant  of 
the  "  enchantment "  that  "  distance  "  sometimes 
"  lends  to  view,"  other  lands  and  climes  seem 
like  the  "  Elysian  fields  "  of  classic  fame.  The 
broad  ocean,  with  its  rolling  tides  and  sweeping 
billows,   bearing  on   its  crested  bosom  proud 

(9) 


10  YOUTHFUL   ASPIRATIONS. 

m 

ships,  with  their  snowy  sails  ;  the  great  beauty 
of  natural  scenery  in  certain  localities  ;  odorous 
gales  from  island  shores ;  golden  treasures  im- 
bedded in  the  richly  freighted  earth, —  all  come 
home  like  so  many  notes  of  bewitching  melody, 
kindling  the  fervor  of  youthful  imagination, 
to  make  the  world  appear  a  perfect  El  Dorado 
of  hope. 

Wiser  people  may  descant  upon  tame  reali- 
ties that  dissipate  the  charm  of  actual  expe- 
rience, and  on  the  folly  of  aimlessly  pursuing 
the  phantom ;  but  the  reply  is  usually  like  that 
of  the  aspiring  youth  to  his  father,  offering 
like  counsel  under  different  circumstances — "I 
would  see  the  folly  for  myBelfr 

Such,  emphatically,  were  my  own  feelings. 
A  desire  to  see  the  world  had  haunted  me  for 
many  years,  by  night  and  by  day,  and  was 
continually  prompting  me  to  the  formation  of 
some  plan  by  which  my  fond  anticipations 
might  be  realized. 

Receding  months  and  years,  however,  seem 
destined  to  bear  nothing  to  me  but  the  un- 
satisfactory experience  of  deferred  hope ;  for, 
in  truth,  I  was  no  favorite  of  Fortune,  and  the 


VISIT   TO   NEW   YORK.  11 

^^  unconquerable  bar  of  Poverty  "  ever  mocked 
my  progress,  though  it  in  no  wise  tended  to 
diminish  the  ardor  of  my  adventurous  spirit. 
In  the  month  of  December,  1852,  while  out  of 
business,  I  visited  New  York,  still  on  the  alert 
for  every  indication  that  betokened  the  dawn- 
ing of  that  era,  the  attractive  features  of  which, 
I  confidently  hoped,  would  fill  the  records  of 
my  future  history  with  well-acquired  glory  for 
myself,  beside  imparting  somewhat  of  pleasure 
and  benefit  to  others. 

Little  did  I  think,  upon  my  first  landing  in 
the  city,  the  first  link  was  already  formed  in 
the  chain  of  circumstances  that  was  conspiring 
to  bring  about  the  long-desired  result. 

Repairing  to  the  docks  one  day,  my  mind, 
as  usual,  fiJled  with  visionary  schemes,  and  in 
my  heart  half  envying  those  already  upon 
the  surging  waves,  who  were  so  much  nearer 
the  goal  of  their  ambition  than  I,  my  atten- 
tion was  arrested  by  a  handbill  with  the  most 
inviting  caption :  "  Yacht  Excursion  to  Aus- 
tralia." 

The  Peytona,  it  appeared,  a  clipper  bark 
of  the  first   class,  six  hundred  tuns   burden, 


12  ALLURING   ADVERTISEMENT. 

would  leave  the  port,  on  the  approaching  first 
of  January,  for  Port  Philip  and  Melbourne. 

The  fair  representations  were  seized  with 
avidity,  and  I  longed  to  enter  at  once  a  career 
of  such  prospective  brilHancy. 

Flattering  inducements  were  held  out  to 
those  who  were  desirous  of  making  the  voy- 
age, as  the  notice  will  show. 

"  She  will  be  fitted  up  in  a  style  as  elegant  as 

unique,  and  fresh  provisions  ivill  be  furnished  for 

Tiearly  half  the  voyage.     It  is  confidently  expected 

she  will  land  her  passengers  at   Melbourne  on  the 

sixtieth  day  from  Neiv    York,  including  stoppages. 

No  such  opportunity  as  this  has  ever  been  offered 

to  gentlemen   desirous   of  visiting   that   enchanting 

region.     It  is  not  fair  to  compare  this  ship  ivith  the 

ordinary  class  of  vessels  hitherto  fitted  out,  and  now 

advertised  for  Australia,  as   the  Peytona  is  above 

competition  from  any  quarter.     She    will   take   an 

experienced   surgeon;    and  all    the   attention  of  a 

first-class  hotel  ivill  be  granted  in  the  most  liberal 

manner. 

Proprietor^  Captain  A.  Pelletier, 

98   Wall  Street.''. 


ENTHUSIASTIC    ANTICIPATIONS.  13 

A  rare  opportunity  indeed  !  was  my  mental 
soliloquy.  Who  knows  but  the  favorable  time 
has  come  for  me  ?  I  desire  to  go ;  and  this, 
perhaps,  may  be  the  key  that  will  throw  wide 
the  hitherto  barred  gates  of  the  world  for  my 
entrance.  I  ivill  enter  "  a  first  class  hotel,"  too. 
Cleopatra's  barge  would  sink  into  insignifi- 
cance beside  our  floating  palace,  and  all  her 
et  ceteras  be  as  nothing  in  comparison  with  the 
luxurious  surroundings  that  would  be  ours  in 
the  two  months'  journeying  to  the  "  enchanted 
regions."  A  second  thought,  however,  served 
to  weaken  the  foundation  on  which  my  airy 
castle  had  been  so  suddenly  reared;  for  the 
sober  conviction  forced  itself  upon  my  mind, 
that  a  penniless,  friendless  youth,  like  myself, 
was  in  no  promising  condition  for  such  an 
enterprise. 

Notwithstanding  this,  I  was  firm  in  my  de- 
termination to  go,  if  possible,  and  if  difficulties 
would  obstruct  the  open  path,  they  should  but 
incite  to  greater  action,  and  perchance  they 
might  vanish,  in  the  beginning,  before  the 
energy  of  a  resolute  will. 

I  at  once  conceived  the  importance  of  pre- 

2 


l-i  RETURN   HOME. 

liminary  measures,  and  to  this  end  repaired  to 
the  office  of  the  proprietor,  where  I  had  an 
mterview,  the  result  of  which  was,  the  promise 
of  a  free  passage  to  Australia,  provided  I  could 
insure  six  passengers  for  the  Peytona,  beside 
myself 

Now,  I  verily  thought,  the  "  cloud "  was 
pierced,  and  its  ''silver  lining''  fully  displayed, 
so  bright  and  strong  were  my  expectations  of 
promised  pleasure.  Stories  of  the  rich  profu- 
sion of  shining  ore  in  the  land  whither  we 
were  bound,  were  already  in  circulation,  and  I 
doubted  not  it  would  be  an  easy  matter  to  en- 
list the  requisite  number  for  the  accomplish- 
ment of  my  purpose  ;  being  aware  that  men 
in  general  consider  no  prospect  more  alluring 
than  the  easy  acquisition  of  golden  dust. 

My  mind,  of  course,  naturally  reverted  to 
my  Connecticut  associates  as  the  surest  source 
from  w^hence  I  could  draw  the  little  company ; 
and,  intent  upon  the  feasibility  of  the  project, 
I  hastened  home,  and  with  earnestness  becom- 
ing a  good  cause,  endeavored  to  infuse  into 
the  spirit  of  others  some  measure  of  that 
enthusiasm  which  animated  my  own. 


COMPANIONS   FOUND.  15 

I  found  my  coveted  reward  in  a  sufficient 
number  of  pledges  to  enable  me  to  look  for- 
ward with  confidence  to  the  fulfilment  of  my 
hopes. 

It  is  not  necessary  for  me  to  recount  the 
incidents ;  the  feelings  that  influenced,  and 
the  motives  that  actuated,  our  little  band  in 
the  speedy  adoption  of  the  plan.  Nor  is  it 
essential  that  I  specify  the  reason  which  in- 
duced me  to  apply  nearly  all  my  own  scanty 
funds  for  the  purchase  of  a  ticket  for  my 
young  fellow-townsman  and  friend,  —  John 
Harman,  —  one  whom  I  regarded  as  even 
more  unfortunate  than  myself 

Beside  us  were  Harry  Yates,  Jim  Darrow, 
Buckley,  Smith,  and  Brown  ;  seven  "  poor  but 
virtuous"  men,  ill-used  by  fortune,  and  little 
careful  whither  fate  should  lead  them. 

For  myself,  the  world  opened  before  me  a 
broad  and  inviting  field  of  action,  and  my  feet 
w^ere  burning  to  tread  the  farther  shore  of  the 
vast  ocean. 

It  took  but  a  short  sjDace  of  time  to  com- 
plete our  arrangements  ;  and  these  at  an 
end,  we  bade  adieu  to  the  familiar  scenes  of 


16  DELAY    OF    SAILING. 

Hartford,  and  if  we  felt  an  emotion  of  regret  at 
the  last  look  of  her  receding  spires,  they  were 
mostly  stilled  by  the  powerful  voice  of  Hope, 
which  beckoned  us  away.  On  the  25th  of 
January  of  the  new  year,  we  all  met  on  board 
the  Peytona,  lying  at  the  dock,  foot  of  Wall 
Street ;  it  having  lingered  thus  far  beyond  its 
ajDpointed  day  of  sailing. 

We  selected  our  berths ;  placed  our  names 
respectively  on  each  ;  arranged  our  chests  in 
front  as  seats,  and  were  ready,  as  we  bravely 
thought,  for  any  and  all  events. 

Still  day  succeeded  day,  without  any  signs 
of  departure,  until  the  29  th,  when  orders  were 
issued  for  passengers  to  pay  their  fare  and 
secure  tickets.  I  collected  my  friends  in  the 
office  of  the  captain,  introduced  them  as  such, 
and  saw  them  produce  the  requisite  material 
for  the  purchase  of  a  passport  through. 

I  felt  somewhat  sensitive  in  seemins:  to  have 
paid  my  passage,  by  securing  theirs,  and  conse- 
quently remained  silent  till  they  left,  when  I 
asked  the  captain  for  my  ticket,  and  was  sur- 
prised to  meet  with  a  peremptory  refusal.  To 
this   I   remonstrated,   but   to   no   purpose.     I 


SCANTY    RESOURCES.  17 

could  do  nothing.  I  saw  his  advantage,  and 
concluded  there  was  no  alternative  for  me  but 
to  give  the  contents  of  my  slender  purse  into 
the  hands  of  the  miserable  deceiver.  I  did  so, 
and  from  the  meager  pittance  remaining,  I 
bought  three  cheap  shirts,  and  a  scanty  steam- 
boat blanket  for  my  friend  John,  and  the  same 
for  myself  This  done,  my  earthly  possessions 
consisted  of  a  few  clothes,  a  watch,  and  two 
dollars  and  a  half  in  gold  wherewith  to  make 
the  voyage  to  Australia. 

Memory  recalled  the  instance  of  a  traveler 
who  equipped  himself  satisfactorily  for  a  voy- 
age around  the  world  with  only  a  tin  cup. 
Though  I  professed  to  believe,  more  or  less 
strongly,  in  the  doctrine  that  "  man  wants  but 
little  here  below,"  I  must  confess  to  a  decided 
reluctance  in  narrowing  down  the  circle  of  my 
desires  to  actual  necessities  in  my  own  case ; 
much  less  to  bring  myself  to  the  meritorious 
standard  of  my  illustrious  precedent. 

Disappointment  indeed  lingered  upon  the 
very  threshold  of  my  course  ;  but  the  decree 
had  gone  forth,  and  I  chose  not  to  revoke  it. 

The  impression  was  unavoidable  that  some- 
2* 


18  DEPARTURE   OF   THE   SHIP. 

thing  was  wrong.  The  rumor  was  in  circula- 
tion that  some  of  the  New  York  passengers 
had  placed  an  injunction  upon  the  vessel,  and 
at  this  juncture  of  affairs,  had  money  been 
plenty,  or  even  employment  in  the  city,  my 
delegation  from  the  Nutmeg  State  might  have 
been  strongly  tempted  to  abandon  the  voyage. 
We  wandered  about,  meeting  daily  to  consider 
matters ;  sometimes  on  board  the  Peytona, 
sometimes  on  the  Battery,  and  again  at  Pelle- 
tier's  office.  A  constant  watch  was  maintained, 
as  something  in  the  conduct  of  the  captain  in- 
timated there  might  be  an  object  to  accom- 
plish in  sliding  off  without  us. 

On  the  9th  of  February,  however,  we  had 
the  satisfaction  of  seeing  the  vessel  start  from 
her  quiet  moorings ;  and  as  this  day  marks  the 
beginning  of  the  records  of  this  eventful  period 
of  my  history,  I  shall  transcribe  incidents  as 
they  were  penned  at  the  time  in  the  order  of 
their  dates. 

We  are  now  at  sea ;  and  such  a  prospect ! 
no  better  than  a  floating  bedlam,  notwithstand- 
ing all  the  fair  promises  of  order  and  comfort. 
This  afternoon  a  steam  tug  made  fast  to  us, 


DESCRIPTION    OF   THE  CAPTAIN.  19 

and  Pelletier,  appearing  among  the  men,  or- 
dered some  of  them  to  weigh  anchor,  no  one, 
apparently,  being  appointed  for  the  purpose. 
At  the  same  time  a  proclamation  was  issued 
that  the  passage  tickets  were  to  be  taken,  and 
all  those  not  determined  to  go  must  return. 

The  official  command  of  the  ship,  it  seems, 
is  to  be  assumed  by  Jackson,  whom  Pelletier 
has  introduced  to  the  ship's  company  as  cap- 
tain—  a  tall,  broad-shouldered,  hard-featured, 
red-faced,  grizzly-haired,  brandy-looking  old 
fellow,  without  a  single  redeeming  quality  in 
his  unprepossessing  exterior. 

All  assembled  on  deck  to  gaze  at  the  pleas- 
ant scenery  about  the  Bay,  being  somewhat 
elastic  in  spirits,  in  spite  of  depressing  influ- 
ences, and  prepared  to  appreciate  the  motion 
of  the  bark  after  so  long  a  time  of  inexplicar 
ble  detention.  The  city  and  the  shipping 
have  been  saluted  with  innumerable  disor- 
derly cheers,  for  the  idea  of  doing  things 
^'  decently  and  in  order,"  in  this  Babel-like 
confusion,  is  out  of  the   question. 

We  have  a  strong  reenforcement  of  passen- 
gers from  the  steamer  while  passing  down  the 


20  DEFICIENCY    IN   THE    SHIP's    COMPANY. 

Bay,  making  comfort  a  word  of  still  more 
doubtful  meaning  than  before. 

The  tug  has  cast  off,  and  a  few  men,  with 
their  hearts  failing  them  at  the  eleventh  hour, 
have  returned  with  her. 

Captain  Jackson,  duly  installed  in  authority, 
stepped  forward  on  the  deck,  singing  out  at 
random,  ^^  Forward,  there  !  H'ist  away  that 
jib  ! "     '•  Loose  that  fore-topsail,  will  ye  ? " 

As  no  one  responded  to  the  call,  it  caused  a 
look  of  astonishment,  "a  moment's  hesitation, 
and  then  in  a  voice  that  reminded  me  of  a 
tornado,  came  the  exclamation,  "  Where  the  — 
is  my  crew  ?  " 

A  ridiculous  query !  it  seemed  at  the  mo- 
ment, though,  as  it  proved,  not  altogether  un- 
seasonable; for,  upon  inquiry,  w^e  find  the 
officers,  beside  the  captain,  to  be  Payson,  the 
first  mate,  a  stalwart  down-easter,  and  Grant, 
the  second  mate.  Of  course  we  are  minus  a 
foremast  hand.  A  momentary  lull  in  the  hub- 
bub and  turmoil  of  multitudmous  voices  and 
movements  followed  the  outbreak,  but  was 
suddenly  disturbed  by  the  loud  ejaculation, 
"  I'm  one,"  from  a  hard-looking  young  fellow, 


A    CREW    SELECTED.  21 

who  seemed  almost  the  personification  of  reck- 
lessness. "  Come,  boys/'  he  added,  looking, 
apparently,  to  some  of  his  comrades,  and  in  a 
few  moments  a  crew  was  enrolled  from  the  list 
of  passengers,  to  whom  usual  wages  were  prom- 
ised. They  immediately  turned  to,  the  orders 
were  repeated,  and  in  a  little  time  sail  was 
made  upon  the  bark,  and  she  was  lajdng  her 
course. 

Confusion  is  not  confined  to  the  ship's  crew. 
Unex23ected  ]3crplexity  arises  also  from  other 
sources.  As  for  us  Connecticut  men,  however, 
we  are  snugly  ensconced  in  our  recess,  dimly 
lighted  with  a  "  bidl's  eye  "  in  the  deck,  and  to 
be  sure  well-strown  with  trunks  and  chests. 

Our  number  is  diminished  by  one,  he  having 
received  a  letter  from  his  wife  almost  at  the 
last  moment,  full  of  pathetic  appeal,  which  in- 
fluenced him  to  relinquish  his  golden  hopes, 
and  return,  no  doubt  thinking,  with  the  poet, 
"Be  it  ever  so  humble,  there's  no  place  like 
home." 

Into  his  place,  and  one  other  bunk  of  our 
compartment,  we  have  admitted  a  very  respec- 
table  Englishman   and   lady  —  Mr.   and   Mrs. 


22  A    GERMAN   NOBLE. 

Hope  ;  rather  close  packing  for  delicate,  fem- 
inine natures,  but  under  the  circumstances  she 
may  consider  it  good  fortune. 

The  Peytona  has  accommodations  for  only 
one  hundred  and  fifty  passengers,  and  we 
have,  at  least,  two  hundred ;  making  fifty, 
who,  in  the  nature  of  things,  can  have  little 
opportunity  to  enjoy  the  benefit  of  "  tired 
nature's  sweet  restorer,"  provided  Morpheus 
should  deign  to  visit  such  scenes  of  confusion 
at  all.  Of  course  Pelletier,  in  his  grasping 
meanness,  has  sold  the  places  twice  over. 

Among  the  last  arrivals  are  some  fine-appear- 
ing French  people,  who  have  reposed  a  mis- 
placed confidence  in  their  smart  compatriot  of 
Wall  Street  We  have  also  a  German  lord,  — 
no  less  than  the  high-born  "Prince  Paul,  of 
Wirtemberg,"  —  the  well-known  naturalist,  — 
a  portly  and  pompous  personage,  with  a  truly 
aristocratic  gait,  apparently  not  less  than  sev- 
enty years  of  age.  The  house  on  the  qiiarter 
deck,  it  seems,  he  had  engaged  exclusively  for 
himself,  suite,  and  baggage,  and  had  paid  for 
the  same  in  advance. 

His  efiects  were  sent   on  board,   and  they 


STATE-PRISON    FARE.  23 

were  thrown  on  deck  by  an  indifferent  person, 
where  they  remain  hopelessly  scattered,  with 
a  vast  quantity  in  like  predicament. 

As  for  his  prepaid  quarters,  he  finds  en- 
camped therein  a  crew  of  regardless  and 
unterrified  New  Yorkers,  who  laugh  him,  his 
princeship,  his  pre-payments,  and  his  peremp- 
tory commands,  to  scorn.  One  little  berth 
only,  in  the  cabin,  is  allowed  him ;  and  as  for 
his  suite,  nobody  knows  where  they  are. 

We  have  had  supper,  —  state-prison  fare,  — 
at  least  I  can  think  of  no  hotel,  (to  quote  our 
advertising  promises,)  except  the  public  house 
at  Sing-Sing,  where  "  every  attention  "  certainly 
means  no  more  than  it  does  here  ;  a  few  pieces 
of  boiled  beef,  served  in  tin  pans,  baker's 
bread,  a  tub  of  butter,  and  a  barrel  of  apples. 
The  grateful  smell  of  the  beef,  while  cooking, 
was  rather  cheering  to  our  olfactories,  and  we 
made  ready,  though  soon  convinced  that  con- 
ventional readiness  was  entirely  superfluous. 

No  table  invited  us  to  a  quiet  meal.  Half  a 
dozen  men  secured  a  beef  pan,  each  for  him- 
self proceeding  to  operations  with  his  jack- 
knife. 


24  PLEAS.VNTRY. 

I  made  sure  of  my  allowance  by  taking  a 
slice  from  a  loaf,  seasoning  it  at  the  butter 
tub,  pocketing  an  apple,  seizing  a  modicum 
of  beef,  and  retired  to  a  corner. 

"All  the  attention  of  a  first-class  hotel, 
boys  I "  shouted  Yates,  as  I  was  escaping 
from  the  crowd.  A  loud  laugh  showed  the 
appreciation  of  the  hit  at  the  false  pledges  of 
the  owner. 

It  is  quite  late  as  I  write,  and  the  vessel  is 
not  still  yet.  The  bunks  are  full,  and  the 
remainder  of  the  unhappy  passengers  are  laid 
out  on  the  table,  or  promiscuously  strewed 
about  among  the  baggage. 

We  are  a  miserably  cheated  company ;  so 
much  is  evident  already.  I  believe  we  present 
a  more  perfect  spectacle  of  dire  discomfort 
and  confusion  than  was  ever  before  witnessed, 
especially  in  such  narrow  limits.  Some  excep- 
tions, however,  in  a  group  of  men ;  English 
factory  operatives,  apparently,  who  seem  de- 
termined to  bring  harmony  into  confusion,  if 
they  can  not  educe  itfrom  it. 

They  have  traveled  before,  and  have  cun- 
ningly selected   the  best-lighted   part  of  the 


]\a'SICAL   PERFORM-iXCES.  25 

"saloon/'  as  we  call  the  steerage,  and  there, 
seated  together,  they  have  remained  during  all 
the  unutterable  disturbance  —  the  swearing, 
quarreling,  searching  for  sleeping  places  and 
baggage,  lamentations  and  reproaches ;  imper- 
turbably  scraping  and  blowing  upon  two  fid- 
dles, a  clarionet,  accordeon,  and  trombone,  as 
peaceably  as  if  they  were  on  Parnassus,  in- 
stead of  a  place  well-nigh  resembling  Pande- 
monium. Their  music  possesses  but  few 
charais,  except  for  their  own  enraptured 
selves,  however. 

No  better  opportunity,  I  imagine,  to  test 
character,  in  all  its  points,  than  life  on  ship- 
board. Every  variety  of  disposition  is  here 
fully  manifest ;  every  conceivable  phase  of 
human  nature  openly  developed  ;  and  whoever 
comes  out  of  the  scathing  ordeal,  "  possessing 
the  soul"  in  patience  and  integrity,  may  be 
set  down  as  perfect  heroes  end  heroines,  fully 
prepared  to  act  well  their  part  in  the  great 
drama  of  life,  whatever  it  may  be,  or  wher- 
ever. 


CHAPTER   II. 

SEASICKNESS.  —  MISTAKEN    IDEAS      OF     A    YOTAGE.  

ALARMING   INDICATIONS  OF  THE   SHIP  FILLING. DIS- 
ORDER   AND    MISMANAGEMENT    AMONG    THE    CREW. 

THE   FRENCH    CELEBRATION. 

10th.  —  Great  abundance  of  haggard  faces 
this  morning,  indicating  nnrefreshing  sleep, 
imperfect  ablutions,  and,  if  I  mistake  not,  sin- 
cere and  early  repentance  of  this  most  unprom- 
ising adventure.  A  majority  of  the  ship's  com- 
pany, including  even  Payson,  the  mate,  have 
been  seasick.  I  am  constitutionally  free  from 
this  tendency,  consequently  have  had  an  oppor- 
tunity to  show  forth  practical  sympathy  in 
efforts  to  promote  the  comfort  of  the  poor  crea- 
tures lying  about  on  deck  in  almost  deadly 
misery,  groaning  most  pitifully,  and  refunding 
their  provisions. 

The  sea  is  rough,  and  the  day  has  been 
showery ;  but  the  close  air  of  the  steerage  is 
unendurable,  and  they  must  needs  take  the 

(26) 


HOMESICKXESS.  27 

pelting  of  the  rain,  and  the  "  chilly  nor'-wester/' 
^vith  the  slender  and  only  consolation  that 
recovery  will  make  better. 

Many  and  sorrowful  are  the  wishes  I  have 
heard  expressed  from  one  and  another,  that 
they  had  not  left  home  and  home  comforts, 
good  situations,  good  business,  kind  friends,  to 
suffer  so  much,  mereh'  for  the  chance  of  gain, 
by  toiling  for  gold  in  a  foreign  land.  My 
attempts  to  console  them  are  seconded  by  one 
of  the  passengers,  a  tough  old  sea  captain,  who 
is  constantly  repeating  the  animating  words, 
''  Cheer  up,  my  lads  •  never  let  your  hearts  fail 

you  I " 

There  is,  after  all,  considerable  practical 
sense  in  the  story  of  a  father  who  had  a  son 
strongly  desirous  of  a  seafaring  life,  and  his 
ingenious  method  of  cooling  his  aspirations. 
He  gave  him  a  powerful  emetic,  shut  him  up 
in  a  box,  intrusted  it  to  a  man,  with  instruc- 
tions to  jolt  him  about  the  streets  for  an  hour 
or  two.  It  is  unnecessary  to  state  the  subject 
was  never  broached  again. 

People  contemplating  a  sea  voyage  usually 
think  so  much  more  of  the  dans-ers  to  be  en- 

o 


28  WANT    OF   FORETHOUGHT. 

countered  than  of  daily  privations  and  disa- 
greeables, that  they  neglect  to  provide  many 
little  articles  indispensable  to  comfort  and  con- 
venience on  a  long  voyage. 

This  is  eminently  the  case  with  our  com- 
pany. Very  few  are  provided  with  more  than 
an  outfit  for  a  short  land  journey. 

They  seemed  to  forget  they  could  not  prac- 
tice shopping  every  morning,  or  perhaps  ima- 
gined the  ship  would  afford  an  inexhaustible 
supply. 

To  travel  commodiously  and  pleasantly  at 
sea  requires  more  philosophy  than  to  live  on 
land ;  more  apparatus  and  foresight  than  jour- 
neying on  Terra  Firma. 

One  or  two  speculative  fellows,  with  an  eye 
intent  upon  their  own  interest,  having  some 
understanding  of  the  matter,  have  laid  in  gen- 
erous supplies  of  certain  miscellaneous  com- 
modities, such  as  soda-water,  crackers,  choc- 
olate, confectionery,  cigars,  woolen  hose,  &c., 
which  they  readily  dispose  of  at  treble  their 
cost. 

11th.  —  Yates,  who  has  been  to  California, 


SMOUGING.  29 

has  suggested  a  division  of  the  steerage  com- 
pany into  three  messes.  The  necessity  of  such 
an  organization  is  too  evident  to  allow  objec- 
tion, and  they  are  at  once  enrolled,  numbered 
accordingly,  and  to  each  a  carver  is  voted,  for 
the  purpose  of  serving  out  the  food  in  an  equa- 
ble manner  —  a  most  welcome  change. 

"Smouging,"  a  contemptible  name  for  con- 
temptible stealing,  has  been  the  order  of  the 
day. 

Yates  apprised  us  in  season  of  the  universal 
imposition  practiced  upon  ocean  passengers  by 
giving  them  tolerably  good  fare  at  first,  and 
wretched  afterguards.  Judging,  from  our  first 
day's  experience,  we  could  not  presume  upon 
imperial  luxuries  to  come,  and  considering  the 
necessities  of  the  case,  the  facts  stated  in  Har- 
ry's exposition,  additional  matters  well  known 
to  us,  such  as  the  mysterious  disappearance  of 
the  half-emptied  butter  tub  at  the  very  first 
meal,  and  like  things,  we  deliberately  agreed 
to  "  smouge." 

'-  Good  !  "  said  Harry ;    ^^  there's  a  barrel  of 
first-rate  bread  now,  and  we  shall  have  misera- 
ble stuff  before  two  days  are  over.     Let's  fill 
3* 


30  SABBATH    ON    SHIPBOARD. 

our  bags  with  tliat!"  No  sooner  said  thaji 
done.  Half  a  bushel  was  secured  in  a  dirty 
clothes  bag,  pillow-cases  served  for  the  rest, 
and  the  spoils  were  hung  at  the  head  of  our 
bunks. 

An  arrangement  entered  into  from  sheer 
necessity,  with  an  eye  to  the  future,  not  ours 
only,  but  our  companions  in  misery. 

12th.  —  No  appropriate  sights  or  sounds 
usher  in  the  peaceful  hours  of  the  sacred  Sab- 
bath. No  service,  neither  place,  ]Dreacher,  nor 
congregation ;  and,  indeed,  almost  any  thing 
might  be  nurtured  to  worship  as  easily  as  this 
sick,  unhappy,  and  restless  crowd. 

General  low  spirits  have  predisposed  the 
passengers  to  fright.  A  few  angry-looking 
clouds  this  morning  gave  rise  to  all  sorts  of 
prophecies  of  coming  storms,  and  many  doleful 
stories  of  shipwreck  and  peril. 

A  squall  struck  us  suddenly,  and  threw  us 
nearly  on  our  beam-ends,  and  for  a  moment  we 
thought  to  realize  them.  The  alarm  was  in- 
stantaneous and  great,  for  the  ignorant  major- 
ity thought  their  last  hour  had  surely  come. 


FRVEFUL    APPEEHENSIONS.  31 

Some  one,  more  experienced,  cried  out  jeer- 
ingly,  "  Put  a  handspike  in  the  lee  scuppers 
and  right  her,"  which  only  served  to  increase 
the  discomfiture  of  those  untutored  in  nautical 
expressions  and  affairs. 

Suddenly  the  cry  arose,  that  the  ship  was 
filling,  and  must  inevitably  sink.  The  captain 
himself  seemed  to  believe  it,  and  uttered  vari- 
ous exclamations  of  fright,  which  alarmed  all, 
especially  the  women.  An  examination  was 
immediately  held,  w^hich  showed  five  feet  of 
w^ater  in  the  hold,  beside  several  inches  on  the 
cabin  floor,  surging  about,  wetting  every  thing 
and  every  body. 

Nobod}^  knew  from  whence  it  came,  the  ship 
having  been  considered  uncommonly  stanch 
and  tight;  but  the  discovery  was  at  length 
made,  that  the  ventilators  which  opened  under 
the  bulwarks,  just  above  the  deck,  had  been 
open  since  leaving  port,  and  the  heavy  sea, 
beating  against  the  sides  of  the  ship,  had  forced 
the  water  throug:h  them.  The  ventilators  are 
now  closed,  and  strong  bands  of  passengers  are 
relieving  each  other  at  the  pumps.  All  our 
"  smouged  "  biscuit  are  ruined.     They  must  go 


32  A    HILWY    GALE. 

overboard  to-morrow.     Some  truth  in  the  prov- 
erb, "  Stolen  gear  never  prospers." 

14th.  —  Sunday  night  the  pumps  were  in 
operation  the  whole  time,  freeing  the  ship  by 
morning,  with  no  more  harm  done  than  the 
thorough  drenching  of  baggage  and  stores, 
many  of  which  seem  to  have  been  resolved 
into  their  original  elements. 

Yesterday  the  wind  increased  to  a  gale,  the 
sea  rose  until  it  constantly  swept  us  fore  and 
aft,  and  poured  a  steady  stream  down  our  mis- 
erable hatchway.  The  water  rose  inch  by  inch 
about  our  feet  in  the  cabin,  which  caused  an- 
other fright,  as  many  were  not  sure  but  it 
rushed  in  at  some  leak.  Coverings  were  taken 
from  the  bunks  and  injected  into  the  wide 
space  between  the  hatchway,  and  the  ill-fitted 
"umbrella,"  or  outer  cover;  but  one  after  an- 
other they  washed  through  and  were  carried 
out  to  sea,  till  every  one  in  the  saloon  was 
gone.  During  the  excitement,  the  captain  ap- 
peared, lantern  in  hand,  pretending  to  search 
for  the  source  of  the  water  in  the  cabin. 

He  insisted  upon  all  believing  it  came  from 


o  o 


THE   CREEN    MOUNTAIN    BOY.  66 

the  hold.  His  superior  wisdom  and  obstinacy, 
however,  are  mainly  attributable  to  the  influ- 
ence of  the  intoxicating  draught,  which  unfits 
him  to  navigate  even  himself  correctly,  much 
less  a  bark  like  this,  freighted  with  human 
souls. 

During  the  continuance  of  the  gale,  Fowler, 
a  Green  Mountain  Boy,  —  a  profane,  careless 
fellow, — was  exceedingly  terrified  by  the  unac- 
customed sights  and  sounds  of  the  storm,  and 
threw  himself  upon  his  knees,  crying  vehe- 
mently for  mercy,  and  that  he  might  be  re- 
stored safely  to  his  native  land. 

The  sailors,  indignant  at  his  unseasonable 
devotions,  and  still  more  at  his  being  in  their 
way,  roughly  pushed  him  aside ;  but  the  poor 
fellow  withdrew  into  another  place,  to  continue 
his  supplications  unmolested. 

How  instinctively  the  heart  of  man  knows 
the  true  and  only  source  of  help !  —  knows,  yet 
wilfully  neglects  it. 

The  over-crowded  vessel  had  not  afforded 
room  for  all  the  baggage,  nor  all  the  heavy 
freight ;  consequently  a  large  number  of  trunks 
and  packages  had  been  lashed  to  the  quarter- 


34  THE  captain's  obstinacy. 

deck.  Tliis  began  to  break  loose,  and  Payson, 
the  mate,  ordered  them  to  be  thrown  over- 
board. 

Some  of  the  passengers  reluctantly  com- 
menced the  work  of  destruction ;  but  the  cap- 
tain soon  countermanding  the  order  of  his  first 
officer,  they  desisted. 

Our  bark  was  in  violent  motion,  and  freight, 
casks,  baggage,  and  every  thing  else  were  pre- 
cipitated from  side  to  side  with  fearful  rapidity, 
to  the  imminent  peril  of  every  life  and  limb  on 
deck. 

Absolutely  it  must  go,  order  or  no  order,  or 
the  ship  could  not  be  worked ;  and  again  they 
resorted  to  the  necessary  expedient,  only  to 
meet  with  a  second  rebuff  from  the  captain, 
wdio  stood  with  "  quarter-axe  "  in  hand,  threat- 
ening to  cut  down  the  man  who  persisted  in 
such  a  course. 

At  this,  half  a  dozen  seamen  sprang  at  him, 
and  had  he  not  been  too  much  intoxicated,  a 
serious  aflrav  mig;ht  have  followed.  As  it  was, 
it  proved  but  a  brief  struggle  before  he  w^as 
disarmed,  overpowered,  and  secured.  The  men 
in  their  rage  threw  him  over  the  sides  of  the 


o  r 


HARMLESS    PISTOLS.  o5 

sliip,  and  were  on  the  point  of  giving  him  a 
cold  bath,  when  some  one,  expostulating,  caused 
him  to  be  drawn  in,  when  they  thrust  him  into 
his  state  room,  and  turned  the  lock. 

Soon  after,  while  pacing  up  and  down,  and 
looking  at  his  window,  I  was  horrified  to  see 
his  infuriated  visag-e  directly  before  me,  and 
his  pistol  aimed  at  my  head.  "  CHck ! "  went 
the  lock,  and  for  an  instant  I  thought  myself  a 
dead  man.  Fortunately  the  weapon  missed 
fire ;  I  sj)eedily  sought  safer  quarters,  at  the 
same  time  shouting  to  one  of  the  crew,  "Jim, 
he's  got  his  pistols;  he's  got  his  pistols,  and  has 
.just  fired  at  me."  "Never  mind,"  rejoined  he, 
coollj^,  "  we  drew  the  charges  before  we  let  him 
have  them." 

In  a  few  hours  he  was  liberated,  and  came 
out  determined  upon  revenging  such  treat- 
ment ;  but  the  passengers  assuring  him  all 
would  be  right  in  the  morning,  he  retired,  and 
this  morning  at  daybreak  appeared,  apparently 
calm. 

There  has  been  no  little  excitement  and  dis- 
satisfaction among  passengers  from  the  very 
moment  of  departure.     It  has  become  a  fact 


36  BAD    MANAGE^IENT. 

well  known  among  us,  that  two  captains,  suc- 
cessively engaged  by  Pelletier  to  command 
the  Peytona,  discovered  upon  inspecting  the 
ship's  papers,  so  much  evidence  of  informality, 
and  such  an  illegally  large  number  of  passen- 
gers, that  they  refused  to  command  her. 

Our  provisions  are  scanty,  and  barbarously 
ill-served,  beside  being  crowded  almost  beyond 
endurance.  The  ship's  management  hp^s  been 
so  utterly  loose  and  reckless,  that  even  we, 
inexperienced  landsmen,  can  not  fail  to  see  it. 

A  thrill  of  horror  ran  through  us  all,  in  addi- 
tion to  the  tumultuous  yet  indefinable  appre- 
hensions that  stirred  every  bosom  upon  the 
discovery  that  the  ship  and  all  it  contains  was 
in  the  charge  of  a  miserable  inebriate. 

Suspicions  are  growing  upon  the  mind  of 
Buckley  and  Smith,  the  eldest  of  our  special 
group,  as  well  as  myself,  that  there  is  a  danger- 
ous gang  of  men  on  board,  from  whom  some- 
thing is  to  be  feared. 

Among  these  are  "  Big  George,"  the  first  who 
volunteered  as  seaman,  those  who  responded  so 
promptly  to  his  invitation,  and  several  others, 
including  Maginnis,  the  carver  of  the  second 


THE    STOWAWAYS.  37 

mess.  The  latter,  we  are  confident,  from  every 
indication,  has  already  had  experience  of  the 
"  Convict's  Home." 

All  these  are  included  in  the  ^  Sioivaivays " 
—  those  who  hid  themselves  on  board  till 
tickets  were  collected,  and  the  vessel  under 
way. 

Having  thus  secured  free  passages,  they 
emerged  from  the  coal-hole,  or  peak,  an  insuf- 
ferable little  den  under  the  forecastle,  and 
other  secret  places,  mingling  boldly  and  un- 
questioned with  the  rest  of  the  passengers.  It 
is  said  they  came  from  Brooklj^n,  and  have 
contrived  this  means  of  seeing  the  world  at  the 
expense  of  the  ship,  ready  for  the  performance 
of  any  thing,  however  treacherous  or  cruel, 
which  they  may  consider  for  their  profit  or 
pleasure.  Payson,  the  mate,  is  evidently 
leagued  with  them. 

Circumstances  are  not  wanting  to  show  that 
the  attack  upon  the  captain  was  designed  for 
the  mate's  promotion ;  that  his  thorough-going 
partisans,  having  their  own  way,  would  have 
dropped  him  into  the  sea,  in  order  that  their 
chief  might  assume  the  command.    What  plans 

4 


38  DELINQUENCY. 

he  and  they  may  have^  further  than  this,  we 
can  only  conjecture. 

It  has  become  a  matter  of  consultation  with 
the  passengers,  whether  they  shall  not  insist 
upon  making  some  port  immediately,  some 
suggesting  Bermuda,  and  others  a  return  to 
New  York ;  for  the  prospect  of  performing  a 
voyage  of  twelve  thousand  miles  in  safety, 
under  the  control  of  a  tipsy  commander,  seems 
dubious.  But  there  are  many  Avho  prefer  to 
go  forward,  and  a  change  of  destination  could 
hardly  be  effected,  having  no  leader  or  concert 
of  action. 

17th.  —  Yesterday  the  mate  convoked  the 
•two  cooks  and  stewards  from  the  cabin  and 
steerage,  and  recapitulated  to  them  the  numer- 
ous complaints  against  them  for  fdth,  negli- 
gence, and  disorder,  ending  with  abundance 
of  threats  that  they  should  be  elevated  to  a 
position  altogether  different  from  any  they 
desired,  unless  they  reformed  in  these  particu- 
lars. 

To-day  the  doctor,  —  not  the  ship's  surgeon, 
but  the  cook,  to  whom  the  sailors  had  given 


DECEIVING   THE   BUTCHER.  39 

the  title  of  M.  D.,  not  having  the  fear  of  this 
admonition  before  his  eyes,  became  intoxicated, 
and  set  the  galley  on  fire. 

With  some  there  is  much  mi  pleasant  feeling 
toward  the  supercargo,  who  has  induced  the 
captain  to  break  the  promise,  made  the  morn- 
ing after  his  imprisonment,  not  to  drink  any 
more,  and  there  are  those  among  the  passen- 
gers who  even  threaten  to  throw  them  both 
overboard.  So  much  endurance  is  hardly  to 
be  understood.  Some  captains  would  have 
placed  men  in  irons  for  such  conduct.  Surely 
we  are  an  undisciplined  crowd. 

Some  of  the  Brooklyn  gang  have  been  play- 
ing a  game  upon  our  butcher,  too.  This  offi- 
cial, a  green  Dutchman,  who  has  but  few  qual- 
ifications for  his  present  berth,  had  a  pig  to 
kill. 

Sailors  have  but  little  reason  to  expect  any 
thing  more  than  salt  beef  and  hard  bread 
imder  any  circumstances ;  and  knowing  if  they 
could  spoil  his  work,  it  would  be  their  fun,  and 
not  their  loss,  they  volunteered  to  take  Hans 
under  their  tuition,  which  they  did,  instructing 
him  to  skin  the  pig,  taking  from  it  an  enormous 


40  FINE   WEATHER. 

thickness  of  good  meat,  and  leaving  nothing 
but  a  mutilated  skeleton. 

There  is  no  use  complaining  to  the  captain. 
One  only  meets  with  an  indifferent  reply,  be 
the  matter  what  it  will,  unless  it  be  something 
that  affects  his  fancied,  personal  dignity. 

19th.  —  We  have  had  three  days  of  pleasant 
weather;  have  improved  it  in  clearing  the 
cabin,  which  was  becoming  extremely  forbid- 
ding to  any  lover  of  neatness. 

Clear  skies  and  balmy  air  have  indeed 
proved  humanizing  in  their  influence.  Many 
of  the  passengers  are  earlier  and  more  thorough 
in  their  ablutions,  less  inclined  to  discord,  and 
the  evenings  are  enlivened  with  music  and 
conversation.  There  is  something  beautiful 
and  majestic  in  the  appearance  of  the  broad 
ocean,  sparkling  in  the  clear  light  of  the  moon ; 
something  terrific  and  grand  in  its  tempest- 
tossed  billows,  stirred  to  fury  by  an  angry  storm. 

No  divine  service  to-day.  Alas !  the  captain 
does  not  allow  it. 

22d. — Monday  morning  the  steward  became 


A    DISTURBANCE.  41 

SO  much  intoxicated  we  had  no  breakfast  until 
ten  o'clock.  An  indignation  meeting  was  held 
by  the  passengers,  which  resulted  in  the  dis- 
missal of  the  delinquent  official,  and  the  elec- 
tion of  Anson  Carrington,  an  intelligent  young 
fellow,  to  fill  his  place.  More  disturbance 
again  to-day.  Hearing  a  tumult  above,  I  went 
on  deck,  where  I  found  undue  excitement  be- 
tween some  of  the  French  passengers  and  the 
chief  mate,  with  one  or  two  seamen.  The  sail- 
ors stood  with  knives  drawn,  and  the  impulsive 
Gauls  were  armed  with  bayonets  obtained 
from  a  rack  in  the  cabin. 

The  captain  saw  fit  to  interfere  at  this  time, 
and  with  pistol  in  hand,  succeeded  in  parting 
the  combatants  without  bloodshed. 

24th.  —  This  day  marks  the  anniversary  of 
the  exile  of  Louis  Philippe,  and  the  birth  of 
the  French  Eepublic  of  1848. 

The  Frenchmen  have  had  a  grand  jubilee 

over  it,  commencing  with  a  national  salute  at 

sunrise,  from  our  two  quarter-deck  carronades, 

and  followed  by  loud  cheers  at  the  elevation 

of  the   French   flag,   in   no   wise   intimidated 
4* 


42  A   FESTIVAL. 

by  the  thoughts  of  its  being  contrary  to  law. 
In  close  conjunction  to  this,  the  "stars  and 
stripes  "  of  our  own  America  were  floating  in  the 
breeze,  all  unconscious  of  the  incongruous  por- 
tion of  mankind  it  was  waving  over.  A  band, 
organized  from  the  available  material  on  board, 
played  "Hail  Columbia,"  and  the  "Marseilles 
Hymn." 

To  this  succeeded  a  formal  entertainment 
for  the  whole  ship's  company,  the  delicacies  of 
which  consisted  of  raisins,  dried  beef  and  her- 
rings, almonds  and  soda  crackers.  This  was 
enlivened  by  enthusiastic  speeches,  songs,  and 
toasts,  not  altogether  inappropriate  for  the 
commemoration  of  a  Fre'Qch  revolution,  and 
concluded  by  no  less  enthusiastic  fighting. 

The  mate,  contrary  to  custom,  as  well  as 
the  steward,  were  intoxicated.  The  transition 
from  angry  words  to  blows  was  quick  and 
sudden.  The  captain  was  strongly  solicited  to 
interpose,  but,  being  in  no  condition  himself 
for  sober  reflection,  his  only  answer,  prefaced 
with  an  oath,  was,  "  Let  them  fight  it  out." 

The  matter,  of  necessity,  was  taken  in  hand 
by  others,  and  the  feeling  subdued  for  a  time ; 


A   SHIP    SPOKEN.  43 

but  the  mate  soon  flew  into  a  rage,  seized 
whatever  weapons  were  at  hand,  and  hurled 
them  at  whoever  came  in  his  w^ay.  He  was 
taken  and  closely  confined,  where  a  few  hours 
served  to  quell  the  violence  of  his  passions, 
and  excite  in  him  deep  regret  for  his  disgrace- 
ful display,  after  having  so  long  been  an  advo- 
cate of  peace,  temperance,  and  good  order. 

We  must  have  presented  a  somew^hat  cmnous 
aspect  to  passing  vessels.  At  10  o'clock,  A.  M., 
while  in  the  midst  of  some  patriotic  demon- 
stration, with  flags  flying,  gunpowder  burning, 
people  shouting,  we  spoke  ship  Herculean, 
from  New  York  to  San  Francisco.  The  cap- 
tain hailed  us,  asked  the  usual  questions,  and 
was  somewhat  curious  to  know  who  we  w^ere, 
and  what  we  could  be  doing.  The  ships  kept 
close  company  for  some  hours  ;  when,  a  mod- 
erate breeze  springing  up,  we  left  them  with 
nine  hearty  cheers. 

If  this  be  patnotism^  0  country  !  thou  mightst 
well  blush  for  thy  sons. 


CHAPTER    III. 

ILL  FOREBODINGS. — TREACHERY  OP  THE  CAPTAIN. — 
A  SABBATH-DAY  PICTURE.  —  SHIP  GOVERNMENT.  — 
DISTURBANCES.  —  DISCIPLINE,    ETC. 

"  The  thing  in  the  world  I  am  most  afraid  of 
is  Fear,"  said  Montaigne,  "  and  with  good  rea- 
son—  that  passion  alone,  in  the  trouble  of  it, 
exceeding  all  other  accidents."  Some  appreci- 
ation of  this  sentiment  was  mine,  as  I  sat  down 
to  record  the  events  of  the  27th. 

Vague  and  growing  apprehensions  of  some 
indefinable  ill  seem  to  agitate  the  minds  of 
the  passengers,  not  only  as  regards  the  ulti- 
mate success  of  the  voyage,  but  our  immediate 
safety. 

Since  the  assault  of  last  week  it  is  evident 
that,  either  from  jealousy  or  some  other  cause, 
an  almost  deadly  hatred  exists  between  the 
captain  and  mate.  Additional  evils  are  feared 
from  such  an  alienation  of  feeling  among  the 
principal  officers  of  the  ship.     Many  are  de- 

(44) 


UNFRIENDLINESS    OF   THE   SUPERCARGO.  45 

sirous  of  making  the  Cape  Yerde  Islands,  now 
about  a  thousand  miles  distant,  that  they  may 
escape  as  soon  as  possible  from  this  scene  of 
drunkenness  and  confusion. 

The  supercargo,  who  has  seemed  of  late  to 
have  considerable  control  of  matters,  and  to 
be  the  only  person  worth  applying  to  for 
redress,  now  appears  to  the  passengers  to  be 
far  from  friendly. 

He  has  had  charge  of  the  stores,  and  for 
some  unknown  reason  has  made  way  with  or 
secreted  the  best  of  them,  leaving  for  us  noth- 
ing but  hard  bread  and  "  salt  junk,"  otherwise 
called  "  old  horse,"  both  being  the  cheap,  ordi- 
nary fare  of  common  sailors  ;  and  this,  evident- 
ly, what  remained  of  some  previous  voyage. 
However  strong  the  desire  may  be  for  an 
early  port,  the  captain  will  doubtless  be  de- 
terred by  the  probability  of  being  detained  in 
any  port  we  might  enter,  for  irregular  papers, 
on  account  of  the  number  of  passengers  so  far 
exceeding  the  legal  proportions. 

Yesterday,  to  the  utter  astonishment  of  all, 
we  were  placed  upon  short  allowance  of  water, 
only  three  pints  "  per  diem  "  being  measured 


46  AN    INVESTIGATION. 

out  to  each  person^  for  all  purposes  of  cooking 
and  for  drinking. 

This  course,  when  only  eighteen  days  out, 
excited  great  surprise,  and  instituted  active 
inquiry.  A  mass-meeting  was  convened  upon 
the  quarter  deck,  and  Carrington,  our  lately 
elected  steward,  placed  in  the  chair.  A  com- 
mittee of  investigation  was  appointed  —  Smith 
and  Buckley,  and  one  or  two  from  the  first 
cabin.  They  proceeded  at  once  to  the  exer- 
cise of  their  functions ;  searched  the  hold  as 
far  as  possible,  and  returned  in  a  half  hour  to 
report  a  scarcity  of  water,  for  even  for  one 
week,  at  the  three-pint  rate.  It  was  hereupon 
resolved  to  petition  the  captain  to  put  into  the 
nearest  port ;  all  considerations  of  inconven- 
ience yielding  to  the  imminent  necessity.  The 
document  was  drawn  up,  signed,  and  duly  pre- 
sented to  the  captain  by  a  deputation  chosen 
for  that  purpose ;  but  being  stupefied  with  the 
"  fiery  element,"  he  coolly  received  it,  and  laid 
it  aside,  with  no  answer  whatever. 

"  Hope,"  to  us,  is  where  it  was  in  the  poet's 
vision — ''  aloft  r 


OBSTINACY    OF    THE    CAPTAIN.  47 

March  1st.  The  vessel  was  headed  for  the 
much-wished-for  ipoit,  a  day  or  two  after  the 
petition ;  at  least,  so  we  were  told  by  the  com- 
mander ;  the  reality  of  the  thing  we  have  no 
means  of  knowing.  He  refuses  to  acquaint  us 
with  our  true  position,  working  out  all  his  ob- 
servations alone,  and  turnins^  a  deaf  ear  to  all 
inquiries  made  as  to  course  or  distance. 

It  is  true,  an  occasional  notice  of  latitude  and 
longitude  is  posted  on  the  bulletin,  side  of  the 
quarter-deck  house ;  but  such  is  our  confidence 
in  the  veracity  of  our  captain,  many  of  us 
think  he  would  as  soon  make  false  entries  as 
correct  ones.  We  begin  to  be  panic-stricken 
lest  we  die  of  thirst. 

Our  ears  have  been  greeted  by  the  informa- 
tion to-day,  that  we  are  j)ast  the  latitude  from 
which  we  could  have  made  the  islands,  and  con- 
sequently must  resume  our  southward  course. 

A  more  thorough  search  below,  however, 
has  resulted  in  the  discovery  of  three  hundred 
gallons  more  of  water  —  a  circumstance  that 
allays  the  fears  of  some,  but  only  appears  a 
temporary  quiet  to  others,  considering  the 
length  of  the  voyage. 


48  AN    ALARM.       SABBATH. 

After  a  new  and  solemn  trial,  we  have  a  ver- 
dict to  discharge  the  baker  from  his  situation 
for  fear  of  sinking  the  ship  with  his  heavy 
bread. 

5th,  Sunday.  Yesterday  we  had  another 
cry  that  the  ship  was  sinking — a  state  of 
things  ascertained  to  have  been  brought  about 
by  the  carelessness  of  the  officers,  who  had 
neglected  the  occasional  pumping,  usually 
necessary  at  sea.  A  broil  occurred  between 
the  captain,  mate,  and  supercargo ;  but  we 
have  come  to  consider  fighting  one  of  the 
common  occurrences  of  the  day.  We  have 
excitement  daily ;  more  on  the  Sabbath,  often, 
than  at  any  other  time  ;  making  the  day  one 
of  unrest,  rather  than  rest.  A  reflective  spirit, 
for  once,  seems  hovering  over  all,  and  what  is 
more,  there  seems  a  yielding  to  the  spell.  It 
is  afternoon,  and  we  are  sailing  quietly,  about 
five  degrees  north  of  the  line,  before  a  gentle 
breeze.  A  group  of  men  stand  leaning  over 
the  rail,  gazing  at  the  eddies  under  the  stern ; 
finding  in  the  quiet  of  their  own  thoughts,  for 
the  time,  a  solitude  as  perfect  as  though  in 


UNSUITABLE    ENIPLOYMEXT.  49 

the  midst  of  a  desert.  As  for  myself,  I  have 
secured  a  private  apartment,  by  means  of  a 
borrowed  blanket,  and  a  coil  of  hawser  lashed 
to  the  top  of  the  quarter-deck  house,  and  ex- 
tended to  the  rigging  by  rope-yarns,  &c. 
Agreeably  to  the  '*  systematic  disorder "  of  our 
condition  there  is  no  store  room  for  the  sail- 
makers,  and  our  spare  sails  and  cordage  are  all 
lashed  upon  this  narrow  roof  The  largest  coil 
on  the  after-starboard  corner  I  have  appro- 
priated to  my  own  use,  and  by  a  tacitly  recog- 
nized law,  this  has  become  my  sleeping  place  on 
pleasant  nights,  and  my  snug  retreat  by  day. 

Here  I  can  sit  and  write  at  my  ease,  and  at 
the  same  time  take  observations  of  those  about 
me,  if  I  wish. 

Smith  and  Buckley  are  playing  the  agreea- 
ble to  the  ladies,  Mrs.  Hope  and  Egan,  who 
are  enthroned  upon  a  couple  of  water  casks, 
forward  of  the  cook's  department.  A  quiet 
company  in  the  maintop  excite  strong  sus- 
picions that  they  are  engaged  in  the  unseason- 
able diversion  of  card  playing.  Forward,  the 
watch  are  mending;  clothes,  relatino;  tales  of  no 

CD  ^  Cj 

serious  character,  or  asleep  in  the  shade. 


50  HOME,   SWEET    HOME. 

The  movements  of  some  dozen  or  fifteen 
persons,  who  have  constituted  a  sort  of  "  ra- 
dius vector "  around  the  mainmast,  are  some- 
what amusing.  The  heat  is  such,  we  often  sit 
all  day  in  some  shady  place,  fearing,  if  left,  it 
w^ould  be  lost. 

To  the  shades  of  the  mainmast,  according^, 
this  little  band  of  patient  creatures  resorted 
after  dinner;  and  as  the  sunshine  gradually 
shifted  from  over  the  swelling  mainsail,  falling 
upon  them,  one  and  another  would  change 
their  position,  bringing  about  a  slow  motion, 
reminding  one  of  the  hour  hand  of  a  clock. 

But,  list !  strains  of  music.  Ah,  it  is  "  Home, 
sweet  Home."  How  it  sends  a  thrill  through 
my  heart,  and  moisture  to  my  eyes !  and  there 
is  no  difficulty  in  discovering  that  others  are 
affected  in  like  manner. 

We  have  been  twenty-four  days  out ;  and 
in  that  time  have  become  a  little  common- 
wealth by  ourselves,  with  such  marked  indi- 
viduality as  to  attract  the  attention  of  others. 

The  party  of  which  I  am  a  member  are  all, 
with  the  exception  of  Mr,  and  Mrs.  Hope,  from 
the  "land  of  steady  habits,"  and  no  disgrace, 


AN    EXCLUSIVE    FRATERNITY.  51 

I  ^Yould  fliin  believe,  to  our  native  state,  though 
the  praise  must  be  understood  as  comparative, 
for  the  various  thefts  which  we  have  executed, 
and  are  still  executing,  severally  or  together, 
although  not  less  justifiable,  perhaps,  than  the 
appropriation  of  the  Indian  corn  repositories  of 
the  starving  Pilgrims  of  Plymouth,  two  hun- 
dred years  ago,  yet  w^ould  scarcely  redound  to 
our  honor  if  j^erformed  while  living  at  ease  in 
good  old  Puritan  Hartford,  among  the  descend- 
ants of  the  Hookers  and  the  Ellsworths. 

We  pass,  however,  as  a  very  respectable  and 
intelligent  circle,  and  are  counted  such  desira- 
ble associates,  that  we  are  continually  solicited 
to  receive  one  and  another  into  our  little 
brotherhood,  but  decline  doing  so,  thinking  it 
more  prudent  to  maintain  a  polite  yet  firm 
exclusiveness. 

One  group  attracting  some  attention  is  the 
music-loving  Englishmen,  already  alluded  to, 
whose  astonishing  choice  of  a  time  for  instru- 
mental performance  was  during  the  very  first 
evening  of  sailing,  wdien  scarcely  a  semblance 
of  organization  was  visible,  and  a  note  of  har- 
mony seemed  impossible. 


/ 


52  ENGLISHMEN.       PRINCE    PAUL. 

They  have  stuck  together  with  a  true  John 
Bull-ish  spirit^  sneering  at  every  thing,  and 
constantly  telhng  how  much  better  things  are 
managed  on  board  "  HengHsh  ships."  They  cre- 
ate some  amusement  by  their  ultra- Yankee  opin- 
ions, and  half  vulgar  slangs  and  solecisms,  yet 
form  no  undesirable  feature  of  our  social  even- 
ings with  their  music,  vocal  and  instrumental. 

In  the  first  cabin  are  quite  a  number  of 
French  ]3assengers,  some  of  whom  seem  persons 
of  respectability  and  fortune,  who  appear,  by  a 
peculiar  sort  of  interest  in  the  voyage,  to  be  in 
some  way  connected  with  Pelletier,  the  miser- 
able owner,  or  the  more  dangerous  captain. 

The  house  on  the  quarter  deck  is  still  occu- 
pied by  the  New  Yorkers,  whose  treatment  of 
the  old  prince,  Paul  of  Wirtemberg,  has  al- 
ready been  noticed.  This  gentleman  seems  to 
have  lost  many  of  his  treasures  at  the  time  so 
much  was  consigned  to  the  deep.  Also,  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  James,  English  people,  have  lost  trunks 
containing  goods  estimated  by  themselves  at 
twenty  thousand  dollars,  which  they  were  trans- 
porting to  Australia  for  the  purpose  of  estab- 
lishing themselves  in  business. 


NEW  YOKKERS.   CORNISHMEN.        53 

The  prince's  suite,  whether  it  was  large  or 
small,  suddenly  disappeared  when  he  came  on 
board,  taking  advantage,  doubtless,  of  the  dou- 
ble-refined, high-pressure  style  of  republican 
independence  which  is  the  fashion  among  us. 

He  seems  to  have  plenty  of  the  exhilarating 
beverage,  and  by  dispensing  this  liberally,  he 
maintains  a  fair  understanding  with  those  he 
chooses  to  make  his  friends ;  but  his  unpleasant 
disposition  and  filthy  personal  habits  make  him 
an  object  of  repulsion  to  very  many. 

These  New  Yorkers  we  imagine  to  be  clerks 
and  foremen  —  scheming  fellows,  but  unsuc- 
cessful in  money  matters,  and  are  therefore 
repairing  to  the  golden  regions  to  acquire  the 
fortune  their  own  land  denies  them. 

Among  the  rest  are  a  dozen  Cornish  miners, 
athletic  men,  w^ho,  wath  their  mining  tools  and 
other  accoutrements,  constitute  a  mess  by  them- 
selves, occupying  the  whole  of  the  midship 
house. 

They  are  extremely  quiet,  admit  no  one  into 
their  fellowship,  show  such  a  united  front,  and 
so  much  physical  force,  that  nobody  cares  to 
annoy  them. 

5* 


64  THE  captain's  independence. 

Such  are  the  component  parts  of  our  little 
nation.  I  speak  of  rcjmhUcan  government ;  but 
it  sometimes  seems  an  anomalous  compound  of 
the  despotic  and  the  patriarchal,  or  more,  per- 
haps, like  the  times  when  "  there  was  no  king 
in  Israel,"  and  every  man  did  that  which  was 
right  in  his  own  eyes. 

There  is  some  discipline  among  the  sailors, 
such  as  it  is.  The  captain,  when  not  too  much 
intoxicated,  stands  boastingly  on  his  own  dig- 
nity, seemingly  regarding  the  passengers  as  a 
herd  of  inferior  beings.  He  vouchsafes  no  in- 
formation as  to  ]Dlace  or  prospect,  except  in 
extreme  cases,  ever  replying  that  he  is  master, 
and  if  he  knows  where  the  ship  is,  and  where 
she  is  going,  "  it's  enough."  All  matters  relat- 
ing to  those  on  board  he  leaves  to  their  own 
unassisted  management,  with  the  exception  of 
serving  out  food  and  water,  which  he  and  the 
supercargo  seem  to  arrange  together. 

We  have  therefore  gradually  arrived  at  a 
sort  of  unwritten  code  or  common  law,  which 
the  common  sense  of  the  whole  body  upholds, 
and  which  is  promptly  sustained  whenever  ne- 
cessary by  individual  might,  mass  meetings,  &c. 


A   NOVEL    CODE.  55 

Theft  of  things  necessary  and  convenient  is 
allowable,  as  in  Sparta,  so  that  our  Bill  of 
Rights,  or  fundamental  laws,  might  be  compen- 
diously stated  thus :  — 

1.  Every  man  for  himself. 

2.  Steal  whatever  you  wish,  if  you  can  find  it. 

3.  Act  decently,  unless  it  is  out  of  the  ques- 
tion. 

As  an  example  of  administrative  proceed- 
ings under  the  code,  I  cite  the  following  in- 
stance :  — 

Two  Italians,  who  occupied  the  same  bunk 
in  the  forward  part  of  the  steerage,  were  ob- 
served never  to  undress.  To  say  nothing  of 
the  influence  on  the  olfactory  organs,  we  knew 
such  doings,  persevered  in,  to  be  provocative 
of  infectious  disorders,  and  remonstrated  with 
them  quite  strongly,  but  to  no  purpose. 

Accordingly,  some  half  dozen  combined  early 
one  morning,  and  dragged  them,  in  spite  of 
their  resistance,  to  the  top-gallant  forecastle, 
the  appointed  place  for  ablutions,  where  they 
were  regaled  w^th  several  buckets  of  clean  sea- 
water,  rather  unceremoniously  administered. 
With   this   encouragement   they   speedily  in- 


56  PORTER   "SMOUGED." 

dulged  in  a  little  wash^  and  a  change  of  linen, 
such  as  they  had. 

With  the  liberty  of  the  second  article^  one 
might  witness  our  "  smouging  "  a  whole  cask 
of  porter,  twelve  dozen  bottles,  from  the  deck, 
first  taking  the  superfluous  precaution  in  our 
scrupulousness  to  ascertain  that  no  one  knew 
its  owner. 

We  arranged  the  bottles  snugly  under  the 
mattresses  in  our  bunks,  and  drink  the  black 
tonic  at  our  leisure.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Hope  share 
wdth  us,  of  course,  though  it  has  proved  a 
decided  misfortune  to  the  latter.  Upon  her 
feather  bed,  the  pride  and  delight  of  her  heart, 
one  or  two  bottles  have  been  unfortunately 
broken,  saturating  it  in  such  a  manner  as  to 
insure  its  complete  ruin.  Notwithstanding  the 
joint  opposition  of  its  owners,  it  has  been 
thrown  overboard.  The  old  lady  has  more 
than  once  been  found  in  tears,  well  nigh  proved 
to  rise  from  this  dreadful  loss,  while  we,  unfeel- 
ing creatures,  are  cruel  enough  to  laugh  at  her 
calamity. 

March  8th.  —  Lat.  5^  north.     Cool  and  light 


REFLECTIONS.  57 

winds.  Captain  proposes  to  steer  for  South 
America.  Official  jealousy  and  rum,  however, 
are  causes  of  almost  daily  trouble  between  the 
captain  and  his  officers,  preventing  united  ac- 
tion in  any  thing.  Bloodshed  was  only  stayed 
to-day  by  the  interference  of  passengers. 

gth.  —  Very  hot  and  calm.  Sea  smooth  and 
glassy.  Nothing  breaks  the  absolute  motion- 
less glitter  of  its  surface,  except  a  broad  and 
gentle  swell,  silently  and  steadily  approaching 
us  from  the  north,  scarcely  disturbing  our  tran- 
quillity, as  it  passes  beneath  and  by  us,  in  its 
course  toward  the  south. 

From  my  retreat  in  the  hawser,  I  gaze  upon 
the  wide  expanse,  and  a  solemn  awe  steals  over 
my  mind,  as  I  think  of  the  glory,  majesty,  and 
power  of  Him  "who  holds  the  waters  in  the 
hollow  of  his  hands,"  gives  them  their  appointed 
bounds,  controls  the  winds  and  the  storm,  and 
sends  forth,  at  his  w^ill,  his  messengers  of  fury, 
or  mandate  of  "  Peace.'' 

I  shall  take  advantage  of  the  quiet  in  pen- 
ning the  history  of  a  day's  experience  on  board. 


58  FIRST    MESS. 

We  rise  when  we  choose.  All  who  could  find 
a  place  have  slept  on  deck  since  coming  into 
warm  latitudes,  so  that  there  is  even  less  cere- 
mony than  usual,  most  making  nothing  but  a 
"  dog's  toilet/'  giving  a  jump  and  a  shake,  and 
it  is  done.  As  for  myself  and  friends,  we  make 
it  a  point  to  take  a  thorough  bath  before  break- 
fast, w^hich  we  accomplish  by  successively  throw- 
ing water  upon  each  other.  This  we  find  to 
contribute  much  to  our  health  and  spirits,  be- 
side keeping  us  in  gaining  order,  despite  our 
hard  fare  and  bad  lodging. 

Almost  the  first  sound  that  greets  our  ears 
in  early  morn  is  from  the  "  Doctor,"  who  thrusts 
his  frouzy  head  from  his  room,  shouting,  "  First 
mess." 

The  steerage  steward  repeats  the  words,  and 
soon  a  hundred  different  voices  reecho  the  wel- 
come call,  at  which  multitudes  seize  their  pails, 
basins,  plates,  tubs,  or  whatever  utensil  they 
have,  and  rush  for  the  place  of  attraction, 
knowing  the  proverb  to  be  in  full  force,  "  First 
come,  first  served." 

The  hungry  men  arrange  themselves  in  a 
line,  not  unlike  those  at  the  "  General  Deliv- 


SECOND    MESS.  59 

erj  "  of  a  Post  Office,  Avhile  the  carver  delivers 
to  each  his  allotted  portion. 

While  the  earlier  ones  are  served,  the  rest 
have  time  to  jump  np,  secure  their  dishes,  take 
their  23laces  behind,  and  in  ten  or  fifteen  min- 
utes the  mess  is  served,  and  a  shout  of,  "  Second 
mess,"  summons  another  group.  All  scatter 
about  the  vessel  to  eat,  some  in  the  rigging, 
some  on  the  rail,  and  others  on  the  water  casks. 
Harman,  Yates,  and  myself  usually  meet  on 
the  roof  of  the  quarter-deck  house,  where,  with 
conversation  alternately  jovial  and  serious,  we 
dispatch  our  coarse  viands,  which  are  scarcely 
sufficient  to  meet  the  demands  of  our  generous 
sea-appetites.  The  first  cabin  and  officers  are 
served  with  some  pretense  of  form,  while  the 
sailors  have  last  and  least  of  all  brought  before 
them  in  a  wooden  tub.  Tubs  are  also  used  for 
the  Cornishmen,  and  the  New  Yorkers,  who  do 
their  own  dividing,  but  have  little  relish  for 
their  coarse  stjde  of  food. 

Indeed,  all  of  us  have  many  times  quoted  the 
fallacious  promise  of  the  advertisement.  This 
morning,  as  Yates  and  myself  each  drew  from 
one  pocket  his  piece  of  hard  beef,  and  from  the 


60  AFTER-BREAKFAST    EMPLOYMENT. 

other  the  still  harder  cracker,  while  sitting  on 
the  hawser,  Yates  held  his  up,  one  in  each 
hand,  saying,  archly,  "All  the  attention  of  a 
first-class  hotel." 

The  New  Yorkers  seem  unable  to  take 
things  merrily,  seldom  making  a  joke  of  their 
condition,  or,  at  least,  only  a  sour  one.  They 
often  hail  the  advent  of  their  meal,  esjoecially 
if  the  wooden  tub  contains  a  good,  hearty 
soup,  with,  "  Here  comes  the  swill." 

Breakfast  over,  we  have  the  time  till  dinner 
to  mend  and  wash  clothes,  which  latter  process 
is  accomplished  by  soaking  them  thoroughly 
and  towing  them  overboard  all  day ;  in  telling 
stories  ;  reciting  prose  and  poetry ;  reading  to 
each  other  ;  playing  at  cards  or  chess  ;  lounging 
about  and  sleeping,  or  doing  nothing  what- 
ever. These  occupations  are  varied  by  scan- 
dal, news,  and  other  occurrences,  corresponding 
to  the  excitement  of  newspaper  paragraphs  in 
land  communities.  Indeed,  most  of  our  scenes 
are  as  warlike  as  Othello's  fortunes. 

It  is  rumored  that  the  steward's  wife  has 
been  flirting  quite  unjustifiably  with  the  mate ; 
another  version  has  it  with  the  supercargo  — 


A    QUARREL.  61 

a  circumstance  which  accounts  for  the  constant 
quarrehng  between  these  domestic  and  nauti- 
cal officials. 

At  one  time  a  disturbance  was  noticed  in 
the  small^  open  space  before  the  companion 
way,  soon  ascertained  to  be  John  Newman, 
one  of  our  English  steerage  musicians,  a  brag- 
ging, gaseous  son  of  Bull,  scolding  at  Har- 
man.  A  ring  of  pleased  spectators  gathered 
as  quickly  as  to  a  "  dog  fight,"  and  in  like  man- 
ner encouraged  the  disputers.  From  words 
they  were  on  the  point  of  coming  to  blows, 
when  the  burly  face  of  the  old  captain  was 
seen  on  deck,  aiming  at  the  company  at  the 
same  time,  a  "nine-cornered  oath,"  and  two 
six-barreled  pistols.  Fear  of  the  reckless  com- 
mander quelled  the  tumult,  and  the  crowd, 
noise,  and  quarrel  disappeared  together. 

Yf  e  talk  of  the  prospect  for  a  port,  and  won- 
der if  we  are  steering  for  Bio,  Pernambuco, 
Cape  Town,  or,  as  some  suggest,  for  "  Destruc- 
tion." Nobody  knows,  but  unless  we  get  a 
supply  of  water,  the  latter  seems  the  most 
probable. 

6 


62  DINNER    FARE. 

We  have  now  only  a  quart  for  the  day,  each 
of  us,  which  is  served  out  at  breakfast. 

Like  quantities  of  wine,  a  dollar  in  money, 
and  various  other  offers  are  made  for  a  quart 
of  the  precious  fluid.  It  is  said  the  captain 
sold  to  a  passenger,  who  represented  himself 
as  suffering,  a  quart  of  wine  for  one  dollar  and 
a  half  The  ship's  company  are  unanimous  in 
condemning  such  petty,  unfeeling  greediness. 

"  First  mess,"  again  sounds  through  the  ship, 
signifying  the  arrival  of  the  dinner  hour,  and 
the  rush  consequent  upon  this  announcement. 
With  dishes  in  hand,  we,  perhajDS,  secure  a 
combination  of  beans,  potatoes,  rice,  soup,  or 
duff,  —  a  terrific  caricature  of  flour  pudding, — 
in  exchange  for,  or  in  addition  to,  our  usual 
beef  and  bread.  These  delicacies,  on  account 
of  narrow  cooking  accommodations,  are  fur- 
nished only  to  one  mess  at  once  ;  and  those 
who  dislike  their  meal  are  thus  able  to  effect  a 
barter  with  some  one  in  another  mess. 

Maoinnis,  the  fellow  whom  we  believe  a 
graduate  of  the  Sing-Sing  institution,  w^as, 
somehow,  chosen  carver  of  the  second-steerage 
mess,  and  is  guilty  of  inexcusable  partiality ; 


AFTERNOON    DIVERSIONS.  63 

selecting  the  best  and  largest  cuts  of  meat, 
coupled  with  slices  of  duff  of  equal  thickness 
from  the  large  end  of  the  pudding,  which  is 
boiled  in  a  huge  bag,  of  sugar-loaf  form,  for 
his  particular  friends. 

This,  of  course,  is  the  origin  of  a  quarrel, 
characterized  by  striking,  swearing,  and  tum- 
bling about  the  deck.  They  are  separated  at 
last,  with  bruised  and  bloody  faces,  take  a  salt- 
water wash,  and  return  to  their  dishes,  only  to 
meet  the  triumphant  shout  of  the  idle  gazers, 
as  they  find  them  empty;  some  sly  fellow 
having  stolen  their  allowance,  wdiile  they  were 
too  busy  fighting  to  care  for  them. 

"  Good  enough  for  them,"  resounds  from  all 
sides  of  the  ship,  as  the  poor  fellows  make 
their  exit  with  empty  plates. 

The  hours  of  the  afternoon  are  spent  in  a 
manner  similar  to  those  of  earlier  day,  with 
the  exception  of  more  sleep.  We  have  work, 
study,  conversation,  quarrel,  and  fighting.  Sup- 
per is  served  at  sunset,  after  which  comes 
the  best  part  of  the  day,  made  lively  by  con- 
certs of  vocal  and  instrumental  music,  pub- 
lic   recitations    and    speeches,    entertainments 


Gl  CHARACTER    OF    THE    MATE. 

of  jokes,    narratives,    strange    delineations    of 
strange  events,  and  sometimes  a  hornpipe. 

As  it  grows  dark,  one  and  another  select  a 
"  soft  place "  on  the  deck,  spars,  or  roof,  and 
prepare  to  sleep.  The  song  and  laugh  grad- 
ually die  away,  and  by  eleven  o'clock  the  ship 
is  still,  and  nearly  all  her  motley  company 
asleep.  A  few  sit  w^atching  the  ocean  and  the 
sky  all  the  long  hours  of  the  night,  meditating 
upon  the  land  and  the  fortunes  they  have  left 
behind,  or  anticipating  those  in  the  future. 

Payson,  the  chief  mate,  has  been  involved 
in  some  disturbance.  He  is  a  man  of  smooth 
demeanor  and  plausible  speech,  but,  I  verily 
believe,  a  thorough  and  merciless  scoundrel. 
He  is  a  very  good  friend  of  mine,  however, 
notwithstanding  this  indulgence  of  expression. 
Being  one  of  those  who  never  go  to  sea  with- 
out experiencing  seasickness,  I  was  able  to 
administer  materially  to  his  comfort  during 
our  first  rough  days  out,  and  he  seems,  at  least, 
to  have  the  merit  of  being  grateful  for  favors 
received. 

Signs  of  rain  are  manifest.  All  hands  busy 
in   preparing  to    catch    every   drop ;    hoping 


SUPPLY    OF    WATER.  65 

against  hope^  lest  the  refresliiiig    draught  be 
denied. 

10th. — At  two  o'clock  this  morning  a  heavy 
squall  struck  us^  and  the  deck  was  instantly 
crowded  with  people,  half  dressed,  eager  to 
catch  the  refreshing  beverage  in  every  thing 
that  would  receive  it.  In  an  hour  or  two  we 
were  the  happy  possessors  of  two  hundred 
gallons  of  water  —  a  week's  short  allowance. 

During  the  day  spoke  a  Spanish  brig,  bound 
for  Brazil.  Only  eight  casks  of  water  on 
board,  and,  of  course,  none  to  spare.  Crossed 
the  line  in  the  night.  Prince  Paul  seems  very 
ill )  is  not  expected  to  live. 

6* 


CHAPTER  lY. 

PERSONIFICATION  OF  NEPTUNE.  —  EFFORTS  TO  OBTAIN 
WATER.  —  JOY  ON  SEEING  LAND.  —  APPEARANCE  OP 
THE   NATIVES.  —  CATAMARANS,   ETC. 

11th. —  Calm  and  hot.  Towards  evening  old 
Neptune  came  on  board,  over  the  bows,  after 
the  coarse  old  fashion,  having  pretended  to 
hail  the  ship  from  afar.  This  was  done  by 
English  Charley,  one  of  the  crew,  personifying 
his  majesty,  by  fantastically  disguising  himself 
with  oakum,  and  various  singular  devices. 
This  done,  he  and  his  train  of  sea  gods  forth- 
with proceeded  to  administer  to  the  passen- 
gers the  appropriate  rites  of  naturalization  as 
new  subjects  of  his  watery  realm. 

I  was  sitting  on  the  quarter  deck,  talking 
with  the  ladies,  when  these  divinities  made 
their  appearance.  It  was  the  mate's  watch, 
and  a  good  opportunity,  as  they  thought,  to 
carry  out  their  amusement. 

The  captain,  or,  indeed,  any  decent  officer, 

(66) 


CEREMONY    OF    SHAVING.  G7 

would  have  put  an  end  to  it  at  once ;  for  it  is, 
in  fact,  but  an  obsolete  relic  of  nautical  rude° 
ness,  never  practiced  except  on  whaling  ves- 
sels, those  disorderly  houses  of  the  ocean,  or 
on  ships  as  lawless  and  ungoverned  as  our 
own.  Pay  son,  from  his  station  on  the  quarter 
deck,  kept  close  watch,  permitting  them  to 
seize  only  those  who  were  specially  obnoxious, 
or  those  to  whom  he  was  personally  unfriendly 
or  indifferent. 

That  none  might  escape,  however,  they 
sprinkled  a  plentiful  shower  of  salt  water  over 
every  body  on  deck,  and  between  decks.  The 
unhappy  victims  of  the  special  operation  were 
subject  to  a  more  fearful  ordeal,  being  placed 
over  a  tub  of  water,  held  firmly  down,  while  a 
barber-ous  operator  rubbed  tar  on  their  cheeks 
with  a  stick,  and  scraped  them  with  another. 

This  tonsure  accomplished,  the  ceremony 
was  concluded  by  upsetting  a  bucket  of  sea 
water  on  their  heads,  and  setting  them  at 
libertv.  Some  obstinate  recusants  saved  them- 
selves  by  drawing  knives  or  pistols. 

One  somewhat  contumacious  fellow  was 
shaved  three  times  over ;  at  the  last  escaping 


68  PRACTICAL    JOKE. 

to  flee  toward  the  cabin,  ciying  ^-murder/'  at 
the  top  of  his  voice.  As  he  was  descending 
the  stairs,  a  bucket  of  salt  water  was  thrown 
upon  his  head,  mostly  received,  however,  into 
the  face  of  the  captain,  who  happened  to  open 
the  door  of  his  room  at  that  moment,  for  the 
purpose  of  ascertaining  the  cause  of  the  tu- 
mult. Of  course  his  anger  was  aroused,  and 
returning  for  his  pistols,  he  threatened  to  fire 
into  the  crowd,  but  finally  contented  himself 
with  ordering  off  old  Neptune,  who  immedi- 
ately obeyed,  and  thus  ended  the  affair. 

The  business  of  practical  joking  is  quite 
briskly  followed  up  in  this  ship.  One  which  we 
infer  to  be  a  favorite,  from  its  frequency,  is  to 
tie  a  stout  ropeyarn  to  the  feet  of  some  poor 
fellow  asleep  on  deck,  while  the  other  end  is 
carried  into  the  rigging  above,  continually  ele- 
vating, slowly  and  cautiously,  till  the  shoulders 
only  touch  the  deck.  Sleep  being  impossible 
in  such  a  situation,  and  the  circumstances 
tending  to  kindle  the  fires  of  passion,  there  are 
usually  various  contortions,  and  a  burst  of  pro- 
fanity at  once  terrible  and  amusing.  Some 
lithe,  active  ones  contrive  to  free  themselves ; 


A    PRIZE.  69 

but  almost  all  have  to  strive  in  utter  helpless- 
ness until  they  are  exhausted,  and  some  tardy 
but  professedly  indignant  and  sympathizing 
friend  comes  to  the  rescue. 

Another  delicate  operation  is  to  tickle  the 
faces  of  sleepers  with  a  feather  suspended  from 
a  string,  while  the  unconscious  object  furnishes 
the  amusement,  by  his  unsuccessful  attempts 
to  brush  away  the  supposed  creeping  thing. 
It  speaks  but  poorly  for  our  company,  when 
delight  in  the  misery  of  others  is  so  manifest. 

A  more  amusing  spectacle,  I  venture  to  say, 
was  never  looked  upon  than  we  presented  a 
short  time  since.  A  barrel  of  apples  were 
shipped  at  New  York,  but  were  left  in  the 
damp  air  of  the  hold,  where  they  had  been 
constantly  decaying,  till  the  whole  was  re- 
solved into  jelly,  as  it  were,  with  only  here 
and  there  a  fragment  remaining  somid.  This 
barrel  was  brought  on  deck,  and  its  contents 
poured  into  a  heap,  for  the  benefit  of  all  whom 
it  might  concern.  Some  twenty  men,  famish- 
ing for  any  thing  of  a  kindred  nature  to  fruit, 
instantly  threw  themselves  headlong  upon  the 
prize,  seeking,  with  astonishing  eagerness,  their 


70  SABBATH. 

portion  of  the  inviting  pile.  I  must  confess 
myself  as  frantic  as  any  body,  but  instead  of 
trying  to  dive  down  through  the  living  mass, 
I  thrust  myself  under  their  legs,  feeling  my 
way  along,  and  disregarding  all  manner  of 
knocks  and  blows. 

By  this  cunning  operation  in  the  substra- 
tum I  quietly  selected  one  apple,  and  then 
another,  thrusting  each  within  my  shirt  bosom, 
until  I  had  gathered  more  than  a  dozen,  and 
was  obliged,  from  sheer  exhaustion,  to  make 
my  way  out,  perfectly  covered  from  forehead 
to  chin,  and  from  chin  to  lowest  extremities, 
wath  rotten  apple,  yet  more  than  repaid,  as  I 
thought,  for  all  the  trouble  and  filth,  were  they 
ten  times  as  much. 

The  apples,  half  crushed  and  decayed  as 
they  were,  were  as  welcome  "  as  apples  of  gold 
in  pictures  of  silver;"  and  strange  as  it  may 
seem,  were  unspeakably  delicious  to  the  taste. 

13th.  —  Yesterday,  the  Sabbath,  w^as  com- 
menced by  the  mate  prostrating  one  of  the 
sailors,  and  leavino;  him  bleedino*  and  senseless 
upon  the  deck.     How  far  such  a  spirit  from 


LIBERALITY    OF   A    PASSENGER.  71 

the  design  of  the  seventh  day !  —  a  day  richer 
in  sacred  association  than  any  other  that  ever 
dawned  upon  the  human  race. 

In  the  morning,  with  a  perfect  cahn,  a  party 
of  eight,  consisting  of  passengers  and  sailors, 
started  in  the  small  boat  for  a  ship  four  miles 
distant,  with  the  hope  of  obtaining  some  water. 

They  returned  with  the  report  that  three 
hundred  gallons  might  be  had,  also  some  wine, 
at  very  low  rates,  but  insisted  upon  stipulating 
that  they  alone  should  return  for  it,  thus  indi- 
cating some  speculative  scheme  in  our  necessi- 
ties. 

Upon  this,  M.  Saintpris,  one  of  the  French 
passengers,  offered  to  purchase  two  or  three 
casks  upon  his  own  responsibility,  and  distrib- 
ute it  among  those  on  board  at  cost.  Speedy 
assent  being  given  to  this,  he  joined  the  boat's 
crew  in  their  return. 

Marked  indications  of  a  storm  appearing  late 
in  the  afternoon,  and  the  boat  not  having 
returned,  fears  began  to  be  entertained  for 
their  safetv,  which  caused  the  chief  mate  to 
man  the  other  boat,  and  go  to  their  assistance. 

Little  benefit,  however,  as  it  proved.     It  was 


72  LOSS    OF    WINE. 

long  before  either  boat  returned,  and  then, 
amid  great  darkness,  with  the  wind  blowing 
fearfully,  and  the  crew  in  both  boats  stupefied 
with  strong  drink.  Two  whole  casks  of  wine 
were  lost,  and  only  through  much  difficulty 
and  exertion  the  third  was  saved,  and  the  men 
rescued  from  their  perilous  situation.  The 
wine  ",as  sold  to-day  by  Saintpris,  according  to 
his  promise,  at  one  dollar  a  gallon,  being  the 
original  cost  to  him. 

The  passengers  are  threatening  to  make 
trouble  for  the  captain  whenever  we  get  into 
port,  in  revenge  for  his  misdemeanors.  Prince 
Paul,  however,  w^ho  has  recovered  from  his 
sickness,  and  engaged  in  his  wonted  manner, 
has  influenced  the  leaders  to  desist  in  such  a 
movement,  by  promising  a  cask  of  wine  —  a 
powerful  inducement  to  them. 

We  have  had  another  most  welcome  shower 
of  rain  —  a  matter  of  great  rejoicing,  as  one 
would  conclude,  to  see  the  women  and  chil- 
dren with  cups,  teapots,  pans,  pails,  tubs,  and 
indeed  every  imaginable  receptacle,  eager  to 
catch  the  descending  drops.  A  quart  of  water 
is  a  small  allowance,  in  this  latitude,  for  one 


SHIP    SPOKEN.  73 

day,  and  our  supply  at  this  rate  is  fearfully 
short. 

m 

16th.  —  We  have  made  another  acquisition, 
acting  under  the  second  article  of  our  unwrit- 
ten code,  viz.,  a  case  of  codfish  and  a  ham.  We 
unobtrusively  drew  them  from  the  lower  hold, 
which  is  opened  twice  a  week  for  the  purpose 
of  getting  stores,  and  placed  them  in  a  dark 
corner  of  our  sanctum,  whither  none  are  per- 
mitted to  enter,  save  our  own  favored  group. 
Here  we  have  enjoyed  many  a  delicate  morsel 
of  codfish  and  ham,  both  of  which  we  have 
eaten  raw. 

Have  spoken  ship  Duncan  Hoyle,  from 
Greenock  to  Australia.  How  welcome  the 
sound  of  these  human  voices  on  this  wide 
waste  of  waters !  So  much  jarring  and  wran- 
gling, however,  within  our  own  limits,  an  ina- 
bilitv  to  articulate  sounds  would  sometime.^i 
seem  almost  a  mercy. 

The  caj^tain  has  threatened  to  kill  any  one 
who  shall  intimate  an  intention  of  taking  pro- 
ceedings against  him  in  port  for  his  ill  doing. 

It  is  a  matter  worthy  of  record,  we  have  had 

7 


74  A    SIXGULAK    CIIAHACTER. 

no  fight  during  the  clay, — nothing  but  a  scold- 
ing match  between  Prince  Paul  and  Terence 
McManus,  an  impetuous  young  Celt,  who  man- 
ifests a  purely  Irish  spirit  of  independence, 
advocating  strongly  every  thing  opposed  to 
aristocracv,  or  kindred  to  it. 

He  is  in  almost  daily  dispute  with  the  Eng- 
lishmen. The  summit  of  his  aspirations  seems 
to  be  to  marshal  a  company  against  the  cap- 
tain or  some  of  his  officers ;  but  his  noisy  resi> 
lessness  and  inconsistent  conduct,  while  they 
furnish  considerable  amusement,  and  no  little 
annoyance,  are  yet  the  source  of  very  little 
alarm.  The  following  poetical  description  is 
suggested  as  an  epitome  of  his  character: — 

"  Each  hour  a  different  face  he  wears ; 
Now  in  fury,  now  in  tears, 

Now  laughing,  anon  in  sorrow ; 
A  while  commanding,  then  obejing ; 
Crying  for  Hberty  to-day, 

Calling  for  power  to-morrow." 

But,  evidently,  he  has  a  mission,  and  we 
have  all  agreed  he  was  made  expressly  for  the 
leader  of  an  Irish  rebellion ;  and  consequently 


ILL    FEELINGS.  75 

we  have  elaborate  schemes  in  contemplation 
for  sending  him  thither  as  a  pioneer  hero  in 
the  cause. 

17th.  —  III  hmnor  sometimes  seems  a  certain 
result  of  atmospheric  conditions.  A  peculiarly 
oppressive  and  gloomy  atmosphere  through  the 
day  has  soured  every  temper  on  board ;  captain, 
officers,  seamen,  passengers,  and  all  appeared  to 
be  in  perfect  sympathy  with  the  misanthropic 
bard,  whose  productions  were  of  no  great 
weight,  but  perhaps  all  we  might  expect  from 
one  so  much  out  of  humor  with  himself  and  all 
mankind. 

"  Fret  away,  scold  away ; 
Time  is  going  fast ; 
Every  day  is  one  the  less, 
Scold  on  till  the  last." 

Nothing  suited  any  body,  unless,  indeed,  Mrs. 
Egan  was  satisfied,  as  in  truth  she  seemed  to 
be,  by  wreaking  her  vengeance  upon  poor 
John  Newman,  the  little  boas  tin  q;  En^-lishman. 

He  had  accused  her  of  stealins;  water  from 
him — ^no  light  charge  when  w^e  are  actually  suf- 
fering from  the  want  of  it.     This  afternoon,  as 


76  A    SQUABBLE. 

a  knot  of  us  were  near  the  hatchway,  Newman, 
all  unconscious  of  his  fate,  came  deliberately 
up  the  small  ladder.  As  he  stepped  on  deck, 
Mrs.  E.,  a  stout  Irishwoman,  with  strong  right 
arm,  and  fearless,  violent  temper,  pounced 
angrily  u23on  him,  jerked  him  a  step  forward 
by  the  collar,  planted  him  in  the  midst  of  the 
astounded  spectators,  forthwith  instituting  the 
reproachful  inquiry,  "  Stole  tvather  from  ye,  ye 
miserable  cratw,  hey  ?  "  —  at  the  same  time  giv- 
ing him  two  sharp  blows  with  her  hand,  on 
either  side  the  head.  She  gave  him  no  time 
to  recover,  but  immediately  administered,  as 
one  of  our  clerks  said,  ^^  Ditto,  ditto,  a  size 
larger,"  until  the  poor  fellow  had  endured  hard 
treatment  sufficient  to  shatter  his  small  brains 
into  still  more  hopelessly  small  particles. 

For  a  time  he  seemed  inclined  to  return  the 
blows ;  but  a  spectator,  scarcely  able  to  speak 
for  his  risible  emotion,  called  out,  "Strike  a 
woman,  will  you,  you  scoundrel ! " 

This  deterred  him  from  the  attempt,  and  led 
him  to  seek  his  escape  from  the  infuriated 
dame  ;  but  her  wrath  not  being  fully  spent,  she 
refused  to  let  him  go.    When  he  was  permitted 


A    CONCERT.  77 

to  retire  at  last,  three  hearty  cheers  testified 
the  piibhc  appreciation  of  the  effort  to  main- 
tain the  inviolability  of  female  reputation,  and 
also  the  first  article  of  our  admirable  code. 

The  skies  and  tempers  cleared  up  togeth- 
er towards  evening,- and  after  supper  we  had 
a  pleasant  concert,  chiefly  of  instrumental 
music. 

Madam  Saintpris,  the  wife  of  the  French  law- 
yer, who  so  generously  procured  us  wine,  is  an 
accomplished  singer,  having  even  appeared 
with  credit  at  the  opera.  Several  times  before 
she  has  favored  us  wdth  solos,  which  certainly 
seemed  very  brilliant  to  us,  and  undoubtedly 
were  so. 

It  is  wath  some  measure  of  appreciation  we 
regard  the  saying  of  him  who  avowed  that 
"music  hath  charms  to  rend  a  rock."  What 
shall  we  say  then  of  some  of  our  crew,  whose 
hearts  seem  utterly  impervious  to  these  influ- 
ences ? 

20th.  —  We  are  really  in  actual  suffering. 
We  must  inevitably  have  sickness  on  board 
unless  we    speedily  communicate   w^ith   some 

7* 


78  INDIGNATION    MEETING. 

friendly  vessel  or  with  the  shore.  Claret  has 
been  distributed  among  us  by  the  sui3ercargo, 
two  quarts  of  which  we  may  have  at  one  dollar 

a  bottle. 

The  passengers  have  been  expressing  their 
opinion  of  the  captain's  ^conduct  quite  freely 
to-day,  even  on  that  ship-master's  sanctum,  the 
quarter  deck.  Becoming  somewhat  acquainted 
with  the  nature  of  the  remarks,  he  ordered 
them  from  the  deck ;  but  all  in  vain  he  will  try 
to  silence  these  abused  and  starving  men.  He 
may  be  thankful  we  do  not  rise  and  take  the 
vessel  into  our  own  hands.  We  can  count 
enough  sufficiently  skilled  in  navigation  to 
take  charge  of  things,  even  if  every  one  of  the 
present  crew  were  removed. 

Cheese  and  crackers,  and  one  quart  of  water 
a  day,  is  poor  cheer  after  the  payments  we 
have  made,  and  the  promises  we  have  received ; 
but  what  is  worse,  we  are  told  that  a  pint  only 
will  soon  be  our  portion.  -  What  we  do  have  is 
bad,  thick,  and  slimy  ;  but  poor  as  it  is,  we  shall 
be  glad  to  get  such  soon. 

23d.  —  Fair  breeze,  carrying  us  rapidly  to- 


PURIFYING    THE    WATER.  79 

wards  the  coast  of  Brazil.  "  Sail  ho  ! "  electri- 
fied us  all;  and  we  anticipated  a  most  seasona- 
ble relief.  The  ship  passed  quite  near  us^,  but 
our  diabolical  captain  remained  obstinately  in 
his  cabin,  until  she  was  passed,  chuckling  to 
himself,  probably,  at  our  disappointment,  unless 
he  was  sjjim-miViy  unconscious. 

I  have  conceived  some  trifling  methods  to 
alleviate  a  little  of  the  discomfort  around  me, 
aside  from  general  helpfulness  and  hopefulness. 
Havino'  trained  mvself  to  drink  but  little,  —  no 
very  diiucult  matter,  —  I  am  able  to  lay  by  a 
great  part  of  my  allowance.  This  I  place  in 
bottles,  which  are  resting  quietly  under  my 
mattress.  Into  each,  as  I  fill  it,  I  drop  two  or 
three  nails,  or  a  bit  of  iron,  which  seems  to 
prove  a  wholesome  correction  to  the  turbid 
mass.  From  this  store  I  can  dispense,  quite 
frequently,  a  welcome  draught,  and  have  there- 
by become  no  small  favorite,  especially  with 
our  fat  friend,  Mrs.  Egan,  who  is  enormously 
and  incessantly  thirsty. 

In  default  of  a  better  antiscorbutic,  I  have 
likewise  contrived,  by  bottling  up  coffee 
grounds  and  boiled  lea  leaves,  to  produce   a 


80  A   PRACTICAL   JOKE. 

remarkably  clear  and  sharp  vinegar^  which  is 
keenly  relished  as  a  condiment. 

25th.  —  No  land  yet.  All  are  anxiously 
watching  for  it,  as  our  condition  is  worse  daily. 
Cooked  food  is  but  an  occasional  rarity,  and 
the  water  is  poor  enough.  Some  of  us  have 
prepared  dried  apples,  and  water  caught  on 
deck,  producing  a  miserable,  slimy  composition, 
forbidding  to  both  sight  and  taste  under  ordi- 
nary circumstances,  but  received  with  great 
avidity  by  many  now. 

Our  comfortless  and  dangerous  situation  has 
not  destroyed  all  our  jocularity  yet.  My  ro- 
guish companion,  Harry  Yates,  persuaded  old 
man  Perrin,  as  we  call  him,  an  honest,-  simple- 
hearted  countryman,  that  dried  apples,  cooked 
in  salt  water,  were  exceedingly  promotive  of 
health,  especially  at  sea. 

He  then  charitably  volunteered  to  prepare 
it  for  him,  and  soon  had  in  readiness  a  nau- 
seous dose,  which  he  administered  to  his  unsus- 
pecting victim,  who  swallowed  no  small  quan- 
tities before  he  was  undeceived,  while  we  were 
base  enough  to  consider  it  a  funny  operation. 


LAND    SEEN.  81 

27th.  —  Forty-eiglit  days  out.  At  two  this 
morning,  a  German  boy,  who  happened  to  be 
alone  on  the  bow,  saw  a  low  white  streak  at 
no  very  great  distance  before  him.  A  second 
look  sufficed  to  confirm  his  suspicions,  and  the 
shout  of  "  Land  ho ! "  resounded  throuo-h  the 

o 

vessel.  Instantaneously  the  deck  was  alive 
with  eager  gazers  at  the  coast,  which,  it  after- 
wards appeared,  was  between  Pernambuco  and 
Bahia. 

It  was  scarcely  a  mile  from  us,  and  the  ves- 
sel was  proceeding  rapidly  in  the  same  direc- 
tion. 

At  this  moment  the  captain  appeared,  and 
gave  orders  that  the  course  of  the  ship  be 
turned  as  quickly  as  possible.  This  quieted 
the  consternation  of  some  of  the  passengers 
who  were  sure  of  a  shipwreck,  but  scarcely 
served  to  cool  in  any  degree  the  ardor  of  that 
tumultuous  delight  which  the  welcome  sight 
of  land  produced  in  many  a  heart. 

Soon  we  were  sailing  through  water  of  a 
yellowish  color,  which  proved  to  be  the  mouth 
of  the  River  San  Francisco.  We  filled  our 
casks,  and  felt  an  unspeakable  relief  in  having 


82  NATIVE    BOATS, 

some  tiling  to  quench  our  burning  thirst.  Yie 
keep  near  as  possible  to  the  coast,  and  our  vis- 
ion, wearied  with  the  monotonous  ocean  view, 
finds  a  pleasing  change  in  the  blue  mountain 
ranges  in  the  distance,  a,nd  the  rich  green 
banks  that  skirt  the  shore. 

Poets  may  sit  down  in  their  quiet  homes, 
and  write  at  their  ease  of  the  sublimity  and 
grandeur  of  "  Old  Ocean,"  and  that  it  does  pre- 
sent these  aspects  I  do  not  deny ;  but  let  them 
float  upon  its  wide  waste  a  few  months,  and 
that  in  a  miserable  bark  like  ours,  and  I  ven- 
ture to  say  their  romance  would  give  way 
before  the  superior  charms  of  a  "  cottage  in  a 
shady  grove,"  where  life  and  nature  are  quiet 
and  peaceful,  unmingied  with  the  terrors  of  the 
briny  element. 

Soon  after  v\^e  came  within  sisrht  of  land,  we 
discovered  something  floating  in  the  distance, 
but  were  unable  to  make  out  what  they  were. 

On  approaching  nearer,  however,  we  found 
them  to  be  the  "  catam.arans  "  of  the  coast  na- 
tives, consisting  of  two  logs  of  fifteen  or  twenty 
feet  in  length,  and  perhaps  two  in  breadth, 
lashed  together  with  hide  or  bark,  and  crossed 


HABITS    OF    THE   NATIVES.  83 

in  tlie  middle  by  bars  of  wood  sustaining  a 
basket,  in  which  is  kept  fishing  tackle,  bait, 
and  probably  the  familj^  estate,  if  they  have 
any.  On  each  of  these  boats  were  two  natives 
at  least,  and  sometimes  whole  families,  includ- 
ing men,  women,  and  children.  With  these 
rude  constructions  they  often  go  considerable 
distances  to  sea,  especially  during  the  pleasant 
months,  floating  out  with  the  tide,  and  paddling 
about  to  meet  ships,  apparently  from  mere 
curiosity,  having  nothing  to  sell. 

Some  of  our  company  amused  themselves 
by  throwing  v-arious  things  overboard,  for  the 
purpose  of  seeing  the  Indians  dive  for  them. 
They  had  very  little  clothing,  none  of  them, 
probably,  ever  wearing  more  than  the  "  girdle 
about  the  loins." 

They  live  at  their  ease,  find  superabundant 
fruits  on  shore,  catch  fi.sh  when  they  desire, 
and  with  this  simple  and  plenteous  bill  of  fare, 
and  none  for  clothing,  lodging,  or  other  extras, 
the}^  live  a  life  free  from  anxiety  and  care. 

This  evening;  some  alarm  was  ag:ain  excited 
by  the  captain  saying  that  the  ship  was  going 
ashore  in  spite  of  all  he  could  do  to  the  con- 


84  THE   SHIP   IN   DANGER. 

trary.  The  chief  mate,  in  a  rage,  stepped  in 
front  of  his  commander,  telling  him,  if  it  was 
his  intention  to  run  them  ashore,  to  "  say  so," 
and  he  would  prepare  for  it.  No  notice  was 
taken  of  this  gross  act  of  insubordination,  and 
the  ship  was  soon  righted.  Many  of  us  cannot 
avoid  the  suspicion  that  the  captain  has  more 
than  once  deliberately  attempted  to  wreck  the 
ship. 


CHAPTER    y. 

LANDING  AT  BAHIA.  —  VISIT  OF  THE  CUSTOM-HOUSE 
OFFICER.  —  DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  CITY.  —  VISIT  INTO 
THE  COUNTRY.  —  ENGLISH  CHAPEL.  —  MARKET- 
PLACES. 

31st.  —  At  noon  to-day,  we  came  in  sight  of 
the  lighthouse  at  the  entrance  of  the  Bay  of 
All  Saints.  Nothing  could  exceed  the  joy  of 
the  passengers  upon  finding  themselves  so  near 
a  port.  The  whole  vessel  was  in  commotion, 
hearty  cheers  ascending  from  different  compa- 
nies, and  every  one  almost  wild  with  pleasura- 
ble excitement.  The  scenery  on  the  coast 
seemed  rather  rusrared  at  first,  but  as  we  came 
nearer,  it  grew  picturesque  and  romantic  in 
the  extreme.  Hills  and  valleys,  shaded  with 
tropical  foliage,  and  feathered  with  cocoa-nut 
and  palm,  refreshed  our  sight,  while  here  and 
there  we  could  discover  a  cottage  embowered 
in  trees,  whose  quiet  inmates  we  imagined  a 

g  (85) 


86      ARRIVAL  AT  THE  PORT  OF  BAHIA. 

happy  people  while  dwelling  securely  under 
their  own  vines  and  fig  trees. 

At  3,  P.  M.,  we  doubled  the  cape,  and 
glided  into  full  view  of  the  old  Brazilian  city 
of  San  Salvador,  now  called  Bahia,  which  lay 
before  us,  a  "  thing  of  beauty,"  to  our  longing 
eyes.  It  is  built  on  rising  ground,  commencing 
w^ith  the  business  streets  near  the  shore,  and 
extending  in  rows  of  dwellings,  gardens,  groves, 
and  shrubbery,  to  the  bold  brows  of  the  bluffs 
above,  upon  whose  summits  we  could  see  con- 
vents and  cathedrals,  hotels  and  large  mansions 
of  more  modern  style. 

Yfe  dropped  anchor  at  4  o'clock,  at  a  point 
in  front  of  the  city,  commanding  a  full  view  of 
it,  also  of  the  bay,  but  were  not  permitted  to 
land,  by  the  custom-house  officer  who  came  on 
board,  until  morning. 

As  the  shades  of  evening  drew  about  us,  and 
the  solemn  music  of  the  convent  bells  floated 
out  to  us  over  the  water,  we  settled  into  a  calm 
and  quiet  mood,  feeling  more  at  peace  with 
the  world,  and  with  each  other,  than  for  a  long 
time  before. 

We  have  now  accomplished  one  third  of  our 


POSITION    OF    THE    SHIP.  87 

long  voyage,  having  reached  Bahia,  counted 
from  fifteen  to  twenty-five  da3^s'  sail  from  Xew 
York,  in  little  less  than  the  sixty  days  in  which  it 
was  pretended  the  whole  would  be  completed. 
"We  have,  however,  endured  so  much  wretched- 
ness, that  without  adverting  to  this  delay,  we 
find  abundant  cause  for  gratitude  and  delight 
that  we  are  in  port  at  all. 

It  is  only  through  divine  interposition  that 
we  have  been  repeatedly  saved  from  death  by 
shipwreck  and  thirst.  Our  provisions,  too,  have 
been  fast  wasting,  and  our  goods  buried  in  the 
deep  long  ago ;  lightening  the  ill-stowed  and 
poorly-ballasted  ship,  so  much  and  so  unevenly 
that  we  have  come  into  port  at  Bahia  down 
by  the  stern,  in  such  a  manner  that  vre  can  dip 
our  handkerchiefs  into  the  water  from  over  the 
larboard  rail. 

For  a  week  or  two  it  has  been  impossible 
to  walk  about  the  deck  when  wet  at  all,  such 
was  its  ano:le  of  inclination ;  thus  making^  our 
situation  one  of  extreme  dano:er,  had  w^e  been 
caught  in  a  heavy  blow.  Columbus  and  his 
crew  scarcely  felt  more  joy  at  the  sight  of 
land,  than  we,  poor  fellows,  at  beholding  these 
cliffs  before  us. 


88  THE    CREW    ASHORE. 

Friday,  April  1st.  —  The  captain  found  him- 
self in  trouble  at  once,  at  the  custom  house, 
for  having  too  many  passengers  on  his  list, 
and  only  escaped  penalty  by  the  help  of  Con- 
sul Oilman.  Some  one  must  have  informed 
this  officer  of  the  suspicions  and  charges  pre- 
ferred against  the  chief  mate,  for  this  morning 
he  gave  him  liberty  to  leave  the  vessel,  but 
none  to  come  back. 

About  nine,  the  announcement  was  made 
by  the  consul  that  we  might  go  on  shore,  and 
accordingly  preparations  were  made  to  that 
effect. 

Upon  landing  we  found  a  few  white  men ; 
some  English  and  French,  who  solicited  the 
honor  of  our  patronage  for  different  hotels; 
but  so  o-reat  was  our   delio-ht    at   treadino^  a 

O  DO 

portion  of  this  mundane  earth,  that  the  blue 
sky  above,  and  the  green  carpet  underneath, 
seemed  well  ni^h  sufficient  for  man's  wants. 

Almost  all  in  the  streets,  however,  were  ne- 
groes ;  many  of  them  laden  with  flowers  and 
fruits  of  the  choicest  varieties,  indescribably 
tempting  to  us,  after  our  long  confinement  to 
salt  and  miserable  food. 


AN    EXCELLENT    DINNER.  89 

We  spent  the  morning  in  rambling  about 
the  city,  with  no  special  object  but  to  see 
whatever  was  to  be  seen.  Very  little  break- 
fast was  eaten  on  board  ship,  the  proximity  of 
the  shore  destroying  what  little  appetite  re- 
mained for  wormy  bread  and  mahogany  beef 
The  wants  of  the  "inner  man"  began  to 
be  somewhat  clamorous,  as  my  comrade  and 
myself  neared  a  respectable-looking,  neatly- 
arranged  French  restaurant.  "Come,  Harry," 
said  I,  "  we'll  have  one  good  dinner  if  it  takes 
all  we've  got."  We  entered,  and,  for  the  first 
time  after  leaving  New  York,  enjoyed  a  well- 
cooked  and  savory  meal. 

The  table  was  well  set  and  the  bill  of  fare 
excellent, — including  soup,  beef,  poultry,  sweet 
potatoes,  yams,  onions,  okra,  very  good  French 
rolls,  claret,  and  a  very  fair  native  wine. 

There  was  also  a  great  variety  of  fruit  for 
dessert,  among  which  was  the  blood-red,  seed- 
less orange,  which  I  tasted  for  the  first  time, 
and  compared  with  which  the  best  oranges  in 
our  northern  cities  are  mere  cider  apples. 

The  conclusion  of  the  matter  was  a  bill  of 
three  milreas,  or  nearly  two  dollars  for  both, 

8* 


90  BAY    OF   ALL    SAINTS. 

which  we  paid  without  grumbhng,  and  resumed 
our  stroll. 

The  Bay  of  All  Saints  is  one  of  the  noblest 
harbors  in  the  world ;  a  magnificent  sheet  of 
w^ater  of  an  irregular  circle,  forty  miles  in 
length,  and  nearly  the  same  in  width,  affording 
sheltered  anchorage  suflftcient,  it  would  almost 
seem,  for  all  the  ships  in  the  Avorld.  It  com- 
municates with  the  sea  by  a  narrow  passage, 
two  miles  in  length,  scarcely  one  in  width, 
through  which  we  passed. 

Bahia  is  a  name  given  to  a  maritime  prov- 
ince of  Brazil,  on  the  eastern  coast,  extending 
from  about  9^  to  15^  45'  south  latitude.  The 
estimate  of  its  area  varies  with  different  indi- 
viduals, some  placing  it  at  fifty-four  thousand 
square  miles,  and  others  at  ninety-seven  thou- 
sand ;  the  latter,  however,  mostly  credited. 

Statements  v/ith  regard  to  population  also 
differ;  probably  amounts  to  about  seven  hun- 
dred thousand.  Bays  and  inlets  abound  along 
the  coast,  among  the  most  celebrated  of  which 
is  All-Saints  Bay.  Numerous  rivers  traverse 
the    province;    the    Rio    San    Francisco,    the 


STAPLE    PRODUCTS.  91 

largest,  or  one  of  the  largest,  of  the  Brazilian 
rivers,  jQiowing  along  its  north-west  frontier. 

The  cultivation  of  tobacco  is  peculiar  to  the 
province,  and  its  produce  much  sought  after, 
not  only  for  the  market  of  Portugal,  but  also 
for  Spain  and  the  whole  of  Barbary. 

The  soil  is  also  admirably  adapted  to  the 
cultivation  of  the  sug;ar  cane  ;  and  the  suo;ar 
of  this  province  is  considered  of  superior  qual- 
ity —  a  circumstance  finding  sufficient  proof 
in  the  fact  that  Bahia  alone  exports  more  of 
this  article  than  all  the  rest  of  Brazil. 

An  annual  increase  of  the  cotton  growth 
shows  Bahia  to  be  fast  becoming  a  formidable 
rival  to  Pernambuco.  Rice  of  a  fine  quality 
is  among  her  productions,  and  coffee,  much 
excelled,  however,  by  that  of  Rio  de  Janeiro. 

This  province  was  one  of  the  first  peopled 
by  Europeans,  and  it  is  also  one  of  those,  it  is 
said,  from  which  they  have  most  effectually 
removed  all  traces  of  the  original  inhab- 
itants. 

Bahia,  or  San  Salvador,  where  we  now  are, 
is  the  capital  of  the  above  province,  situated 
immediately  within  Cape    St.  Antonio,   which 


92  POPULATION. 

forms  the  right  or  east  side  of  this  noble  Bay 
of  All  Saints. 

It  was  founded  about  1549  by  Thomas  de 
Souza,  first  captain-general  of  Brazil,  and  was 
until  1763  the  capital  of  the  colony.  Since 
that  period  Kio  has  been  acknowledged  as  the 
capital. 

It  is  one  of  the  largest  and  most  important 
cities  of  South  America,  though  inferior  to  its 
rival  in  population  and  commercial  importance. 

Its  population  is  estimated  from  120,000 
to  160,000,  of  which  a  third  are  supposed  to 
be  whites,  the  same  number  mulattoes,  and 
the  remainder  blacks. 

It  is  built  partly  along  the  ridge,  and  partly 
on  the  declivity  of  a  very  high  and  steep  hill, 
fronting  the  entrance  of  the  bay ;  and  in  the 
number  and  beauty  of  its  public  buildings, 
ranks  among  the  first  cities  of  Brazil. 

Among  the  most  noticeable  is  the  cathedral, 
once  the  church  of  the  Jesuits,  dedicated  to 
San  Salvador,  and  considered  the  handsomest 
ecclesiastical  building  in  the  country.  It  is 
built  of  European  marble  ;  its  interior  richly 
decorated,  containing   two   portraits  —  one   of 


PUBLIC    BUILDINGS.  9 


Q 


Ignatius  Loyola  and  San  Francois  Xavier — 
which  are  regarded  as  rare  specimens  of  art. 

The  theater  is  built  upon  a  rock,  more  than 
a  thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea ; 
but  as  the  slope  northward,  toward  the  sub- 
urbs, is  quite  gradual,  and  a  greater  part  of 
those  who  patronize  the  theater  come  from 
thence,  the  inconvenience  is  not  great.  In- 
deed, most  of  the  largest  and  finest  buildings 
are  upon  high  points  quite  difficult  of  access. 

In  the  lower  part  of  the  town  is  the  Ex- 
change, a  massive  building  of  modern  date, 
built  in  a  peculiar  style,  an  attempted  imita- 
tion of  the  Grecian.  The  houses  are  mostly 
built  of  stone,  and  contrary  to  the  usual  prac- 
tice in  South  America,  many  consist  of  three, 
four,  and  even  ^Ye  stories.  The  principal 
street  is  the  Praya,  in  which  is  situated  the 
Church  of  the  Conception,  remarkable  on  ac- 
count of  the  stones  which  compose  its  struc- 
ture having  been  prepared  and  numbered  in 
Europe,  and  brought  in  two  frigates ;  so  that 
upon  their  arrival  they  had  merely  to  be 
arranged  in  the  order  previously  allotted  to 
them. 


94  MODES    OF   TRAVELING. 

A  2^i-^1^lic  library  is  shown  of  some  sixty 
thousand  or  seventy  thousand  volumes^  among 
which  are  a  few  ancient  Portuguese  w^orks, 
and  some  manuscripts ;  but  the  grea^ter  por- 
tion are  in  French. 

As  a  city,  how^ever,  it  can  boast  of  very  few 
institutions  devoted  to  intellectual  culture,  and 
these  are  under  the  control  of  bigoted  eccle- 
siastics, who  care  little,  and  do  less,  for  the 
advancem^ent  of  educational  systems. 

Bahia  is  a  place  long  celebrated  for  its  ship 
building.  As  late  as  1824,  some  of  the  finest 
ships  that  graced  the  seas  were  built  at  this 
port. 

The  modes  of  travelins:  strike  one  as  novel 
and  peculiar,  the  vehicle,  being  a  sort  of  palan- 
quin, supported  by  negroes,  w^ho  make  a  prac- 
tice of  clustering!;  about  the  corners  of  the 
streets,  with  the  hope  of  having  their  services 
called  in  requisition  in  that  direction.  In  car- 
rying people  from  one  part  of  the  city  to 
another,  the  "  silla  "  is  in  general  use  ;  which  is 
nothing  more  than  a  stout  wooden  chair, 
strapped  to  the  shoulders  of  a  man,  in  w^iich 
one  seats  himself,  and  is  transported  whither- 


OPPORTUNE   KINDNESS.  95 

soever  lie  will,  provided  suitable  inducements 
are  offered. 

Weary  of  wandering  when  night  began  to 
think  of  unfolding  her  mantle,  and  feeling 
some  solicitude  as  to  a  resting  place  for  the 
hours  of  darkness,  I  turned  boldly  to  the 
best  hotel  in  the  citv,  where  I  found  several 
of  the  ship's  company,  and  among  them  Mr.- 
Payson.  While  lounging  about  in  a  hesitating 
manner,  he  asked  what  lodgings  I  had  secured, 
and  upon  my  replying,  "  none,"  he  invited  mie 
to  remain,  and  he  would  be  responsible  for  my 
bills.  I  was  truly  grateful,  and  thanked  him 
most  sincerely,  thinking  it  a  rich  reward  for 
small  acts  of  kindness  done  to  a  sick  ship's 
officer. 

Yerily,— 

"  A  little  word  mildly  spoken, 
A  little  deed  kindly  done," 

insures  its  own  rich  fund  of  blessing. 

April  7th.  —  Some  of  our  company  engaged 
a  boarding  place  in  the  country  for  the  time 
of  our  stay  in  port,  necessarily  having  an  eye 
to  economy,  and  also  for  the  purpose  of  avoid- 
ing the  unhealthy  exposures  of  the  city. 


96  ELEGANT  COUNTRY  SEATS. 

Comfortably  settled  in  their  new  abode,  our 
little  comj^any  were  invited  to  visit  them. 
Mules  are  often  used  in  traveling,  especially  by 
the  wealthier  classes,  who  have  heavy  carriages 
drawn  by  six  or  eight  of  these  animals ;  but 
preferring  a  cheaper  and  less  showy  equipage, 
we  availed  ourselves  of  our  own  powers  of 
locomotion  by  starting  on  foot. 

We  left  the  city  by  the  western  road,  and 
followed  the  shores  of  the  bay  for  a  mile,  en- 
joying the  surf,  and  the  vast  cabinet  of  shells, 
arranged  after  Nature's  own  model.  We 
passed  the  residences  of  many  of  the  wealthy 
people  of  the  city,  who  seemed  to  be  living  in 
luxurious  splendor  in  their  fashionable  retire- 
ment. 

Many  of  the  finest  were  in  process  of  reno- 
vation, their  mosaic  walks  of  shell  work  being 
laid  in  cement ;  and  marble  vases,  variegated 
stone  flower  pots,  statuary,  &c.,  being  refitted 
or  replaced  by  new ;  which,  with  correspond- 
ing interior  decorations,  would  make  palaces 
worthy  of  kings. 

We  journeyed  at  leisure  over  gently  undu- 
lating hills,  past  fields  of  sugar  cane,  and  shady 


td 
> 

I— i 

1— I 

> 

O 

o 

> 


BEAUTIFUL    SCENERY.  97 

groves  of  plantain  and  cocoa  nut ;  fairly  rev- 
eling in  the  heavy  perfume  from  fruit  and 
flowers^  wafted  to  us  on  the  morning  breeze 
from  over  the  bay. 

Suddenly  emerging  from  a  thicket,  we  came 
in  full  view  of  a  ridge,  upon  whose  summit 
stood  a  long  row  of  one-story,  white  buildings, 
the  country  seat  of  our  fellow-voyagers.  Their 
special  home  was  a  neat,  airy  cottage,  snugly 
planted  in  a  grove  of  orange  and  lemon  trees. 

The  scene  was  one  of  great  magnificence. 
The  front  view  afforded  a  near  glance  of  the 
city ;  of  rich  and  smiling  valleys ;  while  in  the 
further  distance  was  the  vast  expanse  of  the 
beautiful  bay. 

The  slope  in  the  rear  was  laid  out  in  fine 
gardens,  stretching  down  to  the  valley,  inter- 
sected by  winding  paths,  ornamented  with 
shells  and  stones  of  various  colors,  inlaid  with 
innimierable  devices,  and  these  still  farther 
embellished  with  statuary,  urns,  and  flower 
vases.  Farther  down  were  the  little  hamlets 
of  the  natives ;  and  here  and  there  a  fruit  or- 
chard, cocoa  grove,  or  vegetable  garden. 

The  little  fleet  of  ships  in  port  were  motion- 

9 


98  ENCOURAGEMENT   TO    AGRICULTURISTS. 

less,  with  furled  sails,  with  the  exception  of 
one  or  two  gliding  on  their  course  before  a 
light  breeze. 

Still  discernible  in  the  distance  was  the 
small  steamer,  that  had  left  Bahia  for  the  pur- 
pose of  conveying  to  their  chosen  location  a 
company  of  Massachusetts  farmers,  who  have 
been  induced  to  come  to  this  country  with 
their  wives,  children,  flocks,  herds,  and  imple- 
ments, with  the  professed  object  of  introducing 
agricultural  improvements. 

The  Brazilian  government,  it  seems,  not  only 
gives  land,  but  money,  to  those  w^ho  will  enlist 
in  this  enterprise  of  native  cultivation. 

This  party,  we  are  told,  receive  quite  a  hand- 
some salary,  both  men  and  women,  the  latter 
being  requested  to  establish  a  dairy,  if  possible. 

Perhaps  it  w^as  the  knowledge  of  this  dele- 
gation that  suggested  the  idea  to  some  of  our 
number  of  abandoning  the  voyage  to  Austra- 
lia, and  seeking  employment  in  the  diamond 
mines  of  Brazil. 

The  insane  project,  however,  proved  a  fail- 
ure, fortunately  for  them  ;  for,  even  supposing 
government  would  have   permitted   them   to 


PLEASANT    EXTERTAIXMENT.  99 

enter  those  remote  and  guarded  realms,  and 
they  had  not  perished  in  the  vast  ^yilderness 
on  the  way,  there  would  only  have  remained 
the  splendid  contingency  of  freedom,  a  cheap 
suit  of  clothes,  and  a  few  dollars,  if  they  should 
be  successful  in  finding  a  stone  of  so  many 
carats. 

But  to  return  from  this  digression  to  the 
description  of  our  visit ;  we  sat  a  long  time  in 
front,  lost  in  the  beauty  of  the  glorious  land- 
scape, before  we  were  aroused  by  summons  to 
partake  of  refreshments  on  the  other  side  of 
the  house. 

Eepairing  to  the  spot,  we  found  a  table 
spread  in  the  shade,  decorated  with  flowers, 
and  filled  with  oranges,  cocoa  nuts,  guavas, 
dates,  figs,  bananas,  mangoes,  bread,  water, 
wine,  dried  fruits,  coffee,  and  cigars. 

Completely  embowered  in  roses,  oleanders, 
and  geraniums ;  shaded  by  the  rich  foliage  of 
the  tropical  trees;  waited  on  by  a  bevy  of 
neatly-dressed  brown  girls,  we  sat  long  at  the 
feast,  as  at  one  seldom  to  be  enjoyed.  After  a 
short  siesta  of  two  hours,  we  awoke  to  take  a 
stroll  through  the  grounds.    Our  agreeable  host, 


100  ATTENDING    CHURCH. 

it  appeared,  had  arranged  a  dance  and  picnic 
under  the  trees  by  moonlight.  Guests  from 
neighboring  plantations  began  to  arrive  at 
nine,  and  at  ten  the  musicians  struck  up 
a  lively  air,  that  set  the  pretty  seiioritas  to 
dancing  in  earnest.  The  guitar  seems  to  be 
their  favorite  instrument,  and  its  low,  sweet 
tones  w^ere  particularly  pleasing  at  this  time. 

The  faint  light  of  morning  was  visible  when 
the  company  dispersed ;  and  thus  ended  a  day 
and  night  which  many  hardships  and  present 
pleasures  conspired  to  render  so  full  of  pleas- 
ure, that  then  and  now  it  were  more  like  an 
enchanted  dream  than  a  thing  of  reality. 

11th.  —  Yesterday,  some  of  us  attended 
divine  service  for  the  first  time  since  leaving 
New  York.  Wishing  to  make  a  respectable 
appearance,  and  having  no  other  decent  gar- 
ments, we  arrayed  ourselves  in  the  heavy 
woolen  suits  in  which  we  started  from  home 
in  the  middle  of  winter,  but  found  our  coats 
quite  too  cumbersome  before  we  had  proceed- 
ed far. 

Our  way  led  us  by  the  Park,  situated  on  the 


POLICEMEN.  101 

bluff,  commanding  a  beautiful  prospect  of  the 
bay  and  the  business  streets  of  the  city.  As 
we  looked  in,  and  saw  the  ground  strewed  with 
ripe  oranges,  seats  arranged  most  invitingly 
under  the  trees,  we  felt  inclined  to  take  ad- 
vantage of  our  early  start,  in  the  quiet  enjoy- 
ment of  the  scene. 

The  day  w^as  oppressively  hot,  even  for 
Bahia.  We  seated  ourselves  in  as  comfortable 
a  posture  as  possible,  divesting  ourselves  of 
hats,  shoes,  &c. ;  but  scarcely  had  we  finished 
our  arrangements,  ere  one  of  the  numerous 
half  soldier,  half  policemen,  —  who  swarm 
about  the  city  with  hot-looking  uniforms  of 
black,  red,  and  green,  bearing  sword  and  mus- 
ket,—  presented  himself,  discharging  a  lot  of 
Brazilian  Portuguese,  among  which  was  dis- 
tinguishable, "  Bay  a  !  hay  a  !  Vamos  !  vamos  ! 
Malo  !  malo  ! "  signifying,  in  general,  that  we 
were  violating  their  laws,  and  must  depart. 

Some  were  ready  to  go,  and  others,  unwill- 
ing, pretended  not  to  understand. 

"  Baya !  haya  I  Vamos  I "  repeated  the  officer, 
pointing  to  the  gate.  Finding  them  still  in- 
corrigible, he   hailed   a  brother   official,   who 

9=^ 


102  VICTORIA    SQUARE. 

came  up  in  an  ireful,  threatening  manner, 
inspiring  the  feehng  that  it  were  better  to 
leave,  since  we  could  not  afford  to  offer  bribes, 
and  the  stern  virtue  of  the  policemen  is  blind 
and  deaf  to  every  thing  else. 

From  the  Park,  a  handsome,  straight  street 
leads  more  than  a  mile  back  to  Victoria  Square. 
Both  the  street  and  the  square  are  lined  with 
fine  houses,  to  which  are  attached  large  and 
magnificent  gardens,  belonging  to  English  and 
foreign  residents,  of  whom  there  are  two  hun- 
dred and  more,  mostly  engaged  in  commercial 
houses  and  the  shipping  business. 

The  English  Chapel,  newly  erected  by  the 
British  government,  is  a  small,  modest  building, 
in  the  square,  almost  lost  sight  of  in  the  dense 
foliage  of  the  trees  which  surround  it.  We 
entered  its  courts  gladly,  and  joined  in  the 
responses  of  the  service  with  great  satisfac- 
tion. Long  deprivation  prepared  us  to  appre- 
ciate the  sensible  discourse  of  the  clergyman — 
a  man  of  middle  size,  with  kindly  expression, 
pleasing  manners,  who  preached  from  the  text, 
^  And  he  did  it  not  from  the  fear  of  God." 

K.,   a   smart   young   fellow,  whom  we    call 


YELLOW-FEVER    DELUSION.  103 

the  ^^  ship's  lawyer/'  complamed  of  his  head 
on  his  way  to  the  chapel.  He  continued  to 
grow  worse,  and  on  our  return  to  the  hotel 
wished  me  to  call  a  physician  immediately,  as 
he  was  quite  confident  he  had  the  yellow 
fever,  and  should  survive  but  a  short  time. 
Reason  evidently  was  tottering,  and  I  sought 
medical  advice,  but  received  only  the  informa- 
tion that  it  was  a  sunstroke,  and  by  gratifying 
his  whims  he  might  soon  be  better.  This 
made  no  difference  with  K.,  who  surely  tliought 
it  his  last  sickness.  He  gave  me  his  watch, 
with  the  request  that  I  should  give  it  to  his 
father  whenever  I  should  reach  the  United 
States,  made  disposition  of  his  remaining  ef- 
fects, and  with  a  serious  and  resigned  coun- 
tenance, said,  "  Now  I  am  ready ;  the  fever 
will  take  me  away  soon."  He  retained  his 
delusion  for  some  time,  constantly  imploring  to 
be  carried  to  the  hospital,  that  he  might  die. 

Such  was  his  earnestness,  we  w^ent  through 
the  usual  forms  of  application,  taking  care, 
however,  that  the  actual  result  should  not  be 
secured."  This  has  proved  a  sad  disappoint- 
ment to  the  sufferer,  but  we  have  thought  it 


104  DAILY    EMPLOYiMEA'TS. 

best,  and  shall  do  all  we  can  for  his  comfort 
ourselves.     No  improvement  manifest  to-day. 

14th.  —  ^Ye  spend  our  days  at  Bahia,  in 
rambling  about ;  sometimes  along  the  bay  to 
the  westward ;  sometimes  over  the  north  point 
of  the  harbor  and  up  the  sea  coast,  and  again 
through  the  churches  and  public  buildings  of 
the  city. 

In  case  we  should  feel  disinclined  to  return 
at  evening,  we  provide  ourselves  with  lunch, 
expecting  to  find  a  luxurious  dessert  in  the 
tropical  fruits  which  we  take  from  the  ground 
as  abundantly  and  innocently  as  we  should 
walnuts  and  chestnuts  in  West  Hartford  woods ; 
wdiile  for  lodging  we  seek  entrance  into  some 
Indian  hut.  Usually,  however,  the  hotel  is 
the  place  of  rendezvous  for  the  night,  where  I 
sleep  soundly  on  the  floor,  with  two  newspa- 
pers for  my  mattress,  and  lizards  for  my  at- 
tendants. 

One  who  does  not  see  the  market  place 
does  not  see  the  half  of  Bahia.  A  new  and 
spacious  edifice  of  stone  is  being  erected  for 
the  accommodation  of  this  portion  of  the  public, 


"^^S!>CESJa;ji«"'!.:ic:-':<''aiii»&'is, 


THE    MARKET    PLACE.  105 

but  it  is  little  advanced ;  and  in  tlie  mean 
while  the  area  of  the  square  is  thickly  covered 
with  wooden  sheds,  irregularly  set,  in  which 
the  venders  appear — a  numerous  and  motley 
company  of  negro  slaves,  free  blacks,  and  na- 
tive Brazilians,  of  every  shade  of  black  and 
brown,  offering  every  conceivable  thing ;  not 
only  meats,  but  every  variety  of  flowers,  fruit, 
and  vegetables;  dry  goods,  groceries,  hard- 
ware ;  in  short,  every  sort  of  commodity  pro- 
curable in  the  city,  except,  perhaps,  some  fine 
cloths.  \Ye  find  inexhaustible  amusement  in 
examining  the  varieties  of  country  produce ; 
watching  the  strings  of  mules  and  donkeys 
that  bring  it  in ;  having  thus  a  fine  oppor- 
tunity to  study  the  manners  and  national 
peculiarities  of  the  people. 

Most  of  us  young  fellows  have  struck  up  a 
sort  of  trade  acquaintance  with  one  and  an- 
other of  the  more  comely  brown  girls  at  the 
fruit  stands.  They  have  acquired  from  cus- 
tomers a  few  English  words,  which  they  use 
promiscuously,  spicing  freely  with  a  jovial 
M'lil  style  of  African  laughter.  As  they  jDcr- 
ceive  us  coming,  each  jumps   at   her   special 


106  FEMALE    DRESS. 

customer,  seizes  him  unceremoniously  by  the 
arm, jokes  away  her  competitors;  never  releas- 
ing her  hold  imtil  all  her  English  and  his 
Portuguese  are  exhausted,  and  a  dump  or  two 
is  invested  in  her  special  commodities. 

By  far  the  most  striking  of  the  market 
women  are  the  pure  negroes,  some  of  whom 
are  native  Africans,  still  bearing  the  charac- 
teristics of  their  tribe. 

The  Brazilian  negroes  almost  seem  like 
caricatures  of  their  brethren  in  the  United 
States,  so  much  more  exuberant  are  they  in 
spirits,  and  in  extravagant  and  fantastic  cos- 
tumes. 

For  dress  patterns,  the  ladies  of  the  market 
usually  select  furniture  calico,  with  large  red 
and  yellow  figures ;  adorn  them  with  flounces, 
edgings  of  coarse  lace  a  foot  in  width,  or 
some  of  those  styles  of  heavy  ball  or  tassel 
frino^e  wdiich  we  use  for  curtains. 

The  head  dress  is  a  gaudy  Madras  handker- 
chief, when  the  hair  is  not  carded  out  and 
arranged  with  flowers. 

We  have  actually  seen  the  last  painful 
operation  performed  with  leather  and  wooden 


A    SABLE    BEAUTY.  107 

cards,  not  unlike  those  used  at  home,  mstead 
of  cunycombs,  on  less  sensitive  animals. 

My  own  especial  favorite  and  great  admira- 
tion is  a  sable  Amazon,  weighing  at  least  three 
hundred  pounds  —  a  fat  and  expansive  crea- 
ture, almost  as  black  and  shiny  as  patent  leather ; 
with  a  round  face,  almost  as  radiant,  in  spite 
of  its  color,  as  a  full  moon  ;  clear,  white  eyes, 
with  large  jetty  pupils,  that  may  have  broken 
many  an  Ethiopian  heart ;  a  mouth  filled  with 
pearly  teeth ;  and,  withal,  so  invariably  and 
joyously  smiling,  that  she  was  j)Ositively  de- 
lightful in  conversation. 

She  dresses  in  the  hio'ht  of  fashion  —  usu- 
ally  in  a  dress  of  white,  bordered  with  a  heavy 
flounce,  trimmed  with  gay  flowers  and  vari- 
ouslv-colored  ribbons,  and  an  enormous  calla 
and  japonica  in  her  hair. 

She  sits  upon  her  throne,  evidently,  with  as 
much  satisfaction  as  the  proudest  empress,  in 
her  coronet  of  jewels ;  rejoicing  in  the  gor- 
geous display  of  flowers  and  fruit  around  her  ; 
receiving  patronage  from  many  merely  for  the 
sake  of  gazing  at  her  gigantic  ebony  pro- 
portions. 


108  A    COMPLIMENT. 

The  inhabitants,  whether  Indians,  negroes,  or 
Europeans,  have  invariably  treated  us  with  ex- 
treme politeness  and  great  hospitality.  The 
policemen  often  hail  us  when  returning  to  the 
city  in  the  evening ;  but  a  little  explanation  in 
English,  ending  with  amigo,  always  suffices  to 
give  us  undisturbed  passage. 

We  were  soon  recocrnized  as  law-abidino; 
persons ;  but  it  is  true,  if  wx  did  not  fear  their 
unscrupulous  perquisitions  of  all  sorts  of  bun- 
dles and  parcels,  we  should  carry  more  private 
stores  of  fruit  with  us  than  we  shall  now  dare 
to  do. 

Among  the  class  of  boatmen  is  John,  a 
smart,  good-natured  negro,  whom  Ave  have 
often  employed,  and  whose  heart  we  have 
occasionallj^  rejoiced  by  giving  him  a  dime  in- 
stead of  the  usual  fare  —  a  dump,  which  is  a 
copper  coin,  about  the  size  of  an  English  penny. 
His  gratitude  always  finds  expression  in  a  form 
of  acknowledgment  learned  of  the  English  sail- 
ors, ignorant  of  its  application,  and  therefore 
more  sincere  than  complimentary,  we  think; 
viz.,  "  You  one  fine  d— d  fool."  So  much  for 
the  tendency  of  human  nature  to  acquire  that 
which  is  evil. 


•\rj 


CHAPTER   YI. 

ROMANCE  OF  A  WALK  IN  THE  TROPICAL  REGION.-— 
DIFFICULTIES  IN  LEAVING  PORT.  —  HISTORY  OF  BRA- 
ZIL.—  NARROW   ESCAPE   FROM   FIRE. 

The  beauty  and  luxuriance  of  tropical  vege- 
tation can  scarcely  be  conceived  by  those  ac- 
customed to  the  comparatively  sterile  regions 
of  the  temperate  zone.  The  dense  foliage  of 
the  trees,  the  almost  impenetrable  forests,  are 
rather  more  agreeable  in  the  prospect,  however, 
than  while  testing  their  convenience  by  actual 
experiment.  In  order  to  give  the  reader  a 
faint  idea  of  these  things,  I  sketch  a  descrip- 
tion of  a  walk,  before  proceeding  to  the  next 
date  on  record,  w^hich  m}^  companion  and  my- 
self proposed,  with  the  intention  of  making  a 
circuit  through  the  woods,  coming  out  some 
distance  inland,  upon  the  shore  of  the  bay. 
After  lea^dng  the  marble-walled  or  iron-railed 
enclosures  of  the  great  suburban  gardens,  the 
country  is,  to  a  good  extent,  of  apparently 

10  (109) 


110  A    TROPICAL   FOREST. 

primeval  forest,  altogether  without  fences,  yet 
dotted  here  and  there,  at  long  intervals,  with  a 
sugar  plantation,  or  Indian  village,  with  the  ac- 
companying orchards  and  gardens.  Mere  foot 
paths  are  winding  about,  not  so  wide  or  distinct 
as  those  which  usually  intersect  the  woods  of 
New  England,  sometimes  leading  someiuhere,  but 
oftener  nowhere.  We  started  long  before  sun- 
rise, and  plunged  into  the  depths  of  the  forest, 
pursuing  our  devious  and  intricate  way  through 
such  paths  as  these,  worn  only  by  human  feet. 
On  and  still  on  we  went,  looking  with  wonder 
at  the  enormous  trees,  from  which  drooped 
equally  large  vines,  all  of  wdiich  w^ere  twined 
and  intertwined  with  masses  of  flowers ;  re- 
galed at  the  same  time  with  the  sw^eet,  melo- 
dious notes  of  innumerable  birds,  the  better  to 
represent  which,  were  I  a  naturalist,  and  de- 
sirous of  celebrity,  I  should  probably  define, 
with  a  list  of  certain  unpronounceable  names, 
that  would  look  very  scientific,  to  say  the  least. 
These  heavy  vines  seemed  to  extend  miles 
in  succession,  actually  adorning  whole  forests 
with  festoons  of  flowers ;  realizing  the  most 
extravagant  pictures  of  romance,  provided  we 


DIFFICULT    TRAVELING.  Ill 

say   nothing   of    the    lizards,   and    chattering 
monkeys  that  glided  and  leaped  about  us. 

The  air  was  thick  with  the  almost  suffocat- 
ing perfumes  of  flowers,  and  alive  with  the 
hum  of  numberless  insects,  so  that,  in  the 
intoxication  of  our  senses,  we  lost  our  way. 
Hoping  to  reach  the  bay  at  some  familiar 
point,  we  went  forward,  pushing  our  way  with 
difficulty  through  shrubs,  vines,  and  broad 
leaves  ;  often  obliged  to  make  a  road  with  our 
pocket  knives  ;  our  Yankee  blood  telling  hand- 
somely in  our  favor  the  while.  Finding  it  an 
utterly  fruitless  attempt  to  beat  a  path  upon 
the  ground,  we  walked,  or  rather  scrambled, 
over  a  sort  of  '^  airy  "  course,  formed  by  stems, 
vines,  and  flowers,  coming  nearer  than  ever 
before  to  the  fanciful  period  of  life  —  "a  path 
with  roses  strewed."  We  at  last  succeeded  in 
forcing  our  way  down  a  steep  hill,  over  half  a 
mile  of  swamp,  which  stretched  across  the 
valley,  and  reached  an  open  space  on  the 
opposite  side.  We  regretted  our  hard-fought 
passage  on  one  account,  as  it  compelled  us  to 
drop  many  curious  flowers,  and  rare  specimens 
of  vegetation,  retaining  only  a  few  seeds,  and 


112  KUINED    MANSION. 

some  pods  of  wild  cotton^  apparently  of  supe- 
rior quality. 

Feeling  now  quite  at  ease  by  a  knowledge 
of  our  relation  to  the  points  of  compass,  we 
made  a  hearty  meal  of  bread  and  dried  fruit ; 
after  which  we  enjoyed  a  most  refreshing 
siesta  under  the  shadow  of  the  broad  plantain. 

Awaked  from  this^,  w^e  pursued  our  journey 
over  the  hill,  coming  quickly  upon  a  deserted 
j^lantation,  whose  dilapidated  walls  spoke  con- 
vincingly of  the  withering  touch  of  Father 
Time.  This  we  imas-ined  to  have  been  the 
residence  of  some  wealthy  family  during  the 
palmy  days  of  San  Salvador.  Such,  indeed, 
Vv  ere  the  indications  —  as  ruined  statuary,  mar- 
ble fountains,  and  bathing  places :  relics  of 
elaborate  carving  and  massive  stone-work,  wxre 
still  visible. 

A  few  families  of  natives  were  living  about, 
possibly  the  descendants  of  the  former  slaves 
of  the  establishment ;  the  proprietor  having 
been  compelled  by  misfortune,  or  political 
change,  to  flee  from  his  charming  home. 

These  poor  people,  nevertheless,  represented 
well   the  ancient  hospitalities  of  the  domain, 


TROUBLE   ABOUT   THE   SHIP.  113 

treated  us  with  even  ceremonious  politeness^ 
and  when  we  wished  to  depart,  kindly  showed 
us  a  path  to  the  city,  which  we  were  glad  to 
avail  ourselves  of,  being  weary  with  the  day's 
adventure,  though  prosecuted  in  the  midst  of 
objects  of  singular  beauty  and  attractiveness. 

We  enjoyed  keenly  this  delightful  land,  with 
scarcely  a  thought  either  for  the  past  or  the 
future,  notwithstanding  the  web  of  troubles 
and  fatahties  woven  about  our  "  beautiful  clip- 
per "  were  as  tangled  as  ever,  as  will  be  seen 
by  date  of  twenty-first  April,  twenty-one  days 
after  our  arrival  at  Bahia. 

No  steps  being  taken  to  prepare  for  the  con- 
tinuation of  the  voyage,  and  being  generally 
agreed  that  it  should  not  be  broken  up  if  possi- 
ble, a  meeting  of  the  passengers  has  been  called, 
at  which  they  considered  the  matter  of  using 
the  Peytona  as  the  private  property  of  the 
passengers  until  our  safe  arrival  in  Australia, 
and  full  reimbursement  of  all  expenses  in- 
curred on  the  ship's  account.  A  committee 
was  appointed  to  represent  the  state  of  the 
ship  to  the  consul,  Mr.  Oilman,  who  answered 
that   his   strict   legal   duty  was   to   send   the 

10* 


114  THE   consul's   advice. 

Peytona  back  to  New  York,  for  the  violation  of 
passenger  laws,  and  irregular  papers.  This,  they 
gave  him  to  understand,  was  scarcely  practica- 
ble, as  they  were  fixed  in  their  determination 
to  proceed,  though  they  should  work  the  vessel 
themselves.  Upon  this  the  consul  advised  the 
captain  to  advertise  for  the  requisite  means,  as 
this  is  the  plea,  which  he  accordingly  did  ;  and 
some  gentlemen  were  found  who  were  dis- 
posed to  negotiate  in  the  matter,  but  found,  on 
inquiry,  that  no  responsible  owner  appeared, 
which  put  an  end  to  the  plan  at  once. 

A  second  effort  was  made  by  the  captain,  in 
which  he  proposed  to  the  passengers  to  raise 
the  sum  of  fifteen  hundred  dollars,  as  the 
responsibility  of  getting  out  from  port  rested 
upon  them ;  but  they  only  gave  what  Rev.  Mr. 
Abbott  says  must  be  given  to  all  street  beg- 
gars — "  frowns  and  flat  denials."  The  money 
might  as  well  be  thrown  into  the  sea. 

In  this  uncertain  condition  sickness  has  be- 
gun to  manifest  itself,  which  has  finally  as- 
sumed the  fearful  type  of  yellow  fever,  aided 
probably  by  the  free  use  of  tropical  fruits,  and 
manner  of  living. 


YELLOW   FEVER.  115 

Park,  a  stalwart  man,  forty  years  of  age,  has 
died  on  board.  He  lay  neglected  upon  the 
deck  nearly  a  week  previous  to  his  death,  and 
although  at  the  time  fifty  persons  w^ere  within 
twenty  yards  of  him,  no  one  knew  when  the 
'-  King  of  Terrors  "  came.  Such  is  the  apathy 
and  indifference  to  each  other's  welfare  into 
which  the  passengers  have  fallen,  though,  doubt- 
less, fear  of  infection  influenced  more  or  less. 

Fowler,  the  blaspheming  Yermonter,  who 
prayed  so  vehemently  in  our  first  gale,  was 
taken  the  same  evening,  and  died  soon  after. 
A  Polish  count,  one  of  our  foreign  shipmates, 
has  also  fallen  a  victim. 

With  such  danger  in  our  midst,  the  ship's 
debt  daily  increasing,  and  the  chances  of  leav- 
ing port  diminishing  in  the  same  ratio,  a  last 
and  more  energetic  effort  has  been  made  to 
raise  the  money ;  for  bills  must  be  paid,  as  the 
authorities  are  strict  in  preventing  the  depart- 
ure of  any  vessel  in  debt.  A  statement  of 
grievances  was  made,  concluding  with  a  re- 
quest that  the  ship  might  be  fitted  out  and 
sent  to  sea,  and  the  same  put  into  the  hands  of 
the  consul.     He  seemed  anxious  to  aid  us,  but 


116  AT   SEA   AGAIN. 

could  do  nothing  till  bills  were  met.  Accord- 
ingl}^,  fifteen  hundred  dollars  were  obtained  in 
contributions  of  from  five  to  two  hundred  dol- 
lars, some  having  sold  their  watches  and  other 
valuables  for  the  purpose  of  obtaining  the 
desired  amount,  and  the  whole  appropriated 
by  Mr.  Gilman  to  the  cancellation  of  the  ship's 
demands.  This  has  so  incensed  the  captain 
that  he  came  on  board  threatening  never  to 
leave  port  unless  three  thousand  dollars  were 
raised  and  placed  at  his  own  disposal. 

No  notice  was  taken  of  his  senseless  threats, 
but  of  course  it  causes  detention,  and  many  of 
us  are  beginning  to  feel  that  our  present  mode 
of  life  is  not  altogether  the  thing,  however 
pleasant  it  may  be. 

29th.  —  After  various  hinderances  we  are 
once  more  at  sea,  having  been  on  board  some 
time,  with  the  daily  hope  and  expectation  of 
leaving  port.  We  weighed  anchor  in  the 
morning,  but  the  afternoon  only  afforded  us 
sufficient  breeze  to  make  any  progress.  For  a 
time  matters  appeared  dubious  indeed.  As  a 
British  sloop  of  war,  with  her  schooner  consort, 


A    HAPPY    RIDDANCE.  117 

was  seeking  to  intercept  our  course,  for  the 
obvious  reason  that  we  had  a  deserter  from 
each.  Upon  nearing  us  they  signified  their 
desire  to  search  the  ship,  and  were  given  full 
permission  by  our  commander,  who  gravely 
asserted  no  such  men  were  on  board,  though 
at  the  very  hour  he  knew  perfectly  well  the 
place  of  their  secretion.  After  some  little 
hesitation  they  turned  their  course,  leaving  us 
to  pursue  our  quiet  way.  And  now  that  we 
are  fairly  out,  and  are  rid  of  some  of  our  worst 
characters,  we  have  hopes  of  completing  our 
voyage  in  comparative  comfort.  Eleven  of 
our  original  company  are  left  behind,  among 
whom  are  the  chief  mate,  our  thievish  steward, 
Prince  Paul,  and  several  others,  who  await  a 
fairer  opportunity  of  prosecuting  their  voyage. 

Grant  is  our  first  mate,  and  "  Big  George," 
our  first  volunteer,  the  second. 

We  have  water,  and  a  considerable  stock  of 
fresh  provisions,  which  the  consul  and  com- 
mittee together  put  on  board,  and  made  the 
captain  acknowledge  as  bought  for  the  vessel, 
before  they  were  paid  for.  Many,  like  myself, 
have  private  stores  of  fruit,  and  such  miscel- 


118  VIGILANCE    COMMITTEE. 

laneous  articles  as  our  means  would  enable  us 
to  procure  at  Babia, 

oOtb.  —  Eougb  weatber.  Tbe  captain  is  evi- 
dently trying  to  make  bimself  agreeable ;  in- 
stituting inquiries  in  different  parts  of  tbe  sbip 
wbetber  all  are  comfortable ;  if  any  tiling  is  want- 
ing, or  wrong ;  but  we,  wbo  bave  endured  so  mucb 
in  tbe  past,  are  little  inclined  to  cordiality. 

A  magazine  bas  been  discovered  below,  well 
stored  witb  fire-arms  and  various  sorts  of  am- 
munition ;  knowledge  of  wbicb  bas  called  out 
a  vigilance  committee,  composed  of  tbe  same 
men  wbo  bave  bitberto  been  tbe  most  promi- 
nent in  all  organized  action,  and  are  supported 
by  tbe  most  intelligent  and  reliable  of  tbe  pas- 
sengers. Some  one  or  more  of  tbese  are  on 
deck,  nigbt  and  day,  watcbing  tbe  condition 
and  progress  of  tbings  in  general,  and  ready 
to  rally  assistance  at  once,  in  case  of  an  out- 
break. In  order  to  prevent  tbeft,  it  bas  like- 
wise been  enacted  tbat  tbieves,  wben  detected, 
sball  be  posted  upon  tbe  mizzenmast. 

One  of  our  deserters,  it  appears,  is  a  ^^  ser- 
geant of  marines"  from  tbe  Englisb  sloop  of 


A    DESERTER.  119 

war,  and  tlie  other  a  sailor  from  the  schooner ; 
both  strong,  large  men,  and,  withal,  smart. 
The  former  came  on  board  through  the  influ- 
ence of  one  of  our  men,  whom  he  met  in  the 
city;  it  being  considered  a  point  of  honor 
with  a  common  sailor  to  help  on  a  deserter. 
The  latter,  however,  had  more  to  encounter. 
He  quietly  let  himself  down  from  the  schooner, 
with  his  clothes  attached,  in  a  parcel,  with  the 
intention  of  swimming  to  the  ship,  a  distance 
of  two  miles  and  a  half — a  feat  he  would 
have  j)erformed  had  he  not  forgotten  the  ebb 
tide  in  his  calculations,  which  carried  him  in  a 
different  direction  from  that  he  desired. 

He  shouted  so  loudly,  he  was  heard,  taken 
up,  and  brought  on  board  the  Peytona,  at  his 
own  request,  and  is  now  at  work  with  the  men 
in  the  forecastle,  it  being  the  usual  practice  to 
dispose  of  them  thus  in  such  cases.  The  ser- 
geant is  a  waiter  in  the  first  cabin. 

May  1st.  —  I  avail  myself  of  the  first  oppor- 
tunity to  consider  the  history  of  Brazil  in 
general,  giving  its  most  important  features,  as 
I  obtained  them  from  authentic  sources.     Noth- 


120  DESCRIPTION    OF    BRAZIL. 

ing  awakens  a  deeper  interest  in  a  country 
than  having  visited  it.  Accounts  of  travelers 
then  become  invested  with  special  interest, 
since  comparisons  are  instituted,  and  the  truth 
tested  by  actual  knowledge.  Such  is  my  inter- 
est in  the  Brazilian  empire,  though  personally 
acquainted  with  only  a  portion  of  it.  This 
vast  tract,  second  only  in  extent  to  the  great 
empires  of  China  and  Russia,  stretches  along 
about  two  thirds  of  the  east  coast  of  South 
America,  while  its  superficial  area  occuj)ies 
nearly  half  its  whole  extent.  The  country 
formerly  included  under  the  name  of  Brazil 
appears  to  have  been  much  more  limited  in 
extent ;  but  the  Portuguese,  ambitious  of  new 
acquisitions,  have  continually  added  to  their 
possessions,  which  have  been  confirmed  to 
them,  from  time  to  time,  by  treaties  with  Spain. 

About  two  thirds  of  the  country  is  high 
land  and  mountains ;  the  hio:hest  rano-e  of 
which  traverses  the  center,  and  is  of  an  alti- 
tude of  six  thousand  feet. 

The  coast  range,  or  Serra  do  Mar,  is  by  far 
the  most  picturesque  of  the  Brazilian  chains, 
approaching  in  some   parts  within  sixteen  or 


SOIL   A^'D    CLIMATE.  121 

eigrhteen  miles  of  the  sea,  while  in  others  it 
sweeps  inkncl  to  a  distance  of  one  hundred 
and  twenty  to  one  hundred  and  forty  miles. 

The  soil  near  the  coast  displays  evidences 
of  the  richest  cultivation,  teeming  with  abun- 
dance of  the  choicest  productions.  The  an- 
cient forests,  which  have  been  noticed,  whose 
giant  trees,  and  countless  plants  and  shrubs, 
so  thickly  interwoven  as  almost  to  defy  the 
attempts  of  man  to  force  a  passage,  sufficiently 
attest  the  great  fertility  of  the  soil  on  which 
they  grow. 

But  the  soil  as  well  as  the  climate  exhibits 
different  phases  in  different  parts  of  the  coun- 
try, being  modified,  in  a  great  measure,  by 
certain  natural  conditions.  The  seasons  may 
very  properly  be  styled  '-  the  wet  and  the 
dry,"  though  some  divide  them  into  four;  the 
spring  commencing  in  September,  the  sum- 
mer in  December,  the  autumn  in  March,  and 
the  winter  in  June. 

Langsdorff,  the  former  Russian  consul  at 
Eio,  remarking  upon  the  seasons  of  Brazil, 
says,  "  Winter,  in  this  country,  resembles  sum- 
mer in  the  north  of  Europe  ;  summer  appears 

11 


122  DIAMOND    MINES. 

one  continuous  spring,  while  spring  and  au- 
tumn are  unconsciously  lost  in  winter  and 
summer."  It  may  therefore  be  said  of  this 
country^  with  more  propriety  than  of  any 
other^  that  — 

"  Stern  winter  smiles  on  this  auspicious  clime ; 
The  fields  are  florid  in  eternal  prime  ; 
From  the  bleak  pole  no  winds  inclement  blow, 
Mold  the  round  hail,  or  flake  the  fleecy  snow ; 
But  from  the  breezy  deep  the  groves  inhale 
The  fragrant  murmurs  of  the  eastern  gale." 

The  most  celebrated,  though  not  the  most 
important,  of  the  natural  productions,  are  dia- 
monds; the  most  noted  mine  being  that  of 
Serra  do  Frio.  This  district  is  surrounded  by 
almost  inaccessible  rocks,  and  was  formerly 
guarded  with  so  much  vigilance  that  not  even 
the  governor  of  the  province  had  the  liberty 
of  entering  it  without  the  special  permission  of 
the  director  of  the  mines. 

The  mines  are  usually  wrought  during  the 
hot  season,  at  a  time  when  the  beds  of  the 
rivers  and  torrents  are  dry,  and  the  diamond 
sand  can  be  easily  extracted.  The  operation 
of  washing  is  deferred  till  the  wet  season,  and 
is   performed  in  the  open  air,  or   frequently 


GOLD    MLXES.  123 

under  sheds  where  the  action  of  the  sun  is  least 
likely  to  injure  the  health  of  those  concerned. 
It  is  said  to  be  a  rare  thing  that  one  discovers 
more  than  two  or  three  diamonds  of  seven- 
teen or  twenty  carats  weight  in  the  course 
of  a  year,  and  one  may  labor  tw^ice  that 
period  without  finding  one  of  thirty  carats 
W'eiiJ:ht. 

Down  to  the  date  of  1771  the  right  of  work- 
ing the  mines  was  farmed  out,  but  since  that 
time  the  government  have  taken  it  into  their 
own  hands,  and  they  are  all  under  the  superin- 
tendence of  a  board.  The  crown  receive  one 
fifth  of  the  total  value. 

Gold  also  exists,  though  the  greater  portion 
of  the  supposed  mines  remain  untouched. 
The  most  celebrated  is  that  of  Cono-o  Loco, 
situated  in  a  beautiful  valley,  at  the  distance 
of  some  forty  leagues  from  Yillarica.  Bethen- 
court,  a  Portuguese,  w^as  the  first  person  who 
commenced  working  these  mines  wuth  his  own 
hands,  in  1740,  and  soon  amassed  a  splendid 
fortune.  His  descendants  disposed  of  them, 
and  finally  they  came  into  the  possession  of  a 
company  of  Enghshmen,  know^n  as  the  "  Anglo- 


124  PRODUCTS    OF   BRAZIL. 

Brazilian  Mining  Company/'  for  ten  thousand 
pounds  sterling. 

The  eagerness  of  all  classes  to  engage  in 
mining  pursuits,  proved  a  great  obstacle  to  the 
imj)i'ovement  of  the  country,  for  a  long  time. 
This  rage  having  subsided  in  a  great  measure, 
the  energies  of  the  people  have  been  directed 
to  the  safer  and  infinitely  more  productive  oc- 
cupations of  the  soil,  so  that  the  value  of  gold 
and  diamonds  is  quite  inconsiderable  now,  com- 
pared with  that  of  various  other  articles. 

Sugar  and  coffee  are  the  staple  products  of 
the  countr}^,  and  the  culture  of  these  has  in- 
creased with  wonderful  rapidity;  and  such  is 
the  facility  for  commercial  intercourse,  that  the 
development  of  her  resources  may  be  con- 
stantly and  powerfully  accelerated.  Perhaps 
no  country  is  more  favored  by  nature,  as  re- 
gards the  requisites  for  carrying  on  an  exten- 
sive commerce,  than  Brazil. 

All  its  principal  cities  are  on  the  coast :  its 
harbors  are  among  the  finest  in  the  world,  and 
are  connected  with  the  interior  by  many  large 
rivers,  most  of  which  are  navigable  for  a  con- 
siderable way  inland. 


EDUCATION,   RELIGIOX,    COMMERCE.  125 

One  lamentable  feature  in  the  history  of  the 
country  is  a  great  want  of  schools,  there  being 
no  means  bv  which  even  the  children  of  the 
middle  classes  can  acquire  any  thing  like  a 
really  useful  education. 

It  was  not  until  1808  that  a  printing  press 
was  introduced,  and  a  newspaper  established. 
Several  publications  are  now  issued,  but,  as 
may  be  supposed,  literature  has  few  charms, 
and  is  likely  to  find  but  little  improvement 
among  such  a  people. 

The  established  relis^ion  is  the  Eoman  Catho- 
lie  \  all  other  religions,  hovrever,  being  tol- 
erated. 

Considering  the  period  during  which  Brazil 
has  been  colonized,  its  vast  extent  and  fertility, 
the  variety  of  its  productions,  and  its  favorable 
situation  for  commerce,  its  progress  in  the 
accumulation  of  wealth  and  population  has 
been  very  slow.  Many  circumstances  combine 
to  bring  about  such  a  result ;  such  as,  "  the 
principles  by  which  it  was  governed  by  the 
mother  country ;  the  oppressive  restrictions 
laid  on  the  trade  and  industry  of  the  col- 
onists, and,  more  than  all  the  rest,  the  igno- 

11* 


126  A   WARNING. 

ranee  of  the  Portuguese,  and  their  inferiority, 
in  respect  to  science  and  art,  to  most  other 
nations  of  Europe. 

A  brig4iter  day  is  already  dawning,  and  the 
future  may  yet  witness  more  rapid  strides  in 
civilization  than  has  yet  been  seen  in  the 
history  of  any  other  people. 

12th.  —  A  young  man,  twenty-three  years 
of  age,  died  to-day  of  deUrium  tremens.  He  was 
an  active,  healthy  fellow  on  leaving  New 
York,  but  indulged  freely  in  the  intoxicating 
beverage  on  the  way  out,  and  during  his  stay 
at  Bahia.  Soon  after  we  set  sail,  he  was 
haunted  night  and  day  by  the  fiendish  sights 
and  sounds  of  his  disease,  and  his  terrific 
groans  filled  the  ship.  Last  evening  seemed 
to  bring  an  abatement  of  the  delirium,  and  he 
appeared  on  deck,  very  weak,  and  fully  con- 
scious that  he  was  dying — a  conviction  which 
brought  him  under  the  influence  of  rational 
but  even  more  appalHng  fears.  He  warned 
all  about  him  to  beware  of  a  similar  course, 
and  left  this  world  entreatino;  us,  with  his  last 
breath,  to  pray  for  him.     This  dreadful  death, 


A   WET   BERTH.  127 

and  the  solemnity  of  our  first  ocean  burial, 
evidently  produces  a  profound  impression  ;  but 
I  fear  it  will  prove  transient,  and  the  memory 
of  the  dead  and  his  misery  be  effaced,  without 
any  transforming  power  upon  those  who  so 
much  need  to  feel  it. 

June  1st.  —  Weather  warm  and  calm.  The 
main  object  of  the  passengers  seems  to  be  to 
pass  away  time  as  comfortably  as  possible,  and 
for  this  purpose  the  most  shady  places  are 
selected,  and  retained  not  onl}^  during  the  day, 
but  till  day  dawns  again.  A  sudden  shower, 
during  the  night,  occasionally  causes  great 
commotion.  Most  of  those  on  deck  follow 
their  first  impulse  and  rush  to  the  companion 
way  to  escape  a  drenching,  for  a  shower  in  the 
tropics  is  a  genuine  "opening  of  the  flood- 
gates." Some  cool  and  deliberate  individuals, 
however,  like  mv  friend  Harman,  remain  un- 
moved  through  it  all.  "While  trying  to  per- 
suade him  to  leave  his  watery  bed  for  one 
more  desirable  in  the  cabin,  he  o^ave  a  fiint 
groan,  and  without  opening  his  eyes,  replied, 
"  0,  don't  disturb  me,  if  you  please,  I'm  so  com- 


128  EFFECTS    OF    MOONLIGHT. 

Four  months  ago,  notliiiig  but  the  softest 
bed  would  have  sufficed  for  him  ;  now  he  can 
take  special  comfort  on  a  board,  in  a  heavy  rain 
storm.  So  much  for  the  jDOwer  of  adaptation 
to  circumstances. 

There  is  a  wonderful  fascination  in  sailino- 
upon  the  ocean,  before  a  gentle  breeze,  by  the 
clear  moonlight.  But  beautiful  as  are  the  rays 
of  Luna,  it  is  nevertheless  dangerous  to  gaze 
upon  them  unveiled,  in  the  tropics.  Some  of 
us  paid  no  attention  to  the  w\arnings  of  the 
old  sailors,  and  slept  on  deck  with  face  and 
eyes  exposed,  but  have  been  visited,  in  conse- 
quence, with  swollen  faces  and  sore  eyes,  ac- 
companied with  singular  nervous  irritation, 
and  involuntary  twitching  of  the  muscles  —  a 
state  of  things  j)roduced,  as  our  oracles  say,  by 
being  "  frost-bitten  by  the  moon." 

So  are  some  of  the  keenest  delights  of  this 
sublunary  sphere  mingled  with  almost  death- 
fraught  evils ;  reminding  us  of  the  folly  of 
placing  hopes  of  happiness  on  any  of  the  un- 
true things  this  side  heaven. 


2d.  —  Tliis  morning  had  a  long  call  from  a 


OBSTINACY    OF    THE    CAPTAIN.  129 

great  right  whale,  ahnost  as  long  as  the  ship. 
It  phiyed  about  us  in  the  most  friendly  man- 
ner,  apparently  under  the  impression  that  we 
were  another  whale,  and  our  acc|uaintance 
desirable.  Had  we  been  the  fortunate  owners 
of  a  harpoon,  we  might  have  unpleasantly  un- 
deceived him. 

No  signs  of  land  yet,  although  thirty-five 
days  out  from  Bahia;  the  average  voyage 
from  this  latter  port  to  Cape  Town  being  only 
twenty-eight  days.  None  seem  to  know  where 
we  are. 

The  captain  keeps  all  in  ignorance  with 
respect  to  longitude.  He  has  been  navigating* 
in  the  most  perverse  manner,  actually  havinp- 
steered  days  at  a  time  north,  south,  east,  and 
west,  and  every  possible  intermediate  course, 
since  leaving  Brazil,  as  if  sailing  all  over  the 
Atlantic  to  find  the  cape. 

Frivolous  reasons  are  sometimes  given  for 
such  conduct,  and  sometimes  none  at  all. 
Many  are  confident  of  an  intention  to  wreck 
us  on  the  coast  of  South  America,  wdth  an  eye 
to  securing  the  insurance  of  fourteen  thousand 
dollars  upon  the  ship. 


130  KARllOW   ESCAPE. 

The  captain  has  issued  rejDeated  threats  of 
late  that  he  will  destroy  us  in  some  way  or 
other,  even  intimating  an  intention  to  set  fire 
to  the  magazine.  This  aggravated  outrage  is 
doubtless  occasioned  by  our  having  forced  him, 
as  we  did,  to  leave  Baliia. 

11th.  —  This  morning,  as  we  were  running 
eastward  at  the  rate  of  eight  miles  an  hour,  in 
the  midst  of  a  dense  fog,  we  were  startled  by 
the  cry  of  "Land  ho!  Directly  ahead."  As 
the  mist  was  dissipated  before  the  rising  sun, 
the  rocky  coast  of  Africa  loomed  up  a  few 
miles  before  us.  The  ship  was  immediately 
put  about  to  the  south-west,  and  thus  we  were 
again  rescued  from  imminent  peril ;  or,  as  I 
believe,  from  a  diabolical  scheme  against  the 
ship  and  all  within  her. 

For  several  hours  stumps  of  trees  and  green 
branches  floated  by  us  on  the  water,  indicating 
we  were  off  the  mouth  of  some  river,  probably 
the  Orange.  While  indulging  in  the  anticipa- 
tions of  seeing  land,  a  cry  of  "  Fire  !  —  the 
ship  is  all  on  fire  in  the  hold ! "  resounded 
through   the    ship,  which  was   followed   by  a 


THE    SHIP    ON    FIKE.  131 

general  rush  for  the  upper  deck.  In  order  to 
preserve  room  for  action,  those  above  had 
removed  the  ladder,  which  increased  the  fright 
to  a  perfect  frenzy,  inasmuch  as  a  column  of 
flame  came  leaping  up  at  the  instant,  fiUing 
the  whole  hatchway.  Mysteriously  to  myself 
I  gained  the  deck,  in  season  to  hear  "Big 
George,"  our  second  mate,  exclaim,  in  a  com- 
manding voice,  "  Do  as  I  tell  you,  and  I'll  save 
your  lives." 

The  calm  self-possession  of  the  man,  in  such 
an  emergency,  instantly  secured  him  the  im- 
plicit obedience  of  all.  Busy  hands  were 
speedily  at  work  passing  water,  with  all  the 
rapidity  that  mortal  fear  could  insj^ire ;  but 
nearly  an  hour  elapsed  before  the  flames  were 
sufficiently  subdued  to  think  of  descending. 

At  the  end  of  that  time  the  bold  mate  went 
down  amid  the  black  smoke  and  charred 
freight,  creeping  about  in  the  confined  hold 
am.ong  the  cinders,  suffocating  atmosphere,  and 
struo-G-line:  fire,  distributins^  here  and  there 
buckets  of  water  that  vrere  passed  to  him, 
until  every  vestige  of  a  spark  disappeared. 

Anson  Carrington,  the  steward,  also  merits 


132  ORIGIN    OF   THE    FirxE. 

particular  credit  for  his  intrepidity,  in  saving 
us  from  danger  at  this  fearful  crisis.  In  the 
midst  of  the  tumult  the  cry  was  heard,  "  The 
fire  will  reach  the  magazine ! "  While  others 
seemed  paralyzed,  he  darted  to  the  dangerous 
spot,  and  in  several  attempts,  succeeded  in 
depositing  the  ammunition  in  a  place  of  com- 
parative safety  on  a  distant  part  of  the  deck. 

It  was  long  before  quiet  was  restored,  but 
with  it  came  many  speculations  as  to  the  origin 
of  the  fire.  A  searching  investigation  was 
held,  resultino*  in  the  revelation  that  one  of 
the  ship's  boys  had  been  in  the  practice  of 
stealing  through  the  place  with  a  lamp,  for  the 
purpose  of  obtaining  some  liquor ;  and  being 
frightened,  had  dropped  it,  and  thereby  occa- 
sioned our  distress.  As  a  sort  of  penalty,  he 
has  been  confined  ;  but  the  jolly  songs  that  he 
sings  is  proof  that  his  imprisonment  is  any 
thing  but  irksome  to  him.  There  is  indignant 
talk,  but  the  seamen  are  under  no  control,  and 
we  dare  not  meddle  with  them,  neither  the 
captain  nor  mates ;  and  the  only  practicable 
course  seems  to  be,  to  keep  on  the  right  side 
of  them;  if  possible,  and  get  along  as  easily  as 


OUR    U^THANKFDLNESS.  133 

we  can.  Our  escape  is  even  more  wonderful 
than  our  j)reservation  from  shipwreck.  Had 
the  liquor  casks  taken  fire^  no  human  power 
could  have  saved  the  ship,  and  scarcely,  by  any 
possibility,  the  lives  ;  having  but  two  boats,  and 
those  in  a  miserable  condition. 

The  ship,  which  was  headed  toward  the  land 
at  the  first  alarm,  has  once  more  been  laid  on 
her  course ;  and  the  confusion  of  weeping  and 
congratulation,  wonder  and  inquiry,  has  suc- 
ceeded to  the  agonizing  screams  of  the  two 
hours  passed  on  the  confines  of  a  fearful 
death. 

This  is  another  signal  interposition  of  Prov- 
idence in  our  favor,  yet  no  one  says  any  thing 
of  thankfulness  for  our  deliverance.  The  many 
vicissitudes  we  have  experienced,  the  hardships 
and  dano;ers  encountered,  so  far  from  inciting!; 
us  to  right  action,  have,  as  it  were,  crusted  our 
minds  with  a  sort  of  insensibility  to  all  consid- 
erations except  those  of  the  present  moment. 
Memory,  gratitude,  and  hope  have  alike  grown 
dim  with  us  all. 

12 


CHAPTER   YII. 

A   LUNAR   BOW.  —  TERRIFIC  STORM.  —  LANDING  AT  CAPE 

TOWN. RAMBLES  ABOUT  THE  CITY. IMPRISONMENT 

OF   THE    CAPTAIN.  VISIT    TO     SEYOLA,    THE    KAFFIR 

CHIEF.  —  A   PRAYER   MEETING   ON   SHIPBOARD. 

15th.  —  A  calm,  clear,  and  beautiful  day. 
Early  this  morning  R.  F.,  of  New  York,  a 
young  man  of  twenty-six,  came  to  his  death  by 
disease  caused  by  dissipation  at  Bahia.  He  was 
a  merry,  lively  fellow,  with  a  smile  and  a  joke 
for  every  one ;  and  his  early,  unhappy  death 
has  thrown  a  shade  of  melancholy  over  every 
body.  After  breakfast,  all  assembled  to  pay 
the  last  tribute  of  respect  to  his  mortal  remains, 
and  witness  his  burial  in  the  great  cemetery  of 
the  deep  —  the  mighty  ocean.  The  usual  ser- 
vice was  read,  and  the  corpse,  w^ith  a  fearful 
plunge,  sank  into  the  sea,  there  to  rest  till  the 
archangel's  trump  shall  awake  the  sleeping 
millions  and  call  them  to  judgment. 

(134) 


SCARCITY    OF   PROVISIONS.  135 

17th.  —  Passengers  are  disposed  to  put  into 
Cape  Town,  and  a  petition  has  been  drawn  up 
and  presented  to  the  captain  with  this  request, 
at  least  that  it  might  be  done  for  provisions 
and  water,  as  we  are  again  placed  on  a  quart 
allowance,  and  that  so  slimy  it  is  scarcely  en- 
durable. ^Ye  have  food  of  no  description  suf- 
ficient to  last  the  voyage  through,  especially 
at  present  rates  of  sailing ;  for  we  have  already 
been  from  Bahia  lono;  enoug^h  to  have  reached 
Australia  under  ordinary  circumstances. 

Many  felt  like  saying,  "  We  must  and  will 
go  to  Cape  Town,  and  are  prepared,  if  neces- 
sary, to  rise  and  take  the  ship,  and  carry  it 
through  ourselves."  The  captain  objects  for 
no  apparent  reason  but  to  indulge  his  ca- 
pricious and  reckless  temper. 

How  can  we  expect  any  thing  but  ruin  with 
such  a  captain,  an  insubordinate  crew,  and  all 
the  dangers  which  rum  can  possibly  cause, 
staring  us  in  the  face  ? 

22d.  — At  eleven,  A.  M.,  the  joyful  cry  of 
"  land  "  was  again  heard.  It  was  Table  Moun- 
tain, the  three  distinct  summits  of  which  are 


136  A.  NEW   DANGER. 

visible  in  clear  weather  at  a  distance  of  forty 
miles.  The  heavy  fog  only  permitted  us  an 
occasional  glimpse^  though  we  were  much 
nearer  than  this  •  yet  it  was  sufficient  to  cause 
much  excitement.  While  beating  about^  a 
small  coasting  sloop  hailed  us,  with  the  infor- 
mation that  we  were  nearing  an  extensive 
reef,  and,  of  course,  in  new  and  close  proximity 
to  danger.  After  considerable  solicitation,  the 
captain  was  prevailed  upon  to  take  one  of  her 
men  on  board  as  pilot,  though  it  was  a  sullen 
consent.  Left  to  ourselves  we  should  have 
probably  been  dashed  to  pieces  in  one  half 
hour  more,  on  the  horn  of  a  reef  across  which 
our  course  would  have  taken  us.  As  it  was, 
we  quickly  made  the  mouth  of  the  harbor,  or 
rather  roadstead,  for  Cape  Town  is  one  of  the 
most  dangerous  places  for  anchorage,  called  a 
harbor,  in  the  whole  world.  Not  being  safe  to 
run  in  this  evening  we  shall  lay  off  until 
morning,  eagerly  wishing  for  the  wasting  of 
the  lao;o;ino;  hours. 

23d.  —  A  most  magnificent  and  striking  ap- 
pearance was  visible  in  the  heavens  last  night, 


^ 


APPEARANCE    OF    THE   HEAVENS.  137 

upon  which  we  gazed  wdth  mteiise  interest  — 
a  species  of  lunar  boAV.  The  sky  was  full  of 
small,  detached  clouds  of  a  threatening  and 
watery  aspect.  The  moon  herself  was  not 
visible,  her  place  being  known  only  as  the 
center  of  a  circular  area  of  colored  light.  This 
was  bounded  by  a  large  and  broad  ring  of  rich 
and  strongly-defined  prismatic  colors,  the  space 
w^ithin  which  was  filled  with  an  indescribably 
gorgeous  display  of  mingled  and  endlessly- 
shifting  masses  of  the  same  color,  varying  and 
blending  like  the  forms  in  a  gigantic  kaleido- 
scope, yet  with  a  steady  motion,  instead  of  the 
precipitate  changes  of  that  instrument.  Even 
far  without  the  ring,  the  sullen  faces  of  the 
clouds  were  flecked  and  tinged  with  the  same 
bright  hues. 

There  were  evidently  two  distinct  strata  of 
these  "  cirri^'  and  they  were  racing  in  opposite 
directions.  The  partial  openings  and  inter- 
lacings  of  these  two  across  the  broad,  pale  disk 
of  light  in  the  moon's  place,  formed  a  strange 
and  startling  play,  taking  to  themselves  vari- 
ous intricate  combinations,  like  the  wheels 
within  Vvdieels  one  sometimes  sees  in  brilliant 

12* 


138  A   DANGEROUS    EXPERIMENT. 

j&reworks.     It  was  altogether  a  rich  and  rare 
spectacle. 

This  morning  we  had  a  heavy  gale  and  high 
sea,  making  it  dangerous  to  be  in  the  harbor, 
though  anchored.  We  were  utterly  weary  with 
the  sea,  and  were  all  desirous  of  running  in, 
even  at  the  risk  of  our  lives,  hoping  we  might 
be  fortunate  enough  to  plant  our  feet  once 
more  upon  land.  The  pilot,  a  weather-beaten 
old  Dutchman,  thought  it  a  matter  of  doubt  if 
we  were  able  to  land,  but  if  we  said  so,  he 
would  try.  We  said  so — he  put  her  before  the 
wind,  and  at  a  terrific  rate  we  surged  along 
upon  the  immense  seas,  under  close-reefed  top- 
sails, passed  the  long  line  of  breakers  by  the 
Lion's  Rump,  and  dropped  anchor  abreast  of 
the  town.  In  less  than  two  hours  the  cus- 
tom-house officers  and  the  consul,  George  S. 
Holmes,  Esq.,  came  on  board  in  a  boat.  We 
were  told  we  had  performed  a  most  presump- 
tuous and  hazardous  experiment ;  that  we  had 
been  watched  from  Telegraph  Hill,  with  the 
most  intense  anxiety,  in  the  momentary  expec- 
tation that  we  should  be  swamped,  or  dashed 
to  pieces  upon  the  rocks.     In  a  little  time,  not- 


CAPE    TOWN.  139 

withstanding  the  heavy  sea,  a  majority  of  the 
passengers  went  on  shore,  —  preferring  the 
dangerous  risk  of  landing,  and  a  bath  in  the 
surf,  rather  than  to  wait  on  board  a  day  or  two 
longer.  On  landing,  our  eyes  were  greeted 
with  the  sigjht  of  a  familiar  thino^ — the  schooner 
Euphrasia,  of  New  York,  bound  for  Australia, 
which  we  had  left  at  Bahia,  but  was  now  in 
the  harbor  before  us. 

29th.  —  Our  first  inclination  upon  landing  at 
Cape  Town  was  to  ramble  about  the  place,  and 
feast  our  eyes  with  such  land  luxuries  as  we 
could  find.  ^Ye  found  the  town  to  be  res^u- 
larly  laid  out,  containing  several  good  squares ; 
broad  and  straight  streets,  crossing  each  other 
at  right  angles,  many  of  them  watered  by 
canals,  planted  on  either  side  with  trees,  in  the 
Dutch  fashion.  The  houses  are  mostly  built 
of  brick  or  granite,  flat-roofed,  and  chiefly  white, 
with  ereen  windows ;  being^  laro-e  and  airy, 
with  an  elevated  terrace  in  front,  and  small 
gardens  in  the  rear.  British  residents  in  India 
frequently  resort  hither  for  their  health ;  so  the 
town  has  generally  the  appearance  of  bustle 


140  POPULATION    OF    CAPE    TOWN. 

and  gayety.  The  environs  are  picturesque, 
and  many  beautiful  gardens,  laid  out  between 
it  and  the  surrounding  mountains,  add  very 
much  to  the  pleasing  effect. 

The  population  is  said  to  be  thirty  thousand, 
made  up,  as  we  thought,  of  every  conceivable 
nation  on  earth ;  for  w^e  were  not  long  in  dis- 
covering Dutch,  Hottentots,  Malays,  Abyssini- 
ans,  Chinese,  and  English.  We  also  noticed 
liveried  persons,  hanging  on  to  the  back  of  ele- 
gant carriages,  and  coachmen  in  the  same  garb 
of  servitude  ;  so  there  is  evidently  aristocracy 
in  Cape  Town. 

The  pronunciation  of  this  place,  as  I  learned 
it  at  school,  I  find  to  be  erroneous,  the  people 
here  pronouncing  it  as  a  w^ord  of  two  syllables, 
with  the  accent  on  the  first  instead  of  the  last, 
as  we  are  accustomed  to  make  it.  It  looks  out 
west  and  north  upon  the  open  sea,  from  a  level 
plain  between  the  shore  and  Table  Mountain, 
w^hich  stretches  behind  it,  and  continues  south 
and  west  in  an  irregular  curve,  until  it  ends  at 
the  southern  point  of  the  bay,  in  the  disjoint- 
ed, rounded  summit,  called  the  Lion's  Eump. 
The   town  has  a  pervadingly  English   aspect, 


AHISTOCRAGY,    CAPE    TOWN. 


THE   MALAYS    OF    CAPE    TOWN.  141 

though  very  much  modified  by  the  people  and 
accessories  of  the  numerous  other  races  that 
inhabit  it.  Being  a  military  station,  its  streets 
seem,  to  us  Americans,  literally  to  swarm  with 
officers  and  sentinels  on  duty. 

Of  the  ten  thousand  slender,  swarthy  Malays, 
some  few  are  intelligent  and  wealthy;  most, 
however,  are  an  exceedingly  stupid  set,  retain- 
ino;  all  their  slothful  orientalisms,  and  taking; 
no  thought  for  the  morrow.  They,  as  well  as 
the  Hottentots,  and  other  races  not  of  Euro- 
pean blood,  generally  called  "coolies,"  are 
governed  by  a  special  class  of  enactments, 
copies  of  which  are  posted  conspicuously  over 
the  town,  on  large  sign-boards,  six  feet  square, 
like  the  rates  on  a  toll  bridge  or  turnpike  gate ; 
prescribing  their  wages,  hours  of  daily  labor, 
weight  of  burdens  to  be  carried,  &c.  Any  one 
desirous  of  having  a  piece  of  work  performed, 
may  call  upon  any  of  these  not  otherwise  ac- 
tively employed,  and  set  them  at  work  for  the 
legal  time,  at  legal  rates,  and  in  case  of  refusal 
they  are  imprisoned. 

Our  second  day  in  town  was  spent  mostly  in 
the  Botanic  Garden,  really  a  "scientific  para- 


142  THE   BOTANIC    GARDEN. 

dise/'  —  if  there  is  such  a  place,  —  perhaps  un- 
equaled  in  interest  by  any  of  its  size  in  the 
world.  It  covers  an  area  of  twenty  acres,  on 
one  side  of  the  magnificent  avenue,  so  called, 
and  directly  opposite  the  stately  Government 
Plouse,  the  official  residence  of  the  governor 
of  Cape  Colony.  The  garden  is  in  bloom  the 
year  round ;  and  coming  in  the  middle  of  it 
we  find  the  camellias  (the  size  of  thrifty  peach 
trees)  perfect  masses  of  blossoms ;  the  walks 
bordered  with  monthly  roses,  orange  and 
lemon  trees,  filling  the  air  with  perfume  ;  Cape 
jessamines,  lilies,  and  innumerable  varieties  of 
geraniums,  in  full  flower.  If  such  is  mid-win- 
ter, what  must  the  s^^lendor  of  summer  be  ? 

Our  first  Sabbath,  we  attended  service  at 
St.  George's  Cathedral,  which  stands  within 
the  gate  of  the  avenue,  adjoining  the  grounds 
of  the  Government  House.  The  music  was, 
perhaps,  the  most  impressive  part  of  the  ser- 
vice to  us,  the  chanting  being  performed  by  a 
choir  of  boys,  with  sweet  and  well-trained 
voices.  The  sacred  quiet  of  the  place,  to- 
gether with  the  delicious  music,  deeply  affected 
our  hearts,   and    awakened   within   us   many 


AN    ACQUAEs'TANCE    FORMED.  143 

thoughts  and  feelmgs  ^yhich  had  become  tor- 
pid, in  the  foul  and  unwholesome  atmosphere 
of  our  godless  ship.  Souls,  like  steel,  rust 
under  certain  corroding  circumstances. 

Good  fortune,  I  find,  has  not  wholly  forsaken 
me.  Through  the  influence  of  one  of  our 
shipmates  I  have  formed  a  pleasant  and  profit- 
able acquaintance  with  a  young  English  officer 
but  lately  returned  from  an  expedition,  with 
his  regiment,  into  the  Kaffir  country.  Being 
one  of  two  or  three  invited  to  his  home,  we 
found  it  a  cottage,  three  miles  from  the  town,  on 
the  Wynberg  road,  literally  covered  with  roses, 
geraniums,  and  jessamines ;  situated  upon  a 
small  eminence,  overlooking  the  town  and  the 
limitless  Atlantic  beyond.  His  pretty  young 
wife  and  children  met  us  at  the  door,  and  wel- 
comed us  cordially  to  the  hospitalities  of  their 
home.  After  a  luxurious  dinner  we  related 
to  him  the  story  of  our  sufferings  and  hair- 
breadth escapes,  receiving  in  return  narratives 
of  adventures  in  the  field,  for  ours  upon  the 
flood.  A  bunch  of  assegais  and  arrows,  tipped 
with  virulent  poison,  a  stout  Kaffir  bow,  a  war 
club  w^ith  a  round  head,  set  w^th  sharp  knobs^ 


144  KAFFIR    WARFARE. 

like    the    old    German  ^^  moro'enstern,"   huno: 
U2:)on  the  wall. 

Sitting  beneath  these  pagan  trophies^  he  dis- 
played to  us  the  complete  suit  of  stout  leather 
in  which  he  made  the  campaign  against  the 
Kaifirs,  and  told  us  the  occurrences  of  the  Vv^ar, 
in  which  we  w^ere  much  interested.  The  troops 
had  notice  at  one  time,  it  seems,  of  a  body  of 
Kaffirs  concealed  in  the  depths  of  a  vast  forest, 
and  immediately  marched  against  them. 

Advancing  as  flir  as  possible  with  horses, 
they  left  them  guarded,  and  went  forward 
through  the  dense  "  chapparal,"  as  they  call  it, 
having  borrowed  a  word  from  Mexico,  seem- 
ingly, to  serve  their  purpose.  The  low  trees 
and  underbrush  becoming  at  last  too  thick  to 
be  penetrated,  they  actually  scrambled  a  mile 
or  two  over  their  tops,  as  we  had  done  thix)ugh 
the  masses  of  undergroA^i:h  in  the  forests  of 
Brazil,  came  by  surprise  upon  the  enemy,  and 
routed  them  with  considerable  loss.  It  is  gen- 
erally found,  however,  to  be  useless  to  operate 
against  these  hardy  and  athletic  foemen  w^ith 
any  thing  less  rapid  and  efficient  than  cav- 
alry. 


CUMBROUS    TEAMS.  145 

An  invitation  to  protract  our  stay  as  we 
chose  was  gladly  accepted,  and  the  next  morn- 
incT  found  us  on  an  excursion  before  breakfast, 
in  company  Avith  our  host.  The  first  thing 
that  attracted  our  attention  was  the  huge 
wagons  of  the  Cape,  the  dimensions  of  which 
may  be  imagined  by  the  size  of  the  largest 
wheels,  which  are  sometimes  ten  feet  high, 
with  a  hub  like  a  hogshead,  and  an  enormous 
iron  tire  a  foot  in  width.  These  gigantic  ve- 
hicles are  drawn  by  twelve,  twenty,  and  even 
thirtj'  cattle,  guided  by  two  or  three  men,  who 
make  long  journeys  to  and  from  the  country 
with  produce,  finding  particular  convenience 
in  their  wide  wheels,  which  enable  them  to 
pass  over  the  loose,  shifting  sands,  which  they 
sometimes  find  on  their  return,  in  hills  of  ten 
feet,  where  thej^  had  before  found  a  hard  and 
level  road. 

The  oxen  are  longer  limbed  than  ours,  with 
narrow,  wild-looking  faces,  and  immense  horns 
-bending  upwards  and  outwards  with  a  para- 
bolic curve  ;  sometimes  ^\q  and  six  feet  in 
length,  and  spreading  so  as  to  measure  more 
than  ten  feet. 

13 


146  AN    OLD    ACQUAINTANCE. 

After  an  hour  or  two  of  rambling  we  returned 
to  breakfast.  These  pleasant  social  meals  at 
table  are  a  wonderful  luxury  to  us,  after  our 
long  condemnation  to  the  vulgar  method  of 
carrying  our  food  to  a  corner  to  eat.  We  sat 
a  long  time  enjoying  it,  though  we  had  in 
prospect  an  excursion  to  Table  Mountain,  reck- 
oned a  good  day's  jaunt.  We  started  rather 
late,  and  strolled  leisurely  up  the  slopes  toward 
the  mountain,  passing  ponds  overgrown  with 
calla  Ethiopia,  as  thick  and  weed-like  as  pond 
lilies  at  home. 

As  we  passed  through  a  grove  of  African 
pine  we  met  two  seafaring  men,  rambling 
about  like  ourselves,  in  one  of  Avhom,  to  my 
surprise,  I  recognized  Captain  McDowell,  of  the 
schooner  Euphrasia.  We  had  a  long  inter- 
view^, conversing  upon  various  matters,  during 
which  he  informed  me  of  his  intention  to  open 
business  in  Austraha,  having  a  full,  assorted 
cargo  of  goods,  groceries,  and  liquors  for  that 
purpose,  and  concluded  by  offering  to  furnish 
me  a  stock  of  merchandise  on  excellent  terms, 
if  I  wished  to  enlist  in  that  direction.  But 
finding  that  the  sale  of  the  "fiery    element" 


VISIT    TO    TABLE   MOUNTAIN.  147 

would  be  a  necessary  department  of  the  busi- 
ness, I  declined  tlie  undertaking. 

Only  two  of  the  company  ascended  the 
mountain,  as  it  began  to  grow  foggy,  and  the 
precipitous  and  rugged  character  of  it  render 
it  exceedingly  dangerous  at  such  times,  beside 
shutting  out  the  prospect. 

They  wandered  about  till  they  found  them- 
selves in  the  "  table  cloth,"  a  heavy,  dense  fog, 
which  often  envelops  the  summit.  They  had 
discretion,  however,  to  follow  the  rules  for  such 
cases ;  sat  quietly  down,  and  remained  folded 
in  their  cool  blanket  throu(>:h  the  nio-ht,  and 
returned  in  the  morning  chilled,  weary,  and 
hungry ;  glad  to  escape  the  fate  of  one  who 
had  some  time  before  been  dashed  to  pieces 
upon  the  rugged  rocks  below,  by  attempting 
to  find  his  way  down. 

Wynberg  road  is  a  favorite  walk  with  us, 
being  the  most  perfect  I  have  ever  seen  — 
built  in  the  thorough,  macadamized  manner  of 
the  English  —  well-graded,  even,  smooth,  hard, 
with  very  little  dust,  and  a  surface  almost  inky 
black. 

It  is  lined  on  both  sides,  a  distance  of  almost 


148  INTERVIEW    WITH    THE    KAFFIR    CHIEF. 

eight  miles,  with  cottages  and  country  seats, 
gardens,  vinej'ards,  and  parks,  all  very  neatly 
kept  and  in  high  cultivation. 

In  the  Wynberg  prison  is  confined  Seyolo, 
the  Kafhr  chief,  long  the  most  powerful  ruler 
in  that  part  of  Africa,  and  the  worst  enemy  of 
the  English  colony.  About  five  months  since, 
he  voluntarily  surrendered  himself  to  govern- 
ment, and  has  since  been  kept  in  confinement. 
Gaining  permission  to  visit  him,  we  entered 
his  cell,  when  he  arose,  extended  his  hand, 
and  gave  us  a  cordial  greeting.  He  appears 
about  twenty-seven  years  of  age,  being  six  feet 
and  one  inch  in  height,  and  of  the  most  per- 
fect proportions.  His  skin  is  quite  dark,  his 
head  well-formed  and  high,  his  eye  full,  mild, 
and  expressive  ;  his  mouth  really  beautiful,  and 
his  teeth  of  pure  whiteness.  Altogether,  his 
countenance  expresses  fine  and  manly  feelings, 
and  much  intelligence  ;  not  any  thing  of  the 
savage  nature  and  habits  we  had  expected  to 
read  in  it. 

He  has  several  wives,  one  of  whom  is  with 
him  —  a  shy  little  creature  of  sixteen,  with  a 
beautiful  hand  and  full,  dark  eyes.     She  gazed 


INDEPENDENCE    DAY.  149 

upon  US  a  moment,  and  then  coiling  herself, 
like  a  serjDent,  in  her  blanket,  remained  out 
of  sight,  silent  and  motionless,  until  we  de- 
j)arted. 

Various  are  the  places  we  have  visited, 
and  the  excursions  we  have  made,  while  with 
this  pleasant  family;  but  such  detentions  are 
not  what  we  desire,  provided  we  could  have 
tolerable  arrangements  in  a  direct  voyage  to 
Australia  —  the  place  of  our  destination. 

July  4th  was  ushered  in  by  a  glorious  anni- 
versary sunrise.  Although  in  a  foreign  port, 
and  a  military  station,  the  Americans  and  lov- 
ers of  liberty  were  wide  awake  for  a  celebra- 
tion. The  port  regulations  would  not  permit 
a  salute  to  be  fired ;  consequently  their  enthu- 
siasm was  spent  in  a  dinner,  spiced  with  music, 
speeches,  &c. 

We  had  intended  to  sail  this  afternoon ; 
indeed,  we  were  ready  to  sail  four  days  after 
entering  this  port,  and  should  have  done  so, 
but  the  French  passengers  lodged  a  protest 
against  the  captain,  with  the  consul,  charging 
him  with  trying  to  run  the  ship  ashore  twice, 

13* 


150  HEAVY    SEAS. 

as  well  as  several  other  violations  of  duty. 
Upon  this  he  was  imprisoned,  and  was  only 
liberated  by  the  intervention  of  passengers 
w^ho  desired  to  be  on  their  way,  and  not  from 
any  good  wall  to  him. 

He  is  determined  to  revenge,  in  some  way 
or  other ;  and  of  com^se  it  is  an  obstacle  to  our 
progress. 

10th.  —  We  were,  through  much  difficulty, 
able  to  go  out  to  sea  on  the  5th.  The  seas,  in 
this  part  of  the  ocean,  are  the  heaviest  in  the 
w^orld;  and  within  a  few  moments  there  will 
arise  around  us  such  billows  as  I  never  dreamed 
of  before.  At  seven,  last  evening,  the  wind 
began  to  rise,  the  clouds  to  wear  a  lurid  aspect, 
w^hich  was  soon  followed  by  rollino-  thunder 
and  flashing  lightning.  The  vessel  was  thrown 
upon  her  beam  ends,  and  a  leak  forced  its  way 
through ;  but  this  was  soon  remedied,  and  we 
are  still  alive,  through  the  infinite  mercy  of 
Him  who  rules  the  winds  and  waves. 

17tli.  —  We  have  passed  through  a  storm 
fearful  indeed.     The  heavens  grew  dark,  filled 


TERRIFIC    STORM.  151 

with  clouds  like  the  lurid  masses  from  which 
the  first  heavy  burst  of  rain  sometimes  falls 
in  our  summer  thunder  storms  at  home,  but 
beyond  measure  more  vast  and  threatening  in 
aspect,  and  rapid  in  movement.  It  appeared 
as  if  each  were  a  reservoir  of  a  hideous  tem- 
pest, discharging  their  streams  upon  us,  and 
the  water  about  us,  with  such  power  as  to 
send  us  careering  upon  the  bounding  waves 
in  utter  confusion.  I  saw  repeatedly  two  of 
these  precipitous  waves  sweeping  toward  us  at 
once,  curlino^   hio;h    above    our   low  bulwarks 

7  DO 

from  opposite  sides,  apparently  ready  to  break 
upon  our  heads,  when  we  would  slide  beyond 
them,  or  rise  nearly  to  their  summit  upon  some 
third  billow,  that  lifted  us  from  below  like  some 
gigantic  hand. 

Sometimes,  from  the  top  of  a  mountain  wave, 
I  could  look  for  miles  over  the  vast  ocean 
desert,  and  the  next  moment  would  find  us 
buried  in  the  depths  beneath. 

Night  closed  around  us,  and  the  storm 
abated  not  in  the  least.  The  black  heavens 
were  above  us,  and  the  angry  seas  beneath, 
w^hile  around  us  on  every  side  swept  the  furi- 


152  THE  captain's  despair. 

ous  wind.  The  situation  of  two  hundred  souls, 
—  men,  women,  and  children,  —  shut  up  in  a 
little  space  below,  thrown  helplessly  hither 
and  thither  for  so  many  desperate  hours,  was 
painful  in  the  extreme. 

While  endeavoring  to  administer  some  com- 
fort to  some  of  the  feebler  victims,  I  heard  a 
crash  on  deck,  followed  by  the  sound  of  rush- 
ing water  through  the  thick  planking  on  deck. 
Repairing  to  the  spot,  I  found  the  jib-boom 
and  fore-topmast  had  been  carried  away,  the 
former  gone  overboard;  the  latter,  tangled  with 
rigging  and  shattered  spars,  lay  across  the  bul- 
warks. The  captain  appeared  with  a  face 
whiter  than  I  ever  supposed  his  red  visage 
could  ever  be,  and  exclaimed,  "  0  God,  all  is 
lost!" 

He  ordered  the  main  spencer  to  be  set,  and 
went  into  the  cabin,  making  an  effort  to  con- 
dole with  the  passengers,  the  extremity  of  the 
danger  having,  for  once,  made  him  really  hu- 
man. Our  condition  was  now  known  to  all, 
and  the  scene  in  the  crowded  cabin  was  solemn 
indeed  ;  for  the  expectation  was  universal  that 
the  gigantic  seas  would  soon  finish  what  the 


A    SOLEMN    SCENE.  153 

wind  had  becrun.  A  short  consultation  anion"- 
those  who  held  the  sustaining  hopes  of  the 
gospel,  and  were  therefore  free  from  the  abject 
fears  and  lamentations  of  others,  resulted  in  a 
decision  to  hold  a  meeting  for  prayer  in  our 
extremity.  The  suggestion  was  eagerly  re- 
ceived, and  an  Englishman  named  Croke,  a 
local  Methodist  preacher,  together  with  Buck- 
ley and  myself,  conducted  a  service  brief  and 
simple,  but  earnest  enough,  being  made  im- 
j)ressive  by  its  dreadful  reality. 

AYe  reminded  the  groaning  and  weeping 
company  of  their  loose,  ungodly  lives,  and 
great  wickedness,  even  on  this  voyage,  and 
urged  the  duty  of  immediate  repentance,  and 
looking  to  God  for  mercy. 

It  was  also  said, —  and  it  was  my  own  firm 
behef, — that  we  had  not  been  brouo-ht  so  far  on 
our  way,  through  such  imminent  perils,  to  be 
destroyed  now. 

We  reminded  them  of  the  two  escapes  from 
shipwreck  on  the  coast ;  of  the  third  on  the 
South  African  reef;  the  fourth,  in  enterincr  Table 
Bay ;  the  fifth,  in  the  calm  after  we  had  left  it ; 
of  our  providential  supplies  of  water  north  of 


154  PRAYEKS    FOR   DELIVERANCE. 

the  line  ;  of  the  still  more  wonderful  salvation 
from  death  by  fire  ;  and  by  thus  presenting 
the  hopes  which  animated  us,  we  calmed,  in 
some  measure,  the  general  fright. 

The  captain  himself  summoned  all  hands  to 
a  second  meeting  of  the  same  kind  afterward, 
and  was  one  of  the  most  attentive  hearers. 
The  evening  witnessed  a  third  no  less  earnest 
and  serious.  The  homely  prayers  and  ill-sung 
psalms  could  not  but  have  a  solemn  meaning, 
when  the  starving,  drenched,  weary,  and  dis- 
pirited congregation  were  thrown  every  mo- 
ment hither  and  thither  by  the  tempests  of 
Him  whom  they  addressed  —  when  they  asked 
preservation  from  danger  against  which  human 
effort  was  utterly  powerless  —  which  threat- 
ened to  bury  them  speedily  in  the  depths  of 
the  sea.  The  women  wept  quietly;  the  men 
prayed  and  groaned,  and  even  the  weather- 
beaten  face  of  our  wicked  old  commander  was 
wet  with  unaccustomed  tears. 

At  the  close  of  the  service  the  hurricane 
was  still  at  its  height,  and  the  same  enormous 
seas  still  breaking  over  our  dismantled  ship. 
At   midnight,   however,   there   was   a   sudden 


tha:xks  for  preservation.  155 

change.  The  clouds  were  dissipated  and  scat- 
tered :  the  wind  and  the  sea  fell  with  a  strancre 
rapidity^  the  whole  appearing  no  less  than  a 
signal  answer  to  prayer,  which  called  forth  a 
service  of  thanksgiving  this  morning  —  the 
first  Sabbath  observance  among  the  ship's  com- 
pany for  nearly  six  months. 

20th.  —  Various  expedients  have  been  re- 
sorted to,  for  the  purpose  of  repairing  the 
damage  done  to  the  ship ;  but  most  of  the  ex- 
periments prove  insufficient  as  yet.  By  means 
of  a  floating  spar,  we  are  heading  toward  the 
Isle  of  France  —  have  made  about  fifty  miles. 

24th.  —  Fine  weather.  The  captain  himself 
made  arrangements  for  "  church  service,"  and 
tolled  the  bell  as  the  summons  to  divine  wor- 
ship. Croke  gave  us  a  short  and  sensible  dis- 
course, from  Rev.  xxii.  1  and  2  verses. 

The  dangers  so  recently  escaped,  our  present 
disabled  condition  on  a  vessel  little  better  than 
a  wreck,  the  unknown  perils  to  be  met  before 
we  reach  our  anticipated  port,  the  chances  that 
we   never   reach  it,  or  any  other,  are  ample 


156  LAND    SEEN. 

reasons  for  seriousness  in  our  audience.  Yet  I 
cannot  avoid  the  painful  conviction  that  most 
of  them  are  frightened  into  solemnity  for  the 
time  being. 

28th.  —  Surely  no  one  ever  penned  a  truer 
line,  than  that  "joy  and  sorrow  meet  together." 
It  is  verily  so,  we  thought,  as  a  thrill  of  joy 
went  through  every  heart,  at  the  cry  of  "  land," 
this  mornino^,  and  almost  a  moment  after  saw 
the  assembled  company  on  deck  witnessing 
themselves  slovvly  drifting  toward  the  shore  of 
Madagascar,  upon  a  heavy  swell. 

The  captain  ordered  another  effort  to  be 
made  to  get  the  first  jury  rudder  into  efficient 
operation.  After  an  hour  or  two  of  cutting, 
carving,  and  hoisting,  the  attempt  succeeded, 
amid  tears  and  cheers  of  the  whole  ship's  com- 
pany. Through  the  day,  however,  we  gradu- 
ally approached  the  land,  and  at  evening  could 
plainly  see  the  rugged  outlines  and  green 
forests  of  the  hills  near  the  coast,  and  the  suc- 
cessive ranges  that  rose  one  behind  another 
toward  the  interior. 

.A  light  breeze,  springing  up,  has  carried  us 


SICKNESS.  157 

out  to.  sea  again,  saving  us,  in  all  human  proba- 
bility, not  only  from  shipwreck,  but  from  the 
weapons  and  teeth  of  the  cannibals  who  in- 
habit this  part  of  the  coast. 

August  5th.  —  This  monotony  and  suspense, 
together  with  the  scarcity  of  water  and  pro- 
visions, are  producing  an  unfavorable  effect 
upon  many  minds  and  bodies.  Nervous  com- 
plaints are  becoming  frequent  among  men, 
vromen,  and  children.  Moreover,  we  have  de- 
tected the  terrible  signs  of  scurvy,  but  have 
agreed  to  keep  this  startling  news  to  ourselves, 
at  least  for  the  present,  confining  our  efforts  to 
the  maintenance  of  good  spirits,  and  some 
degree  of  healthful  activity  among  our  sickly 
and  discouraged  passengers. 

6th.  —  A  strange  apathy  and  indifference 
has  settled  down  upon  nearly  all  Our  long 
series  of  disappointments  and  hardships  has 
seemed  to  render  hearts  callous,  and  deaden 
the  sensibilities  of  many.  Nearly  half  are  sick 
with  a  sloAV  kind  of  ship  fever,  the  result  of 
general  exhaustion  from  mental  suffering  and 

14 


158         NEW    MODE   OF    TREATING    THE    DYING. 

physical  debility.  Thin,  yellow,  haggard  faces, 
wearing  the  most  woe-begone  looks,  are  plenty. 
Some  neither  wash  ncr  go  for  their  daily 
rations  —  one  quart  of  water,  the  same  quan- 
tity of  rice,  a  little  miserable  bread,  and  salt 
junk.  One  poor  fellow  really  set  himself  about 
dj'ing.  He  has  lain  in  his  bunk,  obstinately 
refusing  to  go  on  deck,  or  even  move  about 
for  any  purpose  whatever.  This  excited  con- 
siderable feeling,  as,  in  the  general  unhealthi- 
ness,  one  such  case  might  prove  disastrous 
indeed.  Havino-  a  brother-in-law  of  more 
cheerfulness  than  himself,  who  saw  what  was 
needed,  he  took  a  friend  or  two,  and  proceeded 
to  the  couch  of  Bob,  saluting  him  in  a  strong 
and  hopeful  voice — "Halloa  !  What's  all  this  ? 
H'ist  out  there.  Bob  !  "  A  groan  accompanied 
the  feeble  answer,  "I  can't  —  I'm  dying." 

His  visitors,  considering  that  no  unnecessary 
dying  could  be  allowed  on  the  ship,  actually 
laid  hands  upon  him,  forced  him  upon  deck, 
where  they  subjected  him  to  a  thorough  bath, 
which  he  very  much  needed.  Although  the 
operation  was  any  thing  but  agreeable,  it  has 
produced  a   favorable  result,  and  he    is   now 


THE   ISLE    OF    BOURBON.  159 

doing  well.  This  day  we  sighted  Bourbon,  but 
with  a  head  wind.  The  view,  however,  gives 
us  a  gleam  of  hope  that  we  may  succeed  in 
reachinor  the  Isle  of  France. 

o 

9th.  —  Yesterday  we  could  discover  trees 
and  houses  on  the  Bourbon  Island,  and  the 
Picton  de  Nevis  rising  majestically  above  the 
other  hills,  furrowed  throughout  the  whole 
ascent  with  many  deep  ravines  and  gorges, 
w^hile  here  and  there  we  could  see  small  streams 
wandering  down  its  sides.  The  sight  really 
revived  our  spirits ;  but  to-day  we  are  blown  off 
to  sea  again,  and  shall  therefore  have  more 
difficulty  in  making  the  Isle  of  France.  Our 
rudder  chains  have  corroded  rapidly  upon  the 
ship's  copper,  and  have  had  to  be  successively 
replaced  with  such  as  could  be  spared  from  the 
rigging.  Our  last  one  from  the  main  rigging 
has  been  put  on,  and  in  case  of  a  heavy  gale, 
our  situation  would  be  truly  appalHng.  We 
can  only  trust  in  God. 


CHAPTER   YIII. 

ENTER    THE    HARBOR    OF    PORT    LOUIS.  —  VISIT   AT   THE 

ISLE   OF   FRANCE. GRAVE   OF   HARRIET    NEWELL. — 

A  MALABAR   FUNERAL. ENTER  THE   BRIG   NAUTILUS. 

LAND   AT   MELBOURNE. 

"  0,  who  can  tell  save  he  whose  heart  hath  tried, 
And  danced  in  triumph  o'er  the  waters  wide, 
The  exulting  sense  —  the  pulse's  maddening  play  — 
That  thrills  the  wanderer  of  the    trackless  way." 

Thus  sang  Byron;  but  metliinks  he  would 
never  have  written  of  the  "  deep  and  dark-blue 
ocean"  with  as  much  serenity  and  enthusiasm 
had  he  been  tossed  upon  the  "  bounding  w^aste," 
in  a  miserable  bark  like  ours,  with  the  ever- 
recurring  expectation  of  sinking  in  the  depths, 
without  a  grave  —  "unknelled,  uncoffined,  and 
unknown." 

The  "triumph"  and  the  "exultation"  were 
more  certainly  ours  on  sight  of  land,  when  a 
near  view  of  the  much-wished-for  isle  greeted 
us  on  the  15th,  as  will  be  seen  from  this  date. 

(160) 


ATTRACTIVE   VIEW.  161 


o? 


Its  whole  outline  is  singular  and  striking 
being  broken  with  many  jagged,  pointed  peaks, 
among  which  Peter  Botte,  with  his  straight 
shaft  and  high-capped  summit,  is  king.  The 
winter  rains  have  left  the  island  clothed  in  a 
mantle  of  fresh  green. 

To  us  half-starved,  sea-worn  wretches,  the 
scene  is  as  lovely  as  the  Delectable  Hills  to 
Bunyan's  poor  pilgrims;  and  we  gaze  with 
profound  delight  upon  the  mountain  tops ;  the 
misty  clouds  above  them,  and  their  sloping 
sides,  dotted  with  plantations  and  villas,  varie- 
gated with  the  bright  colors  of  growing  crops. 

16th.  —  No  sleep  last  night,  for  anxiety, 
hope,  and  fear.  All  hands  were  watching  for 
the  dawn;  an  incessant  lookout  being  main- 
tained for  fear  of  reefs,  as  no  one  on  board  is 
acquainted  with  this  part  of  the  Indian  Ocean. 
We  were  all  night  within  a  few  miles  of  port, 
and  at  dawn,  the  breeze  being  very  light  and 
not  favorable,  we  hoisted  a  signal  of  distress, 
and  fired  guns  for  any  steamer  that  might  be 
inside,  this  being  one  of  the  English  mail 
stations. 

14* 


162  ARRIVAL    IN    PORT. 

In  an  hour  or  two  a  black  steamship,  from 
the  Red  Sea,  came  to  om^  assistance,  and  towed 
us  into  the  harbor  of  Port  Louis,  —  a  rusty, 
ragged,  dirty  set  of  us,  —  with  our  fair  propor- 
tions sadly  disfigured  by  the  rickety  little  jury 
spars  forward — an  ungainly  and  woful  spec- 
tacle. 

A  crowd,  attracted  by  the  sound  of  our  guns, 
were  gathered  upon  the  mole  to  witness  our 
arrival.  The  French^  English,  and  American 
consuls  came  on  board  soon  after  we  reached 
our  anchorage,  and  more  astonishment  was 
never  visible  in  human  countenances  than  in 
theirs,  as  they  beheld  the  wan  faces  and  tat- 
tered costumes  of  the  passengers,  the  stripped 
and  sea-beaten  aspect  of  our  shattered  bul- 
warks and  maimed  spars,  and  the  unheard-of 
number  stowed  away  in  our  small  quarters. 

A  brief  examination  drew  from  them  the 
remark  that  we  oudit  to  be  thankful  to  God 
that  we  had  ever  reached  any  port  at  all,  in 
such  a  miserable  condition.  Their  sympathies 
were  so  effectually  excited,  they  offered  to 
provide  houses  for  our  convenience  and  com- 
fort on  shore,  each  for  his  own  nation.     Some 


SYMPATHY    OF   THE    PEOPLE.  163 

left  the  ship  at  once,  but  most  of  us  have  re- 
mained till  sent  for,  being  entirely  destitute  of 
money. 

We  are  anchored  near  a  Scotch  vessel,  which 
arrived  two  weeks  before  us,  having  been  out 
in  the  same  gale  in  wdiich  we  lost  our  rudder. 
She  was  swept  clean  from  stem  to  stern  of 
bulwarks,  deck  houses,  sails,  and  every  thing 
except  her  bare  spars,  and  the  same  time  lost 
a  passenger  and  sailor.  She  too  is  bound  for 
Australia,  and  is  in  for  repairs. 

All  day  w^e  have  received  visits  from  the 
citizens  of  the  place,  and  from  neighboring 
vessels.  Many  friendly  people,  hearing  of  our 
destitution,  have  brought  and  distributed  among 
us  quantities  of  delicious  fruit  —  a  most  w^el- 
come  gift. 

Early  in  the  evening,  some,  desirous  of  en- 
joying themselves  at  every  possible  opportunity, 
commenced  an  entertainment  of  vocal  and  in- 
strumental music ;  and  wdth  songs,  speeches, 
and  cheering,  the  moonlight  jubilee  has  lasted 
long.  It  is  almost  like  a  transition  from  pur- 
gatory to  paradise.  The  dreary  experiences  of 
the  past   are  forgotten ;   and  so,  alas  !   is  the 


164  OUR    MISERABLE    CONDITION. 

hand  of  God  who  brought  ns  through  them. 
Once  safe  in  port,  and  sure  of  gomg  ashore 
to-morrow,  nothing  is  heard  or  remembered  of 
prayers  or  thanksgivings.  Such  is  man's  in- 
gratitude. 

25th.  —  Early  on  the  17th,  the  captain  came 
with  two  scows,  one  for  us  and  another  for  our 
baggage.  In  a  few  moments  we  w^ere  landed 
upon  the  stone  steps  leading  into  the  cus- 
tom house.  Here  our  beggarly  chattels  were 
drawn  up  and  submitted  to  the  inspection  of 
the  government  officials,  who  lumped  them  all 
together  as  a  parcel  of  trash,  not  worth  im- 
posing a  duty  on.  Poor  as  they  w^ere,  they 
were,  nevertheless,  indispensable  to  us;  and 
securing  them  as  best  we  could,  w^e  marched 
through  the  heart  of  the  crowded  and  curious 
city  to  our  allotted  abodes,  presenting  an  ap- 
pearance, it  must  be  acknowledged,  somewhat 
like  prison  birds,  with  our  negligent  sea  clothes, 
and  despairing  expressions,  induced  by  our 
long  train  of  suffering,  and  graven  so  deeply 
as  not  to  be  effaced  by  even  twenty  hours  of 
physical  comfort  and  safety. 


GOOD    ACCOMMODATIONS.  165 

Indeed,  reflection  brought  but  little  gladness, 
for  most  of  us  were  absolutely  penniless,  hav- 
ing spent  all  our  funds  in  outfit,  passage 
money,  subscribing  to  pay  the  ship's  bills,  or 
current  expenses. 

We  were  directed  to  a  large  stone  store- 
house, one  hundred  and  twenty-five  feet  in 
length,  nearly  full  of  goods,  with  an  airy  gar- 
ret, loosely  floored,  which  was  to  be  our  home 
for  a  little  time.  We  at  once  "located"  upon 
separate  portions  of  the  floor,  arranged  our 
small  property,  and  commenced  housekeeping 
in  good  earnest.  Fresh  provisions  and  fruit 
were  served  out  to  us  every  morning,  and 
each  mess  cooked  in  turn,  having  but  one 
place  for  the  operation.  We  luxuriated  in  the 
unbounded  supply  of  fresh  water,  and  lost  no 
time  in  effecting  thorough  purification  of  our 
persons  and  clothing,  realizing  the  truth  of 
Thomson's  sentiment,  that  — 

"  Even  from  the  body's  purity  the  mind 
Receives  a  secret,  sympathetic  aid." 

Thus  being  rendered  little   more   human,   by 
Nature's  own   element,  we  turned   our  atten- 


166  DESCRIPTION    OF    THE    CITY. 

tion  to  things  about  us,  and  to  the  history  of 
the  place. 

Port  Louis,  it  seems,  was  originally  settled 
by  the  French,  and  most  of  its  buildings  are 
in  a  French  style,  but  now  mainly  occupied  by 
the  English;  although  the  population,  number- 
ing about  twenty  thousand,  includes  represen- 
tatives from  at  least  eighteen  different  nations. 
It  is  almost  encircled  by  a  range  of  mountains, 
which,  with  the  sea,  enclose  as  delightful  a 
garden  as  can  be  found  on  earth,  filled  with  all 
the  luxury  and  magnificence  of  the  tropics. 

The  city  contains  many  fine  buildings,  has 
wide,  handsome  streets,  with  gas,  abundance 
of  water,  and  is  a  busy  commercial  place. 

The  real  founder  of  this  important  settle- 
ment was  the  justly  celebrated  M.  de  la  Bour- 
donnaye,  w^ho  was  made  governor  in  1734. 
Perceiving  the  importance  of  the  island,  which 
its  two  excellent  harbors  rendered  of  the  great- 
est consequence  to  any  European  power  hav- 
ing, or  wishing  to  have,  possessions  in  India, 
he  set  about  its  improvement  with  a  zeal, 
sagacity,  and  success,  that  have  rarely  been 
equaled,  never  surpassed. 


A    PUBLIC    BENEFACTOR.  167 

He  constructed  numerous  roads,  aqueducts, 
and  other  public  works,  and  fixed  the  seat 
of  government  here,  which  he  may  be  said 
to  have  created  as  well  as  fortified.  For  the 
space  of  eleven  years  only  his  administra- 
tion continued ;  but  it  was  sufficient  for  him  to 
change  the  whole  aspect  of  the  country,  and 
render  it  a  prosperous  and  valuable  colony. 

Sad  though  it  seem,  these  signal  services 
met  with  a  most  ungrateful  return.  On  his 
return  to  France,  in  1748,  he  was  thrown  into 
the  Bastile,  where  he  was  immured  more  than 
three  years,  and  as  the  sequel  proved,  without 
the  smallest  foundation  for  any  of  the  charges 
mxade  against  him.  He  died  the  victim  of  this 
diso-raceful  treatm.ent  in  1755. 

This  island,  it  is  well  known,  is  the  scene 
of  St.  Pierre's  inimitable  tale  of  Paul  and 
Virginia.  The  wreck  of  the  St.  Geran,  so 
striking  and  affecting  an  incident  in  the  story, 
is  a  real  event,  which  took  place  on  the  18th 
of  August,  1744. 

The  whole  island  is  full  of  delightful  scenery. 
The  climate  is  faultless,  and  it  is  already  a 
place  of  considerable  resort  for  invalids.     When 


168  THE    CEMETERY. 

steam  navigation  shall  become  more  general, 
the  place  will,  undoubtedly,  become  a  strong 
attraction  to  thousands  of  health  seekers,  as 
well  as  those  in  pursuit  of  pleasure.  At  pres- 
ent there  is  only  the  arrival  of  the  monthly 
English  mail  steamer  from  Suez,  and  depart- 
ures for  Calcutta  and  Australia. 

We  noticed  in  the  auction  marts  numbers 
of  Arabian  merchants ;  the  noblest  specimens 
of  physical  develo]oment  I  have  ever  seen  — 
stately,  dignified,  and  well  proportioned,  with 
noble  faces,  olive  complexions,  large  black 
eyes,  and  magnificent  beards.  Some  of  them 
were  mounted  on  beautiful  Arab  horses,  and 
others  made  use  of  carriages  of  English  manu- 
facture. One  of  the  most  attractive  spots  in 
the  neighborhood  is  the  cemetery,  on  the  sea 
shore,  about  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  city, 
wdiere  many  travelers,  health-seeking  invalids, 
and  missionaries  have  been  buried ;  among 
whom  is  Mrs.  Harriet  Newell,  who  reposes  in  a 
spot  lovely  enough  for  the  last  resting  place 
even  of  one  as  heavenly  as  she. 

In  striking  contrast  with  this  Christian  buri- 
al, as  I  imagined    it,  was  a  Malabar   funeral. 


> 


0)     O 


o    ^ 


H 


r^ 


A    FUXERAL.  169 

which  came  under  my  observation  in  the  im- 
mediate vicinity.  The  corpse  was  carried  in  a 
crescent-shaped  car,  ten  feet  in  length,  made  of 
reeds  and  Hght  wicker,  and  gayly  decorated 
vrith  bits  of  ribbon,  flowers,  brass  ornaments, 
bells,  and  any  thing  whatever,  to  make  a  show 
and  a  noise. 

This  was  supported  by  four  men,  before 
whom  went  a  procession  of  natives,  dancing, 
sparring,  shouting,  and  blowing  horns  till  they 
arrived  at  the  grave,  when  the  corpse  was  fed 
with  a  mixture  of  rice  and  sand,  and  some 
pennies  given  it  to  pay  its  passage  to  heaven. 
They  ended  their  ceremony  by  the  washing  of 
hands  in  a  pond  in  the  cemetery,  smoking  a 
funeral  pipe  together  on  a  grass  plat,  and  divid- 
ing the  effects  of  the  deceased,  which  by  their 
custom  are  distributed  anion »:  the  whole  circle 
of  friends.  Alas  for  these  deluded  victims  of  a 
miserable  superstition !  How  much  they  need 
the  civiiizino;  and  enlio'htenins^  influences  of  a 
holier  religion ! 

The  Malabar  women  wear  all  manner  of 
ornaments  in  their  ears  and  nostrils,  and  on 
their  arms  and  ankles ;  some  of  them  having 

15 


170  THE   MAGIC    FLAT-IRON. 

considerable    capital    thus    invested^  and    look 
like  walking  jewelry  shops. 

During  my  stay  on  the  island,  I  have  made 
several  new  acquaintances ;  some  by  chance, 
and  some  by  means  of  a  flat-iron.  When  first 
settled  in  our  attic,  Ave  did  a  great  business  in 
washing  and  smoothing  our  clothes ;  and  as  the 
above  instrument  w^as  owned  by  my  friend, 
John  Harman,  he  became  as  much  of  a  ben- 
efactor and  favorite  by  lending  it  to  one  and 
another,  both  men  and  women,  as  if  he  could 
have  "touched"  successfully  "for  the  king's 
evil."  Its  fame  spread  even  beyond  the  pre- 
cincts, for  it  seemed  it  was  almost  unheard-of 
on  the  island.  By  loaning  it  to  one  family  and 
another  he  secured  the  most  flattering  invita- 
tions for  himself  and  a  friend  or  two  to  dinner 
and  tea,  in  many  of  which  I  participated.  The 
inestimable  treasure  has,  I  believe,  been  finally 
presented  to  some  favored  damsel. 

From  a  merchant,  with  whom  I  have  become 
acquainted,  I  have  received  an  offer  of  employ- 
ment upon  favorable  terms,  and  with  good 
prospects  for  the  future ;  but  the  spirit  of  wan- 
dering is  upon  me,  and  I  decline.     Already  I 


A    GOOD    OFFER.  171 

am  tired  of  delaying  upon  tlie  Isle  of  France, 
and  am  anxiously  looking  for  an  opportunity 
to  pursue  the  voyage  to  Australia. 

26th.  —  My  anticipations  are  realized,  and 
that  in  the  most  unexpected  manner.  Mr. 
Werihe,  of  the  house  of  Francis  and  Co.,  on 
the  island,  is  found  to  be  a  relative  of  Clark, 
and  the  knowledge  has  called  forth  his  sympa- 
thy and  benevolence  on  our  behalf  He  offers 
to  pay  for  the  passage  to  Australia  for  two  or 
three  of  us,  and  we  gladly  accept  the  offer,  and 
shall  therefore  leave  forever  our  ship  Peytona, 
and  embark  on  the  brig  "Nautilus,  Captain 
Scott,  of  two  hundred  tuns,  bound  for  Mel- 
bourne wdth  a  cargo  of  sugar. 

28th.  —  Once  more  on  the  waters.  We  did 
not  look  at  our  accommodations  in  advance, 
considering  the  trip  as  merely  the  fulfiUm^ent 
of  our  "manifest  destiny;"  and  it  may  not  be 
surprising,  perhaps,  that  we  find  it  a  rickety, 
dilapidated  "sugar  box,"  filled  to  its  utmost 
capacity.  Twenty-four  of  us  are  stowed  in 
the   hold,  where  a  room   has   been   arranged, 


172  ACCOMMODATIONS    OF   THE    BRIG. 

walled  up  to  the  deck  with  bags  of  sugar  and 
casks  of  liquor  cases,  having  no  entrance  ex- 
cept through  the  main  hatch.  Here  we  are  to 
sit  all  day,  if  we  choose,  and  lie  all  night,  hav- 
ing particularly  stveet  rest,  if  the  material  of 
the  bed  has  any  thing  to  do  with  it. 

We  are  to  cook  for  ourselves,  taking  turns 
with  the  little  Creole  boy,  who  is  waiter,  stew- 
ard, and  cabin  boy,  for  captain  and  officers, 
beside  being  cook  for  the  vessel's  crew. 

September  18th.  —  It  is  generally  agreed  by 
us,  that  this  voyage  is  more  dangerous,  if  possi- 
ble, than  that  on  the  Peytona ;  perhaps  a 
trifle  less  disagreeable.  We  have,  thus  far,  had 
a  succession  of  gales,  that  have  kept  us  nearly 
all  the  time  under  double-reefed  and  close- 
reefed  top-sails,  and,  together  with  our  cramped 
and  comfortless  situation,  have  quite  put  an 
end  to  my  writing  for  a  time. 

Drunkenness  is  the  order  of  things  here 
also.  The  captain,  suspecting  the  sailors  of 
furnishing  themselves  from  the  wrong  source, 
held  an  investigation  of  the  matter,  whereupon 
the  "  dumb  mouths  "  of  his  empty  bottles  told 


JOHN    BULL.  173 

a  conclusive  story.  Upon  this  he  summoned 
ail  hancis  upon  the  quarter-deck,  read  to  the 
culprits  the  severe  provisions  of  the  English 
law  relative  to  stealing  on  shipboard,  and 
briefly  proposed  the  alternative  of  settling  the 
matter  by  paying  for  the  missing  brandy  at 
retail  rates,  or  awaiting  the  course  of  the  law. 

Upon  consultation  they  paid  the  amount 
demanded ;  but  these  seamen  are  a  jovial, 
shrewd  company  —  constantly  leaguing  to- 
gether in  the  accomplishment  of  some  act  of 
roguery.  They  know  enough  to  avoid  dissen- 
sion among  themselves ;  are  friendly  and  help- 
ful ;  have  plenty  of  money,  and  abound  beyond 
measure  in  songs  and  anecdotes,  with  which 
they  beguile  many  an  idle  hour.  The  Eng- 
lishman with  us  is  one  of  those  w^ho  was  con- 
tinually irritating  our  national  pride  on  the 
Peytona  with  the  most  odious  kind  of  com- 
parisons ;  constantly  referring  to  the  superior 
accommodations,  pro\dsions,  and  regulations  on 
"Henglish  vessels;"  daily  vexing  our  hearts 
with  remarks  upon  the  innumerable  evils  of 
our  lot,  as  if  they  were  not  sufficient  of  them- 
selves, without  being  magnified. 

15* 


174  UNPALATABLE    FOOD. 

But  here  we  are  on  an  English  vessel.  We 
had  no  very  definite  expectations,  perhaps,  but 
certainly  some  indistinct  ideas  of  good  treat- 
ment and  decent  food;  but  our  ^^grub"  on  the 
Peytona  was  really  almost  "first-class-hotel" 
fare,  compared  with  this.  Our  bread  is  the 
worst  sort  of  "English  tile,"  that  might  be 
worked  into  boiler  plates  for  hardness.  The 
worst  of  the  Peytona's  beef,  ill-smelling  as  it 
w^as,  and  requiring  diligent  and  faithful  masti- 
cation, could  yet  be  eaten ;  but  here  it  is  soft 
and  sickening,  from  miserable  putrefaction. 

Our  tea,  as  the  seamen  say,  —  and  they  are 
competent  judges, — is  not  a  Chinese,  but  an 
Australian  product;  a  bogus  article,  manufac- 
tured from  the  leaves  of  some  of  the  fragrant 
shrubs  there,  and  the  taste  is  such  as  to  con- 
vince me  of  the  truth  of  the  story. 

Our  water  is  kept  in  a  large  iron  tank,  and 
is  as  yellow  as  gold  with  iron-rust,  besides  being 
strongly  impregnated  with  coal  tar. 

The  mixture  of  pain  and  joy  which  Perrin, 
"  the  old  man,"  extracts  from  this  "  bill  of  fare," 
is  exceedingly  comical.  Holding  up  a  soft  lump 
of  the  putrefying  substance,  he  exclaims  with 


THE   EXGLISmLiN    TAU^JTED.  175 

a  doleful  groan^  '-  0  clear,  boys,  have  we  got  to 
eat  such  stuff  as  this?"  "Yes."  I  reply;  "no 
other  way ;  down  with  it ! "  at  the  same  time 
disposing  of  a  piece  of  the  same  by  the  help 
of  a  morsel  of  bread,  like  a  scrap  of  a  cast-iron 
kettle,  or  next  to  it.  With  another  look  of 
utter  misery,  he  turns  with  bitter  irony  to  the 
nnlucky  Englishman,  and  continues,  "  0,  no, 
this  ain't  bad  beef!  We're  aboard  an  Eno^lish 
vessel  now,  where  they  do  things  up  in  good 
style,  serving  out  the  best  meat,  and  first-quality 
of  bread,  always.     It's  done  accordin'  to  law." 

Thus  he  torments  the  poor  fellow,  who  is 
silent  with  shame,  taking  special  delight  in 
gratifj'ing  his  revenge  upon  this  reviler  of 
American  laws  and  customs. 

These  incessant  taunts  have  driven  him  to 
the  captain,  to  whom  he  has  cited  the  text  of 
the  English  statutes,  frio^htenino;  him  into  so 
much  improvement  that  he  has  weighed  out  to 
lis  a  comparatively  fair  week's  allowance  of 
endurable  food.  I  have  one  secret  source  of 
consolation  myself,  which  I  take  the  liberty  of 
keeping  private  ;  since  discovery  must  neces- 
sarily deprive  me  of  it. 


176  A    LUCKY    FELLOW. 

It  lias  availed  to  lighten  somewhat  the  hor- 
rors of  my  individual  lot ;  while  my  comrades 
innocently  wonder  at  the  patience  with  which 
I  possess  my  soul,  under  our  unjust  treatment. 
This  consolation  is  derived  from  a  confidential 
and  not  wholly  disinterested  friendship,  w^hich 
I  have  managed  to  form  with  the  over-worked 
little  Creole  cook.  He  is  wanted  all  day  long 
in,  at  least,  two  places  at  once,  and  finds  a  hard 
time  in  runnino:  of  errands  for  the  officers, 
cooking  for  passengers,  and  preparing  the  vi- 
ands of  the  cabin  mess  in  a  manner  satisfactory 
to  the  palates  of  the  commander  and  his  mates. 

I  have  installed  myself  as  "  cook-substitute  " 
to  this  young  dignitary,  and  while  watching 
the  savory  messes  of  meats,  vegetables,  &c.,  I 
abstract  now  and  then  some  "unconsidered 
trifle,"  which,  of  course,  is  only  wages  for  work 
done,  but  an  unspeakable  comfort  to  me. 

October  3d.  —  Gales  and  cold  weather  have 
been  the  characteristics  of  our  voyage.  Yes- 
terday, at  8  A.  M.,  w^e  made  Cape  Otway,  and 
at  7  P.  M.  saw  the  lighthouse  at  the  Heads. 
This  morning  we  passed  between  the  bold  and 


/ 


AT    ANCHOR.  1/  / 

lofty  jooints  called  the  Heads  of  Port  Philip 
Bay,  and  are  now  anchored  at  its  upper  ex- 
tremity, opposite  Sandridge,  a  miserable  vil- 
lao^e  near  the  shore,  two  miles  from  Melbourne 
by  a  direct  road  through  swamps  and  heavy 
sands.  It  is  nine  miles  to  the  city  by  the  Eiver 
Yarra  Yarra,  on  which  it  is  situated,  and 
which  sweeps  around  in  a  semicircle,  from  the 
city  to  the  bay.  Many  ships  are  constantly 
arriving  and  departing  to  and  from  all  parts 
of  the  world.  Nearly  a  thousand  sail  are  now 
anchored  in  the  bay. 

4th.  —  This  morning  no  breakfast  was  served 
out  to  us ;  the  ship  having  brought  us  to  Mel- 
bourne, according  to  the  spirit  of  the  nautical 
contract,  and  owed  us  a  living  no  longer.  We 
took  the  hint,  paid  a  boatman  one  pound  to 
put  us  ashore  —  a  true-gold-country  price  for  a 
few  rods  of  boating ;  but  we  did  not  grudge 
it,  although  it  took  almost  our  last  farthing;  to 
place  our  feet  on  land  once  more.  We  packed 
our  portable  property,  hired  a  dray  for  the 
heavy  baggage,  to  transport  us  to  the  borders 
of    Canvas-town,    a    distance    of    two    miles, 


178  aoipiNG  OUT. 

where  poor  or  transient  persons  are  permitted 
to  erect  tents  on  a  piece  of  land  belonging  to 
government^  for  small  rents. 

We  have  arrived  just  at  the  close  of  the 
rainy  season,  and  faid  the  weather  exceedingly 
unpleasant.  We  have  erected  a  temporary 
shelter,  on  sloping  ground,  close  under  the 
wall  of  the  Park,  having  no  fuel  but  such  as 
we  can  pick  wp  about  us.  We  have  bought  a 
little  flour  and  a  little  mutton,  purposing  only 
to  stay  until  we  can  obtain  direct  and  relia- 
ble information  concerning  mining  operations^ 
which  we  are  anxious  to  commence. 


CHAPTER    IX. 

STAY     AT    CANYAS-TOWN.  —  JOURNEY     TO   BALLERAT.  — 

PURCHASE  OF  A  CLAIM. EXPERIENCE  IN  THE  MINES. 

DISAPPOINTMENT    OF    THE    WARDY-ALLOCK     EXPE- 
DITION. —  RETURN  TO  BALLERAT. 

25th.  —  Having  spent  about  two  weeks  in 
Canvas-town  gaining  information  from  differ- 
ent individuals,  which  was  a  contradictory 
mass  of  advice,  as  might  be  supposed,  and 
having  dis230sed  of  nearly  all  our  scanty  jew- 
elry and  hardware  in  the  purchase  of  pro- 
visions, w^e  decided  to  proceed  to  Ballerat,  as 
being  the  deepest  and  richest  mines,  and 
therefore  likely  to  afford  us  the  more  abun- 
dant remuneration.  I  sold  my  watch  for 
seven  pounds,  and,  with  one  or  two  trifling 
additions  which  we  succeeded  in  raising,  Ave 
obtained  the  needed  outfit  for  miners,  and 
had  a  few  dollars  remaining. 

We   left   our   place  of  abode    early  in  the 

(179) 


ISO  JOURXEYIXG    TO    THE    MINES. 

morning,  taking  care  that  no  one  should  be 
acquainted  with  our  intention  before  the  time, 
as  we  had  often  seen  the  tax-gathering  gentry 
pacing  up  and  down  for  the  revenues  of  the 
British  crown,  and  our  lank  purses  feared  their 
-visits. 

Ballerat  is  about  a  hundred  miles  from 
Melbourne,  west  of  north;  and  Geelong,  on 
an  arm  of  the  bay,  forty  miles ;  but  the  road 
from  the  latter  being  much  the  best,  and  the 
usual  route  to  the  "  dig-mno-s,"  we  decided  to 
take  it,  and  embarked  on  a  steamer,  which 
we  found  to  be  none  other  than  the  identical 
Duncan  Hoyle,  which  we  had  spoken  seven 
months  before  while  crossing  the  line,  in  the 
Atlantic,  and  whose  half-wrecked  appearance 
had  created  some  solicitude  in  the  minds  of 
many.  She  had  been  dismantled  and  refitted, 
and  was  now  plying  regularly  between  Mel- 
bourne and  Geelong. 

Upon  arriving  at  the  latter  place,  no  drays 
were  ready,  and  we  prepared  to  encamp  out- 
side the  town  on  the  wet  ground.  A  Scotch 
family,  whose  residence  was  but  a  few  rods 
distant,  sent  us  some  hot  tea,  and   an  invita- 


YANKEE    GIPwLS.  181 

tion  to  spend  the  night  with  them,  which  we 
accepted  most  thankfully.  Here  we  had  a 
sumptuous  repast  of  various  savory  viands, 
especially  those  pleasant,  fragile  cakes,  which 
an  old  friend  of  mine  in  New  England, 
significantly,  if  not  sanctimoniously,  calls 
"  Vanity." 

Our  host  was  young,  intelligent,  full  of 
spirit  and  good  nature,  and  evidently  enjoyed 
life  with  a  keen  zest.  He  had  made  consider- 
able money  in  "  smuggling,"  under  the  absurd 
English  system  of  high  duties  and  a  protective 
force,  but,  a  year  or  two  before  our  visit,  had 
been  detected,  imprisoned,  tried,  and  con- 
demned ;  paid  his  fine  of  two  thousand  pounds, 
and  was  living  comfortably  on  the  remainder. 

We  joined  ourselves  to  a  party  of  fifteen 
Americans,  or,  as  the  English  call  every  body 
from  Anglo-Saxon  America,  "  Yankees,"  who 
had  overtaken  us  on  their  way  to  the  mines. 
Two  of  the  men  were  accompanied  by  their 
wives,  Boston  girls,  one  not  twenty  years  of 
age,  who  were  too  spirited  to  let  their  hus- 
bands go  even  to  Australia  without  them. 

Being  disappointed  in  finding  conveyances, 
16 


182  HARD    TRAVELING. 

as  they  had  expected,  they  resolutely  prepared 
to  walk.  Two  drays,  whose  drivers  were  ac- 
quainted with  the  route,  and  could  serve  as 
guides,  were  employed  to  transport  the  pro- 
visions and  baggage  of  the  party.  The  first 
day  we  traveled  eighteen  miles  over  hills  and 
through  valleys,  in  mud  and  water  for  miles 
together.  The  ladies  endured  the  fatigue 
wonderfully,  although  one  of  them  had  her 
feet  so  blistered  as  to  make  it  doubtful  wheth- 
er she  could  proceed.  We  camped  on  the 
brow  of  a  high  hill,  on  a  spot  of  dry  ground,  J| 
and  thought  ourselves  too  much  exhausted  to 
eat.  After  a  little  rest,  however,  we  made  a 
large  fire,  boiled  our  tea,  and  cooked  our  mut- 
ton, and  with  dry  bread  made  a  meal  that 
would  have  satisfied  an  epicure,  —  if  he  had 
done  our  day's  work. 

Clark,  who  seemed  to  think  that  in  Aus- 
tralia there  must  needs  be  gold  in  every 
stream,  would  not  be  dissuaded  from  surveying 
the  wet  valley  below.  With  shovel  in  hand, 
he  repaired  to  the  bank  of  a  small  river,  and 
spent  an  hour  in  the  mud,  with  as  much 
chance  of  success  as  he  would  have  had  in  a 


CONTRADICTORY    OPINIONS  OF   THE   MINERS.       183 

bushel  of  Connecticut  clay,  and  came  up  again 
to  find  himself  the  subject  of  ridicule. 

At  sunset  the  next  day  we  were  twenty- 
five  miles  further  on  our  way,  having  come 
through  open  Australian  forests,  many  trees 
of  which  were  covered  with  blossoms,  and 
vocal  with  the  everlasting  chatter  of  numer- 
ous parrots  of  a  variety  of  colors.  We  saw 
also  several  of  the  beautiful  "  birds  of  parar 
disc  "  and  mocking^  birds. 

No  man  can  ever  know  the  perfect  relish 
of  food  and  drink,  or  the  perfect  sweetness  of 
sleep,  until  he  takes  them  after  a  day's  weary 
walking,  in  the  open  air,  by  the  light  and 
warmth  of  the  blazing  camp-fire. 

Toward  the  close  of  our  journey  we  met 
several  returning  from  the  mines.  The  inva- 
riable greeting  here  is,  "  Well !  mate  !  "  and 
a  chat  commences  at  once,  by  an  exchange 
of  data  as  to  destination,  starting  place,  &c. 
Those  who  have  been  unfortunate  speak  dis- 
couragingly  of  matters  in  the  mines  ;  others 
give  a  glowing  account,  and  are  strong  in  tlie 
assurance  one  may  be  rich  if  he  will  —  a  state- 
ment pleasant  to  believe,  by  those  walking  in 
the  vale  of  poverty. 


184  DISCOURAGING   PROSPECTS. 

We  entered  the  "  city  of  Ballerat "  through 
a  valley  running  northward  between  two  hills, 
called  "  Yankee  Gully,"  which  opens  out  into 
a  comparatively  level  space,  called  the  "  Flat." 
This  and  the  hills  around  are  dotted  with  the 
homes  of  miners.  We  came  to  Ballerat  for 
the  very  reason  the  mines  were  the  deepest ; 
but  on  the  very  first  sight  of  the  shafts,  into 
which  we  looked  with  anxious  curiosity,  we 
felt  it  to  be  a  most  discouraging  spectacle. 
Some  of  the  pits  are  a  hundred  and  fifty  feet 
deep,  stretching  down  into  impenetrable  dark- 
ness. A  clumsy  wooden  frame  carries  an  axle 
and  two  cranks,  at  which  a  couple  of  weary, 
forbidding-looking  creatures  slowly  turn  to 
raise  the  bucket  of  earth,  water,  or  mud  from 
which  they  hope  to  extract  the  shining  parti- 
cles which  will  compensate  for  their  hard  la- 
bor. Meanwhile  their  comrades  are  at  work 
by  lamplight  below. 

"Have  we  got  to  work  in  such  places?" 
groaned  Perrin,  with  a  most  disconsolate  look. 
"  Why,  how  did  you  suppose  it  was  done  ? " 
I  inquired.  "  Well,  by  sorting  over  the  gravel, 
and  picking  out  the  lumps  of  gold."     So  far 


SE^TRE    LAWS.  185 

from  such  a  prospect,  I  think  it  will  be  real- 
izing the  truth  of  the  old  proverb  to  its  fullest 
extent  —  ",  Whosoever  will  find  gold  must  cug!' 

28th.  —  There  are  said  to  be  about  twenty 
thousand  souls  in  this  place  or  about  it,  all 
striving  and  hoping  to  amass  a  handsome  pile 
of  the  golden  ore. 

Our  first  object  was  to  proceed  to  the  camp 
of  the  English  commissioner  for  license,  bav- 
in s;  been  informed  that  the  res^ulations  were 
very  severe  ;  so  much  so,  that  any  one  remain- 
ing in  Ballerat  over  a  certain  length  of  time, 
without  a  license,  was  liable  to  a  heavy  fine, 
imprisonment,  or  to  be  put  to  work  on  the 
pubhc  roads.  \ye  found  him  a  middle  aged, 
good-natured  man,  but  not  deficient  in  the 
inexorable  rigidity  seemingly  requisite  for  an 
EnscHsh  oificial.  To  our  statement  that  we 
had  hardly  sufficient  in  our  pockets  to  provide 
food  for  our  daily  necessities,  he  listened  civil- 
ly, and  replied  briefly,  that  any  modification 
of  the  law  vras  impossible.  Finding  that  nei- 
ther argument  nor  entreaty  availed  any  thing, 
w^e   promised   ten   dollars   each  for  a  printed 

16=^ 


186  CAIVIP    GROUND. 

license,  which  would  give  us  permission  to 
w^ork  fifteen  days  in  one  month,  and  the  whole 
of  another. 

Having  passed  this  disagreeable  ordeal,  the 
next  thought  w^as  a  ^lace  of  residence.  From 
the  commissioner's  camp  ground  we  had  a  view 
of  nearly  all  the  Flat  and  the  slopes  around  it. 
Below  w^as  the  "  city,"  a  collection  of  wdiite 
tents,  over  which  were  weaving  flags  of  various 
nations  —  the  signs  of  the  merchants  in  many 
instances.  These  are  displayed  upon  tall 
poles,  and  make  a  brilliant  display,  some  of 
them  being  quite  magnificent  in  proportion 
and  design. 

AYe  were  surprised  to  see  the  ^^  stars  and 
stripes "  outnumbering  the  banners  of  any 
other  nation  ;  indeed,  Ballerat  may  almost  be 
called  an  American  settlement,  so  numerous 
are  the  Yankees.  We  have  decided  to  en- 
camp somewhere  in  the  suburbs,  rather  than 
in  the  business  neighborhood,  and  accordingly 
turned  our  attention  to  the  brow  of  Black 
Hill,  where  the  trees  offer  their  grateful  shade? 
and  the  crest  of  the  hill  will  defend  us  from 
the  wind;  at  least  in  one  quarter. 


BALLERAT    BXSK.  187 

29tli.  —  We  have  planted  ourselves,  unmo- 
lested, upon  the  proposed  spot ;  have  stretched 
a  tent-pole  between  two  trees,  thrown  a  cloth 
over  it,  and  deposited  within  our  scanty  chat- 
tels, thus  establishing  ourselves  in  house-keep- 
ing in  our  own  private  mansion.  Finding 
advice  from  miners  of  little  account,  we  de- 
termined to  proceed  to  operations  in  our  own 
way.  Clark  and  Perrin  were  bent  upon  sinking 
a  shaft  near  our  tent ;  but,  thinking  them  fool- 
ish, I  shouldered  my  tools  and  went  to  the 
top  of  the  hill,  knoAvn  as  "  Ballerat  Bank,"  as 
an  industrious  miner  is  almost  always  sure 
of  moderate  wages  from  its  vault  of  dust. 
Things  I  must  confess,  appear  rather  dubious, 
for  it  seems  like  working  only  to  be  tantalized 
with  the  sight  of  immovable  rock,  that  has 
stood,  strata  underlying  strata,  since  the  world 
began,  and  with  a  fair  prospect  of  remaining 
till  the  end  of  time,  despite  the  efforts  of  puny 
man,  who  would  fain  turn  them  over  to  see 
if  gold  lies  at  the  bottom. 

November  5th.  —  Having  labored  upon  the 
hill  two  or  three  days  with  no  success,  I  aban- 


188  OUR    SUCCESS. 

donecl  the  project  as  hopeless,  and  turned  to 
a  deserted  pit  at  some  distance.  Around  the 
sides  and  bottom  of  this  I  did  better,  being 
fible,  at  the  close  of  the  first  day,  to  show  sev- 
eral dollars  of  the  dull-yellow  grains,  which  I 
had  extracted  from  earth  almost  as  hard  as 
stone.  Upon  this  my  two  partners  deserted 
their  shaft,  now  about  twenty  feet  deep,  and 
entered  the  cave  with  me ;  where  v/ e  made 
fair  wages,  accumulating  several  ounces  in  a 
little  time.  Some  Yankees  from  below,  hear- 
ing of  our  success,  and  supposing  we  were 
among  the  "lucky  ones,"  bound  to  succeed, 
invited  us  to  come  among  the  aristocracy  of 
the  Flat ;  that  is,  those  who  had  sufficient  capi- 
tal to  enable  them  to  sink  a  shaft. 

Being  somewhat  elated  by  our  recent  gains, 
we  yielded  to  their  solicitations,  and  organized 
a  party,  staking  out  a  claim  of  legal  dimen- 
sions,—  twelve  feet  square,  —  among  the  dig- 
gings on  Ballerat  Flat. 

The  gold  lies  in  a  very  crooked  gutter,  ap- 
parently the  bed  of  an  ancient  stream,  from 
fifty  to  a  hundred  feet  below  the  present  level. 
Thus,  by  a  vast  expenditure  of  labor,  as  uncer- 


JEALOUSY    OF    THE    :MINERS.  189 

tain  of  reward  as  a  lottery,  the  course  of  the 
gold  has  been  traced  upward  until  particles 
were  no  longer  found  grouped  together,  but 
scattered  too  thinly  to  pay  for  mining.  The 
same  has  been  done  in  the  opposite  direction. 
The  gold  is  usually  found  in  a  thin  stratum  of 
gravel,  below  the  white  layer,  called  the  "  pipe 
clay,"  lying  upon  the  living  rock. 

Some,  in  commencing  the  year  with  a  for- 
tune, have  lost  it  before  its  close  in  sinking- 
pits  to  no  purpose.  If  a  claim  is  successful, 
every  inch  of  ground  around  it  is  instantly 
taken  up,  and  a  ring  of  shafts  sunk,  in  the 
hope  of  obtaining  vast  quantities  of  the  ore. 
As  these  go  down,  the  jealous  miners  quarrel 
and  fight  over  fancied  encroachments,  and  the 
commissioner — the  authority  in  all  such  cases 
—  has  to  measure  the  precious  earth  over  and 
over  again.  No  one  group  of  shafts  can  be 
carried  down  faster  than  another  without  drain- 
ing them ;  and  as  most  are  too  selfish  to  aid 
others,  they  have  to  proceed  with  about  the 
same  degree  of  rapidity.  Probably  not  more 
than  one  shaft  in  four,  certainly,  pays  any 
thing  at  all. 


190  FATAL   ACCIDENTS. 

December  23d.  —  The  life  I  have  led  for 
some  time  past  being  unfavorable  to  journal- 
izing, I  have  dispensed  with  it  altogether ;  and 
now,  in  a  season  of  comparative  quiet,  I  pro- 
pose to  review  these  past  scenes  and  varied 
experiences. 

The  claim  which  we  opened  proving  very 
wet,  we  gave  it  up  after  sinking  it  a  few  feet, 
and  selected  another  in  a  dry  spot,  further 
down  the  valley.  Having  carried  this  down  as 
far  as  practicable,  without  siding,  we  made  an 
expedition  into  the  woods  for  the  purpose  of 
obtaining  material  requisite  for  the  purpose. 
This  is  necessary  for  the  safety  of  the  miners, 
as  well  as  for  excluding  water.  The  Flat 
abounds  in  quicksands  and  singular  subterra- 
nean collections  of  water,  which  often  burst 
suddenly  upon  the  workmen  while  under 
ground,  and  in  spite  of  all  their  efforts  at  pro- 
tection are  almost  certainly  fatal.  Many  such 
accidents  occurred  to  our  knowledge,  by  one 
of  which  seven  men  lost  their  lives  at  once. 
Some  of  the  bodies  were  never  recovered, 
remaining  buried  near  the  treasures  they  had 
soudit.     Others   rose   to    the   surface   of    the 


OPERATIONS    SUDDENLY    STOPPED.  191 

blu8-pit  water,  and  were  wrapped  either  in 
their  tent  cloth  or  bed  clothes,  and  buried  in 
the  '^  Potter's  Field,"  a  place  serving  as  a  rude 
cemetery  for  the  city. 

The  woods  near  Ballerat  have  been  so 
thoroughly  searched  for  suitable  trees,  that  we 
traveled  two  miles  before  finding;  one.  The 
gum  trees,  of  which  there  are  several  varieties, 
are  the  principal  timber  trees  of  Australia. 
Almost  all  the  trees  of  the  country  are  trav- 
ersed throughout  their  substance  by  irregular 
knots  and  veins  of  gum ;  most  plentiful  and 
troublesome,  however,  in  the  gum  trees  proper, 
which  are  sometimes  so  hard  as  almost  to 
blunt  iron  instruments.  When  we  had  nearly 
completed  our  operations,  Clark,  our  chief  reli- 
ance in  the  mechanical  department,  struck  an 
unlucky  blow  with  his  ax ;  the  heavy  blade 
glanced,  and  struck  deep  into  his  foot. 

We  bandaged  it  with  handkerchiefs ;  formed 
a  rough  litter,  and  transported  our  unlucky 
mate  to  our  tent  on  the  brow  of  the  hill ;  sent 
for  a  physician,  who  gave  us  very  little  conso- 
lation in  saying  that  he  would  be  laid  aside,  at 
least,  three  months.     We  could  not  prosecute 


192  GOLD    HILL. 

our  efforts  further,  as  neither  of  us  could  fill 
his  place,  and  we  therefore  concluded  to  retreat 
and  make  another  attempt,  as  no  time  was  to 
be  lost.  We  went  up  and  down  the  neighbor- 
hood, in  wet  places  and  in  dry ;  sometimes  in 
our  old  cavern  in  Ballerat  Bank,  and  sometimes 
in  old  claims  on  the  Flat. 

I  spent  several  profitable  and  exceedingly 
perilous  days  in  Gold  Hill,  so  called,  where  I 
descended  some  fifteen  or  twentv  feet  throuo^h 
an  old  shaft,  and  found  mvself  amid  darkness 
so  profound  that  I  could  do  nothing,  till  my 
eyes  became  accustomed  to  the  fearful  gloom. 
Then,  with  such  a  scanty  light  as  I  could  strike 
up,  I  went  creeping  about,  hither  and  thither, 
in  the  vast  cavernous  regions,  sometimes  twenty- 
five  feet  in  hight,  and  again  so  low,  one  could 
only  work  his  way  with  great  difficulty.  It 
has  been  gradually  worked  out  above  the  gold- 
bearing  strata,  and  is  supported  by  earthy  pil- 
lars, cut  away  to  a  size  as  slender  as  fear  of 
instant  death  would  allow.  Here  and  there, 
as  I  dared  I  broke  pieces  from  the  portion 
of  earth  which  formed  the  basis  of  these  pil- 
lars, crushed    them   in   my  hands,  extracting 


ANOTHER    JOURNEY.  193 

the  precious  grains  as  tlie  rich  reward  of  my 


coura£!:e. 


While  at  work  afterward  in  the  yellow, 
muddy  water  of  Ballerat  Creek,  washing  the 
gravelly  portion  which  the  miners  had  washed 
before  me,  I  fell  in  with  a  young  fellow  named 
Fessenden,  pursuing  the  same  elegant  occupa- 
tion as  mj'self  In  the  course  of  conversation 
he  told  me  of  his  desire  to  visit  certain  new 
openings  on  the  Wardy-allock  stream,  about 
twenty  miles  distant.  Before  we  parted,  we 
entered  into  an  aorreement  to  start  toQ:ether  in 
quest  of  a  richer  mine. 

Providing  myself  with  provisions  and  tools, 
and  having  notified  Perrin  of  my  intention, 
and  placed  Clark  and  the  household  under  his 
charge  until  my  return,  we  set  off  next  morn- 
ing on  foot.  After  a  toilsome  march  over  a 
Yery  mountainous  and  difficult  road,  we  found 
ourselves  at  the  creek,  in  a  small  ravine  or 
"canon"  among  the  mountain  defiles,  not  far 
from  the  great,  unexplored,  interior  desert,  and 
full  sixty-five  miles  from  Ballerat,  instead  of 
twenty.  About  a  hundred  persons  were  gath- 
ered there,  but  to  our  inexpressible  chagrin, 
^         17 


194  EXPLOKATIONS. 

we  found  there  was  no  gold  worth  gathering. 
A  few  shepherds,  who  had  remained  there 
through  the  rainy  season,  had  found  a  scanty 
deposit  in  a  ravine,  the  exaggerated  fame  of 
which  had  drawn  many  to  the  spot  only  to  be 
deceived.  Such  reports  are  purposely  circu- 
lated by  the  traders,  who  make  a  good  specula- 
tion from  the  needs  of  the  improvident  and 
humbugged  people  whom  they  cheat  into  their 
neighborhood.  As  a  general  thing,  provisions 
are  only  provided  for  the  journey,  and  this 
being  three  times  as  long  as  is  expected,  they 
are  compelled  to  repair  to  the  shops  to  obtain 
necessities,  on  their  arrival. 

Having  no  particular  engagement,  Fessenden 
and  myself  agreed  to  take  advantage  of  the 
trip  into  the  remote  and  almost  unexplored 
neighborhood,  to  ramble  about  in  the  solitudes 
of  the  Australian  forests.  Among  these  wild 
ranges  of  rough  and  wooded  hills  there  are  no 
inhabitants,  not  even  "  natives,"  and  the  kanga- 
roos sport  at  pleasure.  Of  these  there  are 
different  species,  some  being  no  larger  than  a 
dog ;  others  as  large  in  size  as  a  man. 

After  some  days  of  this  desultory  wandering, 


FRUITLESS   EXPEDITION.  195 

we  bethought  ourselves  of  the  land  we  had  left, 
and  souo-ht  to  regrain  it  in  the  same  manner 
we  had  come  —  on  foot.  We  had  seen  the 
country,  but  made  no  money,  and  contracted 
severe  colds,  which  made  us  well  nigh  sick ; 
having  had  no  covering  except  the  rude  boughs 
which  constituted  our  wigwam,  and  through 
which  the  rain  poured  more  copiously  than 
we  could  have  wished.  We  started  at  early 
morn,  and  followed  a  route  of  our  own  selec- 
tion, which  we  judged  would  bring  us  over  the 
skirts  of  Mount  Mercy  into  a  direct  path. 

The  sun  was  not  visible ;  we  had  no  com- 
pass ;  and  the  result  of  our  experiment  was, 
that  after  crossing  an  infinite  variety  of  hills, 
ravines,  swamps,  thickets,  and  woods,  we  met 
two  men,  whom  we  recognized  as  friends  in 
the  place  from  whence  we  had  escaped.  We 
inquired,  with  surprise,  how  they  came  to  be 
traveling  from  the  direction  of  Ballerat,  and 
in  reply  found,  to  our  greater  astonishment, 
that  it  was  ourselves  in  that  course,  beinor 
only  two  miles  from  Wardy-allock  diggings, 
with  a  prospect  of  reaching  them.  We  had 
been  turned  about  in  the  woods,  and  made 


196  RETURN    TO    BALLERAT. 

almost  a  complete  circle.  Desirous  of  avoid- 
ing the  awkward  inquiries  we  knew  must 
await  us  if  we  went  forward,  we  at  once 
turned  our  steps,  and  late  at  night  encamped 
on  the  verge  of  the  Australian  desert,  under 
a  gum  tree.  In  the  distance  we  discerned  the 
ungainly  mass  of  Mount  Elephant,  and  the  stock 
road  to  Adelaide,  leading  across  the  plain. 

On  the  morning  of  the  fourth  day  we 
reached  Ballerat,  in  no  w^ise  richer  than  when 
we  went ;  but  I  found,  to  my  pleasurable  sur- 
prise, that  Clark's  foot  had  entirely  healed  in 
my  absence,  and  that  he  was  able  to  walk 
nearly  as  w^ell  as  ever.  Perrin  had  paid  ex- 
penses by  collecting  grains  of  gold,  and  by 
adventures  in  his  profession  of  peddling,  and 
besides  had  done  considerable  business  as  a 
sort  of  commission  agent,  by  procuring  for  his 
customers  any  commodity  they  might  desire. 
His  stock  consisted  usually  of  silk  dresses  and 
ladies'  shoes — articles  that,  it  would  seem, 
would  find  rather  a  dull  market  in  a  community 
of  miners;  but  there  were  thousands  of  women, 
a  large  proportion  of  whom  w^ere  profuse  in  ex- 
penditures for  dress.     Our  party  of  three  being 


PLEASANT   SURPRISE.  197 

now  reunited^  it  again  became  a  matter  of 
serious  consultation  as  to  the  best  method  of 
pushing  our  fortunes.  Thus  far  we  had  done 
but  Uttle  more  than  to  gain  our  bare  subsist- 
ence. While  wandering  rather  disconsolately 
about  Ballerat  Flat,  considering  the  question, 
I  saw,  at  a  little  distance  before  me,  a  tall 
figure,  which  I  thought  I  recognized  as  a 
fellow-townsman  ;  and,  upon  approaching  near- 
er, discovered,  to  my  delight,  that  the  well- 
proportioned  figure  and  fine  features  were 
none  other  than  those  of  Captain  W.,  who 
had  come  out  to  Australia  with  a  heavy  in- 
voice of  Colt's  revolvers.  He  had  tried  in 
vain  to  efiect  sales  in  Melbourne,  and  had 
come  to  the  mines  hoping  to  find  private  sales, 
but  was  disappointed  at  every  point,  the  mar- 
ket being  forestalled  by  clumsy  English  arms. 

I  forgot  for  a  time  my  distress,  in  the 
pleasure  of  hearing  of  matters  and  things  at 
home ;  but  once  again  alone,  necessity  pressed 
itself  upon  me  ;  and  we  determined  to  put  up 
a  canvas  house,  obtain  a  stock  of  goods,  and 
try  the  mercantile  business.  As  we  were 
about  negotiating   for  the  same,  dow^n   came 

17* 


198  GOING    INTO    THE    COFFIN    BUSINESS. 

the  '^  fifty-pound  license  law  "  upon  us,  effectu- 
ally dampening  our  ardor  in  this  direction,  for 
we  had  scarcely  this  sum  among  us  all.  At 
this  juncture,  I  suddenly  recollected  there  was 
not  in  the  whole  city  of  Ballerat,  to  my  knowl- 
edge, a  single  undertaker  or  coffin  maker, 
while  deaths  were  of  daily  occurrence.  The 
thing  was  decided  at  once.  Undertakers  would 
have  no  license  to  pay ;  and  we  immediately 
sent  for  lumber  from  Melbourne  ]  threw  out 
a  sepulchral-looking  w^hite  flag  to  the  breeze, 
upon  which  was  displayed  a  black  coffin,  form- 
ing a  striking  contrast  to  the  gay  streamers  all 
about  it.  The  day  after  this  we  had  an  order 
from  the  friends  of  a  New  England  man,  but 
could  only  meet  it  by  buying  some  old  shelves 
of  a  dry  goods  store  at  half  a  dollar  the  run- 
ning foot.  Not  long  after,  the  lumber  came 
from  Melbourne,  at  twenty-five  cents  a  foot, 
and  twenty-five  dollars  cartage  for  a  dray  load. 
We  have  averaged  one  coffin  a  day  at  prices 
from  eight  pounds  to  seventeen,  which  latter 
were  finished  in  English  style. 

Deaths  in  Ballerat  are  almost  all  from  acci- 
dent  or   dysentery.      Fevers   are   almost   un- 


HOUSEKEEPING.  199 

known  in  the  pure  and  bracing  air  of  Australia. 
The  former  disease  is  doubtless  induced  by  the 
bad  water  which  all  are  obliged  to  use.  The 
majority  are  in  the  habit  of  supplying  them- 
selves from  the  yellow,  muddy  creek,  or  the 
blue  water  of  the  old  shafts.  Tlie  more  par- 
ticular bring  what  they  use  from  the  singular 
"  lagoons/'  as  they  are  called,  that  are  fre- 
quently found  in  the  vicinity  on  the  tops  of 
high  hills,  about  a  mile  from  our  abode. 

How  refreshing  would  be  a  draught  of  our 
good  old  New  England  streams,  that  come 
trickling  down  the  mountain  sides,  mirroring 
the  trees  and  flowers  on  their  banks  in  their 
transparent  bosoms  ! 

The  duties  of  housekeeping,  which  devolve 
mainly  upon  me,  together  wutli  those  of  my 
business,  keep  my  time  occupied  through  the 
day.  I  think  I  shall  be  prepared  to  appreciate, 
very  sensibly,  the  labors  of  faithful  housewives, 
though  the  well-appointed  machinery,  the  full 
storeroom  and  larders  which  they  deem  so  ne- 
cessary to  their  comfort  and  convenience,  make 
it  vastly  easier  than  the  rude  implements  of 
our  wigwam,  and  scanty  materials  for  cooking. 


CHAPTER    X. 

ADVENTURES   IN     BALLERAT.  —  VISIT    CRESWICK     CREEK. 

POWER  OF  KINDNESS    OVER    CONVICTS. WALKING 

LEAVES.  —  LEAVE  BALLERAT  FOR  CALLAO. —  HISTORY 
OF    AUSTRALIA. 

The  great  desideratum  of  all  travelers  who 
are  wealthy  enough  to  pay  large  prices  every 
where,  both  by  land  and  sea,  is  fresh  pro- 
visions. We  had  not  the  "available  substance/* 
and  besides,  we  had  seen  the  time  when  money 
could  not  have  procured  for  us  the  "  nutritious 
elements "  as  we  desired,  had  we  been  able  to 
offer  it  ever  so  lavishly.  In  default  of  these 
things,  we  found  vinegar,  or  any  thing  made 
with  it,  was  eaten  with  a  relish  almost  like  that 
induced  by  famine,  and  was  invaluable  as  op- 
posing the  evil  effects  of  long-continued  salt  diet. 
Having  gathered  some  experience  on  this  point, 
one  of  my  first  undertakings,  upon  establish- 
ing myself  at  Ballerat,  was  to  set  up  a  vinegar 

(200) 


HOP   BEER.  201 

3-ard  —  not  a  large  piece  of  ground,  with  long 
rows  of  casks,  but  merely  and  singly  an  old 
bottle,  into  which  I  put  tea  leaves  and  coffee 
grounds,  filled  it  with  sweetened  water,  and 
hung  it  upon  one  of  the  trees  about  our  home, 
w^here  it  might  be  exposed  to  the  sun.  In 
three  or  four  days  I  had  a  bottle  of  clear  and 
sharp  vinegar,  which  was  used  wuth  the  great- 
est appreciation,  not  only  at  our  own  table,  but 
at  those  of  others,  whom  I  occasionally  favored 
with  a  sour  gift.  Another  successful  enterprise 
w\as  the  making  of  hop  beer.  Perrin,  in  some 
of  his  wanderings  or  commission  errands,  dis- 
covered a  small  quantity  of  hops,  sent  up  on 
commission,  and  for  which  there  seemed  no 
possible  use.  These  I  eagerly  procured — boiled 
them,  "  using  my  judgment,"  as  v/omen  say,  in 
the  quantity  of  water,  &c.,  but  was  utterly  at 
a  loss  for  appropriate  flavor.  As  an  experi- 
ment, I  threw  in  a  quantity  of  ginger  and 
cayenne  pepper  ;  dissolved  separately  two 
ounces  of  soda,  and  one  of  cream  tartar,  stir- 
ring in  first  the  alkali  and  then  the  acid ;  and 
strange  as  it  may  seem,  in  a  day  or  two  it  be- 
came  a   perfect   nectar,  for   excellence.     The 


202  AN    ACQUISITION. 

pepper,  about  which  I  had  many  misgivings, 
was  the  perfect  "  arcanum "  of  its  glory.  We 
drank  moderately  ourselves,  and  now  and  then 
presented  a  bottle  to  some  lady,  or  particular 
friend,  w^tli  a  feeling  of  generosity  such  as 
Prince  Metternich  might  experience  in  sending 
a  dozen  of  real  Johannisbergs  to  an  intimate 
autocrat.  In  truth,  it  Vv^as  even  more  choice, 
for  the  water  at  Ballerat  could  scarcely  be 
drank  at  all,  without  being  boiled  into  tea  or 
coffee,  and  even  then  it  was  poor  enough. 

The  keen,  Yankee  inquisitiveness  of  Perrin 
was  often  of  great  service  to  me.  "  Grand  news 
I  have  brought  to  j^ou,"  said  he,  one  day,  which 
turned  out  to  be,  that  a  quarter  cask  of  Indian 
meal  was  to  be  found  at  a  certain  grocery.  All 
my  New  England  remembrances  came  upon 
me,  from  the  dear  delights  of  hearthstone  and 
friends,  down  to  Johnny  cake  and  Indian  pud- 
ding. Chiefly  stimulated  by  animal  considera- 
tions, however,  I  repaired  at  once  to  the  spot, 
saw  the  treasure  as  it  had  been  described,  in- 
quired about  it,  carelessly  and  in  an  indifferent 
manner,  bought  it  for  a  mere  song,  and  bore  it 
home  in  triumph. 


HIGH   PRICES.  203 

It  had  come  thither  no  one  knew  exactly 
how,  had  stood  no  one  knew  how  long,  having 
escaped  the  eyes  of  the  Yankees,  and  no  one 
else  knew  how  to  use  it.  It  was,  indeed,  some- 
what mingled  with  moth  webs,  but  it  was, 
nevertheless,  a  magnificent  discovery  to  us, 
and  a  most  welcome  change. 

Provisions  of  every  description  are  at  "  gold 
prices"  at  Ballerat  —  flour,  sixty  dollars  a  bar- 
rel ;  pies,  one  dollar  each ;  eggs,  half  a  dollar 
singly,  and  other  things  in  proportion ;  vegeta- 
bles are  particularly  scarce  and  costly. 

Longing  one  day  for  something  that  came 
from  the  earth,  I  went  in  search  of  some  greens. 
I  succeeded  to  my  great  satisfaction,  bringing 
home  a  good  bag  of  common  dock ;  which  I 
boiled,  salted,  buttered,  vinegared,  and  pep- 
pered, —  producing  a  dish,  as  we  thought,  wor- 
thy a  king.  Clark,  however,  like  an  obstinate 
fellow,  insisted  that  the  "royal  mess"  might  be 
poisonous,  and  therefore  refused  to  taste  it ; 
but  knowing  that  his  scruples  would  only  be 
our  gain,  we  exhorted  him  but  little.  I  at 
once  communicated  the  knowledge  to  my 
neighbors ;  from  which  time,  the  dock-digging 


204  CHRISTMAS    REJOICINGS. 

business  was  so  strenuously  prosecuted  as  en- 
tirely to  extirpate  the  weed  for  a  considerable 
distance  round. 

2 9 til.  Christmas  day  was  observed  as  one 
of  general  jubilee,  especially  by  the  English, 
whom  I  have  every  where  observed  to  enjoy 
their  national  holidays  to  the  utmost,  wherever 
they  may  be,  especially  if  the  rough  side  of 
life  be  their  daily  lot.  For  two  whole  days 
w^ork  was  superseded,  and  low  and  uproarious 
proceedings,  by  way  of  rejoicing,  were  seen  in 
every  part  of  the  city.  There  is  no  lack  of 
places  of  amusement,  many  of  the  largest  tents 
being  exclusively  ball  and  concert  rooms.  My 
own  part  of  the  "celebration"  consisted  of  a 
pleasant  interview  with  Mrs.  Haynes,  a  particu- 
lar friend,  and  a  dinner  of  the  combined  na- 
tionalities of  baked  beans  and  plum  pudding. 
I  attended  divine  service,  and  while  rambling 
through  the  streets  afterward,  I  was  hailed 
from  one  of  the  tents  with  "Well,  mate  !"  in  a 
sharp,  decided  voice. 

On  looking  around  me,  I  discovered  that  I 
had  been  addressed  by  an  Australian  magpie, 


^^OLI:NT  iiurricine.  205 

a  black  and  white  bird  very  nearly  resembling 
a  bobolink;  and  having  a  capacity  for  distinct 
articulation  far  surpassing  the  parrot.  '-  Yv^ell 
mate/'  cried  the  saucy  bird  again,  as  I  turned 
and  approached  its  cage,  adding,  with  profane 

emphasis, "  0,  you  d d  fool !"     I  left,  but  he 

shouted  after  me  in  triumph,  with  the  same  pro- 
fane expressions,  till  I  was  quite  out  of  hearing. 
A  fearful  hurricane  of  hot  wind  has  swept  over 
us,  so  strong  and  stifling  as  entirely  to  prevent 
work  in  the  open  air  for  a  time.     I  vv^as  sitting 
at  my  tent  door  when  the  heavy  black  clouds 
arose.     They  swept  down  from  the  mountains, 
coming   near    the    earth,   seemingly   encircled 
with  a  wreath  of  fire,  that  looked  more  like  a 
conflao^ration  than  electricitv ;  so  hot  and  load- 
ed  with  sand,  we  were    forced    to   cover  our 
faces  in  our  bed  clothes  till  the  strength  of  the 
blast  was    spent.     All  day  long  this  state   of 
things    continued,   though   with    intervals    of 
calm,  making  breathing  almost  misery.     A  few 
da3's  of  such  burning    sirocco  would    destroy 
the  whole    city.     As  it   is,  many  of  the  frail 
edifices   of  the   miners  are  among^  the  thino^s 
that  tvere,  but  are  not.     Nearly  fifty  tents  were 

18 


206  SPECULATIONS    ON    THE    SIROCCO. 

torn  up  and  blown  away  during  the  day  ;  some 
of  them  so  suddenly  that  the  surprised  inmates 
were  left  seated  at  their  tables  in  the  open  air. 

Our  own  was  only  preserved  stationary  by 
means  of  ropes  thrown  over  and  attached  to 
piles  of  lumber  on  either  side.  The  storm  has 
swept  wide,  leaving  a  broad  path  of  desolate 
blackness  behind  it.  No  one  is  able  to  speak 
satisfactorily  of  the  origin  and  nature  of  these 
destructive  tornadoes.  Some  affirm  that  it 
comes,  bearing  heat  and  fire  from  some  burn- 
ing forest  at  a  distance. 

Others  say  the  qualities  are  electrical  only, 
and  that  the  storm  was  generated  somewhere 
within  the  unkno^vn  depths  of  the  great  inte- 
rior desert;  but  the  m^^sterious  and  wisely- 
regulated  laws  of  the  great  forces  of  nature 
are  poorly  understood  by  us  in  our  ignorance. 

Man  may  create  ingenious  theories,  specu- 
late and  w^onder,  and  only  come  at  last  to  see 
that  it  is  pitiable  folly. 

January  6th,  1854.  —  Times  growing  rather 
dull,  and  Clark  and  myself  being  weary  of  such 
a  monotonous  life  in  one  place,  w^e  started  for 


TREES    OF   AUSTRALLi.  207 

Creswick  Creek,  about  fourteen  miles  distant 
from  Yankee  Hill.  The  walk  was  exceedingly 
pleasant  over  gently-undulating  ground,  and 
through  forests,  most  of  which  are  compara- 
tively open  and  pleasant.  All  the  Australian 
trees  are  evergreen ;  a  large  proportion,  how- 
ever, undergoing  a  sort  of  equivalent  annual 
change  in  shedding  their  bark.  Nearly  all  the 
leaves  are  lanceolated  with  slight  variations, 
and  although,  in  general,  they  are  set  very 
thickly  upon  the  tree,  they  yet  offer  little 
shade,  as  they  stand  edgewise,  and  therefore 
oppose  only  the  thickness  of  the  leaf  to  the 
rays  of  the  sun. 

A  singular  and  frequent  shrub  in  swamps 
and  low  grounds  is  the  grass  tree,  which  con- 
sists of  a  radiatino;  bunch  of  leaves  like  a 
coarse  grass,  from  the  midst  of  which  rises  a 
straight,  woody  stem,  five  or  six  feet  in  height, 
surmounted  with  a  hard,  close  head,  resembling 
the  New  Eno;land  "  cat-tail." 

AYe  arrived  at  Creswick  about  sunset,  and 
camped  in  sight  of  the  diggings.  At  a  small 
trading  stand  where  I  went  to  purchase  some 
provisions,  I  met  an  old  man,  who,  with  some 


208  THE    CONVICTS. 

of  his  boon  companions,  was  sipping  the  in- 
toxicating cup.  I  fell  into  conversation  with 
him,  and  found  him  to  be  a  "  lag,"  or  convict 
transported  from  England.  Although  some- 
what elevated  with  drink,  he  yet  conversed 
shrewdly,  and  I  soon  became  interested  in  him 
and  his  fortunes.  He  offered  me  a  home  in 
his  tent,  and  freedom  to  draw  from  his  well- 
fdled  purse,  as  I  might  need.  This  confidence, 
touching  and  unlimited,  was  gained  simply  by 
the  power  of  kindness,  by  treating  him  as  a 
friend,  instead  of  showing  contempt  for  the 
convict.  I  doubt  not  there  are  many,  among 
the  numerous  convict  population,  who,  by  kind 
and  humane  treatment,  might  be  reformed, 
and  become  useful  citizens. 

They  possess  many  good  qualities,  are  open- 
hearted,  boundlessly  generous  among  them- 
selves and  those  whom  they  recognize  as 
friends,  but  hopeless,  reckless,  and  dangerous 
while  treated  continually  as  criminals  and  out- 
casts. Returning  to  my  tent  one  evening,  I 
found,  under  one  of  the  trees  near,  a  woman 
apparently  about  forty  years  of  age,  smoking. 
I  gave  her  a  civil  salutation,  conversed  with  her 


TOUCHING    INSTANCE    OF    GRATITUDE.  209 

« 

a  few  moments,  and  went  my  way.  About  mid- 
night she  came  to  the  tent,  put  her  head  in- 
side, and  asked,  "  Is  the  laddie  here  who  spoke 
so  kindly  to  me  to-night  ?  "  "  Yes/'  I  replied. 
"  Well  !  bless  his  kind  heart/'  said  she,  "  I  have 
come  here  to  thank  him  for  the  kind  words  he 
spoke.  They  were  the  first  I  have  heard  for 
many  a  long  year.  I  came  in  the  night  for 
fear  the  police  would  take  me.  I'm  a  poor 
creature.  Once  I  was  a  happy  woman;  but  I 
did  wrong,  and  they  sent  me  away  with  the 
worst  of  rogues,  and  now  I  am  as  bad  as  any 
of  them.  God  bless  you,  my  sweet  laddie,  and 
keep  you  from  leading  such  a  miserable  life." 
I  scarcely  knew  w^hat  reply  to  make  to  this 
outpouring  of  thankfulness  from  the  unhappy 
being,  but  offered  a  few  words  more  to  cheer 
her  troubled  spirit.  At  two  o'clock  the  next 
night  she  came  again,  with  a  bottle  of  brandy 
as  a  present  to  her  "  laddie."  I  conversed  with 
her  for  a  short  time,  when  she  departed  for 
fear  of  recognition  by  the  police,  and  I  never 
saw  her  more.  Scarcely  any  thing  is  more 
powerful  among  men  than  kindness  and  sym- 
pathy.    They  subdue  a  heart  into  gentleness 


210  ABORIGINES. 

"when  sterner  means  would  only  harden  into 
insensibility,  or,  what  is  worse,  give  the  rein 
to  unbridled  passion. 

Near  the  mines  at  Creswick  were  encamped 
a  small  party  of  Australian  natives  —  lank, 
"  walnut-headed,"  almost  black,  and  the  most 
brazen  and  insatiable  beggars  imaginable. 
They  were  extravagantly  fond  of  our  tea, 
coffee,  tobacco,  and  sugar,  and  knew  English 
sufficiently  to  make  known  their  wants.  Any 
thing  that  was  given  was  instantly  secured 
in  their  mouths  or  girdles,  and  the  same  im- 
portunity manifested  the  second  time,  and  so 
on  till  our  patience  was  exhausted.  The  na- 
tives up  the  coast,  in  the  neighborhood  of 
Sidney  and  farther,  are  said  to  be  much  more 
dangerous,  revenging  upon  every  white  for 
the  wrongs  they  have  suffered  from  the  early 
emigrants  into  that  region.  The  race,  howev- 
er, is  nearly  extinct. 

The  mines  in  Creswick  are  either  in  very 
wet,  low  land,  in  shafts  from  ten  to  thirty  feet 
deep,  or  in  chalk  hills  of  greater  depth,  where 
the  fine,  white  dust  is  intolerable,  almost  suf- 
focating,   and   exceedingly    unhealthy.      The 


RETURN    TO    BALLERAT.  211 

miners  come  from  their  work  at  night,  hke  a 
regiment  of  ghosts,  perfectly  white,  and  indis- 
tinguishable as  to  featm^es  or  garments.  We 
spent  one  day  in  j)^cking  away  at  a  half- 
melted  conglomeration,  where  every  blow 
jarred  our  systems  in  a  manner  not  altogether 
agreeable.  Thinking  such  efforts  quite  too 
severe  for  mere  speculation,  I  determined  to 
go  back  to  Ballerat.  Clark,  who  had  enough 
of  wilful  perseverance  to  keep  him  pecking 
on  Mount  Washino;ton  for  crold  till  the  dav  of 
his  death,  was  somewhat  enraged  at  this  de- 
cision, but  finally  acquiesced,  being  more  in- 
clined to  go  than  to  remain  alone.  Next 
morning  we  returned  with  the  reflection  up- 
permost in  our  minds  that  a  "rolling  stone 
gathers  no  moss." 

It  was  during  this  return  from  the  Creek, 
we  saw  the  celebrated  "walkino;  leaves,"  so 
called.  While  sitting  under  the  shade  of  some 
gum  trees,  a  slight  breeze  passed  by,  which 
brouD;ht  to  the  ground  a  httle  shower  of  leaves. 
After  lying  still  a  moment,  they  started,  and 
seemed  to  walk  upon  their  stems  toward  the 
trunk  of  the  tree.     It  is  said  that  some  years 


212  WALKING    LFAVES. 

ago,  before  Australia  was  much  settled,  a  party 
of  sailors  obtained  a  few  days  of  liberty  to 
make  explorations  upon  the  islands.  The 
first  day  of  their  adventure,  while  sitting  in  a 
grove  for  rest,  one  of  them  suddenly  cried  out, 
^' Let's  leave  this  place  at  once,  or  the  trees 
and  the  land  will  make  off  with  us.  See  those 
leaves  marching  off  on  their  stems  ! " 

The  evidence  of  their  senses  seemed  suf- 
ficient, and  there  could  be  no  doubt  of  the  in- 
ference. They  hastened  on  board  the  ship, 
preferring  to  lose  their  liberty  rather  than 
stay  in  a  region  of  such  doubtful  foundation. 
How  full  of  enigmas  is  nature  to  the  igno- 
rant and  superstitious,  making  them  fear  even 
her  happiest  and  richest  manifestations! 

16th.  —  Ballerat  is  filled  with  rumors  of 
newly-discovered  treasures  in  Peru,  at  the  head 
waters  of  the  Amazon,  where  twenty-five 
pound  "acquisitions"  are  of  every-day  occur- 
rence. The  Americans  are  very  much  ex- 
cited, and  hundreds  are  daily  starting  for  Mel- 
bourne, bound  for  Callao.  They  have  long 
been  dissatisfied  with  the   extortionate   regu- 


A   MASS    MEETING.  21 


o 


lations  of  the  English  government  here.  Some 
of  the  English  sympathize  with  this  restive 
feeling,  though  in  general  they  are  unani- 
mously arrayed  against  every  thing  and  every 
body  they  call  "  Yankee ;"  and  this  title  is  given 
to  every  one  that  comes  from  any  part  of 
North  America. 

We  have  had  a  mass  meeting  of  the  "  lovers 
of  freedom  and  just  legislation,"  at  which  were 
enthusiastic  speeches,  —  some  for  immediate 
action,  not  very  plainly  indicated,  —  resulting 
mainly  in  the  adoption  of  several  fiery  resolu- 
tions concerning  ''fair  rejoresentation^'  &c. ;  and 
breaking  up  with  the  prevailing  sentiment, 
that  "Britons  never,  never  will  be  slaves." 
One  object,  evidently,  of  the  meeting  was 
to  retain,  if  possible,  the  great  numbers  that 
are  leaving ;  but  the  cry  has  gone  forth,  "  On 
for  Callao  !"  and  hundreds  are  rushing,  and 
will  still  continue  to  rush,  to  the  new  land  of 
golden  fame. 

We  are  not  uninfluenced  by  the  pervading 
spirit;  beside  a  coffin-bearing  flag,  on  a  tall 
pole,  in  a  distant  part  of  the  dij,  the  escutch- 
eon   of  an    opposition   establishment^   started 


214  DECISION   TO    LEAVE   BALLERAT. 

during  our  last  absence,  relieves  us  of  all  ap- 
prehensions that  our  departure  would  be  in- 
convenient to  the  community. 

Distant  and  unknown  regions  have  a  pecu- 
liar charm ;  and  who  would  not  see  as  much  as 
possible  of  this  wide  world  ?  Yes,  we  will  go. 
Houses  and  claims  are  a  drug  in  the  market  — 
worth  absolutely  nothing;  but  what  we  have 
shall  be  disposed  of  to  the  best  advantage,  and 
we  will  start  for  Melbourne,  though  it  seems, 
from  our  original  party,  I  have  not  a  single 
companion  to  accompany  me  on  my  wander- 
ings. Clark,  for  a  trifling  difference,  concludes 
to  remain  behind.  A  letter  from  Yates  and 
Harman,  whom  we  left  at  the  Isle  of  France, 
informs  us  of  their  arrival  at  Bendigo,  Austra- 
lia, where  they  have  established  themselves  in 
business,  as  partners  in  a  cookie  stand,  clearing 
a  net  profit  of  five  dollars  a  day. 

We  have,  after  all,  done  better  than  the  ma- 
jority in  Ballerat,  having  paid  our  expenses, 
and  gained  some  real  estate,  —  at  least,  by 
miner's  title,  —  and  have  enough  to  carry  us 
to  Callao,  with  a  prospect  of  a  little  remainder. 
Probably  not  more  than  ten  per  cent,  of  the 


ON   THE   WAVE   AGAIN.  215 

miners  obtain  a  competency,  or  more  ;  half  the 
remainder  collect  sufficient  to  get  away  with, 
while  twenty-five  per  cent,  of  the  whole  die 
there,  at  home,  or  on  the  way  thither,  of  dis- 
eases contracted  here,  not  so  much  by  reason 
of  climate  as  the  manner  of  living,  which  is 
usually  reckless. 

20th.  —  The  step  is  taken,  and  we  are  on 
board  the  bark  Sacusa,  bound  for  Callao,  where 
I  have  plenty  of  leisure  to  review  the  past,  and 
consider  the  history  of  the  island  we  have  left. 

We  started  from  Ballerat  on  a  route  differ- 
ent from  that  which  carried  us  there ;  proceed- 
ing directly  across  the  country  instead  of  going 
by  Geelong. 

At  one  of  our  halting  places,  on  the  banks 
of  a  river,  a  fine  bridge  was  being  built,  and 
near  by  the  grading  for  a  railroad  was  com- 
menced. From  this  place  to  Melbourne  was  a 
handsome  stone  road,  built  chiefly  by  convict 
labor,  and  constructed  after  the  thorough  Eng- 
lish fashion ;  being  a  layer  of  rocks  of  consid- 
erable size,  carefully  laid,  firm  and  close,  a  sec- 
ond above  it  of  smaller  size,  and  so  on  until 


216  FARMING    SETTLEMENT. 

the  road  is  several  feet  thick,  and  finally  com- 
pleted with  a  thick  stratum  of  hard  gravel. 
Amono;  the  crowds  of  workmen  w^ho  were 
engaged  in  continuing  or  repairing  it,  were 
many  respectable,  intelligentrlooking  men,  per- 
haps voluntary  workmen.  Every  one  at  work 
on  the  road  claims  two  dollars  fifty  cents  per 
day  and  rations,  from  government ;  and  num- 
bers of  unsuccessful  miners  have  resorted  to 
this  method  as  a  surer  way  of  obtaining  gold, 
though  it  be  not  very  rapid. 

In  one  instance,  we  passed  through  a  settle- 
ment of  English  emigrants,  w^ho  live  by  farming 
and  providing  for  the  wants  of  miners,  who 
pass  through  the  district  on  their  way.  There 
was  neither  church,  school  house,  nor  store ; 
and  a  general  appearance  of  indifference  and 
sloth  about  the  whole  place  —  arising,  doubtless, 
from  the  fact,  that  none  owned  their  land,  it 
being  held  in  large  grants  by  noble  or  wealthy 
persons,  who  w^ill  not  sell,  and  who  lease  only 
on  terms  which  render  the  tenant  little  better 
than  a  serf  A  similar  state  of  thino^s  is  ob- 
structing  the  growth  of  almost  all  the  Austra- 
lian cities. 


HIGH    PRICE    OF   LAND.  217 

Building  lots  in  Melbourne  are  often  held  at 
from  fifty  to  one  hundred  thousand  dollars 
each,  and  rented  at  ten  thousand  a  year.  Land 
for  a  garden,  three  miles  out  of  the  city,  has 
sold  recently  for  eighty  thousand  dollars  an 
acre.     Prices  in  Adelaide  are  generally  high. 

Even  at  Ballerat  building  lots  were  sold  at 
auction,  some  distance  from  the  mines,  for 
fifteen  hundred  dollars  each.  The  idea  of  an 
emigrant  settling  upon  land  within  a  hundred 
miles  of  any  city,  is  out  of  the  question.  All 
good  land  within  that  distance,  if  not  beyond 
it,  is  granted  out  in  "runs,"  or  large  grazing 
farms,  which  cover  a  space  five  to  twenty 
miles  in  length,  including  not  only  all  the 
running  water,  but  all  the  "lagoons,"  ponds, 
and  springs,  of  any  value.  Without  unfailing 
sources  of  water,  land  in  Australia  would  be 
valueless. 

This  land  monopoly  is  the  source  of  much 
trouble ;  for  many  intelligent  men  who  have 
entered  the  countrv,  with  their  families,  have 
found  the  only  alternative  to  be,  to  hire  out  to 
keep  stock  under  these  wealthy  holders,  who, 

19 


218  A   PLEASANT    CHANGE. 

of  course,  take  advantage  of  the  necessity  to 
enhance  their  own  benefit. 

The  wide  streets  of  Melbourne  were  a  most 
welcome  sight  to  us,  after  our  confinement  to 
wild  forests  and  muddy  or  dusty  hills  or  plains. 
We  spent  the  time  allowed  us  in  visiting  places 
of  interest,  one  of  the  most  noticeable  of  which 
was  the  "  Emigrant's  Home."  This  was  estab- 
lished, with  the  aid  of  government,  by  a  few 
benevolent  men,  for  the  relief  and  assistance 
of  the  poor  and  suffering  among  this  class. 
There  are  several  large  buildings,  divided  into 
tenements  for  different  families,  with  a  phy- 
sician and  dispensary  attached.  Here  the  sick 
and  the  indigent  may  find  a  home  until  recov- 
ered from  disease,  or  find  employment.  A  sim- 
ilar, but  smaller,  institution  is  sustained  by  the 
Wesleyans,  and  devoted  exclusively  to  that  sect. 

We  also  found  great  pleasure  in  the  quiet 
solitudes  on  the  banks  of  the  Yarra  Yarra,  and 
in  visiting  the  splendid  public  gardens,  wander- 
ing about  the  walks,  admiring  the  graceful 
swans  in  the  pools,  and  the  spacious  green- 
houses, with  their  brilliant  and  valuable  con- 
tents. 


NATURAL   FEATURE.  219 

Australia,  as  a  whole,  may  be  well  styled  a 
"land  of  anomalies."  In  the  words  of  another 
writer,  "  The  whole  form,  character,  and  compo- 
sition of  this  country  are  so  singular,  that  a 
conjecture  is  hardly  hazarded  before  it  is  over- 
turned ;  every  thing  seems  to  run  counter  to 
the  ordinary  course  of  nature  in  other  coun- 
tries. In  other  lands,  the  rocks  and  reefs  that 
run  into  the  sea  determine,  in  many  cases,  the 
direction  and  continuity,  or  otherwise,  of  the 
mountain  systems ;  but  the  rocks  and  reefs  of 
Australia  afford  no  such  key  to  the  inquirer  — 
they  belong  not  to  geology  —  they  are  the 
work  of  the  coral  insect,  rising  perpendicularly 
from  the  depths  of  the  ocean  till  they  form 
ridges  and  islands  above  its  surface,  which  have 
nothing  in  common  with  any  thing  but  them- 
selves." 

The  most  remarkable  feature  in  the  Austra- 
lian coast  is,  the  total  absence  of  outlets  for 
any  large  rivers,  thus  making  the  freshness 
and  fertility  which  usually  attend  the  course 
of  these  "great  fertilizers,"  almost  unknown. 
Productive  soil  is  found  mostly  on  the  sides 
and   summits  of  considerable   elevations,  and 


220  PECULIARITIES. 

those  engaged  in  exploring  tours  to  the  inte- 
rior look  for  these  indications  of  mountain 
land,  with  a  longing  anxiety,  which  it  is  diffi- 
cult for  those  to  understand  who  dwell  in  more 
favored  lands.  Another  fact,  that  cannot  fail 
of  being  observed,  is,  that  these  spots,  con- 
fined to  the  higher  regions,  are  as  effectually 
separated  from  each  other  by  apparently  irre- 
deemable deserts,  as  though  the  ocean  flowed 
between  them. 

It  appears  probable,  however,  that  both  the 
land  and  water  are  still  in  a  course  of  forma- 
tion; that  the  various  anomalies,  in  each, 
which  fill  the  minds  of  so  many  with  wonder 
and  amazement,  are  only  the  natural  appear- 
ances of  an  imperfect,  or  rather  of  an  un- 
finished work,  and  that  they  will  vanish  when 
the  causes  now  in  operation  shall  have  pro- 
duced their  full  efiect. 

Writers  profess  to  hazard  these  conjectures 
with  much  caution,  and  only  because  they 
appear  to  result  from  the  facts  collected  by 
actual  observers. 

Botany  Bay,  at  its  south-eastern  point,  has 
received  its  name,  it  is  well  known,  from  the 


BOTANY    BAY.  221 

abundant  vegetation  which  the  early  discov- 
erers found  along  its  coast.  It  is  scarcely  less 
well  known,  that  the  first  attempt  at  coloniza- 
tion vfas  made  at  this  bay,  and  almost  im- 
mediately abandoned,  under  the  conviction 
that  its  soil  was  unprofitable  and  sterile.  Such 
conflicting  statements,  by  able  men,  seem 
strange  at  first  sight ;  but  investigation  shows 
them  to  grow  naturally  out  of  the  character 
of  the  Australian  botany,  which  is  as  peculiar 
as  most  other  things  in  this  region  of  pecu- 
liarities. "  Picturesque  and  pleasing,"  said  the 
considerate  pioneer,  but  "  something  more  than 
leauty  must  be  sought  in  a  place  where  the 
permanent  residence  of  multitudes  is  to  be 
established." 

The  physical  character  of  the  Australian 
himself  is  not  more  marked  by  a  general  in- 
feriority than  are  his  moral  and  intellectual 
attainments.  He  ranges  through  the  fields, 
like  man  in  his  primitive  state,  unclothed; 
possessing  not  the  smallest  knowledge  of  agri- 
culture, even  in  its  rudest  form ;  has  scarcely 
an  idea  of  arts  or  manufacture ;  indeed  he  may 
rather  be  considered  as  a  gregarious  than  a 

19* 


222  CHARACTERISTICS. 

social  animal;  for,  although  some  personal 
respect  is  sometimes  paid  to  a  kind  of  chief 
among  a  tribe,  it  would  seem  that  it  is  alto- 
gether personal,  and  independent  of  any  right, 
either  hereditary  or  elective. 

The  stupidity  of  their  nature  and  the  inert- 
ness of  their  faculties  are  evinced  by  their 
thoughtlessness  and  neglect  in  obtaining  food, 
or  to  obviate  those  incessantly  recurring  at- 
tacks of  famine  to  which  he  has  always  been 
exposed. 

Though  it  be  going  too  far,  probably,  to 
say  that  the  native  is  incapable  of  improve- 
ment, the  fair  presumption  seems  to  be,  that 
he  is  destined  to  remain  forever  in  the  lowest 
scale  of  civilization,  and  to  be  inferior  in  point 
of  comfort,  as  he  has  hardly  been  superior  in 
contrivance  hitherto,  to  many  of  the  lower 
animals. 

Although  the  Island  of  Australia,  naturally 
and  artificially,  presents  many  jagged  and 
rough  points,  yet,  like  every  part  of  God's 
dominions,  it  has  its  features  of  beauty  and 
interest,  and  its  part  to  serve  in  the  world's 
history. 


CHAPTER    XI. 

MONOTONY  OF  SEA  LIFE.  —  CHANGE  IN  TIME  BY  THE 
OMISSION  OF  ONE  DAY. — LANDING  AT  SOUTH  AMEK- 
ICA.  —  DISAPPOINTED  HOPES.  —  STAY  AT  LIMA. — 
ROMAN  FESTIVAL. 

22d.  —  Yesterday  we  sighted  Van  Diemen's 
Land.  We  are  making  south,  for  the  purpose 
of  rounding  the  southern  point  of  New  Zea- 
land and  gain  some  advantage  of  wind. 

Our  passengers  number  about  a  hundred, 
and  as  a  whole,  are  a  most  agreeable  class  of 
men  with  whom  to  travel.  They  are  chiefly 
Americans,  English,  and  Scotch  —  experienced 
travelers,  many  of  them  having  already  been 
to  California  in  search  of  gold,  and  still  pur- 
suing the  phantom  of  wealth  untiringly,  al- 
though the  frosts  of  many  winters  have  settled 
upon  them,  reminding  others,  if  not  them- 
selves, that  the  time  draws  near  when  earthly 
treasures  will  avail  them  nothing. 

(223) 


224  MONOTONY    OF   SEA   LIFE, 

Life  on  shipboard  has  in  it  much  of  sensu- 
ality. Eating  becomes  a  matter  of  primary 
and  absorbing  importance.  Monotony  and  lack 
of  occupation  conspire  with  sharp  sea  appe- 
tites to  make  the  daily  meals  absolutely  the 
chief  points  of  interest  during  the  day,  and 
these  present  arrangements  bid  fair  to  furnish 
something  more  worthy  of  rational  thought 
than  the  miserable  food  and  still  more  mis- 
erable conduct  on  the  Peytona^  which  was  in- 
deed a  disgrace  to  humanity. 

February  10th.  —  Since  my  last  record,  we 
have  had  a  comfortless  and  even  dangerous 
time,  by  reason  of  a  long-continued  gale,  which 
tossed  our  small  vessel  more  fearfully  than 
we  could  wish.  So  violent  was  the  ship's  mo- 
tion, it  was  impossible  to  leave  our  bunks; 
beside,  sundry  trunks  were  loosened  from  their 
hold,  and  were  sliding  about  the  cabin  in 
wild  confusion.  An  immense  retinue  of  small 
articles  almost  immediately  followed  —  things 
which  their  owners  had  unsuspectingly  secreted 
under  their  bunks,  or  laid  unfastened  upon 
shelves  above.     Plates,  demijohns,  jugs,  knives 


GAMBLING.  225 

and  forks,  boots  and  shoes,  cups  and  bottles  — 
miscellaneous  messes  of  beans,  rice,  &c.,  saved 
for  lunch  —  rolled  and  danced  over  the  floor  in 
the  most  indescribable  manner,  for  the  space 
of  twenty-four  hours,  while  the  gale  was  at  its 
hight. 

For  myself,  I  feel  a  positive  pleasure  in 
traveling  with  decent  people,  upon  a  re- 
sj)ectably  managed  ship.  We  are  not  over- 
crowded; things  in  the  main  are  satisfactory, 
and  all  things  go  on  harmoniously  from  day 
to  day,  without  those  soul-discomforting  events 
that  have  hitherto  tried  us. 

We  have,  however,  a  set  of  gamblers  on 
board ;  seemingly  professional  gentlemen  in 
that  line,  who  play  with  scarcely  an  inter- 
mission, except  for  their  meals ;  keeping  it  up 
not  only  during  the  day,  but  through  the 
night  also. 

Happily,  the  captain  will  not  allow  it  on 
the  Sabbath,  neither  any  other  amusement; 
and  we  have  the  grateful  intermission  of  at 
least  one  day. 

Since  the  return  of  fair  weather  our  ship's 
reckoning  has  been  altered,  according  to  the 
custom  of  mariners,  by  omitting  one  day. 


226  DROPPING    A    DAY. 

By  passing  around  the  world  eastward,  we 
should,  of  course,  for  each  thousand  miles  of 
the  whole  twenty-four  of  the  earth's  circum- 
ference, come  one  hour  sooner  to  sunrise,  and 
at  our  return  home  by  the .  same  route,  one 
day  having  as  it  were  slipped  backward  upon 
the  stationary  time  at  home,  would  have  passed 
over  twenty-four  full  hours,  and  w^ould  be  co- 
inciding again  with  home  time,  but  with  this 
difference :  we  should  be  callmg  it  by  the  name 
which  our  friends  had  used  for  the  day  before. 
Leaving,  then,  for  example,  on  Sunday,  we 
might  reach  home  on  that  day,  which  to  us 
would  be  Saturday,  obliging  us  to  omit  one 
day  in  our  date.  This  omission  is  made  for 
general  convenience  at  the  meridian  of  one 
hundred  and  eighty  degrees  longitude,  opposite 
the  initial  meridian  of  Greenwich,  and  there- 
fore the  most  proper  point. 

The  mysterious  extinction  of  a  day  caused 
no  little  merriment  and  much  speculation. 
The  captain,  being  able  to  drop  any  day  he 
chose,  concluded  to  extinguish  the  seventh; 
whether  from  professional  or  individual  en- 
mity to  religion,  or   to  gratify  his   avaricious 


CHARACTER    OF    OUR    SECOND    MATE.  227 

disposition  by  keeping  the  crew  at  work,  is 
unknown. 

The  change  was  made  upon  the  log-book 
without  any  pubhc  intimation  of  it;  and  we, 
who  were  strenuously  observing  it,  by  extra 
ablutions,  careful  dress,  and  abstaining  from 
amusements,  were  suddenly  taken  aback  by 
seeing  things  proceed  in  the  usual  manner. 

The  murmuring  at  this  movement  of  the 
captain's  was  so  general  and  so  loud,  he  was 
glad  to  ordain  the  observance  of  the  next  day, 
Tuesday  of  the  new  style,  as  a  substituted 
Sabbath,  at  least  so  far  as  regarded  rest  from 
labor,  and  some  other  trifling,  though  to  us  in- 
dispensable ceremonies,  accordmg  to  our  own 
views. . 

12th.  —  Our  second  mate  is  thoroughly  ig- 
norant of  every  thing  except  working  ship, 
and,  like  many  others  who  are  profound  in  a 
narrow  circle  of  knowledge,  and  supreme  in  a 
small  sphere  of  power,  is  abundantly  vain  of 
his  acquirements,  and  ostentatious  of  his  au- 
thority. He  is  six  feet  in  hight,  broad  and 
muscular,  with   a   full,   red   face,  bushy  hair, 


228  STOPPING  THE  mate's  noise. 

large,  dark  eyes,  with  no  meaning  whatever, 
and  a  voice  that  rings  through  the  ship  in 
a  manner  that  almost  makes  her  tremble. 
Having  exhausted  the  difficulty  naturally  at- 
tendant upon  the  commencement  of  a  voyage 
with  a  crew  out  of  practice  by  a  year  or  two 
of  mining,  he  seems  to  have  concentrated  his 
dislike  upon  our  cabin  boy,  who  has,  at  best,  a 
temper  fiery  in  the  extreme.  "  Boy  Bill,"  as 
he  is  called,  is  invariably  aroused  at  half  past 
three  o'clock,  and  in  such  a  boisterous  manner 
as  to  dissipate  the  slumbers  of  the  passengers 
for  the  rest  of  the  night. 

The  nuisance  grew  so  unbearable,  a  scheme 
was  formed  to  prevent  it  if  possible.  The 
morning  following  its  formation,  as  the  mate 
appeared  at  the  door  of  the  saloon,  a  forward 
passenger  shouted  "  Boy  Bill,"  and  immediately 
the  same  was  reiterated  to  the  farther  end  of 
the  cabin,  by  seventy-five  different  voices,  with 
as  much  powder  as  they  could  command.  The 
uproar  was  terrible  and  deafening,  but  highly 
effective,  as  it  has  given  to  us  the  peaceable 
hours  of  rest,  undisturbed  by  the  stentorian 
tones  of  this  "  son  of  thunder." 


THE   LOST    RECKONING.  229 

20th.  —  We  have  been  forty  days  out,  the 
average  voyage  being  much  less,  and  have  not 
yet  seen  any  thmg  of  the  coast  of  South 
America.  Some  begin  to  be  afraid  that  our 
reckoning  is  wrong;  but  the  captain  refuses 
information,  taking  it  as  an  insult  that  any 
one  disbelieves  his  daily  bulletin  of  latitude 
and  longitude.  For  the  last  two  or  three  days 
there  has  been  much  dissatisfaction,  which 
found  definite  utterance  this  morning  in  an 
anonymous  despatch  upon  the  bulletin  board, 
in  the  form  of  an  advertisement  on  this  wise :  — 

^^LOST,  STRAYED,   OR  STOLEN. 

"  The  American  ship  Sacusa,  Captain  Scott,  ivhich 
left  Port  Philip  for  Calho,  tvith  one  hundred  passen- 
gers, January  2^th.  When  last  heard  from,  she  ivas 
near  the  antipodes ;  supposed  noio  to  he  someiuhere 
in  the  Pacific  Ocean,  hcticeen  Australia  and  America. 
A  very  handsome  reii'ard  iiill  he  paid  to  any  ivho 
tvill  correctly  state  her  tvhereahouts,  and  a  still  great- 
er one  to  those  ivho  tvill  pilot  her  into  the  poH  of 
Callao. 

"  In  helmlf  of  one  hundred  sicJcened  passengers!^ 
20 


230  A    LONG    VOYAGE. 

It  has  excited  the  ire  of  the  commander, 
but  being  impossible  to  find  the  instigator  of 
such  a  movement,  nothing  will  be  done. 

During  the  whole  of  our  long  voyage,  we 
have  not  spoken  one  vessel,  nor  sighted  land 
since  the  antipodes  —  a  somewhat  uncommon 
instance  of  a  solitary  passage.  It  has  some- 
how come  to  the  knowledge  of  the  captain 
that  Perrin  and  myself  were  passengers  in  the 
Peytona,  famous  through  this  part  of  the 
world  as  an  unlucky  ship. 

To-day  he  sent  us  a  polite  invitation  to  visit 
him;  and,  thinking  such  attention  not  to  be 
declined,  we  went;  gave  him  an  account  of 
our  wanderings,  much  to  his  surprise  and 
gratification. 

"  Well ! "  said  he,  good-naturedly,  at  the 
close  of  the  tale,  "  I've  had  a  pretty  long 
voyage  this  time,  and  no  wonder,  since  I've 
got  two  Peytona  Jonahs  on  board.  I  don't 
expect  to  make  any  port  at  all  now.'* 

March  29th.  —  Full  two  days  before  the 
coast  of  South  America  was  visible,  those  very 
discerning  ones^  of  whom  there  are  usually  a 


PLEASANTRIES.  231 

goodly  number  on  board  ship,  could  see  dis- 
tinctly "  the  loom  of  the  land/'  and  even  the 
very  peaks  of  the  long-looked-for  Andes.  These 
airy  visions  kept  up  considerable  excitement, 
both  among  the  credulous  and  those  who  made 
sport  of  it.  Whenever  any  one  has  been 
specially  confident  of  seeing  the  shadow  in  the 
eastern  horizon,  or  the  faint  outlines  of  some 
snowy  peak,  some  one  has  stood  ready  to  cor- 
roborate his  statement,  and  even  give  it  a 
more  tangible  form.  ^  Certainly !  I  see  'em," 
has  been  the  reply.  '^  Don't  you  see  that 
mountain  covered  with  trees,  and  the  birds  and 
monkeys  in  their  branches  ? "  and,  "  Can  you 
not  perceive  that  rock  at  tlie  foot  of  the  moun- 
tain, and  a  frog  upon  the  top  of  it  ? " 

Thus  the  jokers  joked  ;  the  anxious  gazed 
so  sick  with  suspense  they  could  neither  eat 
nor  sleep,  while  the  cooler  and  more  philo- 
sophic quietly  waited  for  a  solid  foimdation  to 
their  hopes.  At  last  th«  land  was  clearly  to 
be  seen  before  us,  this  morning,  in  a  line  of 
snow-covered  peaks,  distant  and  dim,  like  a 
dream,  and  the  darker  range  of  highlands 
below,  stretching  out  of  sight  on  either  hand. 


232  CALLAO    IN    SIGHT. 

Every  body  was  on  deck,  —  officers,  crew,  and 
passengers,  —  for  the  morning  w^as  perfect  and 
the  sight  lovely.  About  noon,  to  the  confusion 
of  all  the  unbelieving  despisers  of  the  captain's 
skill  as  a  navigator,  the  roadstead  of  Callao 
came  in  sight  directly  before  us,  into  which  he 
brought  the  ship  as  accurately  and  fairly,  as  if 
he  had  drawn  her  thither  by  a  line  ;  but  the 
critics,  like  all  mistaken  ones,  insisted  upon  it 
that  the  success  was  pure  accident,  and  no 
credit  to  the  captain. 

It  was  a  strange  and  eager  crowd  that  cov- 
ered the  deck  as  we  ranged  slowly  up  toward 
the  anchorage.  There  stood  the  gamblers,  some 
of  them  penniless,  and  others  correspondingly 
rich  with  their  gains.  By  their  side  were  men 
Avith  gray  hairs  and  wrinkled  faces,  who  had 
been  first  to  California,  afterward  to  Austra- 
lia, in  unsuccessful  search  after  gold,  leaving 
families  in  narrow  circumstances  at  home  — 
their  lives  thus  far  a  failure,  and  their  one  re- 
maining hope,  that  of  making  up  for  all  in  the 
new  diggings  of  Peru.  No  small  number  had 
laid  out  every  dollar  they  possessed  in  the 
world  for  this  passage,  and  a  meager  outfit  for 
the  journey  to  the  mines  on  the  Amazon. 


FILIAL   AFFECTION.  233 

There,  too,  was  WilliamS;  a  young  man  who 
had  been  brought  on  board  apparently  far 
gone  with  the  consumption,  but  who  has  re- 
covered a  considerable  share  of  health  and 
strength  in  the  balmy  air  of  the  Pacific ;  look- 
ing forward  with  a  dim  and  half-painful  hope 
of  being  at  last  able  to  realize  the  fondest  wish 
of  his  heart — that  of  affording  material  assist- 
ance to  his  father.  He  was  the  son  of  a  wealthy 
Englishman,  and  was  educated  with  the  design 
of  succeeding  his  father  in  business;  but  the 
latter,  becoming  bankrupt,  removed  to  a  distant 
country,  and  he  was  obliged  to  abandon  school 
and  enoraire  in  some  effort  that  would  afford 
some  remuneration.  His  health  failed,  and 
to  reestablish  it  he  made  the  voyage  to  Austra- 
lia. Proving  favorable,  he  commenced  business 
there,  but  was  again  arrested  by  symptoms  of 
pulmonary  disease,  which  compelled  him  to 
leave,  and  incidentally  brought  him  on  board 
our  ship,  still  retaining  the  absorbing  desire  to 
aid  his  father ;  exhibiting  an  admirable  spirit 
of  filial  devotion,  seldom  witnessed. 

The  position  which  I  occupied  upon  the  fore- 
castle gave  me  an  opportunity  of  studying  the 

20* 


234  •      DISAPPOINTMENT. 

countenances  of  the  passengers,  most  of  which 
betokened  a  vague,  uneasy  excitement,  some- 
times of  painful  intensity.  Not  a  word  was 
said,  except  in  an  occasional  low  whisper,  for 
every  man  was  absorbed  with  his  own  indi- 
vidual hopes  and  fears ;  but  the  impatience  of 
the  silent  throng  was  manifested  more  clearly 
than  words  could  have  shown  it,  by  the  steady, 
bent  brows,  the  restless  movements,  and  quiet 
sighs  that  unconsciously  escaped  from  nearly  all. 
The  custom-house  officer  came  on  board,  and 
the  established  etiquette  barely  restrained  us 
from  infringing  upon  his  business  interview  with 
the  captain.  This  over,  the  storm  of  questions 
was  instant  and  tremendous.  "  Gentlemen,"  re- 
plied the  official,  "  there  is  nothing  in  it ;  you 
have  all  been  humbugged."  At  this  brief  and 
unexpected  answer  a  change  came  over  the 
faces  of  the  crowd,  almost  like  blotting  the  sun 
from  the  heavens  in  appearance.  I  saw  tears 
in  the  eyes  of  strong  men,  and  an  agony  of 
bitter  and  hopeless  disappointment  in  many 
more.  Some  silently  went  below  to  weep; 
some  flew  into  a  rage,  and  swore  revenge  upon 
the  man  who  had  originated  such  reports;  a 


ORIGIN    OF   THE    DECEPTION.  235 

few  looked  merely  sullen,  and  still  fewer  indif- 
ferent. 

As  for  myself  and  Perrin,  we  had  talked 
over  the  prospect  many  times,  and  had  come 
to  the  conclusion  that  the  probabilities  of  ob- 
taining gold  were  against  us  ;  and  our  hopes,  in 
consequence,  had  not  become  very  strong.  Be- 
side,  it  was  not  so  much  the  hope  of  gain  that 
had  brought  us  thither,  as  the  love  of  wander- 
ing ;  which,  I  confess,  was  so  powerful  a  prin- 
ciple w^ith  me,  as  to  make  me  comparatively 
indiiferent  to  poverty  or  riches. 

Upon  further  inquiry  it  was  ascertained,  that 
the  original  report  was,  undoubtedly,  founded 
on  assertions  of  Lieutenant  Herndon,  of  gold 
to  be  found  upon  the  head  waters  of  the  Ama- 
zon, and  elsewhere,  east  of  the  Andes.  The 
fellow  who  had  spread  the  new^s  in  Melbourne 
was  probably  associated  with  some  unprin- 
cipled captains  or  owners,  who  were  desirous 
of  contriving  paying  voyages  for  their  ves- 
sels, then  lying  unemployed  in  Port  Philip 
harbor;  and  letters  w^hich  he  presented,  pur- 
porting to  be  from  a  brother  in  Peru,  con- 
taining glowing  accounts  of  the  mines,  were 


236  NUMBER    OF   THE   DUPED. 

a  base  fabrication.  We  are  told  tbat  this  same 
man,  while  coming  across  upon  another  ves- 
sel, has  been  caught  in  robbing  a  passenger, 
and  is  now  imprisoned  in  Callao,  to  answer  to 
the  charge  —  an  item  of  information  that  seems 
a  real  consolation  to  many  of  our  unfortunate 
men,  especially  considering  the  misery  of 
Spanish  prisons,  and  the  dilatoriness  of  their 
tribunals. 

The  whole  number  of  men  thus  caught  in 
this  net  is  over  two  thousand.  Callao  is  full 
to  overflowing  of  those  who  are  waiting  for  a 
steamer  to  take  them  to  Panama,  or  staying 
because  they  have  no  money  wherewith  to 
take  them  to  a  new  destination.  And  worse 
than  all,  as  I  learn  from  an  acquaintance  that 
has  come  on  board,  the  yellow  fever  is  among 
them,  and  hundreds  are  dying. 

Gold,  he  says,  may  probably  be  found  in 
some  places  near  the  upper  waters  of  the 
Amazon,  several  hundred  miles  distant  •  but  the 
journey  is,  perhaps,  as  perilous  as  could  be 
made  in  South  America.  It  lies  across  the 
Andes,  throus^h  lars^e  tracts  of  the  low-land 
forests ;   through   territories  of  hostile   tribes, 


DISCOURAGING    PROSPECTS.  237 

whose  secret  assaults  and  poisoned  weapons 
are  sure  destruction  for  small  parties.  It  is 
certain  the  trip  can  not  be  made  at  all,  except 
by  strong  companies,  every  man  completely 
equipped  with  arms  and  provisions  for  a  long 
expedition  —  requisites  out  of  the  reach  of  the 
vast  majority  of  those  here. 

30th.  —  After  the  disheartening  news  of  yes- 
terday, we  thought  best  to  remain  on  board  for 
the  night ;  and  this  morning  we  went  on  shore, 
to  see  who  of  our  Australian  acquaintances 
might  be  found.  Three  of  the  passengers  have 
joined  Perrin  and  myself,  and  despite  our 
cloudy  prospects  we  are  quite  cheerful,  and 
determined  to  keep  together  and  make  the 
best  of  it.  We  were  met  at  every  turn  by 
scores  of  those  who  had  arrived  before  us,  and 
on  the  principle  that  "  misery  loves  company," 
were  delighted  to  see  us.  Doleful  were  the 
details  that  we  heard  from  each  and  all :  livins: 
was  expensive,  board  exorbitant,  houses  were 
full ;  no  one  dared  venture  for  the  mines ;  no 
ships  were  up  for  California,  or  the  Isthmus ; 
no  steamer  would  leave  for  Panama  for  two  or 
three  weeks. 


238  CALLAO. 

This  was  truly  a  melancholy  story  for  us ; 
but  considering  despondency  a  sure  road  to  the 
fever,  and  not  being  quite  penniless,  we  re- 
solved to  look  about  Callao,  and  inquire  for 
lodgings.  In  wandering  about  the  different 
hotels,  I  found  a  letter  from  Mrs.  Haynes,  one 
of  our  party  from  Geelong  to  Ballerat,  who 
had  preceded  me,  and  was  already  on  her  way 
to  San  Francisco.  She  advises  me  to  go  at 
once  to  Lima,  and  remain  until  an  oppor- 
tunity is  offered  to  sail  for  Panama,  and  I  am 
inclined  to  do  so. 

Callao  is  low,  flat,  and  sickly;  the  streets 
narrow  and  intolerably  filthy;  the  houses  mean 
and  poor,  with  mud  walls  and  flat  roofs.  One 
of  the  first  and  most  remarkable  thins-s  that 
attracted  our  attention,  was  the  immense  pile, 
of  wheat  that  was  to  be  seen  in  the  open  air. 
Thousands  of  bushels  are  piled  together  in 
this  situation,  remaining  an  almost  incredible 
time  w^ithout  injury,  there  being  no  rain  on 
this  coast,  and  consequently  a  dry  atmosphere. 

The  present  town  is  of  comparatively  mod- 
ern origin ;  the  former  having  been  wholly 
submerged  and  destroyed  in  a  terrible  earth- 


LIMA.  239 

quake  in  1746,  which  also  laid  waste  a  part 
of  Lima. 

It  is  said  that  many  portions  of  buildings 
still  standing  can  yet  be  seen  at  low  water. 
Immense  treasures  were  buried  in  private 
dwellings,  and  more  in  the  large  churches 
which  still  lie  among  the  ruins  "in  the  bot- 
tom of  the  sea."  Various  applications  have 
been  made  for  permission  to  seek  for  them, 
but  for  some  unknown  reason  the  Peruvian 
government  has  invariably  refused. 

April  13th.  —  The  excitement  consequent 
upon  life  in  Lima  has  left  me  neither  time  nor 
inclination  for  daily  journalizing.  Two  weeks 
have  been  spent  in  rambling  about  the  city ; 
and  from  this  stand-point  I  can  speak  of  that 
which  my  eyes  have  seen  and  my  ears  have 
heard,  with  more  satisfaction  to  myself,  and 
perhaps  greater  benefit  to  others. 

With  several  of  our  ship's  company  we  came 
to  Lima,  a  distance  of  ten  miles,  being  an 
ascending  grade  of  fifty  feet  to  the  mile,  in 
about  one  hour. 

The  cars  here  are  mere  open  carriages  —  no 


240  B.iNDITTI. 

protection  from  the  rain  or  cold  being  neces- 
sary. The  sun  sent  down  upon  us  his  scorch- 
ing rays ;  but  the  road  is  in  immediate  prox- 
imity to  the  old  government  road,  which 
is  shaded  on  either  side  with  magnificent 
trees,  whose  broad  branches  afford  an  agreea- 
ble shade. 

Upon  our  arrival,  we  found  that  our  ex- 
penses would  not  vary  much  from  six  dollars 
a  week — a  sum  altoo-ether  too  larg-e  for  our 
limited  resources,  especially  as  we  had  a  long 
journey  yet  before  us.  After  a  night  of  rest, 
w^e  sallied  forth,  satisfied  our  wants  with,  ba- 
nanas from  the  market  place,  and  finally  suc- 
ceeded in  obtaining  cheap  lodging  rooms  of 
a  German  landlord,  w^here  we  established  our- 
selves, and  very  soon  felt  at  home.  We 
thought  of  encamping  somew^here  in  the  neigh- 
borhood, but  found  the  country  entirely  in- 
closed; beside,  the  vicinity  swarms  wdth  robbers, 
and  straggling  soldiers,  identical  with  them, 
who  rob  and  murder  at  their  pleasure.  A 
large  number  of  American  and  English  people 
are  here,  and  their  affinity  of  blood  and  lan- 
guage seems  to  bring  them  together  as  breth- 


I 


ASPECT    OF   LIMA.  241 

ren  of  one  family,  laying  aside  the  distinction 
that  existed  in  Australia,  or  forgetting  differ- 
ences by  being  in  a  common  condition  of 
poverty  in  a  strange  land. 

Lima  looks  somewhat  imposing  as  ap- 
proached from  the  ocean ;  standing  out  prom- 
inently upon  an  elevated  table-land,  and  this 
upon  the  dark  background  of  the  Andes.  The 
mountains  in  this  region  are  quite  barren  — 
all  the  upper  portion  of  the  first  range,  a  mile 
or  two  from  the  city,  being  a  mere  mass  of 
lava,  while  the  land  at  their  base  is  a  garden 
of  tropical  vegetation.  Scores  of  churches, 
convents,  and  cathedrals  tower  above  the  low- 
er  buildings,  and  give  a  powerful  impression 
of  massive  srandeiu"  at  the  first  view.  Ordi- 
narily,  the  houses  are  but  one  story,  wdth  flat 
roofs,  so  constructed  by  reason  of  frequent 
earthquakes,  which  render  them  liable  to  be 
thrown  down ;  and  they  are  incomparably  less 
dangerous  under  these  circumstances,  than  if 
they  w^ere  more  elevated  and  of  solid  ma- 
terial. Sun-dried  bricks,  made  of  clay  and 
chopped  straw,  form  the  bulk  of  their  building 
stuff     Lima  contains  about  seventy  churches, 

21 


242  CHURCHES,   ETC. 

besides  the   grand   cathedral  which  stands  in 
the  plaza,  and  was  built  by  Pizarro,  being  one 
hundred  and  eighty-six  feet  in  front  by  three 
hundred  and  twenty  deep.     It  is  considered  a 
fine  specimen  of  architecture,  but  much  dilap- 
idated ;  and  indeed,  in  its  best  estate,  was  sadly 
injured  by  gaudy  coloring  and  grotesque  orna- 
ments —  a  plain  indication  of  the  want  of  civ- 
ilization and  refinement  in  the  vain  architects. 
It  possesses,  at  present,  no  other  attractions 
but  a  quantity  of  relics,  and  some  old  paint- 
ings and  statuary.     In  1746  its   towers  were 
thrown  down  by  an  earthquake,  but  were  re- 
built in  1800.     It  has  several  fine  toned  bells, 
and  the  wealth  which  has  at  difierent  times 
been  lavished  upon  its  interior  is  scarcely  to 
be  credited,  except  in  a  city  which  once  paved 
a  street  with  ingots  of  silver  to  do  honor  to 
a  new  viceroy.     As  a  proof  of  the  abundance 
of  silver  ornaments,  it  is  said   that  in   1821, 
a  tun   and  a  half   of   silver   was  taken  from 
the  various   churches  in  Lima,  without  being 
missed,  to  meet  the  exigencies  of  the  state. 

Tlie   Church  of  San  Francisco  contains  an 
altar,  also  built  by  Pizarro,  purporting  to  stand 


PROMENADES.  243 

■upon  columns  of  solid  silver,  beside  being 
decorated  with  profuse  ornaments  of  silver 
and  gold,  and  the  whole  surmounted  with  a 
golden  statue  of  himself  The  forms  of  these 
thinors  are  certainlv  to  be  seen,  but  the  real 
substances  were  stolen  during  the  revolution, 
leaving  nothing  but  base  metal  gilded  over. 
This  church  was  once  the  richest  in  the  world, 
and  still  retains  enough  of  ornament,  painting, 
and  statuary,  to  render  it  interesting.  There 
are  two  large  theatres,  only  one  of  which  is 
assisted  by  government,  and  this  is  now  closed 
on  account  of  political  troubles. 

Beside  the  festivals  and  dramatic  amuse- 
ments, a  favorite  evening  pleasure  of  the  peo- 
ple of  the  city  consists  in  promenading  upon 
the  grand  plaza,  which  is  a  spacious,  handsome 
square,  lined  with  all  the  principal  shops,  and 
therefore  quite  lively.  Its  sidewalks  are 
handsomely  paved  with  mosaic,  while  those 
opposite  the  cathedral  present  the  novel  and 
startling  appearance  of  being  inlaid  here  and 
there  with  human  bones,  though  no  one,  as  I 
could  find,  is  able  to  tell  whence  they  came,  or 
why  they  were  there.     About  a  mile  distant 


244  CLIMATE.       INHABITANTS. 

from  this  place,  across  the  River  Rimac,  there 
is  another  public  square,  usually  called  the 
Alameda;  situated  between  a  range  of  fine 
residences  on  one  side  and  a  low  wall  along 
the  river  on  the  other  side,  shaded  through- 
out by  the  choicest  tropical  trees,  thus  form- 
ing an  exceedingly  pleasant  resort  for  the 
lovers  of  pleasure. 

The  climate  is  pleasant,  the  extremes  of 
heat  and  cold  being  never  experienced.  The 
thermometer  in  the  city,  and  in  the  shade, 
never  falls  in  winter  under  sixty  degrees  Fahr- 
enheit, nor  rises  in  summer  above  eighty-two 
degrees,  its  usual  station  being  about  eighty 
degrees  in  well-aired  apartments. 

There  are  about  seventy-five  thousand  in- 
habitants in  Lima;  Spanish  and  Peruvian  by 
blood,  with  a  small  intermixture  from  other 
nations.  A  larger  part  of  the  lower  classes 
are  Peruvians,  mostly  indolent  and  stupid, 
caring  little  or  nothing  for  society ;  even  re- 
maining unmoved  at  the  extravagant  stories 
of  the  gold  fields,  or  the  general  rumor  of  a 
movement  upon  the  city,  by  rebels  of  some 
kind.     Their  wants  are  merely  sensual,  and  a 


SPANISH   FAMILIES.  245 

bare  living  suffices.  Fruit,  which  is  excessive- 
ly cheap  •  a  little  corn  or  manioc-root  flour ; 
a  fine  outside  garment,  in  addition  to  their 
usual  scanty  dress,  will  satisfy  all  their  worldly 
desires. 

There  is  in  the  city  a  small  circle  of  proud 
and  exclusive  families  of  old  Spanish  blood, 
who  are  very  wealthy,  owning,  as  we  are  told, 
a  great  part  of  the  city,  and  large  estates  in 
the  country,  as  well  as  interests  in  the  silver 
mines.  They  are  seldom  out  alone  after  dark, 
for  fear  of  assassination,  as  the  common  people 
regard  them  with  only  malicious  feelings. 

Many  of  them  are  well  educated  for  this 
country,  in  a  college  established  at  this  place, 
and  chiefly  patronized  by  them.  They  are 
very  tenacious  of  their  old  customs,  and  stran- 
gers find  it  almost  impossible  to  gain  access 
to  their  circles. 

The  best  portion  of  the  citizens,  and,  as  I 
believe,  of  the  Peruvians  in  general,  is  the 
large  middle  class  of  tradesmen,  mechanics, 
and  small  land-holders.  These  people  have 
some  spirit ;  do  something  for  their  country ; 
but  are  excessively  fond  of  dress  and  amuse- 

21* 


246  PRIESTS    OF   LIMA. 

ments ;  yet  hospitable,  courteous  in  manner, 
and  especially  polite  and  attentive  to  strangers. 
Detachments  of  troops  are  almost  daily  to  be 
met,  drilling  on  the  public  grounds.  They  are 
the  tamest  looking  soldiers  imaginable,  with 
not  nearly  as  much  uniformity  in  size  or  skill 
as  is  usually  seen  in  our  volunteer  school-boy 
companies ;  nerveless  and  stupid  beyond  de- 
scription. This  excites  but  little  surprise,  when 
we  consider  that  they  are  poor,  lower-class 
natives,  pressed  into  the  service,  neither 
knowing  nor  caring  for  whom  or  what  they 
fight. 

There  are  said  to  be  about  three  thousand 
priests  in  Lima,  and  nuns  not  less  in  number. 
The  churches  are  generally  open  for  mass  in 
the  morning,  and  we  have  several  times  at- 
tended the  service  for  the  purpose  of  enjoying 
the  music  and  the  coolness  of  the  large,  dim 
buildings.  The  priests  were  exceedingly  civil, 
and  appeared  to  court  the  presence  of  stran- 
gers, more  probably  for  the  sake  of  their  con- 
tributions than  from  any  other  motive.  One 
of  the  fathers  always  stands  at  the  door  with  a 
plate,  and  no  one   can   resist  giving  him   at 


CHARACTER    OF  THE   PRIESTHOOD.  247 

least  "  a  real,"  if  it  is  only  to  witness  the  ex- 
treme politeness  of  the  cunning  fellows.  They 
are  vehement  in  the  affirmation  that  all  such 
collections  go  into  the  church  treasury  for  re- 
pairs, replacing  images,  &c. ;  but  charity  hardly 
forbids  the  suspicion  that  a  large  proportion  of 
it  goes  for  the  support  of  the  clergy  them- 
selves. The  priests  are  by  no  means  prepos- 
sessing in  appearance;  have  neither  respecta- 
bility nor  dignity.  They  may  be  seen  lounging 
at  church  doors,  even  during  divine  service,  chat- 
ting, laughing,  smoking ;  and,  in  spite  of  all 
this,  continue  to  exert  great  influence  on  the 
lower  classes,  which  constitute  the  great  body 
of  the  community.  The  wealthy  and  aristo- 
cratic occasionally  pay  some  regard  to  the 
forms  and  ceremonies  of  exterior  religion,  for 
fashion's  sake,  or  to  avoid  dangerous  collisions 
with  the  priests  and  their  flocks ;  but  at  heart 
they  are  chiefly  infidels. 

On  the  Saturday  previous  to  Palm  Sunday 
we  were  accidentally  present  at  a  curious  re- 
hearsal of  the  exercises  for  the  festival.  We 
had  attended  service  in  the  morning,  and  were 
examining  some  paintings  and  statuary  in  a 


248  RIDICULOUS    CEREMONIES. 

distant  part  of  the  gallery,  when  the  small 
congregation  quietly  dispersed,  while  we  were 
made  aware  of  being  locked  in  by  the  shutting 
of  the  doors.  We  would  have  applied  for  lib- 
erty, but  observing  that  preparations  were 
being  made  in  the  body  of  the  church  for 
some  ceremony,  we  at  once  determined  to  be 
silent  spectators. 

Quietly  creeping  to  a  front  corner  of  the 
gallery,  we  looked  and  listened,  while  the  farce 
below  proceeded.  It  proved  to  be  the  pre- 
paratory drill  of  one  detachment  for  the  grand 
procession  of  the  following  day. 

The  music  and  the  chanting  were  solemn 
and  beautiful,  and  the  whole  procession,  filing 
about  through  the  vast,  dim  aisles,  and  un- 
der the  lofty  roof,  with  splendid  costumes, 
glittering  silvered  palm-branches,  censers,  and 
all  the  paraphernalia  of  a  Catholic  festival, 
might  have  been  profoundly  impressive.  But 
the  actors,  numbering  fifty,  were  of  all  ages, 
from  gray-haired  men  down  to  mere  boys, 
and  went  through  their  parts  with  silly  laugh- 
ter, ridiculous  grimaces,  and  tricks,  as  if  they 
had  been  a   company  of  monkeys,  instead  of 


A   PROCESSION.  249 

professedly  Christian  people  commemorating 
a  solemn  incident  in  the  life  of  Christ,  their 
Master. 

They  pulled  each  other  slyly  by  the  gown, 
smote  each  other  about  the  ears  and  on  the 
shaven  crown  with  the  dry,  rattling  palm- 
branches,  joked  and  laughed  until  every  thing 
sacred  and  impressive  had  disappeared  in  the 
display  of  levity,  folly,  and  blasphemy. 

The  procession  on  the  following  day  was 
one  exceedingly  imposing.  It  was  headed  by 
a  detachment  of  several  thousand  troops,  after 
whom  came  the  bishop  and  his  long  train  of 
splendidly  arrayed  acolytes  and  clergy,  and 
concluded  by  an  army  of  citizens.  Full  a 
hundred  thousand  people  must  have  been  here 
on  that  day,  including  troops  and  country 
people.  The  long  line  was  gay  with  banners, 
military  music  and  uniforms,  crosiers,  staves, 
censers,  and  the  waving  and  flashing  of  gilt 
and  silvered  palm  leaves  which  both  men 
and  images  bore  in  their  hands.  Towering 
hiorh  above  all  were  the  imas-es  of  Christ  and 
the  twelve  apostles,  in  fine  ruffled  shirts  and 
modern  outer  garments,  and  in  front  the  rep- 


250  A    GRAND    DISPLAY. 

resentation  of  the  Virgin  Mary,  dressed  in 
embroidered  satin,  fancy  crape  shawl,  ribbons, 
and  diamonds.  The  whole  display  was  cer- 
tainly very  imposing,  and  the  aspect  of  the 
whole  city  exceedingly  lively  and  gay — a  state 
of  things  which  donbtless  serves  an  important 
purpose  in  keeping  the  people  quiet  and  con- 
tented under  the  yoke,  both  of  their  priestly 
and  political  rulers. 


CHAPTER  XII. 

THE   YELLOW    FEVER. — VOYAGE   TO   PANAMA. —  ARRIVE 

AT    SAN    FRANCISCO. SCENES    AT   THE   POST   OFFICE. 

—  SITUATION    OF    THE    CITY.  —  IMPRESSIONS    OF   DIF- 
FERENT  MEN. 

If  "variety  is  the  spice  of  life,"  as  some 
affirm,  then  the  portion  of  existence  which  fell 
to  us  in  Lima  was  well  seasoned.  Days  and 
weeks  passed  while  we  were  strolling  about 
the  city,  making  little  expeditions  here  and 
there,  taking  an  occasional  trip  to  Callao  by 
railroad,  and  enjoying  social  intercourse  with 
our  fellows  in  misfortune.  For  myself,  I  fell 
in  with  a  Swiss  gentleman  of  much  intelligence, 
who  kindly  invited  me  to  his  house,  affording 
me  pleasurable  seasons,  that  will  ever  remain 
among  the  pleasantest  reminiscences  of  my 
stay  in  the  city.  That  joy  and  sorrow,  pain 
and  pleasure,  are  closely  allied  in  this  world,  is 
not  only  a  theory,  but  an  actual  fact,  and  so 

(251) 


252        YELLOW  FEVER  PREVALENT. 

felt,  as  we  reviewed  scenes  and  events  while  on 
the  steamer,  bound  for  Panama. 

May  5th.  —  The  agreeable  excitement^  con- 
sequent upon  rambling  and  sight-seeing  in 
Lima,  almost  prevented  us  from  taking  note 
of  the  continued  ravages  of  the  yellow  fever 
among  the  foreigners.  At  last  it  began  to 
invade  our  own  circle  of  acquaintance.  More 
than  once,  when  we  had  passed  a  delightful 
evening  with  a  small  party,  upon  inquiring 
next  day  of  some  member  for  the  health  of 
another,  we  were  met  with  the  reply,  "  He  is 
buried."  Not  many  such  shocks  were  needed 
to  cast  gloomy  shadows  around  us,  awaking 
feelings  that  may  perhaps  have  tended  to  pre- 
pare us  for  an  attack  of  the  same  deadly  dis- 
ease. One  after  another  of  our  circle  were  at 
length  taken  down,  myself  the  last — induced 
probably  by  fatigue  and  watching  with  my 
companions.  It  may  have  been  sheer  insensi- 
bility that  made  me  confident  I  was  not  near 
death,  though  a  victim  of  the  dreadful  fever ; 
but  I  am  inclined  to  ascribe  the  calmness  and 
freedom  which  I  felt  to  a  higher  than  human 


THE   FEVER    BAFFLED.  253 

power  or  agency;  even  to  that  grace  which 
"  soothes  the  troubled  mind "  under  the  most 
adverse  circumstances  of  hfe.  My  first  greet- 
ing to  the  physician,  a  clever  young  German, 
upon  his  first  visit,  was,  "  Well,  doctor,  I'm  not 
going  to  die  yet ! "  —  positiveness  that  provoked 
a  smile,  and  the  remark  that,  "  With  that  dispo- 
sition you  will  do  well  enough."  His  treat- 
ment in  all  cases  was  invariably  the  same  —  a 
moderate  dose  of  calomel,  blue  pill  afterward, 
and  citric  acid  as  a  cooling  drink  whenever 
needed.  I  swallowed  the  first,  received  each 
installment  of  the  second  wdth  great  respect, 
and  threw  it  under  my  bed  in  his  absence,  and 
drank  the  refreshing  solution  of  acid  with 
much  pleasure.  A  few  days  sufficed  to  com- 
plete the  work  of  recovery ;  and  so  pleased  w\as 
my  physician  with  my  apparent  good  behavior, 
he  only  presented  a  bill  of  the  mere  cost  of 
the  drugs,  and  declared  more  than  half  of  the 
fatal  cases  would  have  recovered  if  they  had 
done  the  like.  I  had  remained  here  nearly  a 
month  before  the  expected  steamer  came  up 
the  coast.  In  company  with  my  friend  Wil- 
liams, from  whom  the  fever  seemed  to  have 

22 


254  DEPARTURE. 

driven  away  all  consumptive  symptoms,  but 
who  had  lost  rather  in  the  struggle  between 
two  such  foes,  I  engaged  passage  for  Panama. 
Perrin,  my  faithful  friend  and  constant  com- 
panion and  partner  from  the  Isle  of  France  to 
Australia,  thence  to  Lima,  remained  behind  in 
order  to  negotiate,  in  some  way,  for  a  passage 
home.  One  of  our  party  was  hopelessly  ill  of 
the  fever;  indeed,  could  not  have  been  more 
than  an  hour  or  two  from  his  death  when  we 
were  forced  to  leave  him,  to  reach  the  steamer. 

In  spite  of  the  discouraging  accounts  of  the 
Peruvian  mines,  and  of  the  route  thither,  sev- 
eral parties  were  organized  to  reach  them. 
During  our  stay  three  bands  started,  each 
person  with  a  mule,  and  all  the  arms  and  outfit 
required.  Of  these,  as  I  learn,  one  has  disap- 
peared forever,  in  the  frightful  mountains  and 
forests,  having  never  been  heard  from  after 
leaving  Lima.  The  second  made  considerable 
distance,  losing  more  than  half  their  number, 
when  they  were  overtaken  by  about  as  many 
of  the  third  party,  being  all  that  were  left 
alive. 

The  two  forlorn  detachments  joined,  and  for 


FAILURE    OF   THE   ENTERPRISE.  255 

fear  of  hostile  Indians  avoided  all  human  habita- 
tions, living  during  many  days  of  toilsome  jour- 
neying only  upon  monkeys  and  wild  oranges. 
This  unhealthy  diet,  together  with  swamp 
atmosphere,  bad  water,  discouragement,  and 
excessive  fatigue,  obliged  them  to  halt  in  the 
depths  of  the  forest.  It  was  then  agreed  that 
those  who  felt  able  and  desirous  of  doing  so, 
should  push  on,  and  that  the  rest  should  recruit 
and  return.  Some  twenty  or  more  proceeded; 
twelve  turned  back,  eight  only  reaching  Lima, 
in  a  wretched  condition,  —  bareheaded,  bare-- 
footed,  tattered,  emaciated,  penniless,  almost 
starved,  —  with  barely  enough  of  life  left  to 
try  to  preserve  it. 

This  whole  emigration  from  Australia  is  one 
vast  failure.  Probably,  of  the  four  thousand 
men  who  have  come  across,  not  one  fifth  ever 
started  for  the  mines,  and  nearly  one  third  died 
of  fever.  The  rest  gradually  scattered,  some 
to  Australia,  some  to  California,  and  others  else- 
where. It  may  be  imagined  that  the  threats 
against  the  author  of  this  wide-spread  sorrow 
and  misery  were  deep  and  frequent.  No  at- 
tempts were  made,  however;  to  fulfil  them,  and 


256  A    DELIGHTFUL    VOYAGE. 

the  miserable  man,  no  doubt,  found  a  sufficient 
punishment  in  the  squaHd  rigor  of  his  impris- 
onment. He  was  released  before  we  left,  and 
we  saw  him  more  than  once  sneaking  about 
alone,  pale  and  sickly,  and  with  every  appear- 
ance of  shame  and  sorrow. 

Our  steamer  is  the  Santiago,  the  English 
mail  vessel  between  Valparaiso  and  Panama  — 
an  iron  boat,  long,  narrow,  and  so  low  that, 
sitting  over  the  edge  of  the  guards,  our  feet 
nearly  touch  the  water.  The  accommodations 
are  excellent,  and  the  table  luxurious.  Having 
the  curiosity,  a  day  or  two  since,  to  count  the 
different  articles  of  food  at  dinner,  I  found 
them  to  be  seventy-two,  independent  of  fruit. 
These  quiet  days  are  exceedingly  delightful; 
this  portion  of  the  Pacific  is  as  smooth  as  any 
inland  lake ;  even  a  skiff  might  make  a  voyage 
between  Lima  and  Panama.  The  air  is  balmy 
and  spring-like ;  the  steamer  glides  steadily 
and  quietly;  and  the  easy,  pleasurable  life 
soothes  our  very  hearts,  wearied  and  worn  with 
such  long-continued  toils  and  wanderings. 

I  find  quite  a  number  of  English  families 
on    board,   apparently  making    the    trip    for 


PANAAU.  257 

pleasure ;  and  surely  they  could  not  have  made 
a  better  choice. 

If  American  pleasure-seekers  would  find  the 
object  for  which  they  search,  they  can  most  as- 
suredly realize  it  in  this  region.  A  summer 
excursion  from  New  York  to  Panama,  down 
the  coast  to  Lima  or  Valparaiso  and  back,  and 
then  to  San  Francisco  home  again,  would  be 
indeed  a  trip  full  of  delightful  interest. 

Panama,  May  30th.  —  Upon  reaching  Pan- 
ama, we  went  first  to  a  hotel,  and  having  seen 
poor  Williams  comfortably  settled,  went  out 
to  search  for  cheaper  lodgings  ourselves. 
While  in  a  bar  room,  my  eye  was  attracted  by 
a  card  bearing  the  name  of  Rev.  Mr.  Rowell, 
the  American  missionary  chaplain  stationed 
here.  I  at  once  conceived  the  idea  of  con- 
sulting with  him  both  in  regard  to  our  stay 
and  the  means  of  reaching  San  Francisco, 
w^hither  we  intended  to  go.  After  some  search, 
I  discovered  his  residence  —  a  pleasant  home 
in  the  suburbs  of  the  city,  where  we  were 
hospitably  received,  in  Mr.  K's  absence,  by 
his  wife.     While  conversing  with  her,  the  mis- 

22* 


258  A    SELECT    RESTAURANT. 

sionary  himself  came  in,  and  upon  our  stating 
our  errand,  we  received  the  unwelcome  intel- 
ligence that  the  steamer  had  just  left,  and  we 
should  be  under  the  necessity  of  remaining  in 
Panama  two  or  three  weeks.  He  kindly  of- 
fered to  lodge  us  during  our  stay,  in  such 
style  as  his  narrow  means  would  permit,  afford- 
ing: nothino;  but  a  cool  matted  floor,  on  which 
to  rest  \  but  this  was  at  once  luxury  and  econ- 
omy, and  we  accepted  the  offer  very  gratefully. 

In  our  wanderings  about  the  city,  we  dis- 
covered a  "restaurant"  very  fortunately;  and 
from  this  time  we  have  invariably  taken  our 
meals  there.  We  have  carefully  avoided  speak- 
ing of  the  place  to  others,  lest  we  make  diffi- 
culty for  the  hostess;  for  we  have  not  been 
slow  in  perceiving  that  it  is  a  select  place, 
even  for  the  better  class  of  priests  —  an  infalli- 
ble sign  of  its  professional  merits. 

"VYe  met  unfriendly  looks  and  words  from 
these  fathers  at  first,  a  little  significant,  seem- 
ingly, causing  us  to  note  them  ;  for  they  are 
doubly  inimical  to  foreigners  of  heretical  be- 
hef,  and  in  this  country  the  sentiments  of  the 
priests  are  the  sentiments  of  the  people.    My 


THE   AMERICAN    DIME.  259 

friend  and  myself  are  far  from  being  rich,  and 
our  meals  are  consequently  frugal  indeed  — 
a  fortunate  necessity  for  us,  however,  as  the 
diseases  of  northern  men  in  tropical  climates 
are  almost  invariably  the  result  of  intemper- 
ance in  eating;  or  drinkins:,  or  both.  We  each 
pay  a  dime  for  breakfast,  which  consists  of  a 
cup  of  excellent  coffee,  and  a  nice  French  roll; 
two  or  three  dimes  for  dinner,  which  is  made 
up  of  some  light  dishes,  with  an  abundance  of 
delicious  fruit. 

The  American  dime  has  quite  supplanted 
the  "real"  as  the  chief  small-change  coin  on 
the  Isthmus  and  in  California.  As  for  cents, 
instead  of  being  objects  of  contempt  and  aver- 
sion, as  in  the  Southern  and  Western  United 
States,  they  are  objects  of  curiosity.  I  have 
seen  a  young  man  carry  one  on  his  watch- 
chain,  as  "charms"  and  trinkets  are  worn  at 
the  East,  and  it  has  commanded  universal 
attention.  "  What's  that  ?  "  is  a  frequent  ques- 
tion. "  Whv,  that  must  be  a  cent!"  and  it  is 
inspected  with  as  much  curiosity  as  if  it  had 
been  coined  by  Tubal-Cain,  in  the  original 
antediluvian  mint. 


260  INHABITiVNTS    OF   TIIE   RESTAURANT. 

But  to  return  to  the  restaurant,  which  is 
delicately  neat,  considering  the  variety  and 
number  of  its  occupants.  They  seem  to 
constitute  a  "  happy  family/'  much  more  re- 
markable than  the  incongruous  animal  assem- 
blage sometimes  so  called.  According  to  our 
careful  and  repeated  census,  there  are  ducks, 
hens,  turkeys,  cats,  dogs,  goats,  pigs,  girls,  boys, 
women,  and  numberless  withered  Spaniards, 
all  running  in  and  out,  at  work,  play,  or  sleep, 
on  the  ground  floor  of  the  low,  large  room. 
Among  this  strange  and  heterogeneous  crowd, 
cool,  and  undismayed  by  the  indescribable  mix- 
ture of  voices  of  beasts  and  birds,  human 
conversation,  calls  of  customers,  the  complex 
responsibilities  of  the  cooking  department, 
which  steamed  at  the  further  side  of  the  room, 
and  the  current  calls  of  the  household,  this 
managing  partner  of  the  concern  goes  to  and 
fro  upon  her  innumerable  errands ;  never  hur- 
ried nor  worried  —  a  very  pearl  of  native 
women.  She  is  immensely  fat,  with  a  clear 
olive  skin,  fine  features,  splendid  black  eyes, 
pearly  teeth,  and  no  small  quantum  of  good 
nature  and  dignity. 


STATE    OF    MORALS.  261 

Old  Panama,  the  ancient  Spanish  city,  is 
quite  ruined,  and  indeed  the  ncAv  place,  by  the 
same  name,  is  scarcely  less  so.  Many  of  the 
churches  show  signs  of  vast  wealth  in  the  past, 
but  only  a  very  few  families  of  wealth  are  in 
the  place  now,  and  neither  enterprise  nor  thrift 
exists  but  what  is  planted  here  by  means 
of  the  transit  travel  to  and  from  California, 
and  down  the  coast.  Americans  who  estab- 
lish themselves  in  business  at  this  point  show 
their  characteristic  energy,  but  the  natives  are 
never  stimulated  to  follow  their  example ;  but, 
on  the  contrary,  they  dislike  them  and  their 
ways,  and  if  they  dared,  the  intrusive,  restless, 
and  monopolizing  foreigners  would  quickly  be 
expelled  from  the  country. 

The  people  in  general,  numbering  some- 
where about  ten  thousand,  are  mostly  low 
Spanish  half-breeds,  who  live  in  old  ruined 
houses  and  bamboo  huts,  appearing  more  igno- 
rant, indolent,  and  vicious  than  any  of  their 
race  I  have  ever  seen.  The  moral  and  social 
atmosphere  of  the  place  speaks  strongly  of 
"  barbarism  ; "  even  the  marriage  relation  is 
hardly  respected  or  formally  observed. 


262  RELIGION. 

Mr.  Rowell  is  making  great  and  praise- 
worthy efforts  at  reform  in  this  respect,  as  well 
as  others,  and  he  has,  to  some  extent,  suc- 
ceeded in  introducing  the  practice  of  the  mar- 
riage rite,  and  of  conjugal  faithfulness,  while 
there  are  some  indications  that  public  opinion 
will  eventually  support  him. 

The  religion  of  Panama  is  the  lowest  phase 
of  Eomanism.  There  are  a  few  of  the  higher 
ranks  who  are  infidels,  associating  not  at  all 
with  the  commonalty  or  the  priests,  either  in 
society  or  religious  services.  Their  absence 
from  church  ceremonies  may,  perhaps,  be  plau- 
sibly excused,  on  the  ground  of  danger ;  for  the 
few  church  edifices  that  continue  to  be  opened 
for  use  are  so  ruinous  that  they  seem  ready 
to  fall,  at  any  moment,  upon  the  heads  of  the 
deluded  worshipers. 

There  is  reason  to  hope  that  this  clashing 
of  material  interests,  and  the  exhibition  of 
superior  activity,  will  rouse  the  inactive  Span- 
ish population  to  efforts  worthy  their  noble 
blood,  and  of  the  ancient  fame  of  their  grand 
old  nation. 

The  ghastly  specters  remaining  from  Lieu- 


DISPOSAL    OF    THE    DKA.D.  263 

tenant  Strain's  frightful  expedition  across  tlie 
Isthmus,  have  arrived  at  this  place.  Such  bent 
and  feeble  frames,  such  deadly-looking  coun- 
tenances, I  have  never  associated  with  living 
men  before.  One  of  the  number  has  died,  and 
was  followed  to  his  grave  in  the  cemetery  by 
a  large  number.  This  burial  place  is  a  dreary, 
unattractive  spot,  overrun  with  briers  and 
almost  impenetrable  thickets  of  tropical  shrubs 
and  vines.  We  have  spent  considerable  time 
in  searching  out  and  reading  inscriptions  upon 
the  monuments  which  affection  has  sent  from 
the  United  States,  to  mark  the  last  resting 
place  of  friends  in  this  remote  region.  Almost 
all  those  who  have  died  here  are  young  men, 
in  the  prime  of  life,  seized  and  cut  off  on  their 
way  to  California  by  the  dreaded  Isthmus 
fever. 

The  native  inhabitants,  as  in  Italy,  destroy 
the  bodies  of  their  dead  with  quick-lime,  cast- 
ing the  slender  relics  into  a  pit,  when  the  Avork 
of  the  caustic  is  complete.  While  wandering 
in  a  solitary  and  remote  spot,  I  discovered  Sj 
small,  blackened,  and  barren  area,  which  seemed 
to  have  been  used  for  this  purpose.     Upon  it 


264  ARRIVAL    AT    SAN    FRANCISCO. 

was  a  small  pile  of  human  remains,  like  moist 
cinders  and  gray  ashes,  with  here  and  there  a 
frao-ment  of  bone  —  relics  of  existino;  bar- 
barism.  Notwithstanding  so  much  darkness 
and  ignorance,  the  hope  of  gain  will  still  influ- 
ence many  to  come  hither,  losing  sight  of 
these  forbidding  features  in  the  eagerness  of 
accumulating  wealth,  thus  confirming  the  sen- 
timent of  the  great  poet  of  nature,  "How 
quickly  the  human  heart  falls  to  revolt  when 
gold  becomes  its  object!" 

June  15th. — In  San  Francisco  at  last.  It 
was  only  till  the  last  moment  that  we  were 
able  to  negotiate  for  a  passage  at  a  rate  within 
our  means.  About  seventy-five  of  our  fellow 
Australian  voyagers  came  with  us,  some  of 
whom  had  money,  which  they  freely  dispensed 
to  their  poorer  companions.  Such  traits  of 
noble  generosity  are  more  common  among  the 
large  class  of  roving  travelers  that  have  sprung 
up  since  the  gold  discoveries,  than  many  are  apt 
to  imagine.  It  affords  pleasant  confirmation 
for  the  belief  that  in  the  lowest  class  of  men, 
that  is,  in  the  least  intelligent  and  cultivated, 


APPEARANCE    OF   THE    PLACE.  265 

there  are  yet  redeeming  qualities;  that  speak  a 
certain  native  goodness  of  heart.  The  voyage 
to  San  Francisco  (usually  known,  "  for  short," 
in  California  and  on  the  coast,  as  "  Frisco/')  oc- 
cupied twelve  days  and  a  half,  void  of  incident 
worth  noting.  The  excitement  of  the  passen- 
gers, as  we  passed  within  the  Golden  Gate, 
was  intense.  Cheer  after  cheer  was  given  from 
one  party  and  another,  evidently  prompted  by 
pure  exultation  at  reaching  the  land  of  gold, 
or  at  being  able  to  tread  American  soil  once 
more.  Many  of  our  company  had  left  Califor- 
nia three  years  before,  to  do  better  in  Aus- 
tralia. To  such  the  change  in  the  city  must 
have  been  startling;  for  where  they  had  left 
long  lines  and  groups  of  sand  hills  and  barren 
higlits,  the  ground  w\as  now  leveled  and 
graded,  streets  laid  out  and  crowded  with 
houses,  churches,  and  stores.  So  great  was 
the  change,  so  striking  the  improvement,  they 
professed  it  to  be  more  like  an  enchanted 
dream  than  a  reality.  A  range  of  handsome 
private  residences  has  been  shown  to  me  on 
Eincon  Point,  on  both  sides  of  a  level  and  com- 
modious plank  road,  and  surrounded  with  beau- 

23 


266  MEETING    OF   FRIENDS. 

tiful  gardens,  rich  in  verdure,  whose  site  had 
been  sand  hills  within  three  months  ;  so  rapid 
are  the  works  of  man,  and  the  operations  of 
nature  in  this  region  of  vivid  life  and  tremen- 
dous energy ! 

We  sailed  slowly  through  a  forest  of  masts, 
past  a  long  succession  of  thronged  and  busy 
wharves  to  the  steam-ship  landing ;  and  as  we 
approached  the  spot,  the  immediate  vicinity, 
and  all  the  adjacent  streets,  as  far  as  we  could 
see,  were  one  compact  mass  of  men  and  wo- 
men, eagerly  watching,  and  impatiently  wait- 
ing to  welcome  friends  whom  they  expected. 
Such  a  host  of  anxious  countenances  are  sel- 
dom seen ;  and  as  soon  as  we  were  within 
hailing  distance,  handkerchiefs  were  waving  in 
the  air  from  both  ship  and  shore,  and  innumer- 
able voices  were  calling  each  to  some  friend 
whom  they  recognized  in  the  crowd. 

Numbers  were  overcome  at  the  sight  of 
loved  ones,  from  whom  they  had  been  long 
absent;  and  when  the  gang-way  was  laid  down, 
the  rush  into  arms,  the  tempest  of  joy  and 
grief,  laughter  and  tears,  was  affecting  in  a 
high  degree,  beside  being  inconvenient  almost 


SCENE  AT  THE  POST  OFFICE.       267 

* 

to  danger.  The  arrival  of  the  Isthmus  steam- 
ers, with  their  bm^den  of  joyous  and  heavy 
hearts,  with  their  '^  silent  messengers,"  bearing 
gladness  or  heaviness  to  so  many  more,  are 
great  events  in  California.  The  scene  at  the 
post  office,  on  these  occasions,  is  almost  without 
a  parallel  in  the  world.  The  mail  arrange- 
ments are  not  yet  perfected  throughout  the 
interior,  and  for  this  reason,  coupled  with  the 
fact  of  their  wandering,  uncertain  life,  num- 
bers of  miners  have  their  letters  sent  to  the 
city,  and  come  thither  for  them  when  they  are 
due.  All  the  business  correspondence  also 
comes  through  these  mails,  and  the  result  is 
such  a  pressure  at  the  delivery  office  as  can 
scarcely  be  conceived.  There  are  several  win- 
dows arranged  by  an  alphabetical  series  of 
initials,  and  from  each  of  these,  by  daylight  of 
the  morning  of  "  steamer  days,"  the  line  of  ex- 
pectants begins  to  form,  and  grows  continually, 
stretching  around  for  a  hundred  and  fifty  rods 
in  every  conceivable  direction,  insomuch  that  a 
bird's-eye  view  of  San  Francisco  post  office,  on 
steamer  days,  would  affi)rd  no  unfair  represen- 
tation of  California  people  and  their  manners. 


268  DELIVERY    OF    LETTERS. 

Some  speculating  geniuses  take  advantage  of 
this  tedious  process  to  earn  money,  as  Fabius 
saved  Italy,  by  the  delay.     The  rule  "  first  come, 
first  served,"  is  rigidly  enforced,  and  they  come 
early  to  the  ground,  secure  a  station  near  the 
window,  pretty   certain   of  an   opportunity  to 
sell  their  right  of  succession  to  some  hurried 
or  anxious   merchant   for  ^ye  or  ten   dollars. 
Often  the  purchaser  can  much  better  afford 
this  payment  than  to  waste  a  whole  day,  per- 
haps  more,  in   hanging   round  the    office,  or 
^'  standing  on  a  string."     A  less  direct  and  hon- 
orable mode  of  evading  the  difficulty  is  often 
practiced,  which  has  been  the  cause  of  much 
reasonable  complaint  and  annoyance.     In  Cali- 
fornia women  are  treated  with  marked  distinc- 
tion and  deference,  more  so  than  in  any  other 
country  in  the  world,  without  exception.     Of 
course  there  is  a  particular  window  for  them 
at  the  office,  and  especially  obliging  and  ac- 
tive clerks ;  and  in  order  to  avail  themselves 
of  the   advantage,  numbers  of  merchants  are 
in   the  habit    of  having  their  letters    directed 
to  their  wives,  instead    of  themselves.     Thus 
many  a  fair  agent — sometimes  really  a  wife, 


REFLECTIONS.  2C9 

and  sometimes  only  a  hired  substitute  for  the 
occasion  —  enables  her  lord  to  read  his  letters 
and  act  accordingly,  many  hours  before  his 
wifeless,  less  enterprising,  or  more  fair-minded 
competitors. 

What  a  study  is  human  nature  1  How  every 
phase  of  it  appears  to  the  traveler — sometimes 
in  a  manner  that  elicits  profound  admiration, 
and  again  exciting  scarcely  less  than  disgust ! 
Nothing  very  strange  if  Young  had  similar 
experience,  ere  he  penned  the  line, — 

"  How  abject,  how  august  is  man ! " 

Here  to  this  famed  and  youthful  city  I  have 
come,  with  what  design  I  can  scarcely  tell, — 
not  to  dig  in  the  bowels  of  the  earth  for  golden 
treasures  merely,  nor  to  engage  in  any  other 
branch  of  business  in  particular,  but  rather  to 
gratify  a  love  of  wandering,  —  hardly  any  thing 
more  definite  than  to  see  what  there  is  to  be 
seen,  and,  perchance,  become  a  "  doer,"  provided 
a  congenial  situation  presents  itself 

My  money  is  nearly  gone,  but  I  find  a  wel- 
come home  with  my  brother-in-law,  already 
established  in  this  place,  and  propose  to  remain 


13^'^ 


270  SAN    FRANCISCO    BAY. 

to  look  about  the  city,  and  then  take  a  look  at 
the  northern  mmes  of  gold,  up  the  valley  of 
the  Sacramento^  in  the  skirts  of  the  Sierra 
Nevada. 

20th. — I  have  been  so  particularly  fortunate 
as  to  meet  in  the  city  an  old  friend  and  fellow- 
townsman,  who  has  very  kindly  acted  as  my 
guide  and  conductor  to  all  points  of  interest  in 
and  about  the  city ;  but  these  have  been  so 
generally  described  by  travelers,  I  shall  omit 
extended  individual  notices,  and  remark  only 
the  general  features  of  the  city  and  its  loca- 
tion. From  Telegraph  Hill,  the  highest  point 
in  San  Francisco,  we  command  a  view  of  the 
whole  city  and  suburbs ;  the  wharves  and  ship- 
ping of  the  whole  bay,  its  islands  and  shores. 
The  city  occupies  the  inner  slope  of  the  south- 
ern of  those  two  points,  between  which  is  that 
magnificent  entrance  to  the  bay,  called  the 
Golden  Gate.  To  the  westward  rises  the  low 
chain  of  hills  which  shut  out  the  view  of  the 
Pacific ;  w^hile  close  beneath  us,  to  the  north- 
east, east,  and  south-east,  spread  the  streets  and 
squares  of  the  city,  with  their  gardens  crowning 


EDIFICES.  271 

the  whole  with  peculiar  and  rare  beauty.  The 
bay  shore  is  lined  with  docks,  and  a  great 
crowd  of  shipping  —  vessels  of  all  forms  and 
sizes,  on  whose  tall  masts  hundreds  of  flags,  of 
all  nations  are  gently  waving  in  the  breeze. 
We  can  look  directly  down  to  Rincon  Point, 
through  Montgomer}'  Street,  while  from  others 
comes  a  distinct  view  of  the  bay.  All  the 
grades  are  easy  and  even ;  the  streets  wide 
and  straight ;  but  it  must  be  confessed  the  chief 
and  characteristic  feature  of  the  whole  is  the 
large  number  of  comfortable  houses,  surrounded 
with  green  and  pleasant  gardens.  Among  the 
prominent  buildings  is  the  substantial  and  orna- 
mental custom  house ;  the  Romish  cathedral, 
conspicuously  erected  upon  the  very  best  lo- 
cation in  the  city,  and  several  Presbyterian 
churches.  Numerous  others,  smaller  and  of 
less  moment,  appear ;  but  the  whole  view  im- 
presses the  observer  with  an  idea  of  life,  vigor, 
and  busy  enterprise  —  comparatively  in  its  in- 
fancy, to  be  sure,  but  not  less  decided,  inspirit- 
ing, and  hopeful  for  the  future,  than  New  York 
with  its  bay  and  suburbs.  Steamers  are  con- 
stantly leaving  the  docks,  laden  to  their  utmost 


272  DIFFERING    VIEWS    OF    MEN. 

capacity  with  freight  and  passengers,  for  the 
Sacramento,  Stockton,  Petakima,  Napa,  Sono- 
ma, San  Jose,  and  the  Contra-Costa  settle- 
ments, in  the  latter  of  which  farms  and  comitry 
houses  form  an  agreeable  feature  of  the  land- 
scape. The  power  of  well-directed  energy  to 
transform  the  wild  places  of  the  earth  into  a 
garden  of  beauty,  —  even  a  terrestrial  para- 
dise,—  is  fully  manifest  here.  The  superficial 
gazer  looks  upon  what  human  achievement 
hath  wrought,  and  is  lost  in  amazement;  the 
man  of  calculation  looks  abroad,  and  revolves 
in  his  mind  some  successful  scheme  by  which 
his  own  name  will  be  identified  with  the  in- 
creasing glory ;  while  the  thoughtful,  serious 
observer  witnesses  the  scene,  and  wonders  if 
the  regenerating  influence  of  truth  and  right 
will  come  soon  enough,  and  powerful  enough, 
to  save  it  from  the  doom  of  proud,  imperial 
Eome,  in  other  times. 

Thus,  according  to  the  constitution  of  differ- 
ent minds,  are  different  emotions  awakened  in 
the  beholders  of  every  scene. 


CHAPTER    XIII. 

IMPRESSIONS  OF  LIFE  AT  SACRAMENTO  CITY.  —  STAY 
AT  CAPTAIN  pike's  HOME.  —  MUD  AND  DIAMOND 
SPRINGS.  —  SCHOOL  HOUSES.  —  MAMMOTH  TREES.  — 
INFLUENCE   OF   CURIOSITY. 

Sacramento,  June  28th.  —  While  rambUng 
about  the  streets  of  San  Francisco,  gathering 
information  of  the  mines,  I  fell  in  with  an  old 
shipmate  from  the  Sacusa,  Captain  Pike,  a 
man  even  more  impatient  and  roving  than 
myself  Having  become  tired  of  city  life,  he 
proposed  to  me  to  join  our  forces  in  an  excur- 
sion to  the  northern  mines ;  and  consenting  to 
the  arrangement,  our  small  preparations  were 
speedily  made,  and  we  embarked  together  on 
the  steamer  for  Sacramento  City.  The  travel 
between  the  city  and  the  mining  districts  is 
alwavs  laro:e.  We  had  on  board  several  hun- 
dred  passengers,  and  a  large  quantity  of  freight. 
On  our  way  across  the  bay,  to  the  mouth  of 

(273) 


274  ASPECT    OF    THE    COUNTRY. 

the  river,  we  passed  several  desolate-looking 
islands  and  high  rocks,  rendering  the  appear- 
ance of  the  coast  barren  in  the  extreme.  A 
few  miles  further  distant,  the  banks  were  lined 
with  low  shrubbery  and  a  few  trees,  while  still 
higher  the  banks  w^ere  lower  and  the  river 
valley  spread  out  into  magnificent  meadows 
and  low  upland,  skirted  with  fine  trees  of  heavy 
timber,  and  stretching  miles  away  before  any 
slope  or  table-land  appeared.  Beyond  this 
valley,  on  the  w^est,  are  the  high  hills  belong- 
ing to  the  coast  range,  while  far  away  in  the 
opposite  direction  loomed  the  distant,  snow- 
capped peaks  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  limiting 
the  view. 

Between  the  opposite  towns  of  Benicia  and 
Martinez,  near  the  mouth  of  the  river,  and 
Sacramento  City,  there  are  no  settlements,  ex- 
cept a  few  already  deserted,  an  occasional 
"  ranch,"  or  farm  house,  and  a  few  huts  of  the 
wood-cutters.  The  whole  distance  from  San 
Francisco  to  this  place  is  one  hundred  and 
twenty-five  miles,  only  a  small  matter  in  this 
"  state  of  magnificent  distances." 

As   we    approached   the    city,   the    country 


SACRAMENTO    CITY.  275 

grew  even  more  attractive,  being  higlier  and 
more  diversified.  The  river  reminded  me  of 
the  Upper  Mississippi,  near  St.  Paul's,  although 
the  banks  are  hardly  of  sufficient  hight  to  be 
called  hluffs.  The  situation  is  more  inviting, 
at  least  I  fancied  I  could  see  this  in  the  de- 
meanor of  the  heterogeneous  crowd  of  several 
steamers  that  discharged  their  living  freight 
about  the  same  time.  Many  of  them  seemed 
to  step  on  shore  with  a  sort  of  satisfied  air,  as 
if  they  owned  the  land ;  with  something  of 
the  pride  of  proprietorship  in  the  air  of  in- 
dependence with  which  they  sallied  up  the 
streets  to  obtain  breakfast  before  leaving  for 
the  mines.  We  landed  about  sunrise,  with  the 
intention  of  making  the  tour  of  the  city  be- 
fore breakfast,  but  after  wandering  a  mile  or 
two,  found  it  not  to  be  in  exact  accordance 
with  the  clamorous  voice  of  the  physical  man. 
The  city  is  laid  out  on  a  level  plain,  with  wide, 
straight  streets,  at  right  angles,  lettered  alpha- 
betically one  way,  and  numbered  ordinarily 
the  other,  making  it  very  convenient  for  find- 
ing strange  places.  The  streets  are  already 
laid  out  to  distances  almost  incredible  for  so 


276  FUTURE    GREATNESS. 

young  a  city,  and  can  be  extended,  if  neces- 
sary, many  miles  each  way,  over  the  level 
ground  of  the  vast  natural  park  which  lies 
around  its  site  at  the  confluence  of  the  Sacra- 
mento Eiver  and  the  American  Fork.  There 
are  not  wanting  men  who  imagine  themselves 
endowed  with  prophetic  vision,  who  are  for- 
ward in  predicting  that  Sacramento  will  soon 
be  the  second  city  in  California,  and  one  of 
the  handsomest  in  the  United  States — predic- 
tions that  seem  quite  probable,  considering  the 
extreme  beauty  of  its  locality,  the  judicious 
plan  upon  which  it  has  been  commenced,  and 
its  great  commercial  advantages  as  the  chief 
depot  for  the  mining  districts.  It  seems  to 
me  a  place  of  much  less  show  and  excitement ; 
society  resting  upon  a  more  permanent  basis 
than  in  San  Francisco.  The  people  seem  more 
like  fixed  inhabitants  of  an  old  city,  having 
established  churches,  schools,  markets,  and 
places  of  amusement.  I  am  surprised  to  find 
no  small  number  of  enterprising  young  men, 
emigrants  from  my  own  native  town,  settled 
in  or  near  the  city,  doing  a  flourishing  business, 
or  engaged  in  the  grand,  primeval  art  of  agri- 


VISIT    TO    THE   KA^XH.  277 

culture.  I  have  also  had  a  pleasing  surprise 
in  meeting  Mrs.  Hajnes,  my  Australian  friend, 
who  came  on  before  me,  and  is  now  settled 
and  happy  at  home  in  Sacramento,  fully  pre- 
pared to  appreciate  the  comparative  comforts 
and  luxuries  of  this  adopted  home,  after  the 
hardships  and  privations  of  life  in  xlustralia. 

29th.  —  After  a  few  days  of  enjoyment  pecu- 
liar to  Sacramento,  w^e  were  ready  for  a  pedes- 
trian excursion  to  French  Creek,  thence  across 
the  Sierra  Nevada  to  Gold  Canon  in  Carson  Val- 
ley, the  last  named  and  furthest  point  being 
nearly  four  hundred  miles  from  San  Francisco. 
On  the  second  day,  at  evening,  we  reached 
Captain  Pike's  own  homestead,  a  ranch  in  the 
neighborhood  of  French  Creek,  which  is  a 
branch  of  the  American  Fork  of  Sacramento 
Eiver,  and  about  fifty  miles  from  the  city  of 
the  same  name.  The  captain  found  his  ten- 
ants still  occupying  his  house  and  farm,  but 
was  a  good  deal  chagrined  at  finding  much  of 
his  good,  arable  land  turned  upside  down; 
disfigured  wdth  holes  and  ditches  by  the  mi- 
ners.    Proprietorship  is  no  defense  in  Califor- 

24 


278  MINING. 

nia  against  tills  class  of  men.  Where  there  is 
gold,  a  mining  claim  is  paramount  to  every 
other,  and  each  man  may  stake  out  and  work 
his  twenty  feet  square,  if  it  destroys  growing 
crops,  orchards,  or  midermines  the  very  hearth- 
stone at  3^our  feet ;  —  at  least,  he  tvill,  and  it 
makes  very  little  difference  whether  he  may. 
Stopping  here  a  little  time,  we  went  up  and 
down  the  creek,  wdth  an  eye  to  the  "yellow" 
discoveries,  but  found  little  to  encourage  us, 
although  we  usually  obtained  our  twelve  and 
a  half  cents  per  pan,  which  is  generally  reck- 
oned the  minimum  rate  at  which  w^orking  is 
profitable.  Here  w^e  formed  an  acquaintance 
with  a  young  man,  w^ho  owned  a  horse,  and 
upon  learning  our  intention  of  pursuing  the 
journey  further,  he  proposed  to  join  us  —  an 
offer  which  w^e  were  glad  to  accept,  as  thus  our 
packs  might  be  transported  and  our  progress 
much  facilitated.  Our  route  lay  up  the  valley 
of  French  Creek,  w^here  the  scenery  w^as  inter- 
esting and  beautiful,  beside  being  much  more 
cultivated  than  w^e  expected.  AVe  saw  nice 
ffxrms,  large,  substantial-looking  farm  houses, 
fields  frequently  of  many  acres  in  extent,  and 


VALLEY    OF   FREXCH    CREEK.  279 

fertile  gardens  here  and  there  between  groves 
of  oak  or  pine.  As  we  passed  onward  up  the 
valley,  the  cultivated  fields,  the  gently  sloping 
hills,  with  their  groves  of  oak,  and  occasional 
patches  of  manzanita  or  hazel  shrubbery,  grad- 
ually disappeared.  Our  path  was  constantly 
ascending  from  the  time  we  left  Sacramento. 
The  mountains  of  the  Sierra  were  directly  be- 
fore us,  and  with  every  mile  the  deep  canons ; 
dark  and  ruofored  ravines  o;rew  more  numer- 
ous,  and  all  the  scenery  assumed  more  of  the 
wild  and  picturesque  beauty  which  is  so  char- 
acteristic of  the  country.  Nevertheless,  along 
the  banks  of  the  many  small  and  rapid  streams 
of  pure  water  which  here  flow  down  from  the 
mountains,  excellent  situations  for  towns  and 
villages  are  abundant.  The  narrow  valleys 
and  mountain  slopes  are  rich  both  in  vegetable 
and  mineral  productions ;  and  the  few  ranches 
scattered  about  here  and  there  have  already 
fully  proved  the  unsurpassed  productiveness 
of  the  soil,  and  its  fitness  for  agriculture.  If 
nature  has  any  thing  to  do  with  bodily  and 
mental  development,  these  mountain  sides 
may,  at  no  distant  day,  be    peopled   with    a 


280  SPANISH   FLAT. 

numerous  and  mighty  race.  Some  few  miles 
from  our  starting  place,  we  came  out  upon 
Spanish  Flat,  a  secluded,  level  valley,  hemmed 
in  on  all  sides  by  lofty  mountains,  except 
where  its  natural  drainage  flowed  out  through 
a  narrow  gorge,  forming  the  head  waters  of 
French  Creek. 

This  isolated  and  beautiful  spot  takes  its 
name  from  a  small  number  of  old  Spanish 
families,  w^ho  have  occupied  it  for  many  years, 
living  peacefully  and  contentedly  in  their  pas- 
toral simplicity  and  wealth.  Their  descendants 
would  have  remained  upon  the  soil  in  like 
manner,  had  not  the  gold-hunting  excitement, 
with  its  reckless  adventurers,  forced  a  way  into 
this  distant  retreat.  Now  the  Spaniards  have 
joined  the  invaders  in  digging  and  trading; 
the  banks  of  their  pleasant  little  forest  stream 
are  torn  up  and  dug  down,  and  its  channel 
turned  into  a  new  bed  ;  most  of  the  trees  and 
shrubbery  have  been  cut  down;  houses  and 
stores  have  been  erected  upon  the  mountain 
sides ;  a  busy  thoroughfare  wands  onward  into 
the  mountains,  through  narrow  passes  and  steep 
cliffs ;  and  the  white  tents  of  the  miners,  under 


^.iAR.Ca,.    CAJ^IFOENIA. 


SLY   DIGGINGS.  281 

oaks  and  pines^  dot  all  the  neighborhood.  I 
have  found  much  pleasure  in  wandering  alone 
about  these  forests  and  mountains,  more  in  de- 
lighting myself  with  the  wild  grandeur  of  the 
scenery  than  in  canvassing  for  gold,  which  was 
my  ostensible  errand. 

I  have  strolled  up  and  down  the  place,  peer- 
ing into  every  canon  and  valley,  finding  every 
where  the  marks  of  those  who  had  made  unsuc- 
cessful experiments  and  passed  onward.  Sev- 
eral times  I  have  come  upon  secret  places  com- 
pletely hidden  among  the  mountains,  that  were 
occupied  by  two  or  three  miners,  and  some- 
times by  a  single,  solitary  man.  These  places 
are  technically  styled  "  sly  diggings,"  and  their 
locality  is  concealed  with  extreme  care  by 
their  occupants,  who  hold  them  for  years  to- 
gether, patiently  working  from  one  end  to  the 
other,  and  venturing  out  for  supplies  only  by 
night,  or  by  circuitous  and  concealed  routes, 
for  fear  others  might  discover  their  hiding 
place,  and  share  their  good  fortune.  Some  of 
these  I  judged  to  be  making  four  or  ^Ye  dol- 
lars a  day.  Their  professed  object  is  to  remain 
till  they  have  accumulated   a  "certain   pile." 

24* 


282  MUD    SPRINGS    SETTLEMENT. 

But  in  all  probability  some  of  them  will  find 
their  graves  in  these  remote  regions. 

Mud  Springs,  a  little  further  on,  is  a  large 
mining  town  of  perhaps  twenty-five  hundred 
soulsj  near  to  which  many  thousands  of 
miners  are  at  work,  scattered  for  miles  in  all 
directions  at  the  shallow  diggings.  There  is  a 
fair  prospect  of  employment  in  these  mines  for 
a  number  of  years,  and  it  operates  as  an  in- 
ducement to  the  erection  of  substantial  build- 
ings and  to  general  improvement.  Most  of 
the  inhabitants  seem  to  have  made  their  money 
moderately,  and  are  quietly  and  permanently 
settled,  with  their  families.  There  are  one  or 
two  fine  churches,  and  several  good  school 
houses;  the  latter  being  erected  usually  by 
the  young  men  of  the  vicinity — partly  from 
the  disinterested  motive  of  doing  good  to  those 
who  have  families,  and  partly  from  the  desire 
of  having  a  place  for  singing  schools,  evening 
meetings,  political  assemblies,  or  any  gathering 
or  occasion  of  interest  which  mitrht  tend  to 
vary  the  monotony  of  the  miner's  life. 

At  several   points  upon  our   route  we  had 
noticed,  perched  upon  the  top  of  some  specially 


SCHOOL-HOUSE    CHURCHES.  283 

prominent  hill,  like  the  Temple  of  Science  in  the 
frontispiece  of  Webster's  spelling-book,  one  of 
these  old-fashioned  school  houses.  On  one  oc- 
casion our  attention  was  arrested  by  a  shouting 
from  one  of  these  hills,  and  looking  ujd,  we  saw 
twenty  or  thirty  boys  and  girls  rushing  from 
their  prison,  in  such  a  tumult  of  noisy  glee, 
that  our  momentary  impression  was,  that  some- 
thing extraordinary  had  happened.  The  next 
moment  assured  us  it  was  noon,  and  we  passed 
on,  full  of  the  recollections  of  youth,  and  the 
glorious  liberty  of  school-boy  days. 

Throughout  a  great  part  of  the  mining  coun- 
try the  school  houses  are  the  only  churches. 
In  them  the  itinerant  preachers,  from  one  and 
another  denomination,  fulfil  an  occasional  ap- 
pointment, preaching  to  closely-attentive  and 
keenly-appreciative  audiences,  though  not  vast 
in  numbers  or  magnificent  in  dress.  The 
young  men,  who  usually  form  the  congrega- 
tion, have  nothing  but  their  mining  apparel ; 
but  they  are  scrupulously  clean.  No  custom 
on  earth  is  more  rigorously  observed  than  the 
sailor's  and  miner's  weekly  ablutions  and  clean 
shirt,  even  if  the  wearer  has  had  to  wash  it  him- 


284  DIAMOND    SPRINGS. 

self;  and  go  without  any  until  it  was  dry.  Thus 
cleansed  and  clad,  the  miner  feels  at  once 
good-natured  and  independent,  and  prepared  to 
give  a  preacher  a  cordial  and  respectful  w^el- 
come,  beside  paying  him  bountifully  for  his 
labor.  These  occasional  ministrations  are  en- 
joyed with  the  double  zest  of  home  associations 
refreshed,  and  monotonous  drudgery  relieved, 
over  and  above  the  pleasure  coming  from  their 
sympathy  in  the  solemn  services,  as  Christian 
men. 

Two  miles  beyond  Mud  Springs  is  Diamond 
Springs  — a  town  of  similar  character  and  some- 
what larger  size.  Between  the  two  places 
there  exists  a  rivalry  and  jealousy  of  consider- 
able bitterness  and  activity,  made  evident  to 
US  even  in  our  transient  stay,  by  sneering  and 
depreciating  remarks  in  each  at  the  expense  of 
the  other.  The  result  of  our  observations  in 
this  part  of  our  route  is,  that  the  miners  are  a 
jovial  and  happy  class,  living  carelessly  and  at 
their  ease,  although  at  times  they  know  some- 
thin  sr  of  hard  labor. 

The  roads  here  are  rough  and  rather  diffi- 
cult, but  pass  through  a   portion  of  country 


SN.IKES    ABUNDANT.  285 

thick  set  with  lovely  mountain  scenery.  Our 
path  is  beset  with  snakes,  which  are  extremely 
numerous  in  California.  We  sometimes  see  a 
dozen  rattlesnakes  in  the  course  of  a  dav,  be- 
side  a  plenty  of  a  species  of  adder  with  a  horn 
in  their  tail,  that  are  said  to  sting  instead  of 
bite ;  also  a  thick-bodied,  large-headed  snake, 
here  ridiculously  called  "  bulbuls."  These,  how- 
ever, seem  to  be  harmless,  and  we  have  accus- 
tomed ourselves  to  them.  From  these  springs 
we  proceeded  in  a  straightforward  direction, 
and  camped  the  same  night  under  some  tall 
red-wood  pines,  the  beginning  of  the  celebrated 
forests  of  mammoth  trees,  that  stretch  through 
El  Dorado  and  Calaveras  counties.  Close  at 
hand  was  a  spring  of  clear  water,  and  abun- 
dance of  good  grass  for  our  invaluable,  silent 
partner  —  the  old  gray  horse.  The  next  day  we 
journeyed  in  the  shade  of  these  gigantic  trees. 
The  day  was  exceedingly  fine,  and  the  moun- 
tain scenery  magnificent  and  ever-varying,  but 
the  trees  absorbed  our  whole  attention.  We 
were  prepared  to  see  a  few  of  these  leviathan 
cedars,  but  to  travel  miles  through  forests  of 
them  was  a  perfect  wonder  and  surprise  to  us. 


286  GIGANTIC    TREES. 

We  had  traveled  through  many  forests  before, 
and  seen  much  that  was  impressive,  and  even 
indescribable ;  but  a  grove  of  their  trees,  though 
of  uncommon  size,  placed  by  these  monsters, 
would  be  like  shrubs  and  bushes  in  compari- 
son ;  even  their  topmost  boughs  would  not 
reach  half  way  to  the  lowest  branches  of  these. 
These  vast  and  silent  forms  oppressed  and 
awed  us,  and  we  w^alked  on  in  their  broad 
shadows  in  reverential  silence.  It  was  as  if 
we  were  transplanted  into  another  world,  and 
another  language  than  ours  was  necessary  to 
describe  the  place  or  its  impressions.  The 
trunk  of  one  by  which  we  sat  down  to  rest 
ourselves  was  quite  smooth  and  free  from 
limbs,  knots,  or  blemishes  of  any  kind.  It 
rose  in  one  fair,  gigantic  column,  about  two 
hundred  feet,  and  from  that  hight  its  enormous 
cone-shaped  head  towered  away  aloft  until  it 
seemed  to  reach  the  clouds.  Such  descriptions 
—  in  fact,  any  description  —  must  fail  entirely 
of  giving  any  idea  of  the  truth.  It  may  serve 
a  somewhat  better  purpose  in  assisting  the 
imagination  to  remind  the  reader  that  no 
church  spire  in  the  United  States  would  nearly 


A   SECRET    VALLEY.  287 

equal  these  trees  in  hight — that  there  are  very 
few  whose  "  weather-cock "  would  even  reach 
the  lowest  branches. 

One  night  we  spent  in  "  Sly  Park/'  another 
of  the  characteristic  secret  valleys  of  this 
region,  far  beyond  any  human  habitation,  sur- 
rounded by  lofty  mountains,  seemingly  without 
an  opening.  The  level  space  within,  and  the 
slopes  around,  were  carpeted  with  bright,  wild 
flowers,  of  nature's  own  planting,  while  here 
and  there  stood  a  group  or  single  tree  of  the 
famous  red-w^ood;  and  at  their  feet  a  limpid 
stream  of  pure,  cold,  mountain  water.  As  we 
relieved  our  weary  horse  of  his  burden,  and 
prepared  our  meal  with  the  keen  appetites  of 
wandering  men,  the  solitude  seemed  almost 
sacred,  and  thought  went  back  to  the  days  of 
primeval  innocence,  when  earth  was  arrayed 
in  its  early  brightness  and  glory,  uncursed  by 
sin,  giving  neither  signs  nor  sounds  of  woe. 
Such  reflections  were  broken,  however,  by  the 
consideration  of  necessary  precautions  against 
the  wild  beasts  that  swarm  throughout  the 
California  mountains ;  and,  kindling  a  large 
fire   against   the  huge  dry  trunk  of  a  fallen 


288  A   NATURAL   PARK. 

cedar,  and  another  a  few  rods  distant,  we  laid 
ourselves  down  in  the  space  between,  lulled  to 
sleep  by  the  low  music  of  the  wind  through 
the  tops  of  the  trees,  and  the  distant  howling 
of  the  wild  denizens  of  the  forest. 

We  woke  early,  refreshed  and  invigorated 
by  our  '^  siesta  "  in  the  pure,  mountain  air,  and 
by  sunrise  were  pursuing  our  journey  through 
this  valley,  which  is  probably  the  finest  natu- 
ral park  in  the  world ;  being  very  extensive, 
including  within  its  circuit  of  many  miles  a 
complete  system  of  gentle  hills  and  valleys  of 
its  own.  These  vales  are  broad  and  open,  of 
easy  slant,  and  covered  with  flowers,  one  va- 
riety standing  in  a  bed  by  itself,  and  another 
in  like  manner  further  on.  Except  the  tower- 
ing cedars,  there  are  scarcely  any  trees,  and 
the  view  of  these  kings  of  the  wood  is  perfect, 
there  being  no  obstruction  from  undergrowth 
or  shrubbery.  It  is  almost  impossible  to  es- 
cape a  humiliating  and  painful  impression  of 
our  own  utter  insignificance  in  the  presence 
of  these  ancient  giants,  by  w^hose  side  the 
chestnut  of  Mount  Etna,  the  cypress  of  Lom- 
bardy,  and  the  great  Baobab  of  TeneriiFe  are 


CHARACTER    OF    THE    INDLVNS,  289 

infants  in  age;  and  even  the  ruins  of  the 
monuments  of  the  elder  races  of  men  are  but 
youthful.  It  is  even  affirmed  by  some  that  the 
largest  of  them  have  stood  for  a  period  dating 
further  back  than  the  creation  of  man.  Some- 
times we  would  meet  a  group  of  these  trees 
standing  like  a  family — the  tall  and  graceful 
form  of  the  parent  surrounded  by  a  cluster  of 
half  a  dozen  children  growing  up  symmetrically 
around  her ;  and  again  would  appear  a  little 
dell  formed  by  three  or  four  flowery  slopes, 
and  occupied  by  one  solitary  and  majestic  tree. 
We  have  met  some  fallen  ruins,  that  have 
either  been  uprooted  by  mighty  tempests  or 
destroyed  by  fires,  probably  built  by  the  In- 
dians, who  take  great  delight  in  this  secluded 
valley.  We  have  met  none  of  them  thus  far, 
they  being  shy  and  unfriendly  mountain  tribes 
of  Pah-Utahs  and  Wah-satch,  (usually  called 
Waw-shaws.)  The  only  Indians  in  the  lower 
country  are  the  few  and  scattered  families  of 
the  filthy  and  unsightly  "  Diggers,"  w^ho  seem 
to  me  even  below  the  Australian  natives  in 
intelligence  and  ability.  That  they  are  not  re- 
markable for  either  high  spirit  or  intelligence 

25 


290  MOUNTAIN   PASSES. 

is  manifest  from  the  fact,  that  a  certain  Mis- 
sourian  emigrant,  settled  in  the  valley  of  the 
Sacramento,  actually  enslaved  quite  a  number 
of  them;  not,  indeed,  subjecting  them  to  the 
rough  field-hand  discipline  and  severe  labor  of 
the  plantation,  but  giving  them  "  quarters " 
around  his  mansion,  requiring  their  services, 
with  no  reward  but  some  scanty  stipend  in 
such  manner  as  he  chose.  But  this  probably 
was  far  superior  to  their  native,  squalid  filth, 
grub- eating,  rootrdigging  bill  of  fare. 

The  Sierra  Nevada  ranges,  north  and  south,  ^ 
form  the  boundary  line,  in  this  region,  between 
California  and  Utah.  Upon  its  eastern  side, 
and  separated  from  us  by  its  whole  width,  is 
Carson  Valley,  extending  along  under  the  Si- 
erra a  hundred  miles  or  more. 

The  great  emigrant  road  across  the  plains 
comes  in  at  the  northern,  widest  and  lowest 
end  of  this  valley,  proceeds  south  to  its  ex- 
tremity among  the  mountains,  and  then  turn- 
ing westward,  leads  over  the  Sierra  into  Cali- 
fornia. Not  far  from  the  point  where  this 
road  comes. in  from  the  desert,  a  trail  called 
the  "  Johnson  Cut-off"  turns  west,  crosses  the 


GR.VND    SCENERY.  291 

mountain,  and  reaches  the  valley  of  the  Sacra- 
mento by  a  route  shorter  than  the  main  road, 
but  more  difficult.  From  this  there  diverges 
a  still  more  obscure  and  difficult  path,  called 
the  Georgetown  Trail,  which  our  desire  for 
adventure,  and  determination  to  realize  the 
whole  of  mountain  experience,  inclined  us  to 
follow.  As  we  ascended  higher,  the  scenery 
grew  wild  and  grand  at  every  step,  with  steep 
and  rugged  mountain  slopes — fantastic  and 
endlessly  varied  forms  of  crag  and  pinnacle, 
interspersed  with  a  growth  of  trees  so  thick 
and  strong  we  wondered  they  could  find  room 
and  nutriment.  Yestiges  of  the  hardships  of 
a  former  company,  who  traveled  in  this  diffi- 
cult place,  are  still  observed,  consisting  of  ax- 
marks  and  branches  hewm  off  at  a  hight  of 
about  forty  feet  from  the  ground  in  some 
large  trees.  The  condition  of  these  was  de- 
scribed to  us  by  a  judge  in  El  Dorado,  himself 
one  of  the  company. 

The  party,  numbering  nearly  a  hundred  per- 
sons, had  come  across  the  plain  in  the  season 
of  1849,  rather  late,  but  still  in  time  to  cross 
the  Sierra  before  the  fall  of  the  deep,  irapass- 


292  SUFFERINGS    OF   THE   EMIGR.VNTS. 

able  snows  in  any  ordinary  season.  The  snow 
suddenly  set  in,  however,  with  uncommon 
severity,  just  before  they  reached  Carson  Val- 
ley. Supposing  it  would  not  impede  their 
march,  and  beside,  being  unprepared  to  win- 
ter in  the  valley,  if  it  had  been  thought  ne- 
cessary, they  proceeded,  taking  the  Johnson 
Cut-off  to  save  time.  They  found  the  trail 
nearly  impassable,  and  a  succession  of  fearful 
storms  continued  to  assail  them  on  their  way. 
By  dint  of  almost  superhuman  effort,  and  after 
several  days  of  dreadful  suffering,  they  suc- 
ceeded in  crossing  the  crest  of  the  Sierra,  but 
were  yet  involved  in  the  labyrinth  of  ravines 
and  precipices  in  its  upper  western  portion, 
when  another  storm  of  snow  put  an  end  to 
their  march.  Here  they  burrowed  holes  for 
lodging,  and  remained  for  weeks,  helpless  and 
starving,  until  forty  of  their  number  were  dead. 
At  this  juncture  the  living  gathered  strength 
even  from  desperation,  and  succeeded  in  break- 
ing through  to  the  settlements,  and  rallying 
an  expedition  to  rescue  the  ghastly  remainder. 
The  marks  of  the  ax  in  various  trees  were 
made  in  cutting  their  fire-wood,  creeping  about 
upon  the  snow. 


PERILOUS    SITUATION.  293 

Our  circuitous  path  led  here  and  there  over 
a  saddle-like  notch  between  a  tree  and  the 
steep  hill  side  •  sometimes  along  a  sharp,  nar- 
row crest  of  rock,  foraiing  a  kind  of  table  to 
some  loftier  mass,  and  again  along  the  face  of 
smooth,  bare  slopes  of  granite.  Often  it  was 
marked  only  by  faintly  worn  footsteps  in  the 
rock ;  sometimes  it  was  deep  with  shppery 
stone  dust,  while  w^e  could  hear,  faintly,  the 
roaring  of  the  mountain  torrent,  rushing  thou- 
sands of  feet  beneath  us,  w^here  it  was  hidden 
in  the  dense  shrubbery  that  bordered  the  dark 
and  narrow  chasm.  For  long  distances  to- 
gether it  would  have  been  an  utter  impossi- 
bility for  another  beast  to  have  passed  ours. 
Necessity  compelled  us  to  keep  a  constant 
watch  over  each  step  of  our  own,  for  the 
slightest  stumble,  or  even  a  dizzy  or  doubtful 
movement,  would  have  consigned  us  to  certain 
destruction.  Yie  speculated  much  as  to  what 
could  have  induced  any  human  being  to  at- 
tempt such  a  route ;  much  more  to  undertake 
the  first  passage  over  it  vrith  a  laden  beast. 
It  must  undoubtedly  have  been  traversed  by 
the  wild  animals  of  the  forest  at  first  j  then, 


294  ASCENDING    THE  PEAK. 

perhaps,  by  observant  and  agile  Indians ;  by 
venturesome,  athletic,  and  light-armed  moun- 
tain men;  and  last  of  all,  by  foolish,  reckless 
Yankees,  like  ourselves.  After  much  difficulty 
we  landed  upon  a  wild  spot  directly  upon  the 
breast  of  the  mountain,  where  we  could  see 
the  highest  peak  towering  above  our  heads, 
partly  hidden  by  the  fleecy  clouds  that  went 
floating  past  it.  I  proposed  to  my  compan- 
ions to  ascend  the  peak,  which  we  did,  with 
much  less  difficulty  than  we  had  anticipated, 
over  boulders,  ledges,  and  shelving  rocks,  till 
we  stood  upon  an  eminence  nearly  twenty  thou- 
sand feet  high,  commanding  an  almost  bound- 
less view  of  valleys,  mountains,  forests,  lakes, 
and  streams,  with  a  perpendicular  descent  on 
one  side  of  several  thousand  feet.  It  required 
strong  and  steady  nerves  to  look  down,  or 
even  to  stand  upon  the  place. 

After  descending  from  the  mountain,  we  dis- 
covered some  small  ponds  and  hot  springs  of 
alkaline  water,  apparently  proceeding  from 
sources  within  a  high  mountain  of  volcanic 
formation  in  the  vicinity,  whose  substance, 
upon  examination,  clearly  seemed  a  very  hard 


POWER    OF    CURIOSITY.  295 

species  of  lava.  By  way  of  experimentj  I 
plunged  my  hand  into  one  of  these  springs, 
and  found,  as  a  reward  of  my  scientific  zeal, 
the  burning  of  my  fingers  and  ridicule  of  my 
companions. 

Scarcely  is  there  a  stronger  principle  in  the 
mind  of  man  than  ciinositi/.  For  this  he  will 
endure  the  burning  heat  of  equatorial  regions, 
brave  the  rigors  of  the  polar  seas,  and  trav- 
erse the  wildest  land  in  uninhabited  parts,  and 
that  in  a  most  uncomfortable  manner,  with  a 
little  commingling  of  pride,  perhaps,  that  he 
may  have  the  satisfaction  of  proclaiming  to 
others  the  fact  of  having  placed  his  foot  on 
soil  that  mortal  man  beside  had  never  trod. 
Such  tireless  energy  enlisted  in  moral  reforms, 
and  how  soon  this  world  would  "bloom  as 
the  rose." 


CHAPTER    Xiy. 

MORMON     REFUGEES. — VISIT     TO     GOLD     CANON.  —  EX- 
PERIENCE  AMONG    THE    MOUNTAINS. NIGHT    IN   THE 

hermit's   CAVE. RETURN   TO    FRENCH    CREEK. 

Our  wild,  rugged,  and  winding  path,  that 
led  US  to  the  Mormon  trading  post,  was  not  an 
unapt  emblem  of  the  dangerous,  deceitful,  and 
wily  stratagems  of  this  deluded  people.  We 
found  a  laro;e  emio;rant  train  from  Salt  Lake 
City  —  about  a  hundred  large,  covered  wagons, 
with  an  averas-e  of  five  voke  of  cattle  to 
each.  They  had  halted  for  a  day's  rest  on 
their  way  to  California,  this  being  the  first 
spot  this  side  the  Desert  where  they  could 
obtain  supplies  of  grass  and  water.  Many  of 
them  were  Mormons,  who  had  forsaken  their 
earthly  Canaan,  tired,  disgusted,  and  robbed 
of  all  their  worldly  possessions ;  having  man- 
aged to  escape  in  company  with  a  Western 
emigrant  train,  thankful   to   get   away  alive. 

(296) 


MORMON    REFUGEES.  297 

Were  they  to  return  to  the  land  they  had  left, 
they  would  doubtless  be  murdered,  for  the 
chief  axiom  of  their  paradisiac  polity  is,  that 
"  dead  men  tell  no  tales." 

We  heard  from  the  lips  of  these  refugees 
many  sickening  details  of  their  Mormon 
experience.  Some  of  them  had  repeatedly 
endeavored  to  escape  from  the  dominions  of 
their  tyrannical  rulers,  but  without  success,  for 
the  dissatisfied  are  closely  watched,  and  not 
permitted  to  leave  the  premises  at  all.  Making 
due  allowance  for  exaggeration,  arising  from 
excitement  and  anger,  these  stories,  which  fully 
agreed  in  all  general  respects,  indicated  a  state 
of  things  forbidding  and  terrible  in  the  ex- 
treme, in  their  community,  especially  in  regard 
to  the  abject  mental  servitude  which  they 
were  obliged  to  render  while  they  remained. 
How  human  beings  can  be  made  to  believe 
the  absurd  articles  of  the  Mormon  creed,  and 
to  submit  to  the  rule  of  such  miserable,  un- 
principled leaders,  it  passes  my  understanding 
to  conceive.  These  poor  fellows  seemed  to 
contemplate  with  peculiar  satisfaction  the 
prospect  of  speedily  entering  a  land  of  peace 


298  THE    SEASONS.       CROPS. 

and  plenty,  where  they  could  liave  the  right 
of  securing  to  themselves  quiet  and  pleasant 
homes,  to  be  enjoyed  without  the  fear  of  being 
molested  by  a  brutal  tyrant. 

30  th.  —  After  our  wearisome  march,  we  are 
glad  to  rest  a  little  at  the  station.  It  is  now 
the  last  of  June,  and  the  gardens  about  here 
are  just  beginning  to  look  well.  Corn  and 
potatoes  are  just  breaking  through  the  ground, 
and  wheat  and  other  grain  are  about  a  foot 
high.  The  seasons  in  this  valley  are  so 
changeable,  that  no  dependence  can  be  placed 
upon  having  a  full  crop  of  any  kind.  In  gen- 
eral, however,  a  sufficient  quantity  of  grain 
and  vegetables  are  raised  to  supply  the  wants 
of  the  few  scattered  traders  who  alone  in- 
habit the  valley,  beside  having  a  small  surplus 
to  sell  to  emigrants.  The  water  is  miserable 
throughout  the  valley,  with  the  exception  of 
one  or  two  small  streams,  that  flow  down  from 
the  mountains ;  and  even  these  grow  warm 
and  alkaline  before  they  proceed  far  from  the 
heated  alkaline  sands  through  which  they  pass. 
During  the  whole  time  we  were  on  the  main 


SPURIOUS    VISITORS.  299 

emigrant  trail,  we  were  never  out  of  sight  of 
dead  cattle,  poisoned  by  the  water,  which  has 
no  very  strong  taste,  and  which  they  drink  as 
eagerly  as  any  other. 

Beside    the  creature  comforts  of  grass  and 
water,  we  have  found   company  in  two  hard- 
looking  young  men,  who  have  been  here  sev- 
eral days,  waiting,  as  they  say,  for  some  train 
from  Horse-town.     This   latter  place,  and  an- 
other similar  to  it,  called  Eag-town,  are  stations 
eighty  or  a  hundred  miles    distant  from   this 
place,  just  on  the  edge  of  the  Desert  —  rendez- 
vous, both  of  them,  for  thieves  and  all  manner 
of  frontier  vagabonds,  who  hang  about  hoping 
to   find   treasures  in   robbing  those  who  pass 
their  way.     Tlie  business  of  our   two   young 
friends    is  doubtless    of    the    same    character. 
The  meag-er  willows  alono-  the  brook  not  af- 
fording  us  sufficient  shelter  to  camp  under,  we 
have  been  obliged,  as  often  before  in  Australia, 
to    sleep    with    the  earth   for   a  bed,  and   the 
starry  heavens  for  a   canopy,  and  without  a 
fire,  notwithstanding  the  danger  of  wild  beasts' 
company  is    still  imminent.     The   weather   is 
excessively  hot.     To  this  we  are  particularly 


300  CARSON    VALLEY    SINK. 

sensitive,  so  great  is  the  contrast  between  the 
deep,  sandy  roads,  open  to  the  burning  rays  of 
the  sun,  and  our  preceding  journey  among 
lofty  mountains,  frequently  under  the  shade  of 
trees,  varied  with  an  occasional  snow  bank. 
Yesterday,  soon  after  sunset,  it  began  to  grow 
cold ;  the  wind  changed,  and  instead  of  blow- 
ino;  from  the  eastward,  across  the  heated  sands 
of  the  desert,  it  came  down  from  the  chilly 
mountain  tops,  changing  the  atmosphere  sud- 
denly, and  rendering  ns  very  uncomfortable. 
Upon  rising  this  morning  we  found  the  water 
frozen  in  our  tin  cups  —  a  curious  instance  of 
the  rapid  and  extreme  variation  of  tempera- 
ture, to  which  the  peculiar  nature  and  position 
of  this  valley,  close  beneath  the  snowy  Sierra 
on  one  side,  and  the  hot  desert  on  the  other, 
subject  it. 

Large  portions  of  the  northern  part  of  the 
valley  consist  of  low,  marshy  tracts,  often  called 
"  Carson  Yalley  Sink,"  in  which  the  river  of  the 
same  name  spreads  and  loses  itself  In  the 
summer  these  dry  up,  and  become,  as  it  were, 
sheets  of  white  alkali,  —  soda  or  nitre, —  as  hard 
and  smooth  as  ceiling.    The  former  of  these  sub- 


GOLD    CANON.  301 

stances  is  quite  extensively  used  in  California 
for  cooking,  and  various  domestic  purposes,  and 
serves  very  well. 

We  have  visited  Gold  Canon,  some  miles 
distant  down  the  river,  w^here  we  expected  to 
find  many  miners  at  work,  but  w^ere  disap- 
pointed in  learning  that  nearly  all  of  them  had 
left  for  California  the  year  before,  water  having 
failed  them.  About  fifty,  of  more  daring  spirit 
than  the  rest,  remained,  but  were  finally  frozen 
in  and  compelled  to  stay  through  the  winter. 
They  established  themselves  in  houses  of  slabs, 
procured  a  quantity  of  fuel,  and  made  them- 
selves as  comfortable  as  possible  without  any 
communication  across  the  mountains ;  early  in 
the  spring  recommenced  digging,  and  had  only 
recently  left  for  California,  at  the  commence- 
ment of  the  present  dry  season.  Only  two  or 
three  were  left;  one  an  aged  man,  gleaning 
about  on  old  claims,  scarcely  making  more  than 
a  living,  and  ready  to  leave  at  any  time.  This 
canon  is  a  narrow  ravine,  fifteen  or  twenty 
miles  in  length,  stretching  up  westward  from 
Carson  Yalley,  among  the  lower  hills  that  skirt 
the  range.     No  canvassing  had  been  done  fur- 

26 


302  A   NEW    ACQUAINTANCE. 

tlier  up  than  three  miles,  for  fear  of  the  Wah- 
satch  or  Wau-shaw  Indians^  and  we  dared 
venture  a  little  further  ourselves.  It  is  a 
strange  rift,  often  not  more  than  twenty  yards 
wide  at  the  bottom,  and  frequently  overhung 
on  both  sides  with  projecting  masses  of  lava, 
in  many  curious  forms,  apparently  thus  con- 
gealed while  in  motion  from  some  volcanic 
crater.  In  the  distance  these  black,  bulging 
masses  appeared  like  solidified  thunder  clouds, 
on  the  point  of  closing  over  the  chasm.  Of 
such  extreme  hardness  is  the  rock,  we  had 
great  difficulty  in  breaking  off  a  few  of  the 
small  cubes,  into  which  its  substance  seems  to 
have  crystallized. 

I  have  made  some  excursions,  in  company 
with  a  young  German,  with  whom  I  have  be- 
come acquainted,  who  has  been  at  work  in  the 
mines  —  a  smart,  active  fellow,  formerly  em- 
ployed in  the  adventurous  business  of  carrying 
the  United  States'  mail  through  the  enemy's 
country  during  the  Mexican  war.  In  one  in- 
stance, we  met  some  traders  who  gave  us  such 
a  desperate  account  of  the  place  we  intended 
to  visit,  and   of  the   wretches  who   gathered 


RUBIES.  303 

there,  ^ye  concluded  it  was  best  to  abandon  the 
imdertakmg  and  return.  In  a  small  hollow, 
out  of  sight  except  on  very  near  approach,  we 
found  some  deserted  Indian  huts,  though  hav- 
ing the  appearance  of  being  occupied  until 
quite  recently.  We  also  discovered  a  solitary 
Yankee  established  in  a  little  "shanty,"  near 
the  emigrant  trail,  where  he  was  dispensing 
manna  in  the  wilderness  from  a  stand,  in  the 
shape  of  ginger  cakes,  small  beer,  and  sarsa- 
parilla.  Business  in  his  line,  however,  seems 
not  very  brisk,  and  he  appeared  anxious  to 
sell  out. 

A  young  man  employed  as  clerk  at  a  trading 
post,  near  us,  has  shown  me  quite  a  quantity  of 
small  rubies,  procured  at  a  canon  sixty  miles 
down  the  valley.  He  proposes  to  unite  in  an 
expedition  for  the  purpose  of  enriching  our-  ' 
selves  with  more  of  these  sparkling  treasures, 
but  as  the  neighborhood  is  remote  from  any 
white  settlement  or  trading  post,  and  is,  more- 
over, dangerously  infested  with  hostile  tribes 
of  Indians,  I  decline.  Beside,  I  am  weary  with 
this  desultory  exploration.  I  have  seen  enough 
of  this  barren  and  inhospitable  region,  and  am 


304     DEPARTURE  FROM  CARSON  VALLEY. 

disposed,  yea,  more,  determined,  to   go  back  to 
Sacramento,  let  others  do  as  they  may. 

July  loth.  —  The  use  of  the  pen  has  been 
an  entirely  mipracticable  thing  during  the 
lonely  and  protracted  wanderings  in  which  I 
have  recently  been  engaged ;  therefore  the  lei- 
sure that  follows  must  atone  for  all.  When  our 
little  company  came  together  among  the  moun- 
tains, to  consult  upon  the  matter  of  returning 
to  civilized  society,  they  promised  to  be  ready 
on  the  next  day ;  but  feeling  disinclined  at  the 
appointed  time,  I  expressed  my  intention  of 
going  at  any  rate  ;  at  which  a  council  was 
called,  and  an  equitable  division  of  our  scanty 
stock  of  tea  and  flour  made  for  the  emergency. 

To  this  my  German  friend  added  a  grateful 
memorial  of  his  friendship  in  the  shape  of  a 
piece  of  ham  and  a  small  quantity  of  tea. 
Thus  supplied,  I  shook  hands  with  my  com- 
panions, bade  them  adieu,  and  set  out  to  return 
to  Sacramento  alone,  across  the  mountains,  by 
the  tremendous  Georo-etown  trail  —  a  dano-er- 
ous  trip,  not  only  from  the  difficulties  of  the 
route,  but  also  from  the  risk  of  meeting  blood- 


A    PERILOUS    UNDERTAKING.  805 

thirsty  Indians.  But  I  had  seen  enough  and  to 
spare  of  Carson  Valley,  and  longed  to  get  back 
into  the  embrace  of  friends,  and  a  less  moun- 
tainous country,  though  I  had  not  been  with- 
out enjoyment  of  Nature  in  her  most  wild  and 
rugged  aspects.  So,  with  the  perfect  reckless- 
ness of  a  genuine  mountain  man,  I  hazarded 
my  life  to  gratify  my  desire,  beside  failing 
somewhat  in  consistency;  for  all  three  of  us 
had  avowed  most  strenuously,  a  short  time 
before,  that  no  possible  consideration  could 
induce  us  to  travel  over  the  road  again.  In 
like  manner  seamen  in  a  storm,  or  peculiarly 
rough  voyage,  often  declare  nothing  will  ever 
tempt  them  to  make  another  voyage,  and  then 
ship  again  almost  the  moment  they  get  home. 
Indeed,  I  have  heard  it  urged,  with  some 
plausibilitj',  that  men  are  very  likely  to  do 
precisely  that  which  they  agree  and  determine 
within  themselves  not  to  do,  and  that  this 
is  the  practical  statement  of  the  doctrine  of 
an  '^overriding  irrovidencer  Having  journeyed 
twelve  miles  on  thj  homeward  way,  I  over- 
took a  man  traveling  in  the  same  direction, 
evidently  of  the  Anglo-Saxon  race,  wiry  and 

26* 


306  ESCAPE   FROM    RATTLESNAKES. 

tall,  with  brown  hair,  blue  eyes,  leathern  gar- 
ments throughout,  and  a  rifle.  As  we  were  con- 
versing together  on  the  way,  he  told  me  that  he 
had  lived  two  years  in  the  valley,  and  was  now 
on  his  way  to  his  place  of  abode,  a  few  miles 
from  the  trail,  up  a  canon  in  the  mountains. 
He  gave  me  a  pressing  invitation  to  spend  the 
night  with  him,  promising  that  I  should  lose 
nothing  by  leaving  the  route,  as  he  would  take 
me  to  it  in  the  morning  by  a  shorter  cut. 
Upon  these  terms  I  accepted,  and  after  walk- 
ing on  the  road  an  hour  or  two,  we  turned  off 
toward  the  Sierra,  gradually  ascending  through 
a  rolling  country,  covered  with  sage-bush,  and 
swarming  with  rattlesnakes. 

Once,  as  I  stooped  to  gather  some  brightr 
yellow ''  everlasting,"  I  put  my  face  within  six 
inches  of  one  of  these  venomous  creatures, 
and  only  sprang  backward  at  the  sound  of  the 
rattles  in  season  to  save  myself  from  its  poi- 
sonous fangs.  A  little  further  on,  as  I  was 
earnestly  engaged  in  conversation,  my  stalwart 
companion  suddenly  seized  me  by  the  shoulder," 
and  threw  me  very  unceremoniously  some  dis- 
tance into  the  bushes.     A   thought   instantly 


MOUNTAIN    PRECIPICES.  307 

flashed  across  my  mind  that  he  had  enticed  me 
into  these  wilds  to  murder  me^  but  I  was  soon 
assured  it  was  only  a  friendly  rudeness,  to  save 
me  from  the  unfortunate  step  I  was  about  to 
take,  which  would  have  j)lanted  me  directly 
on  one  of  these  unwelcome  foes.  Rattlesnakes, 
in  my  opinion,  are  like  many  human  beings  — 
^  Jmndsome^  hid  hcdefiiH' 

After  a  little  time,  w^e  entered  a  dark  and 
narrow  ravine,  through  which  ran  a  stream 
of  pure  ice-water  from  the  top  of  the  moun- 
tain, which  here  towered  almost  perpendicu- 
larly over  our  heads.  The  scenery  was  of  a 
peculiar  character,  somewhat  new  to  me ;  the 
rocks  being  exceedingly  steep  and  craggy, 
often  forming  large,  overhanging  cliffs  and 
precipices,  from  whose  crevices  grew  trees  and 
dense  shrubbery.  The  path  grew  more  steep 
and  rugged  at  every  step.  For  a  full  half 
mile  we  climbed  a  gigantic  natural  staircase 
of  shelving  rocks,  whose  foundations  were  laid 
in  the  bottom  of  the  chasm,  and  so  steep  and 
slippery  as  to  require  great  care  and  exertion 
to  prevent  one's  self  from  falling  over  back- 
ward.     At    this   point   the   pathway  beyond 


308  A   ROMANTIC    CAVE. 

seemed  to  lose  all  appearance  of  regularity,  and 
disappear  entirely  among  the  huge  rocks  and 
cliffs  by  the  side  of  the  dashing  torrent.  Still 
we  toiled  on,  a  distance  that  seemed  to  me,  in 
my  exhausted  state,  not  less  than  ten  miles, 
but  probably  not  more  than  two  or  three. 

At  last  I  pleaded  for  rest,  for  strength  and 
breath  seemed  well  nigh  gone,  and  further 
effort  seemed  vain  and  useless.  He  revived 
my  drooping  spirits  by  assuring  me  it  was 
only  a  few  rods  ahead,  or  rather  overhead^  for, 
upon  looking  up,  it  was  evident  we  could  pro- 
ceed but  a  little  distance,  for  we  were  entering 
a  vast  cave,  whose  rocky  roof  met  over  us. 
With  one  more  earnest  effort  we  were  at  the 
vestibule  of  my  friend's  mansion  —  a  strange 
and  wild  abode  in  truth. 

It  was  walled  and  roofed  with  the  living 
rock,  while  its  exterior  was  gracefully  and 
elaborately  adorned  with  festoons  and  pen- 
dants of  thick-trailing  plants,  growing  from 
every  crevice.  Within,  the  smooth  stone  floor 
supported  natural  divans,  of  the  same  solid 
material,  which  served  for  store  rooms,  seats, 
and  bed.     In   one   side   was   a   recess,   which 


APPEARANCE    Of    THE    CAVE.  309 

served  for  a  fireplace,  above  which  a  natural 
outlet  formed  a  commodious  chimney.  Close 
beside  the  grand  arched  door-way,  a  waterfall 
poured  over  a  cliff,  almost  hidden  by  thick 
foliage,  furnishing  a  perennial  fountain  of  pure, 
cold  water.  On  either  side  of  the  stream,  and 
above  us  as  far  as  I  could  see  in  the  shades  of 
the  evening,  the  sharp,  craggy  rocks  projected 
in  such  wise  as  to  render  it  an  evident  impos- 
sibility for  man  or  beast  to  reach  us  in  any 
other  way  but  by  the  path  w^e  came.  While 
my  host  was  busy  in  household  matters,  I 
bathed  my  heated  head,  neck,  and  hands  in 
the  cool,  dashing  stream,  and  sat  down  outside 
to  indulge  in  a  few  moments  of  repose  and  ro- 
mance. The  evening  was  clear  and  warm, 
the  scene  almost  one  of  enchantment  for  wild- 
ness  and  beauty.  As  I  sat  gazing  out  into 
the  darkness  at  the  dim  rocks,  I  could  hear 
the  chirping  of  crickets,  and  the  voice  of  a 
whip-poor-will,  mingled  with  the  incessant  dash 
of  the  roaring  waterfall.  The  moon  rose  uj)on 
me  at  length  with  its  clear,  silvery  light,  dis- 
plaj^ing  with  considerable  distinctness  the  long 
vista  of  the  rugged  gorge  through  which  we 


o 


10  WILD    BEASTS. 


had  ascended,   and   further   on   a   portion   of 
the  plain  below. 

All  at  once  I  was  aroused  from  my  reverie 
by  the  howling  of  wild  beasts,  seemingly  close 
at  hand.  "Don't  be  alarmed,"  said  my  host, 
perceiving  my  trepidation ;  "  the  beasts  could 
not  reach  us,  if  they  wished  to,  without  going 
all  the  way  to  the  plain,  and  coming  up  the 
canon ;  and  they  are  not  likely  to  take  all  that 
trouble  for  us.  Beside,  I  should  not  have 
brought  you  so  far  up  the  mountain  just  to 
expose  you  to  wild  beasts."  Conjecture  was 
busy  as  to  what  could  have  induced  him  to 
select  such  a  remote  and  inaccessible  home,  so 
far  from  any  human  being,  without  even  a 
dog  for  a  companion,  in  absolute  solitude,  ex- 
cept the  invisible  animals,  whose  dismal  yells 
kept  up  a  constant  serenade.  Something  of 
his  history,  and  the  reasons  of  such  conduct, 
were  finally  divulged  in  the  course  of  conver- 
sation. He  had  discovered  the  cave  a  year  and 
a  half  before,  while  rambling  in  the  mountains, 
and  had  occupied  it  ever  since.  He  was 
originally  from  an  eastern  city,  formerly  held 
a  good  social  position,  was  a  man  of  consider- 


THE   SOLITAIKE.  311 

able  cultivation^  unmistakable  marks  of  which 
were  apparent,  and  his  conversation  showed 
much  familiarity  w^th  books.  He  had  a  few 
with  him,  his  favorite  being  "  Pope's  Essay  on 
Man,"  and  ^'  Zimmerman  on  Solitude."  Trouble 
and  disappointment  had  driven  him  from  his 
early  home.  The  tender  affections  of  his  heart 
had  been  blighted,  and  he  sought  relief  only 
in  the  silent  sympathy  of  nature.  A  poor 
antidote,  methought,  for  sorrow,  to  flee  into 
deserts  and  caves,  existing  without  human  so- 
ciety ;  and  indeed,  my  host  showed  that  soli- 
tude has  not  its  full  sweetness  without  some- 
body to  whom  to  say  that  it  is  sweet.  He 
urged  me  to  remain  with  him,  and  share  with 
him  his  occupations  and  his  castle ;  but  think- 
ing it  unfavorable  to  the  development  of  true 
character  in  any  sense,  I  could  not  think  of  it. 
I  felt  more  like  sa3dng,  with  all  the  earnest- 
ness of  the  captive  exile,  — 

"  O  Solitude  !  where  are  the  charms 
That  sages  have  seen  in  thy  face  ?  " 

Said  sages,  however,  might  have  seen  but  few 
charms,  had  the  sharp  eyes  of  grizzly  bears 
peered  at  them  over  rocks,  and  disturbed  them 
in  their  slumbers  by  their  howling  cries. 


312  THE  hermit's  entertainment. 

We  lay  down  to  rest,  for  the  night,  upon  a 
bed  of  buffalo  robes,  soothed  to  sleep  by  the 
voice  of  the  waterfall,  and  early  next  morning 
the  hermit  prepared  his  breakfast  of  tea,  hard 
bread,  and  fried  ham.  The  mountain  air  was 
clear,  cool,  and  delightfully  bracing.  As  the 
bright  beams  of  the  morning  sun  shone  direct- 
ly upon  and  into  the  long  and  rocky  gorge, 
lighting  up,  and  reflected  from  stone,  foliage, 
and  dashing  water,  the  dreary  place  was  in- 
deed invested  with  something  of  beauty ;  and 
I  was  inclined  to  consider  it  a  delightful  abode, 
had  there  only  been  society,  that  essential 
thing  to  meet  the  demands  of  almost  every 
human  heart.  According  to  agreement,  my 
new  companion  directed  me  on  my  way,  by  a 
path  that  saved  several  miles,  conducting  me 
safely  for  a  good  distance,  when  he  left  me, 
with  many  regrets  and  good  wishes,  to  con- 
tinue my  journey  alone.  At  night  I  camped 
on  the  very  spot  where  I  with  my  two  asso- 
ciates had  spent  the  night  a  short  time  before ; 
kindled  my  fire  on  some  logs  that  burned 
briskly  and  bright ;  boiled  water  for  my  tea  in 
the  same  tin  cup  which  I  had  carried  and  used 


THE    SABBATH.  313 

daily  on  the  Peytona,  the  Nautilus,  and  the 
Sacusa,  in  Brazil,  Africa,  the  Isle  of  France, 
Australia,  and  Peru.  During  the  day  I  had 
looked  forward  with  no  little  apprehension  to 
this  hour,  for  I  was  miles  from  any  human 
being,  in  mountain  forests,  noted  for  abun- 
dance of  wild  beasts,  and  haunted  in  certain 
portions  by  hostile  Indians.  But  by  the  time 
I  had  finished  my  supper,  prepared  my  resting 
place,  replenished  my  fires,  I  was  quite  too 
w^eary  to  allow  fear  its  indulgence,  and  calmly 
rolled  myself  in  my  blanket,  and  w^ent  in- 
stantly to  sleep. 

Refreshed  and  invigorated  by  eight  or  nine 
hours  of  sweet  repose,  I  awoke  on  the  morning 
of  the  Sabbath  —  the  sun  already  high  enough 
to  enlighten  all  the  landscape.  I  sat  for  a 
time  quietlj''  enjoying  the  scene ;  and  never 
have  I  experienced  an  hour  of  more  perfect 
and  sacred  stillness  than  then.  Not  a  breeze 
—  not  a  leaf,  was  stirring.  The  mountains, 
the  valley,  and  the  woods  were  in  still  repose, 
save  the  occasional  chirp  or  twitter  of  a  bird, 
and  the  faint  gurgle  of  the  brook.  All  over 
the  vast  mountain  that  towered   above   me; 

27 


314  BEGUILING    THE   WAY. 

the  broad,  green  valley  stretching  far  away 
below ;  the  groups  of  trees  that  crowned  the 
rounded  hill  on  which  I  sat ;  the  green  slopes 
that  curved  away  to  the  ravine  on  either  side, 
and  at  the  end,  lil^e  the  sides  of  a  vast  bastion, 
and  even  in  the  pure,  motionless  air,  there 
seemed  to  be  a  pervading  spirit  of  peace  and 
love.  I  could  not  have  avoided  the  feeling, 
even  had  I  wished  it,  that  it  was  the  Sabbath 
of  God  that  made  this  lovely  Sabbath  of  nature. 
My  provisions  were  scanty,  however,  and  I 
could  not  remain.  Slowly  I  resumed  my  toil- 
some march  among  the  mountain  defiles,  some- 
times talking  and  singing  to  myself  as  I  went, 
and  enjoying  the  echo  of  my  own  voice;  for 
what  I  repeated  in  an  ordinary  tone  was  often 
echoed  with  so  much  distinctness  I  involun- 
tarily looked  around  me  to  discern  some  quiet 
traveler  as  yet  unperceived.  Sometimes  I 
sang  old  songs ;  sometimes  a  psalm  tune ;  and 
often  some  of  the  noble  chants  of  the  Episco- 
pal church  service.  This  homely  music  had  a 
curious  effect  upon  my  pace,  for  I  repeatedly 
caught  myself  walking  not  so  much  according 
to  the  measure  and  rhythm  of  the  tune,  as  to 


LONELINESS.  315 

the  spirit  and  life  of  the  words.  If  I  sang  a 
plaintive  song  or  chanted  a  solemn  chorus,  I 
proceeded  slowly,  and  more  than  once  I  found 
myself  upon  a  full  run,  under  the  inspiriting 
influence  of  some  gay  and  lively  ditty.  These 
varied  and  irregular  changes  in  my  speed 
would  doubtless  have  presented  a  highly  ab- 
surd appearance  to  a  spectator  knowing  noth- 
ing of  the  cause.  A  habit  of  self-questioning 
is  very  prevalent  among  mountain  men  and 
miners — a  very  natural  one  ;  for  having  but 
few  companions,  they  would  otherwise  speak 
but  little ;  and  the  defining  power  of  speech, 
except  to  those  carefully  trained,  or  unusually 
gifted  with  mental  clearness,  is  absolutely  es- 
sential to  connected,  satisfactory  thinking. 

I  had  so  long  been  accustomed  to  company 
in  traveling,  I  began  to  think  my  situation 
dreary  in  the  extreme.  The  night  after  the 
Sabbath  found  me  in  the  heart  of  the  Sierra 
Nevada,  fenced  in  with  lofty  mountains,  tipped 
with  snow,  while  the  twinkling  stars  looked 
down  from  the  vault  of  heaven,  as  if  in  mourn- 
ful sympathy  with  the  lonely  wanderer.  Sud- 
denly a  Waw-shaw  Indian   appeared,   with   a 


316  AN   UNCOMFORTABLE   NIGHT. 

great  fish  in  his  hand,  "svhich  he  had  caught 
in  the  lake.  We  exchanged  a  few  words  of 
mountain  salutation,  and  he  passed  on  to  his 
encampment,  leaving  me  with  no  additional 
sense  of  security.  The  sun  went  down,  the 
wind  began  to  rise,  and  soon  increased  to  a 
gale,  sweeping  down,  in  furious,  sudden  blasts, 
from  the  snowy  peaks,  wailing  and  whistling, 
while  the  trees  creaked  and  murmured.  Cold 
and  weary,  with  onl}^  the  dim  starlight,  and 
ignorant  of  what  perils  might  be  near  me, 
my  mind  became  agitated  with  uncomfortable 
fancies.  I  could  see  stransre  shadows  movino: 
upon  the  ground  under  the  trees  around  me, 
and  hear  occasional  low  cries  and  sounds,  like 
groans  —  probably  from  some  beasts  in  the 
vicinity. 

Welcome  indeed  was  the  first  coming  of 
dawn ;  and  as  soon  as  I  could  distinguish 
the  trail  I  was  again  on  my  way.  Knowing 
that  I  was  to  cross  a  high  ridge  some  five 
miles  distant,  I  determined  to  try  a  shorter 
path,  which  I  fancied  would  save  me  a  crooked 
journey  around  and  over  the  intervening  hills, 
I   wandered   over   ridges   and   across   canons, 


r- 


DOUBT    AND    ANXIETY.  317 

through  woods  and  stream s,  until  at  the  end  of 
two  or  three  miles  I  was  entirely  bewildered 
by  the   endless  changes  of  the   scenery,  and 
had  quite  lost  my  way.     I  turned  about,  and 
very  humbly  sought  my  way  to  the  spot  from 
whence  I  had  diverged,  but  not  without  much 
perplexity.     This  hour  or  two  of  anxiety,  while 
my  route  was  doubtful,  afforded  me  more  of 
mental  torture  than  I  had  experiened  for  a 
long  time  before.     It  taught  me  a  lesson,  and 
one  that  I  might  have  learned  in  Australia  — 
that  it  is  exceedingly  unsafe,  especially  for  one 
that  is  alone,  to  leave  the  route  selected  by  the 
combined  judgment  of  preceding  travelers,  for 
the  sake  of  any  presumed  short  path  or  other 
conveniences.     Great  was  my  delight  at  reach- 
ing Diamond  Springs,  where  I  could  hear  the 
sound  of  familiar  voices.     I  found  them  cele- 
brating a  public  anniversary ;  the  place  alive, 
as  it  were,  with  preparations  for  the  gay  and 
joyful  occasion.     I  only  delayed  to  call  upon 
a  few  friends,  and  passed  on  to  French  Creek, 
where  I  have  established  myself  at  the  ranch 
of  Captain   Pike,  where   I   purpose  to  spend 
some   days   in    gold-hunting   in   the   vicinity. 

27* 


318  GOLD    DTGGINQ. 

Hard  labor,  however,  is  out  of  the  question ; 
for  I  am  more  desirous  of  quiet  rest  than 
great  pecuniary  gain.  Here,  in  a  secluded 
canon,  quite  alone,  I  shall  have  opportunity  for 
much  solitary  meditation,  beside  the  prospect 
of  making  about  ^ye  dollars  a  week,  free  of 
expense.  The  proportion  of  those  who  really 
earn  any  large  amount  is  quite  as  small  in 
California  as  in  Australia. 

If  any  one  would  have  a  sample  of  gold 
digging,  no  more  satisfactory  experiment  could 
be  made  than  to  take  some  street  where  the 
ground  is  very  hard,  dig  a  drain  in  it,  perhaps 
six  feet  in  depth,  three  in  wddth,  and  of  any 
desirable  length.  While  working  at  the  low- 
er foot  of  this,  all  the  earth,  more  especially 
the  lumps  and  harder  pieces,  should  be  rubbed 
to  fine  powder  between  the  hands,  closely  in- 
spected, and  then  thrown  away.  Such  is  the 
actual  experience  of  the  miners,  and  that  with 
continual  disappointment  and  "  hope  deferred." 

Thus  looking  at  these  things,  the  admonition 
of  the  wise  man  to  search  for  "  wisdom  "  as  for 
hid  treasures,  becomes  invested  with  a  ten- 
fold deeper  meaning  to  one  at  all  inclined  to 
spiritualize  ordinary  things  and  events. 


CHAPTER    XV. 

RESIDENCE  AT  SAN  FRANCISCO.  —  LIFE  ON  STEAMER 
CORTES.  —  MISSIONARY  TOUR.  —  SCHOOL  TEACHING. 
—  CAMP   MEETING. 

So  infrequent  were  my  journalizing  entries 
during  a  great  portion  of  my  life  in  California, 
by  reason  of  busy  occupation  or  busy  wander- 
ing, I  propose  to  give  in  the  present  chapter  a 
review  of  the  whole,  or  mainly,  with  incidents 
connected  thereto,  as  I  contem23lated  them  De- 
cember, 1855,  a  short  time  before  leaving  for 
New  England. 

After  returning  from  the  mountains,  and 
spending  some  time  at  French  Creek,  I  took 
up  my  residence  at  San  Francisco  for  two 
months,  not  engaged  in  any  fixed  occupation, 
but  rendered  somewhat  uneasy  by  idly  living 
in  one  place  so  long.  In  California,  partic- 
ularly, "  labor  is  honorable  ; "  and    professing 

(319) 


320  POP   CORN. 

a  hearty  sympathy  with  this  healthy  tone  of 
pubUc  opinion,  I  at  length  established  myself 
in  business,  by  gathering  quite    a  number  of 
subscribers   to   various   weekly    and    monthly 
periodicals,  purchasing  at  a  fair  rate  from  im- 
porters by  wholesale,  and  delivering  at  retail 
prices  immediately  upon  their  arrival.     During 
this  time  I  gained  many  pleasant  and  profitable 
acquaintances,  among  whom  was  a  gentleman 
in  the  "  pop-corn  "  business,  who  was  quite  "  an 
institution"  in  the  city,  receiving  a  net  profit 
of  something  like   ten   dollars  a  day  by  his 
operations.     He  was  a  shrewd   Massachusetts 
Yankee,  had   fully  matured  his   plans   before 
coming  out,  and  was  ready  for  action  on  his 
arrival.     His  corn  was  shipped  to   him  from 
NcAV  England,  around  the  Horn ;  he  parched  it 
himself  at  night,  and  with  not  less  than  eighty 
or  a  hundred  quarts,  modestly  promenaded  the 
streets  with  an  enormous  basket  on  each  arm, 
waiting  on  chance  or  regular  customers  in  a 
very  quiet  way,  in  no  wise  detracting  from  his 
dignity.     Indeed,  he  filled  the  office  just  as  a 
dignified  republican  ought   to   fill   any  office, 
being  a  valuable  member  of  society,  and  at  the 
same  time  consulted  his  own  best  interests. 


NEW   EMPLOYMENT.  321 

Having  laid  up  some  money,  and  being  able 
to  command  a  little  credit  and  influence,  my 
views  began  somewhat  to  enlarge,  and  I  con- 
ceived a  plan  for  establishing  a  bookstore,  in 
company  with  a  young  man  of  my  acquaint- 
ance. Ere  the  thing  was  decided  in  the  mind 
of  my  proposed  partner,  another  opportunity 
presented  itself  of  employment  in  another 
direction.  Another  acquaintance,  who  had 
been  storekeeper  on  the  steamship  Cortes, 
running  between  San  Francisco  and  San  Juan 
del  Sur,  on  the  Nicaragua  route,  was  about  to 
give  up  his  place,  and  offered  to  aid  me  in 
securing  the  position  if  I  wished.  Prompti- 
tude is  the  first  of  practical  virtues,  especially 
in  California  ;  and  acting  on  this,  the  bookstore 
scheme  was  dropped,  the  kind  offer  of  my 
friend  accepted,  and  I  was  speedily  installed 
in  my  new  post,  once  more  floating  on  salt 
water. 

The  position  of  storekeeper  on  one  of  these 
large  ocean  steamers  is  one  of  no  small  respon- 
sibility and  influence.  The  steamer  itself,  with 
its  multitude  of  passengers,  constitutes  a  kind 
of  floating  city,  with  great  interests  and  great 


3'22  THE    OCEAN    STEAMER. 

revenues.  We  were  accustomed  to  carry  about 
three  hundred  first-cabin  passengers,  at  three 
hundred  dollars  each,  making  ninety  thousand 
dollars ;  and  five  hundred  in  the  second  cabin, 
at  one  hundred  and  fifty  dollars ;  which,  together 
with  what  was  realized  from  freight,  often 
amounted  to  the  handsome  sum  of  one  hundred 
and  eighty-five  thousand  dollars  the  single  trip. 
Including  passengers,  officers,  and  crew,  the 
whole  number  of  souls  on  board  was  usually 
about  a  thousand ;  and  by  virtue  of  my  of- 
fice, I  was  in  charge  of  all  the  provisions  and 
groceries  for  this  large  number,  which  it  was 
my  duty  to  serve  out  daily,  according  to  the 
written  demands  made  upon  me  by  the  steward. 
I  found  myself  at  once  a  universal  favorite 
among  the  ship's  company,  treated  by  all  (ex- 
cept, of  course,  the  superior  officers)  with  a 
degree  of  attention  which  I  was  scarcely  con- 
scious  of  deserving,  and  which  I  could  scarcely 
account  for,  until  I  learned  that  my  position 
enabled  me,  even  without  violating  any  obliga- 
tion, to  show  many  trifling  favors,  in  matters 
of  gastronomy.  Then  the  reason  of  the  flat- 
tering regard  was  clear ;  and  had  I  chosen  to 


THE    ILL-FATED    YANKEE    BLADE.  323 

be  a  little  less  virtuous,  it  is  difficult  to  tell 
what  the  limits  of  my  influence  might  have 
been.  It  was  on  board  this  ship  I  first  knew 
the  unfortunate  steamship  Yankee  Blade.  She 
lay  upon  the  other  side  of  the  dock  we  occu- 
pied, and  left  the  city  at  the  same  time  with 
"US.  She  was  an  immense  vessel,  crowded  be- 
yond all  description.  I  gazed  in  perfect  aston- 
ishment at  the  mass  of  human  beings  that 
crowded  her  every  part  as  she  glided  away 
from  the  wharf  into  the  bay.  She  could  not 
have  had  less  than  fifteen  hundred  souls  on 
board,  more  than  a  thousand  of  whom  were 
lost  this  same  trijD,  in  the  fearful  wreck  it  ex- 
perienced. Suspicions  of  foul  play  were  in  the 
minds  of  many,  for  she  carried  an  immense 
treasure  beside  what  was  in  the  hands  of  the 
passengers,  and  ran  upon  the  beach  in  a  clear 
night,  in  calm  weather,  in  a  manner  that  has 
always  remained  a  mystery. 

During  the  second  voyage  in  the  steamer 
Cortes,  I  made  an  excursion  to  the  Pearl 
Islands,  which  are  scarcely  more  than  a  group 
of  low  rocks  and  reefs  in  the  sea,  the  largest 
only  being  inhabited,  and  that  by  a  sort  of  old 


324  PEARL    ISLANDS. 

patriarch,  and  fifteen  or  twenty  Indians,  who 
have  to  bring  their  water  from  the  main  land, 
and  who  Hve  by  fishing.  Here  we  obtained 
about  twenty  varieties  of  pearl  oysters,  cypres, 
&c.,  some  quite  rare  and  valuable.  We  gath- 
ered many  that  yet  contained  the  living  in- 
habitants, quaintly  formed  molluscs,  fantasti- 
cally mottled,  striped  and  speckled  with  bright 
colors,  giving  a  very  different  impression  of  the 
natural  history  of  the  class  from  that  derived 
only  from  the  study  of  the  dry  shell.  My  life 
on  shipboard,  during  these  two  voyages,  w^as 
not  marked  with  any  incidents  of  special  in- 
terest. The  duties  of  my  occupation  kept  me 
closely  confined  to  the  store  room  most  of  the 
time,  and  leisure  at  command  was  employed  in 
assisting  the  purser  in  writing.  The  confine- 
ment in  such  hot,  oppressive  atmosphere  telling 
sensibly  upon  my  health,  I  availed  myself  of 
the  first  suitable  occasion  to  resign,  and  w^ent 
on  shore  again.  The  mate  left  at  the  same 
time,  purchased  a  vessel,  and  made  a  propo- 
sition which  I  conditionally  accepted,  to  accom- 
pany him  as  a  sort  of  supercargo  in  a  trading 
voyage  to  China  and  the  seas  adjacent;   but 


PETALUMA.  325 

this,  it  seems,  was  not  "  to  be  my  destined  end 
and  way."     While    determining  and    securing 
the  necessary  outfit,  I   fell  in  with   Rev.  Mr. 
Richardson,  who  was  about  making  a  tour  of 
exploration,  in  behalf  of  a   missionary  body, 
through  Petaluma  and  Santa  Rosa  valleys  and 
the  country  thereabout.      I  at  first   declined 
his  invitation  to  join  him  in  this  excursion,  on 
account  of  sailing  for  China ;  but  finding  that  I 
could  return  in  season,  I  concluded  to  accom- 
pany him,  and  we  took  the  steamer  together 
for   Petaluma.     ^Ye  crossed  the  bay,  and  en- 
tered the  creek,  to  which  a  spur  of  the  coast 
range  extends,  skirting  its  valley  with  a  mar- 
gin of  low,  conical  hills ;  some  rugged  and  wild 
in  outline,  and  others   rounded    and   smooth ; 
some  thickly  wooded  with  oak  and  mansanita 
bushes,  and   others  quite   bare,  except   for  a 
thick   coat   of  ^^wild   oats,"  which   were   just 
springing   up   fresh    and    green,  it   being    the 
growing  month  of  January.     The  creek  is  the 
most  crooked  stream  I  have   ever  navigated, 
winding  about  in  th3  most  extravagant  man- 
ner, as  if  anxious  to  detain  all  comers  as  long 
as  possible.     Upon  reaching  the  town,  we  found 

28 


326  VISIT   TO    FATHER    GUERNSEY. 

it  to  be  a  scattered  collection,  mostly  of  wooden 
houses.  We  proceeded  to  the  tavern,  where, 
m  looking  over  some  pictures,  I  was  startled 
to  behold  the  face  of  a  friend,  whose  location 
in  the  wide  world  I  had  not  known  for  years, 
but  w^ho,  my  hostess  informed  me,  was  not 
more  than  ten  rods  distant — the  principal  of 
a  flourishing  school  of  one  hundred  and  fifty 
students.  We  immediately  repaired  to  his 
school  house  —  a  roomy  and  convenient  build- 
ing, w^ell  fitted,  and  furnished  with  modern 
desks,  maps,  globes,  and  other  apparatus,  giving 
to  it  a  character  and  solidity  that  quite  sur- 
prised and  pleased  us,  and  at  once  produced 
favorable  impressions  of  the  progress  of  this 
rural  district  in  education  and  general  intel- 
ligence. 

From  this  place  we  proceeded  to  Petaluma 
Flat,  or  rather  across  it,  to  the  dweUing  of 
"  Father  Guernsey,"  which  we  found  wdth  little 
difficulty,  as  every  one  knew  the  home  of  the 
venerable  man.  We  found  him  working  at  his 
trade  of  chair  making,  and  understood  that 
both  himself  and  chairs  were  known  in  the 
vicinity,  there  being  no  other  one  of  the  pro- 


ATTENDANCE  ON   A   PRAYER   MEETING.         327 

fession  in  the  place,  and  none  other  who,  like 
him,  devotes  all  the  time  and  strength  which 
he  can  spare  from  business  to  the  spiritual 
wants  of  the  po]3ulation. 

Upon  learning  our  errand,  he  received  us 
with  cordial  hospitality,  and  laying  aside  his 
tools,  proceeded  to  give  Mr.  R.  much  and  ju- 
dicious information  relative  to  the  purpose  of 
his  trip. 

He  was  a  man  of  commanding  presence, 
with  fine  head  and  features,  full  of  kindness 
and  intelligence  ;  had  resided  in  the  place  three 
years,  and  was  able  to  speak  of  the  moral  and 
intellectual  condition  of  the  people  with  some 
degree  of  accuracy.  After  spending  a  social 
hour  with  him  at  his  table,  he  spoke  of  an  ap- 
pointment to  hold  a  prayer  meeting,  and  in- 
vited us  to  accompany  him  thither,  adding,  in  a 
rather  significant  way,  that  the  Home  Mission- 
ary Society  had  sent  out  a  man  to  help  him, 
and  that  he  would  conduct  the  exercises  of  the 
hour.  The  place  of  assembly  was  a  log  school 
house,  a  mile  or  two  away  on  the  Petaluma 
side  of  the  creek.  The  gathered  worshipers 
were   thirty  or  forty  plain   men  and  women, 


328  SINGULAR   SERVICES. 

some  of  them  rough  emigrants,  mostly  from  the 
Western  States,  yet  of  warm  hearts,  and  sin- 
cere, though  blunt,  in  speaking  of  things  divine 
as  well  as  temporal.  They  seemed  to  have 
come  together  for  earnest  and  affectionate  com- 
munion with  each  other,  and  to  pour  out  their 
hearts  unitedly  before  God. 

The  missionary  entered,  —  a  spruce,  dignified 
young  graduate  from  an  eastern  theological 
seminary, —  clad  in  garments  of  spotless  black. 
There  were  a  few  moments  of  silence,  when 
the  young  brother  rose  and  offered  a  short  but 
earnest  prayer,  after  which  he  read  a  hymn, 
which  was  sung  by  the  little  company.  A 
pause  of  full  ten  minutes  ensued,  in  no  wise 
disturbing  the  gravity  or  dignity  of  the  young 
divine,  and  then  the  benediction  was  pro- 
nounced, and  the  assembly  was  dismissed. 
There  was  something  so  irresistibly  comic  in 
the  utter  helplessness  and  complete  frustration 
of  the  divine,  that  few  faces  were  without  a 
smile,  giving  rise  to  the  apprehension  that 
many  had  more  of  fun  in  their  hearts  than 
religious  consolation  as  the  effect  of  the 
meeting. 


EXCURSION   UP    COUNTRY.  329 

I  realized  at  once  the  difference,  not  between 
the  rehgions,  but  the  religious  exercises  of 
the  eastern  seminary  and  the  western  heart. 
This  young  clergyman  would  doubtless  have 
done  well  at  home,  with  a  few  active  Christian 
men  to  sustain  him,  where  every  thing  is  done 
by  a  kind  of  rule  ;  but  here,  where  there  is 
no  particular  rule,  where  all  denominations  are 
fused  together,  and  where  very  little  is  said,  or 
can  be  said,  except  from  the  overflowings  of 
rude  but  honest  hearts,  the  poor  man  was  as 
helpless  with  his  theology  and  his  ways,  as  if 
he  had  come  to  swim  in  the  ocean  with  fet- 
ters on. 

Next  morning,  Mr.  R  and  myself  made  a 
little  excursion  some  twenty  miles  up  the 
country,  in  the  direction  of  Santa  Eosa,  stop- 
ping at  almost  every  house  in  the  prosecution 
of  our  inquiries.  Nearly  all  the  inhabitants 
are  Pikes,  or  from  the  region  adjacent  to  that 
famous  county  of  Missouri  which  is  commonly 
called  "  the  State  of  Pike,"  and  which  has  con- 
tributed a  very  large  and  distinctly  marked 
element  to  the  population  of  California. 

We  found  a  very  few  Bibles,  and  scarcely 
28* 


330  ARRIVAL   AT    SANTA    ROSA. 

any  books,  or  printed  matter  of  any  kind,  ex- 
cept a  portion  of  the  miserable  "  yellow-covered 
literatm^e"  which  has  had  so  immense  a  sale 
in  this  state  as  well  as  most  others.  In  spite 
of  io-norance  and  uncultivation,  however,  there 
was  a  hearty,  overflowing  hospitahty  and  good 
feeling  about  the  people  that  really  delighted 
us.  Every  one  was  glad  to  see  us,  pleased  at 
our  errand,  and  as  anxious  as  any  apostle  could 
have  desired  for  the  establishment  of  schools 
and  churches  in  the  land. 

Thus  exploring  and  inquiring,  we  reached 
Santa  Rosa,  a  thriving  place,  and  the  county 
seat,  situated  in  the  midst  of  a  vast  natural 
park  not  quite  as  large  as  Petaluma.  Here  I 
left  Mr.  Richardson,  in  order  to  return,  but  not 
without  strong  and  repeated  solicitations  that 
I  would  abandon  my  intention  of  foreign 
travel,  and  engage  in  teaching  school  in  the 
valleys  of  Sonoma  county.  My  own  inclina- 
tions were  at  once  in  favor  of  so  doing,  for  I 
felt  myself  exceedingly  charmed  with  the 
lovely  landscape,  the  perfect  climate  and  rich 
soil  of  the  region,  as  well  as  the  free  and  open- 
hearted  character  of  the  people.     Not  wishing 


REJOICINGS.  331 

to  be  hasty,  however,  I  avoided  giving  any 
answer,  and  returned  to  Petaluma,  where  I 
found  my  friends  anxious  for  the  same  thing. 
Indeed,  the  eagerness  of  the  Petaluma  j^eople, 
men,  women,  and  speculators,  for  the  growth 
and  improvement  of  their  place,  passed  all  my 
conceptions,  though,  doubtless,  the  ambition  of 
the  latter  was  strongly  tinctured  with  self- 
ishness. The  place  numbered  some  five  hun- 
dred souls,  and  was  still  increasing.  We  were 
wont  to  say  the  town  grew  wdth  every  arrival 
of  the  boat.  Especially  did  the  crowd  at  the 
landing  place  rejoice  if  they  could  discern  the 
face  of  a  woman  on  deck.  For  every  bonnet 
they  could  count,  the  real-estate  proprietors 
said  to  themselves,  ''  So  many  building  lots 
sold  at  paying  prices."  I  have  actually  seen 
tears  in  the  eyes  of  these  earnest  watchmen  at 
an  unusually  large  feminine  immigration,  evi- 
dently from  pure  joy  at  the  prospect  of  their 
remunerative  sales.  "  Every  tear  is  a  dollar," 
remarked  a  friend  of  mine  one  day,  as  he 
pointed  out  one  of  these  lachrymose  rejoicers. 

Having  consulted  with  my  friends  at  San 
Francisco,  and   finding   their  ad\^ce   to    coin- 


332  TAKING    A   RANCH. 

cide  with  my  own  preference,  I  notified  my 
friend,  the  captain,  of  a  change  of  plans ;  fully 
determined  to  cast  in  my  lot  among  the  free- 
hearted and  stirring  people  of  the  valley  of 
Petaluma.  I  took  a  ranch  near  the  centre, 
which  consisted  of  a  few  acres  fenced  in,  a 
small  but  comfortable  house,  of  redwood  slabs, 
and  "  all  creation "  back  of  me,  to  the  Pacific 
Ocean,  for  a  grazing  range.  A  friendly  house- 
wife ofiered  to  supply  me  with  milk  ;  different 
farmers  allowed  me  the  free  use  of  their  horses, 
and  thus  I  was  installed  landholder,  house- 
keeper, and  citizen  of  the  town  of  Petaluma. 
I  soon  had  the  pleasure  of  receiving  my  sister 
and  her  family  to  my  home,  which  now  as- 
sumed the  more  dignified  cognomen  of  "  coun- 
try seat,"  in  connection  with,  and  in  distinction 
from,  their  city  residence.  During  the  whole 
warm  season,  it  was  gladdened  by  the  city 
people,  who  took  great  satisfaction  in  the  clear, 
countr}^  air,  and  the  rude  but  healthful  country 
regimen. 

The  chosen  location  for  my  school  was 
Vallejo  township,  not  far  from  my  ranch. 
Father  Waugh,  the  chairman  of  the  committee, 


SCHOOL   EXA^IINATION.  333 

was  an  excellent  and  much-respected  citizen, 
a  pioneer  settler  of  the  region,  having  been 
obliged  to  leave  Missouri,  his  native  state,  on 
account  of  anti-slavery  sentiments. 

The  examination  was  brief,  the  most  diffi- 
cult question  being  "  Do  you  keep  loud  or  still 
school?"  I  had  not  known  the  distinction, 
and,  after  a  moment's  reflection,  answered  at 
hazard,  —  reasoning,  "  a  priori,"  that  the  most 
quiet  school  is  the  best, — that  I  kept  still 
school,  h?j  all  means.  The  demeanor  of  the 
committee  assured  me  I  had  given  the  right 
answer ;  the  certificate  was  granted,  due  no- 
tice given,  and  I  met  my  pupils  in  the  school 
house  —  a  set  of  hearty,  good-natured  boys 
and  girls,  the  majority  of  them  Missourians 
by  birth  or  parentage.  Ignorant  of  their  pre- 
vious discipline  and  present  attainments,  and 
desirous  of  gaining  some  acquaintance  with 
their  ways,  I  simply  announced  that  they 
might  take  their  books  and  proceed  in  the 
usual  manner.  It  was  then  I  learned  the  full 
significance  of  '^  loud  school."  Opening  their 
well-used  books,  every  one,  at  the  full  stretch 
of  their  voices,  began   studying  their  various 


334  PECUNIARY   LOSSES. 

lessons  aloud;  some  standing,  some  sitting, 
others  summoning  assistance  from  the  further 
side  of  the  room,  and  still  others  leaving  the 
house  and  coming  back  at  pleasure.  One  day 
of  such  experience  was  amply  sufficient,  and 
the  second  I  proceeded  to  classify  and  ar- 
range more  according  to  my  mind,  and  speedily 
had  the  satisfaction  of  seeing  my  little  king- 
dom upon  a  footing  more  consistent  with  the 
character  of  a  good  school.  I  succeeded  in 
varying  the  regular  succession  of  ordinary 
school  exercises,  much  to  the  acceptance  of 
the  young  people,  by  a  singing  and  spelling 
school,  which  was  held  in  the  evening,  and 
passed  off  with  great  enthusiasm. 

All  parties  expressed  entire  satisfaction,  and 
I  was  fain  to  console  myself  with  this  glory, 
in  the  loss  of  wealth  which  accrued  to  me  by 
reason  of  the  failure  of  many  of  my  employ- 
ers to  pay  me  my  dues.  They  were  good 
friends ;  unvaryingly  kind  and  hospitable ; 
but  they  were  by  nature  careless,  by  habit 
more  so  in  pecuniary  matters ;  and  in  this 
purely  agricultural  community  of  new  settlers, 
many  of  them  really  had  not  the  money  at 


THE   SLEW.  335 

command.  They  were  ready  to  turn  out  what- 
ever they  had  —  one  man  a  lot  of  hogs ;  one 
a  quantity  of  growing  trees  from  his  nursery ; 
and  another  some  summer  butter  ;  but  beino* 
quite  disindined  to  the  bartering  business,  I 
preferred  to  let  the  balance,  some  hundred  and 
fifty  dollars,  remain  uncollected.  The  trip  I 
made  to  the  school  superintendent's  residence, 
to  obtain  his  authority  in  enabling  me  to 
draw  my  share  of  public  money,  was  very 
characteristic  of  California  life.  He  lived  — 
nobody  knew  exactly  where  —  somewhere  up 
in  the  woods  beyond  Santa  Rosa.  I  could 
scarcely  afford  to  wait  his  uncertain  coming; 
so,  obtaining  a  horse,  I  started  in  pursuit  of 
him.  Coming  within  four  or  five  miles  of 
the  neighborhood  where  I  expected  to  find 
him,  my  path  was  interrupted  by  a  broad 
"  slew "  of  black  mud,  of  uncommonly  sticky 
appearance.  It  must  be  tried;  and  on  we 
went,  and  in  two  jumps  my  gray  horse  was 
saddle  deep,  and  still  sinking.  I  grasped  the 
end  of  the  long  tether,  and  by  a  violent  ef- 
fort, succeeded  in  throwing  myself  upon  firm 
ground,  on  the  further  side.     By  sharp  disci- 


336  VISIT    TO    DR.   B. 

pline  then  extricated  my  horse,  but  in  such 
a  condition  as  to  make  further  riding  out  of 
the  question.  I  therefore  led  him  the  rest 
of  the  way,  and  toward  dusk  arrived  at  the 
residence  of  Dr.  B.  in  a  woeful  plight.  Mrs. 
B.  appeared  at  the  door  of  her  slab  man- 
sion, holding  up  her  hands  in  astonishment, 
and  exclaimed,  "Here,  doctor,  go  get  a  hoe 
and  scrape  this  man  before  he  comes  into 
my  house !  "  Her  obedient  lord  obeyed,  and 
then  brought  me  before  a  vast  fire  of  logs,  in 
an  enormous  chimney  place,  before  which  I 
stood,  turning  round  and  round,  like  a  turkey 
dangling  by  a  string  to  roast,  until  I  was  com- 
pletely dried.  With  due  brushing  and  a  re- 
freshing supper,  I  was  metamorphosed  into  a 
new  man,  spent  the  evening  in  pleasant  con- 
versation, transacted  my  business,  and  next 
day  returned  to  Petaluma  by  a  diiferent  and 
less  muddy  route. 

During  my  term  of  teaching,  which  occu- 
pied some  six  months,  I  made  many  pleasant 
and  valuable  acquaintances;  was  also  able  to 
make  myself  of  some  service  by  rendering 
occasional  assistance  at  the  few  religious  ser- 


CAMP  MEETma.  337 

vices  of  the  neighborhood,  which  were  the 
only  substitute,  in  these  remote  valleys,  for 
the  stated  Sabbath  meetings  of  older  eastern 
communities.  Much  the  most  striking  reli- 
gious solemnity,  however,  at  which  I  was  pres- 
ent, was  the  yearly  camp  meeting  attended 
in  the  woods. 

This  institidion  is  the  natural  and  appropriate 
outgrowth  of  the  weeds  and  peculiarities  of 
the  western  mind.  In  the  Eastern  States, 
w^here  the  regularly  organized  assemblies  for 
worship  are  suf&cient  for  all,  these  forest  gath- 
ings  are  superfluous,  unnatural,  and  out  of 
place,  and  by  necessary  consequence,  almost 
absurd  and  harmful,  being  little  better  than 
occasion  for  riot  and  frivolity. 

In  the  thinly-settled  and  poor  communities 
of  the  new  Western  States,  among  a  people 
who  can  but  rarely  support  settled  ministers, 
and  whose  whole  mental  and  moral  nature  is 
of  a  type,  out  of  all  comparison  more  spon- 
taneous, fervid,  and  sympathetic  than  that  of 
their  deliberate  and  cautious  brethren  at  the 
east,  these  great  gatherings  are  a  true  and 
proper  expression  of  religious  sentiment,  con- 
.—         29 


338  HARMONY    OF   THE   WORSHIPERS. 

sistent,  and  agreeing  with  the  enthusiasm  of 
their  poHtical  mass  meetings,  and  the  thorough- 
going energy  of  their  business  enterprise. 

Every  year,  in  August,  it  is  usual,  in  Sonoma 
county  and  elsewhere,  to  hold  these  general 
jubilees.  Christians  of  all  denominations  meet 
in  some  open  grove,  near  a  stream  of  water, 
and  remain,  according  to  circumstances,  a  few 
days  or  longer.  The  worshipers  gather  some- 
times from  a  circle  a  hundred  miles  in  diame- 
ter, and  remain  in  tents  during  the  continuance 
of  the  meeting.  Denominational  differences  are 
laid  aside,  and  the  entire  proceedings  conducted 
in  the  broadest  and  most  harmonious  spirit  of 
universal  Christianity.  At  the  single  meeting 
I  attended,  I  was  astonished  at  the  depth  and 
evident  truthfulness  of  religious  feeling  which 
was  manifested.  It  was  here  I  witnessed  one 
of  those  impressive  and  extraordinary  spec- 
tacles sometimes  peculiar  to  these  occasions. 
At  the  close  of  a  long  and  fervid  season  of 
prayer,  exhortation,  and  singing,  came  a  short 
pause,  which  was  interrupted  by  a  woman,  who 
stepped  in  front  of  the  desk.  She  was  crip- 
pled and  bent  by  disease,  but  possessed  high 


AN   INTERESTING    SCENE.  339 

and  striking  features,  dark,  expressive  eyes, 
and  every  appearance  of  strong  and  elevated 
character.  In  a  clear,  musical  voice,  and  in 
natural  and  appropriate  words,  she  narrated  to 
the  hushed  and  startled  audience  a  short  story 
of  sufferino:  and  sorrow,  and  described  the  con- 
solation  she  had  found  in  religion  amid  it  all ; 
adding,  that  the  only  thing  remaining  for  her 
to  ask  was,  that  her  only  children,  a  son  and  a 
daughter  of  adult  age,  then  and  there  present, 
might  share  with  her  in  the  hopes  of  Christian- 
ity ;  and  she  called  upon  all  to  join  their  prayers 
with  hers  that  this  crowning  blessing  might  be 
granted  to  a  widow,  and  a  woman  of  many 
sorrows.  Then  kneeling  at  once  upon  the 
place,  she  poured  out  her  soul  in  a  prayer  of 
such  passionate  fervor,  such  beseeching  earnest- 
ness, as  melted  the  hearts  of  all.  It  is  impos- 
sible to  describe  the  emotion  visible  upon  every 
countenance;  but  when  the  two  children,  in 
very  truth,  did  issue  from  the  crowd  and  knelt 
beside  their  aged  mother,  their  eyes  streaming 
with  tears  of  repentance  and  gratitude,  mingled 
together, —  when  it  appeared  that  the  blessing 
had  descended  even  while  they  sought  it, — there 


340  EFFECT    UPON    THOSE    PRESENT. 

■w 

was  an  almost  overwhelming  outburst  of  sym- 
pathetic joy.  Scarcely  a  face  within  the  tent, 
crowded  as  it  was  with  wandering,  toil-hard- 
ened, weather-beaten  men  and  women,  inured 
to  hardship  and  suffering,  but  streamed  with 
tears ;  indeed,  so  strong  was  the  tempest  of 
feeling,  it  was  impossible,  for  some  considerable 
time,  for  either  ministers  or  hearers  to  resume 
the  regular  order  of  exercises.  It  must  be  a 
shallow  soul  —  one-sided,  ignorant,  scant  of  hu- 
man instincts,  and  of  just  thought,  or,  at  least, 
wofully  hampered  with  fetters  of  precedent 
and  habit  —  that  would  refuse  to  recognize 
the  suitableness  and  power  of  such  gatherings, 
especially  in  these  new  places.  Nor  is  it  any 
argument  against  them  that  their  more  grave 
and  impressive  features  are  occasionally  varied 
by  others  even  of  a  ludicrous  character. 

It  was  during  this  same  meeting  I  entered 
one  of  the  tents  in  the  midst  of  an  enthusi- 
astic hymn,  which  was  sung,  as  usual,  by  the 
entire  congregation.  I  took  the  only  vacant 
seat,  which  brought  me  in  close  proximity  to  a 
good  old  colored  woman  of  large  proportions, 
well  known  in  the  vicinity  as  "  Aunt  Peggy." 


AUNT   PEGGY.  341 

She  bore  her  part  in  the  singing  with  all  the 
enthusiasm  of  the  African  character  —  shutting 
her  eyes,  and  rocking  to  and  fro  with  great 
quickness  of  motion.  Opening  her  eyes,  she 
suddenly  caught  a  glimpse  of  me ;  and  with 
a  face  perfectly  radiant  with  joy  and  true 
benevolence,  she  cried  out,  forgetting  every 
thing  except  the  glories  of  heaven,  and  the 
hopes  of  reaching  them  herself,  and  meeting 
her  friends  there,  "Bress  de  Lord,  broder 
Welles,  I  didn't  know  you  was  so  near  me ! 
We'll  go  to  heaven  togeder  —  won't  we  ?  "  and 
therewith  threw  her  arms  about  my  neck  in  a 
most  fervent  embrace.  The  dismay  and  staring 
confusion  of  certain  young  ministers  who  were 
present,  and,  like  him  of  Petaluma,  fresh  from 
an  eastern  theological  seminar}^,  may  be  im- 
agined. They  sat  in  silent  amazement,  unable 
to  speak  or  sing.  They  had  intended  to  assist 
in  the  exercises  of  the  meeting,  but  had  no 
power  to  do  it,  even  in  spirit.  One  of  them, 
meeting  me  at  the  close  of  the  evening,  whis- 
pered cautiously  in  my  ear,  '^  I  don't  understand 
this,  brother  Welles ;  I  never  saw  any  thing  of 
this  kind  before.     I  don't  know  what  to  make 

29* 


342  REFLECTIONS. 

of  it.  You  think  it  all  correct  and  expedient 
—  do  you?"  I  comforted  the  good  man  as  well 
as  I  could ;  but  nothing  short  of  a  thorough 
putting  off  of  all  his  preconceived  opinions 
about  forms  and  observances,  and  an  assimila- 
tion  to  these  new  ways  of  thinking  and  acting, 
can  reconcile  him  to  the  scenes  of  a  California 
camp  meeting ;  and  such  a  change  is  not  the 
work  of  a  day,  especially  for  the  graduate  of 
an  eastern  seminary.  In  proportion  to  one's 
adaptation  to  circumstances  is  his  power  to 
enjoy  a  new  country,  with  its  customs  and 
manners  more  or  less  strange,  and  his  ability 
to  do  good.  My  quota  of  enjoyment  has  been 
realized  in  this  delightful  portion  of  the  world. 
In  after  years  memory  will  revert  to  these 
scenes  with  peculiar  pleasure.  I  go  now  to 
my  native  land,  to  the  scenes  of  my  early 
youth,  the  friends  I  love  ;  and  if  life  is  spared 
to  recount  to  them  the  adventures  of  my  re- 
cent history,  I  shall  have  occasion  to  say  on 
every  hand, — 

"  Thus  far  the  Lord  hath  led  me  oru" 


CHAPTER    XYI. 

VOYAGE  HOME.  —  ATTEMPT  AT  SUICIDE.  —  NATURAL 
FEATURES  OF  CALIFORNIA.  —  REFLECTIONS  UPON  MEN 
AND  MANNERS.  —  SUPERIORITY  OF  AMERICAN  CHAR- 
ACTER. 

My  residence  in  Petaluma  might  have  lasted 
a  lifetime,  perhaps,  had  not  a  combination  of 
circumstances  rendered  it  seemingly  necessary 
for  me  to  return  to  New  England.  My  voyage 
across  the  Isthmus  was  without  any  special 
interest,  unless  it  was  an  attempt  at  suicide 
which  was  made  as  we  were  entering  Panama 
Bay.  It  was  a  young  girl,  disappointed,  and 
for  the  time  nearly  crazed,  by  not  meeting 
friends  whom  she  had  expected  on  her  way. 
She  jumped  overboard  from  the  steamer,  in- 
tending to  escape  from  such  a  troublesome 
world  by  drowning.  The  sea  water,  and  the 
tremendous  idea  of  death  which  came  from 
the  sense  of  its  absolute  nearness,  worked  an 

(343) 


344  RETURN   HOME. 

instantaneous  revulsion  in  her  feelings,  and 
she  implored  them  to  rescue  her.  Being  float- 
ed by  means  of  her  dress,  the  boat  of  the 
steamer  was  sent  out,  and  she  was  brought  on 
board  mortified,  and  apparently  satisfied  to 
live  as  long  as  she  could.  A  fair  opportunity 
to  see  how  it  would  seem  would  probably  pre- 
vent a  vast  majority  from  prosecuting  their 
suicidal  folly. 

I  reached  my  native  land  after  about  three 
years  of  absence,  most  of  it  consumed  in  the 
wanderings  of  the  desultory  circumnavigation, 
the  adventures  of  which  I  have  related,  not  with 
any  particular  ecstasies  of  patriotism  or  joy, 
but,  as  in  regard  to  most  other  human  events, 
with  mingled  emotions  of  pain  and  pleasure.  A 
large  portion  of  my  time  was  spent  in  Califor- 
nia, and  therefore  impressions  of  life  in  this 
place  are  more  vivid  and  distinct  than  those 
of  any  other.  California  is,  indeed,  a  splendid 
country  to  live  in.  Its  atmosphere,  not  only 
natural,  but  social  and  mental,  has  a  strangely 
invigorating  and  pleasing  effect  upon  those  is- 
suing from  the  comparatively  conventional  and 
humdrum  life  of  the  old  states  at  the  east. 


THE   VIGILANCE    COmilTTEE.  345 

There  is  a  free,  truthful,  and  sincere  activity, 
strength,  and  decision,  in  the  society  exceed- 
ingly attractive  to  most  minds.  Both  men 
and  women  are  deeply  interested  in  whatever 
relates  to  the  welfare  and  prosperity  of  the 
Pacific  state.  The  Vigilance  Committee,  and 
various  other  organizations  of  the  kind  out- 
side San  Francisco,  are  to  be  reckoned  not 
lawless  or  rebellious,  but  simply  as  spontaneous 
combinations  for  suppressing  wrong  and  up- 
holding the  purity  of  the  republic  —  such  as 
would  be  impossible  in  an  eastern  state  or 
city,  solely  for  the  lack  of  the  requisite  union 
of  honesty  and  vigor  in  political  and  moral 
character. 

The  broad,  clear  vigor  of  mind  shown  so 
early  in  the  existence  of  the  state  is  to  be  ac- 
counted for  partly  in  the  natural  action  of  strong 
and  rio'ht-minded  men,  thrown  together  under 
circumstances  which  render  them  at  once  inde- 
pendent in  courses  of  individual  life,  thought, 
and  action ;  and  singularly  inter-dependent  in 
all  the  purposes  of  action  as  a  united  people. 

Another  cause,  perhaps  hardly  less  efficient, 
is  the  stimulating  power  of  this  region.     There 


346  A   ROVING   SCOTCHMAN. 

is  a  strange  and  peculiar  exliilaration  in  the 
very  air  of  California,  which  belongs  also  to 
the  whole  vast  range  of  the  Pacific  basin. 
Many  seem  equally  content  to  settle  or  to 
roam  about  the  lands  or  the  waters  of  this 
enchanted  realm. 

A  story  was  told  me  of  a  wealthy  young 
Scotchman,  —  a  baronet  it  w^as  said,  —  w^ho 
owned  a  swift  and  beautiful  schooner,  and  con- 
stantly lived  in  her  —  the  life,  as  it  were,  of  a 
proud  sea-king.  His  little  craft  now  and  then 
entered  the  harbor  of  San  Francisco,  or  was 
heard  of  at  Honolulu,  or  some  other  distant 
port,  having  put  in  for  supplies.  At  other 
times  he  was  cruising  to  and  fro,  or  delaying 
at  his  pleasure  at  some  beautiful  island  harbor, 
enjoying  the  delights  of  sun  and  air,  earth  and 
ocean,  in  the  paradise  of  the  South  Pacific  —  as 
nearly  a  perfect  life  as  the  w^orld  can  furnish 
for  phj^sical  pleasure. 

I  have  known  more  than  one  instance  where 
emigrants  from  the  east  have  resided  for  a 
while  in  California,  grown  homesick,  and  re- 
turned only  to  find  themselves,  after  a  short 
stay,  pining  still  more  strongly  for  the  balmy 


CLIMATE   OF   CALIFORNIA.  347 

air  and  magnificent  climate,  the  fruit  and  flow- 
ers they  had  left^  than  for  the  old  associations, 
conveniences;  and  privileges  of  their  eastern 
home. 

There  is  no  winter  except  a  rainy  season, 
which  lasts  from  October  to  April,  during  which 
frost  is  unknown.  The  temperature  of  the  first 
January  of  my  stay  ranged  from  fifty  to  sev- 
enty degrees  ;  scarcely  a  day  when  one  might 
not  take  a  pleasant  and  healthful  walk  in  the 
open  air. 

The  climate  is  without  either  extreme ;  be- 
ing no  frost  in  winter  or  dog-days  in  summer. 
There  is  always  a  sea  breeze  at  night  along 
the  coast,  and  an  occasional  morning  fog  is  dis- 
persed by  the  sun  at  about  ten  o'clock,  A.  M., 
in  season  for  a  day  warm,  but  not  oppressive. 
The  harsh,  dry  heat,  the  raw  Atlantic  fogs,  the 
piercing  cold  of  north-east  storms,  are  un- 
known. It  is  doubtless  the  healthiest  country 
in  the  world. 

Farming  and  gardening  are  a  wonder  to  the 
eastern  man,  with  his  lono;  winter,  hot  and 
hurrying  summer,  hard  and  meager  soil,  and  his 
severe  labor.     No  stores  of  winter  fodder  are 


o 


48  UNP.\JIALELED    VEGETATION. 


needed ;  there  is  not  one  day  in  the  year  when 
he  cannot  work  in  the  ground.  One  Bodega 
potato  has  been  know^n  to  suthce  two  or  three 
men  at  dinner.  Grains  of  different  kinds  more 
than  double  the  Atlantic  crops.  Fruit  is  yield- 
ed from  seed  or  cuttings  a  full  year  sooner 
than  at  the  east.  Fresh  vegetables  and  fruit 
are  in  the  market  at  San  Francisco  every 
month  in  the  year;  and  to  the  whole  circle  of 
productions  of  the  Northern  States  are  added 
many  more  of  almost  tropical  character.  Figs 
grow  and  prosper  in  the  open  air,  and  the  nut- 
meg is  a  native  production  of  one  portion  of 
the  state.  In  favorable  exposures  there  is 
little  doubt  that  a  large  class  of  the  distinctive 
tropical  fruits  could  be  produced  with  slight 
protection,  if  not  actually  naturalized. 

Petaluma  and  its  neigrhborhood,  where  I 
spent  a  greater  part  of  my  time,  is  a  very 
paradise  for  the  farmer.  Almost  the  whole  of 
Sonoma  county,  which  is  as  large  a.s  the  entire 
State  of  Connecticut,  lies  in  a  broad  and  fertile 
valley  of  rich  meadows  and  grassy  uplands,  a 
hundred  and  fifty  miles  in  length,  and  from  forty 
to  eighty  broad,  whose  natural  riches  and  capa- 


MINERAL   WEALTH.  349 

bilities  are  but  little  known  even  in  San  Fran- 
cisco. Many  of  the  farmers  entered  this  region 
ten  years  since,  purchased  land  of  the  Spanish 
proprietors,  and  entered  at  once  upon  the 
business  of  cattle  raising,  killing  them  chiefly 
for  the  hides,  at  a  profit  perhaps  of  two  dollars 
a  head.  The  gold  discoveries,  and  the  cities 
that  have  consequently  grown  up  around  them, 
have  put  a  stop  to  these  wasteful  operations, 
and  many  large  fortunes  have  been  made  by 
the  sale  of  meat  and  produce  to  the  mountain 
miners  and  city  markets.  These  opportuni- 
ties for  certain  and  regular  profits  from  agri- 
culture increase  every  year  with  the  grow^th 
of  city  and  country. 

With  these  advantages,  and  the  valuable 
resources  of  gold,  quicksilver,  and  other  metals 
and  minerals  ;  with  a  population  already  nu- 
merous and  ever'  increasing,  and  a  territory 
capable  of  supporting  twenty  millions,  at  the 
rate  of  population  per  square  mile  of  the  State 
of  New  York;  and  with  the  present  prospects 
for  moral  and  intellectual  improvement  from 
the  educational,  benevolent,  and  religious  in- 
fluences  and    institutions   already   established 

30 


350  FBUITS    OF   MY   TRAVELS. 

and  operating,  —  it  is  impossible  to  limit  the 
splendor  of  the  future  for  California. 

The  chief  inquiries  that  have  been  pro- 
pounded to  me  by  those  to  whom  I  have  re- 
hearsed the  reminiscences  of  my  travels,  are 
such  as  these  :  "  What  were  you  driving  at  ? 
What  were  you  trying  to  do?  What  is  the 
result  of  it  all  ? "  In  the  first  place,  at  the 
point  of  departure,  I  was  a  discouraged  man, 
unhappy  in  mind,  weak  in  body,  and  not  with- 
out symptoms  of  pulmonary  disease.  With  a 
substantially  rebuilt  constitution,  it  has  given 
me  contentment  and  an  equability  of  mind 
altogether  above  valuation.  It  is  true  I  can 
not  lay  down  any  plan  upon  which  I  pro- 
ceeded, covering  the  entire  time  and  space  of 
my  travels.  I  did  not  go  with  a  settled  pur- 
pose of  obtaining  information,  nor  gold,  nor 
"  specimens,"  nor  after  any  thing  else  that  I 
could  tell,  although  I  returned  wdth  more  or 
less  of  all  these.  I  could  boast  a  collection  of 
shells  numbering  five  thousand  or  more,  and 
of  no  small  value  for  scientific  purposes ;  a 
good,  though  less  extensive  collection  of  min- 
erals, including    gold   and  silver  ore,   agates, 


VALUE    OF   TRAVEL.  351 

cornelians,  bloodstones,  pearls,  and  many  mis- 
cellaneous curiosities ;  beside  an  inexhaustible 
store  of  recollections  of  persons,  places,  and 
tliino-s :  of  manners  and  customs:  observations 
upon  human  nature,  which  are  continually  do- 
ino*  good  service  by  furnishing  material  for 
comparison  and  reflection. 

In  spite  of  the  lack  of  any  abstract  unity  of 
purpose,  or  any  elaborate  plan,  —  even  though 
I  can  only  say  that  an  instinct  for  wander- 
ing carried  me  along, —  I  apprehend  most  men 
will  count  these  three  years  as  far  from  mis- 
spent. In  what  other  way  the  fruits  of  travel 
can  be  gained  I  have  yet  to  learn ;  and  I  am 
further  ignorant  of  any  experience  so  rich  and 
available  as  sources  of  knowledge  of  men  and 
minds.  During  the  latter  part  of  my  stay 
abroad,  and  since  my  return  home,  I  have  met 
with  some  few  of  the  various  companions  of 
my  wanderings;  and  the  intelligence  I  have 
been  able  to  gather  respecting  the  unlucky 
Peytona  may  not  be  uninteresting  to  those 
who  have  followed  her  through  a  disastrous, 
shifting,  and  "  shiftless"  voyage.  She  was  con- 
demned and   sold   at  Port  Louis,  on  account 


352  THE   PEYTONA. 

of  her  passengers  remaining  there  ;  bringing 
about  nine  thousand  dollars,  which  gave  to 
each  person  about  fifty  dollars  to  enable  them 
to  leave  the  island.  The  price  was  given  for 
the  beauty  of  her  model,  which  was  one  of 
the  first  and  best  of  Donald  M'Kay's  long  line 
of  triumphs  in  clipper  ship  building,  rather 
than  for  any  great  value  in  her  strained  and 
weather-beaten  hulk.  She  was  thoroughly  re- 
built, christened  again  by  a  name  I  do  not 
know,  and  is  probably  at  this  moment  plying 
about  the  Indian  Ocean,  or  China  Sea,  laden 
with  sugar  or  opium,  swarming  with  centi- 
pedes and  scorpions,  and  manned  by  rice- 
eating,  inefficient  Lascars.  What  became  of 
the  captain,  his  swearing  mate,  and  mutinous 
crew,  I  know  not.  The  fortunes  and  mis- 
fortunes of  the  hapless  company  would  doubt- 
less be  a  curious  chapter  in  the  history  of 
human  afiairs,  were  they  known. 

Advice  which  I  can  give  to  travelers  is  of 
trifling  moment,  and  can  of  course  be  applied 
only  to  those  whose  journeyings  are  similar  to 
my  own.  Seasickness  —  that  frightful  thing, 
concerning  which  so  many  speculate,  and  which 


HINTS   TO   TRAVELERS.  353 

many  know  by  a  meaning  deeper  than  specu- 
lation—  is  one  of  those  things  to  be  considered 
on  a  long  voyage.     My  belief  is,  that  no  pre- 
caution  whatever   can   be  relied   upon;   that 
some  persons  will  never  feel  it;  that  some  may 
escape  it,  by  attention  to  diet  before  embark- 
ing ;  by  being  much  in  the  open  air,  or  pre- 
serving a   horizontal   position  on  board;  and 
that   others  will   have   it   under  any  circum- 
stances whatever.     Persons  of  a  sanguine  and 
nervous  temperament  are  most   subject  to  it. 
The    resolute   maintenance   of    good   temper, 
cheerful   endurance  of  whatever  befalls,  and 
above  all,  a  continual  endeavor  to  be  helpful 
and  encouraging  to  others,  are  points  of  cardi- 
nal importance  to  the  traveler;  for  the  mmd 
occupied  in  alleviating  the  miseries  of  others 
is  certain  to  forget   its   own.     By  practicing 
some   such   hints,   with   others   suggested   by 
wiser  travelers,  and  such  as  every  one's  own 
foresight  or  experience  may  dictate,   the  va- 
rious   difficulties    and    hardships    incident   to 
"second-class"  style  of  traveling,  which  neces- 
sity  compelled  me   to  adopt,  may  be   much 
lightened.    Yet,  after  all,  this  mode    cannot 

30* 


354  THE   EFFECTS    OF   TRAVELING. 

be  recommended,  if  by  any  possible  means  it 
can  be  avoided,  as  its  influence  upon  charac- 
ter is  far  from  being  desirable.  One  is  thus 
thrown,  usually,  among  the  vulgar  and  igno- 
rant, where  he  must  absolutely  practice  a 
sharp  system  of  self-defending  circumspection, 
and  assertion  of  his  own  rights,  nearly  border- 
ing upon  selfishness  and  dishonesty ;  and  very 
naturally  slides  into  the  opinion  that  whatever 
wrong  doing  he  is  tempted  to  commit,  will 
remain  unknown  to  the  circle  of  his  friends 
and  home  neighbors,  among  whom  his  repu- 
tation chiefly  exists.  The  steady  operation  of 
these  influences,  so  dilapidating  to  the  strength 
and  perfection  of  the  moral  sense,  is  hardly 
ever  counteracted,  even  for  a  little  time,  by 
the  society  of  the  good. 

The  decided  tendency  of  traveling  any  way, 
is  to  develop  into  a  master-passion  the  innate 
disposition  in  the  human  mind  to  lead  a  rest- 
less, roving  life.  Too  many  of  the  great  army 
of  men  who  have  left  the  United  States  within 
the  past  few  years,  have  either  become  ir- 
reclaimable wanderers,  or  returned  to  their 
homes  discontented,  unhappy,  aimless  and  use- 


CURIOSITY.  355 

less.  In  that  large  class  who  are  driven  away 
from  home,  or  fancy  they  are,  by  domestic  or 
other  troubles,  w^e  find  these  effects  very  nat- 
urally intensified.  Thus  the  man  who  left 
home  a  very  respectable  member  of  society, 
with  good  intentions  and  habits,  a  perception 
of  right  and  wTong,  a  sense  of  obligation  to 
God  and  man,  and  in  the  habitual  practice  of 
some  effort  at  improvement  of  mind  and  soul, 
often  becomes,  if  nothing  worse,  improvident, 
reckless,  careless  of  every  thing  except  the 
comfort  and  pleasure  of  the  present  day,  sink- 
ing in  every  respect  far  below  the  dignity  of 
his  nature.  My  own  countrymen  I  invaria- 
bly found  to  be  superior,  in  most  respects,  to 
those  of  other  countries  and  nations. 

Their  most  unseemly  trait  is  inquisitiveness, 
which  they  gratify  without  regard  to  things 
divine  or  human,  in  a  manner  often  insufferably 
impertinent.  Curiosity  is  no  less  apparent. 
This  characteristic  shone  forth  with  wonderful 
power  during  our  stay  at  Bahia,  where  our 
fellow-passengers  visited  every  church,  han- 
dling pictures,  images,  and  every  thing  within 
reach.     Many  a  dark  stain  was  left  upon  w^hite 


356  PECULIAR   TRAITS. 

marble  statues,  gilded  picture  frames,  and  other 
ornamental  fixtures,  all  over  the  city,  to  attest 
the  rigid  investigation  of  these  peering  visitors. 
When  they  had  seen  the  building,  they  apphed 
themselves  to  the  worshipers.  I  have  seen 
devotees  kneeling  before  an  image,  praying 
with  the  absorbing  fervor  of  a  sincere  Eoman- 
ist,  apparently  unconscious  that  they  were 
quite  surrounded  by  the  curious  faces  of  a 
dozen  strangers,  watching  to  see  ^^how  they 
did  it.'' 

Many  more  were  those  who  wrote  or  carved 
their  names,  with  dates  or  strange  devices,  in 
all  manner  of  places  —  a  custom  of  erect- 
ing monuments  to  one's  self,  which,  however, 
is  no  more  common  among  Americans,  who 
have  no  other  way  of  becoming  celebrated, 
than  among  cockneys,  or  any  other  class  of 
wanderers. 

These  demonstrations  were  a  cause  of  won- 
derino;  diso^ust  to  the  inhabitants,  who  will  not 
even  mind  their  own  business,  if  they  can  help 
it,  much  less  any  body's  else.  Their  quiet, 
listless  ways  were  a  constant  surprise  to  us. 
Nobody  gazed  at  us  in  the  churches  or  in  the 


K'r 


SUPERIORITY    OF   AMERICANS.  35 

streets.  Under  circumstances  that  would  have 
drawn  the  attention  of  every  eye  in  a  New- 
England  church,  we  might  have  entered  a 
Romish  cathedral  without  receiving  even  a 
look  from  the  listless  or  earnest  devotees. 

Having  said  this,  the  worst  is  said.  In  all 
other  respects  whatever,  Americans  abroad  are 
beyond  measure  superior  to  all  other  nations 
in  morahty,  good  manners,  good  nature,  good 
companionship,  friendliness,  and  generosity; 
this,  however,  not  urged  in  competition  with 
the  remarkable,  thorough-going,  and  almost 
universal  display  of  the  last  three  qualities 
amono;  Eno;lish  seamen.  In  business,  shrewd- 
ness,  energy,  tact,  invention,  and  success,  they 
far  exceed  all  others.  AU  improvements  at 
Ballerat  in  the  process  of  mining  had  been 
made  by  Yankees,  and  the  same  may  be  said 
in  other  directions. 

One,  however,  prosecuting  any  enterprise,  is 
obliged  to  encounter  the  whole  strength  of  a 
bitter  and  ignorant  national  dislike,  by  reason 
of  much  prejudice  against  foreigners,  which  is 
more  or  less  strong  in  all  places. 

The  homely  rhymes  of  the  poet  will  finally 


358  REFLECTIONS. 

serve  to  express  a  yet  more  comprehensive 
summary  of  my  experiences  :  — 

"  This  world  is  not  so  bad  a  world 

As  some  would  choose  to  make  it ;  * 

But  whether  good  or  whether  bad, 
Depends  on  how  you  take  it." 

There  is  good  in  the  world,  and  about  almost 
every  body  in  the  world  ;  and  he  who  looks  out 
keenly  and  good  naturedly,  not  only  for  him- 
self, but  for  others,  will  be  sure  to  succeed. 

He  will,  in  a  certain  sense,  be  a  friend  of 
"  God  and  Mammon"  —  two  effective  allies ;  for 
men  help  him  who  helps  them^  and  "  God  helps 
him  who  helps  himself.'* 


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